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The Sopranos: “Acting Boss” Silvio in Silver Flecked Silk

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Steven Van Zandt as Silvio Dante on The Sopranos (Episode 6.03: "Mayham")

Steven Van Zandt as Silvio Dante on The Sopranos (Episode 6.03: “Mayham”)

Vitals

Steven Van Zandt as Silvio Dante, Jersey mob consigliere and “acting boss”

New Jersey, Spring 2006

Series: The Sopranos
Episode: “Mayham” (Episode 6.03)
Air Date: March 26, 2006
Director: Jack Bender
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

Background

Happy birthday, Steven Van Zandt!

While The Sopranos introduced him to new audiences after the show’s premiere in 1999, “Little Steven” had been a longtime guitarist with Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band. Van Zandt first toured with the Boss in the 1970s before embarking on his own successful solo career and launching a series of ventures where he could share his encyclopedic knowledge of rock and pop music as a radio host, Sirius program director, label producer, and more! Miami Steve had never formally acted before taking the role of Silvio Dante on The Sopranos, and the cool-headed (but cold-hearted) consigliere quickly rose to become a fan favorite, known for his bouffant and his bold, idiosyncratic fashion sense that wasn’t unlike the man portraying him.

After five seasons behind the scenes of the show’s fictional DiMeo crime family, Silvio received his moment in the spotlight after mob boss Tony Soprano (James Gandolfini) was comatose from a shooting incident at the start of the sixth season. The loyal Silvio was tapped to serve as the family’s “acting boss” until Tony’s recovery… no doubt to the delight of Stevie’s fans in the music world where he had first rose to fame working with a different kind of Boss.

“I never saw myself as that kinda guy,” Silvio explains to his wife Gabriella (Maureen Van Zandt, Steven’s real-life wife), regarding the opportunity. “I’m more behind the scenes… advice, strategy.” Despite Silvio’s reluctance, he does share that he had reportedly been a contender to fill Jackie Aprile’s shoes when that fellow well-coiffed mobster died of cancer years earlier, creating a brief leadership vacancy that Silvio had considered taking.

Of course, we see that sometimes the most talented employees aren’t always management material, and the stress of Silvio’s new job triggers an asthma attack that lands him in the same hospital as his recuperating boss.

What’d He Wear?

Let’s start at the beginning of Silvio Dante’s day, when Benny Fazio (Max Casella) comes to pick up the new acting boss as he’s having his breakfast of Kashi and coffee, dressed in the lush loungewear of a black-and-gold cross-streaked silk robe with solid black satin shawl collar, cuffs, and pocket piping. Between the lapels of the robe, we see that Sil wears as much gold jewelry as his boss, if not moreso as he has doubled up on the number of gold necklaces with both a gold cross and a gold pendant—likely with the likeness of a Catholic saint—that hangs slightly lower over his chest.

Sil begins his big day with the most important meal.

Sil begins his big day with the most important meal.

From there, we go upstairs and get a much-needed glimpse into Silvio Dante’s massive, colorful wardrobe as he picks out the suit that will guide him through his first day as acting boss. Series costume designer Juliet Polcsa had explained to The Independent in 2014 that “Stevie Van Zandt felt some of his character’s sartorial choices should be influenced by the way De Niro dressed in the film Casino,” and that flashy old Vegas sense of sartorialism clearly drives his outfit in this scene.

We’re treated to some delightful scenes of Silvio and his wife Gabriella “Gab” Dante—made all the more fun by the knowledge that they’re portrayed by real-life married couple Steven and Maureen Van Zandt—as she tenderly helps him get ready for his first day “on the job”, towing the line between a sweet, supportive partner and a more influential Lady Macbeth who admires his “strength in crisis” and reminds him that he wouldn’t sneeze at the opportunity to sit in “the big seat” on a more permanent basis.

"The times make the man, honey. Not the other way around," advises Gab.

“The times make the man, honey. Not the other way around,” advises Gab.

First day at a new job? Sure, a gray suit is always a good idea- oh, I see where you’re going with this one, Silvio.

As a flashy mobster, Silvio eschews the gray worsteds or flannels that you or I may select to make a good impression on our first day at a new job, instead sporting a slick shark gray two-piece suit in a nubby black-streaked and white-flecked suiting suggesting dupioni silk, the “luxurious shantung-type silk fabric made from a double silk fiber from two cocoons nested together,” as described by Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man. “Mayham” isn’t the only appearance of this particular suit, which Silvio also effectively wears with the jacket orphaned in other episodes.

The single-breasted jacket has wide, razor-sharp peak lapels that roll to a single button, covered in the same silk cloth as the rest of the suit. The wide shoulders are padded to build Silvio’s intimidating silhouette, though the shoulders threaten to swallow his neck when Silvio burrows his head in the midst of his trademark scowl. In the jacket’s welted breast pocket, Silvio wears a burgundy silk pocket square that effectively coordinates with his colorfully abstract tie without matching it.

THE SOPRANOS

Silvio’s suit jacket has four functioning buttons on each cuff, also covered in the same silk cloth as the single button on the front. The jacket is split with long double vents, and the straight hip pockets are each covered with a flap.

Sil arbitrates a situation among his capos Bobby and Vito in the hospital break room.

Sil arbitrates a situation among his capos Bobby and Vito in the hospital break room.

Sil’s matching suit trousers have a single forward pleat on each side of the fly and wide belt loops around the waist, though he opts to wear suspenders (braces) that fasten to buttons along the inside of the waist instead. Finished with turn-ups (cuffs), these trousers have slightly slanted side pockets and slim-welted back pockets.

Gabriella helps Silvio get ready in the morning.

Gabriella helps Silvio get ready in the morning.

The suspenders are a dark brown twill fabric, possibly silk as suggested by the sheen, with a crossed pattern in scarlet red. Silvio’s suspenders have gold adjusters on the front with a dark brown leather back patch and matching dark brown leather ears that attach to three double sets of buttons.

THE SOPRANOS

Although the material of the suit makes it flashy, gray is still a relatively conservative color for Silvio, so the mobster adds characteristic color with an unorthodox coral-colored shirt with a slightly iridescent shine that suggests silk or a high-twist cotton.

As this is hardly a standard color for men’s dress shirts, gents hoping to tap into their inner Silvio Dante will likely either have to have their shirt made-to-order or made-to-measure or, on the opposing end of the quality spectrum, gamble with an off-the-rack alternative like this inexpensive Berlioni “convertible cuff” shirt made from a polyester/cotton blend. Despite the Italian brand name, the shirt’s material and the controversial convertible cuffs would likely disqualify it from a place in Silvio’s closet.

Silvio’s shirt has a spread collar, breast pocket, and a plain front that buttons up with white pearlesque plastic buttons.

Silvio stands among his enviably varied closet.

Silvio stands among his enviably varied closet.

As Silvio prepares for his day, Gabriella lovingly adorns his shirt’s double (French) cuffs with a set of gold oval links, filled with red stones each accented with a diamond in the center.

And then there’s Silvio’s tie… To describe the pattern, one’s tempted to use the words “zebra-striped,” though I don’t believe there’s any naturally occurring zebra in the wild with a multi-colored coat like Silvio Dante’s bold neckwear. The black wavy stripes overlay the tie’s gradient-striped ground that fades from ivory to orange to red to burgundy, repeating and alternating its stripe under a chaotic field of black zebra stripes.

Sil embraces the private solitude of the men's bathroom.

Sil embraces the private solitude of the men’s bathroom.

A discreetly photographed aerial shot when Silvio ducks into a bathroom stall with his coffee and newspaper reveals his black polka-dotted boxer shorts, though director of photography Phil Abraham thankfully keeps the camera from further invading Mr. Dante’s privacy.

While Sil’s the stall, we get a glimpse of all that his colleagues can see of him during their impromptu conference, the apron-toe fronts of his black leather loafers.

THE SOPRANOS

Mobsters may choose to present themselves in garish silks and pastels like Silvio Dante, dressed-down track suits like “Paulie Walnuts” and Christopher Moltisanti, or more subdued sport jackets and slacks like Tony Soprano and Johnny Sack, but one constant staple across all degrees of la cosa nostra dress code seems to be an abundance of jewelry, preferably yellow gold.

Given that his left wrist is occupied by his watch, Silvio dresses his right wrist with a flat gold herringbone bracelet, a slimmer and sleeker alternative to the chain-link bracelets favored by his criminal colleagues.

THE SOPRANOS

Silvio wears two rings—both gold, of course—though neither seems to be a wedding band. On the third finger of his right hand, Sil wears a large gold ring with a square-cut diamond. On the opposing hand, Silvio wears a slimmer-framed cross ring on his pinky.

One of many cups of coffee fueling Silvio's day as boss.

One of many cups of coffee fueling Silvio’s day as boss.

In the fourth season of The Sopranos, Silvio stopped wearing the all-gold watch with the diamond-crusted bezel that he had worn for the first three seasons and replaced it with a black-and-gold watch consisting of a black case with a black dial and black bezel with gold number markers and a gold crown. The watch is secured to Sil’s left wrist on a gold mesh bracelet and can be clearly seen during a, uh, pivotal scene in the series’ penultimate episode, “The Blue Comet” (Episode 6.20).

How to Get the Look

Steven Van Zandt as Silvio Dante on The Sopranos (Episode 6.03: "Mayham")

Steven Van Zandt as Silvio Dante on The Sopranos (Episode 6.03: “Mayham”)

Che palle! Silvio Dante’s style was unparalleled on The Sopranos, and he takes the opportunity upon reaching his highest on-screen rank to blend a more businesslike approach to his usual brash and colorful attire… though Sil’s idea of a gray suit for a day at the office differs from what the rest of us may consider appropriate. Then again, few of us are mobsters.

  • Shark gray streaked dupioni silk suit (with self-covered buttons):
    • Single-breasted 1-button jacket with wide peak lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, functional 4-button “surgeon’s cuffs”, and long double vents
    • Single forward-pleated trousers with wide belt loops, inside-waistband suspenders buttons, slightly slanted side pockets, slim-welted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Coral silk shirt with spread collar, plain front, breast pocket, and squared double/French cuffs
  • Zebra-striped tie on an ivory, orange, and burgundy gradient-faded ground
  • Dark brown silk twill suspenders with red cross-pattern motif, gold adjusters, and dark brown leather back patch and attachment ears
  • Black leather apron-toe loafers
  • Black polka-dot boxer shorts
  • Gold necklace with cross
  • Gold necklace with round saint pendant
  • Gold flat herringbone bracelet
  • Gold ring with square-cut diamond, right ring finger
  • Gold cross pinky ring, left hand
  • Black wristwatch with black rotating bezel (with gold number markers) and black dial on gold mesh bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the entire series.

“What, you speakin’ Norwegian?” is Silvio’s comeback during an attempt at conflict resolution between Bobby Bacala and Vito Spatafore, perhaps foreshadowing Van Zandt’s eventual show Lillyhammer. This entertaining fish-out-of-water comedy series was touted as “the first time Netflix offered exclusive content,” premiering in North America exclusively on Netflix in February 2012, a full year before the streaming service premiered its first original series, House of Cards.

For fans of Silvio, The Sopranos, and Little Steven, I highly recommend checking out Lilyhammer, in which Van Zandt stars as a mobster very similar to Silvio Dante that becomes a Mafia target and enters the federal witness protection program, through which he is transferred to Lillehammer, Norway.

The Quote

You know me… all I ever wanted was to carve out a little piece.


Brad Pitt in Black as Benjamin Button

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Brad Pitt as Benjamin Button in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button (2008)

Brad Pitt as Benjamin Button in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button (2008)

Vitals

Brad Pitt as Benjamin Button, reverse-aging adventurer

Paris, Spring 1954

Film: The Curious Case of Benjamin Button
Release Date: December 25, 2008
Director: David Fincher
Costume Designer: Jacqueline West

Background

As holiday shoppers are lining up (or logging in) on Black Friday this year, let’s take a look at a creative approach to wearing black as sported by Brad Pitt in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button.

Benjamin looks just a little too dashing as he arrives at a Parisian hospital to visit the childhood friend he has grown to love, Daisy Fuller (Cate Blanchett), who is convalescing from a car accident that crushed her leg and thus ruined her dancing career.

Marlon Brando, photographed by Virgil Apger, September 17, 1952.

Marlon Brando, photographed by Virgil Apger, September 17, 1952.

What’d He Wear?

The first thing that Daisy notices when Benjamin visits her is just how much younger he looks since the last time their paths had crossed, and the difference really is notable thanks to Greg Cannom’s Academy Award-winning makeup and the Oscar-winning visual effects team of Eric Barba, Steve Preeg, Burt Dalton, and Craig Barron, though sartorial enthusiasts may have been more drawn to Benjamin’s slick attire of a dark suit and polo shirt accented by a brown leather belt and brogues.

Costume designer Jacqueline West received a deserved Academy Award nomination for her work in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, which she told Variety in 2008 was inspired by popular actors across the decades of Benjamin’s life, from Gary Cooper in the 1940s to Steve McQueen in the 1960s, paying particular homage to the latter’s famous casual style with pieces like his navy shawl-collar cardigan, brown leather flight jacket, and tan Baracuta G9 “Harrington jacket”.

Diahann Carroll and Paul Newman in Paris Blues (1961)

Diahann Carroll and Paul Newman in Paris Blues (1961)

Ms. West also suggested Marlon Brando as her muse for Benjamin’s style during the 1950s, and there’s a photo taken by Virgil Apger of the then 28-year-old actor in a dark striped suit, dark polo, and lighter-colored belt and brogues that had to be a direct inspiration for this outfit. Brando even wears a pair of lighter-colored socks that clearly contrast with the rest of his dark outfit, as Benjamin does.

While Ms. West didn’t mention it to Variety as a direct inspiration, Paul Newman’s wardrobe in Paris Blues (1961) shares undeniable similarities with Benjamin Button’s attire for his visit to the hospital, right down to the camel coat that Newman occasionally wears over his dark flannel suit and charcoal knit polo as jazz musician Ram Bowen.

You can read more about Newman’s style in Paris Blues at Style in Film and, I’m sure, my own eventual post about it!

Given the timing of this post on Black Friday, lets’ start by looking at the only piece of Benjamin’s wardrobe that’s actually black: his black polo shirt that appears to be knit in a soft material like cashmere or merino wool. Likely long-sleeved, this shirt has a three-button top though Benjamin only wears the lowest button fastened.

BRAD PITT

Rather than a completely funereal black suit, Benjamin achieves a similar cool effect by wearing his black polo with a dark charcoal gray woolen flannel suit. The single-breasted suit jacket has a generous fit characteristic of the 1950s with wide, padded shoulders. The ventless jacket has notch lapels that roll to a likely two-button front with a welted breast pocket and sporty patch pockets on the hips.

Benjamin’s suit trousers have reverse pleats that contribute to their full fit, finished at the bottom with turn-ups (cuffs). Like Brando above, Benjamin wears a slim brown leather belt that contrasts against the dark suiting and shirt.

Benjamin looks both somber yet slick and youthful for his visit to Daisy's hospital bed.

Benjamin looks both somber yet slick and youthful for his visit to Daisy’s hospital bed.

Benjamin coordinates his belt to his dark brown wingtip derby brogues, the ideal shade of brown to harmonize with the dark outfit while contributing just enough of a colorful contrast to make the overall look more interesting. His pale gray socks look vintage, detailed on the outer ankles with an indigo-stitched pattern.

BRAD PITT

The adventurous Benjamin struts up to the hospital’s main entrance wearing a pair of gold-framed aviator sunglasses with dark gray lenses and additional bridge support with what Ray-Ban called an “enhanced brow bar” when marketing their Outdoorsman frame that is similar to what Benjamin wears here. You can still purchase the Ray-Ban Outdoorsman (from Amazon or Ray-Ban), an evolution of the original “Skeet Glass” frame introduced for sportsmen by Bausch & Lomb 80 years ago in 1939.

BRAD PITT

Benjamin wears a broad-fitting camel coat, a holdout from the boxy fashions introduced with the “Bold Look” in 1948, with the wide, buttressed shoulders that defined trendy men’s fashions into the 1950s. The single-breasted coat has notch lapels with a three-button fly front, straight flapped hip pockets, and roped sleeveheads.

A brief vignette after the hospital sequence gives us a better look at the overcoat as Benjamin wears it over a beatnik-friendly black roll-neck jumper.

A brief vignette after the hospital sequence gives us a better look at the overcoat as Benjamin wears it over a beatnik-friendly black roll-neck jumper.

How to Get the Look

Brad Pitt as Benjamin Button in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button (2008)

Brad Pitt as Benjamin Button in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button (2008)

If Black Friday doesn’t inspire you to try channeling Benjamin Button’s dark and dressed-down suit, consider the fact that black is considered a slimming color…and many of us have bellyfuls of turkey, mashed potatoes, and pie that we’re trying to recover from.

  • Charcoal woolen flannel suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button suit jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
    • Reverse-pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black knit long-sleeve polo shirt with 3-button top
  • Dark brown leather belt with small steel single-prong buckle
  • Dark brown calf leather wingtip derby-laced brogues
  • Light gray vintage socks with indigo ankle stitching
  • Camel wool single-breasted 3-button overcoat with notch lapels and straight flapped hip pockets
  • Gold-framed “brow bar” aviator sunglasses with dark gray lenses

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and F. Scott Fitzgerald’s 1922 short story.

The Quote

Sometimes we’re on a collision course, and we just don’t know it. Whether it’s by accident or by design, there’s not a thing we can do about it.

The Band Wagon: Fred Astaire’s Gray Flannel Suit

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Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Vitals

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter, musical comedy star

New York, Spring 1953

Film: The Band Wagon
Release Date: August 7, 1953
Director: Vincente Minnelli
Costume Designer: Mary Ann Nyberg

Background

Happy 2020!

Let’s dance into the new year with a dapper Fred Astaire in the dazzling opening sequence of Vincent Minnelli’s 1953 musical The Band Wagon, more than a decade after Astaire had danced across the screen with Bing Crosby, Virginia Dale, and Marjorie Reynolds for two on-screen New Year celebrations in Holiday Inn.

Bing Crosby, Marjorie Reynolds, Fred Astaire, and Virginia Dale ring in the new year in <em>Holiday Inn</em> (1942).

Bing Crosby, Marjorie Reynolds, Fred Astaire, and Virginia Dale ring in the new year in Holiday Inn (1942).

The Band Wagon introduces us to Astaire as Tony Hunter, a “singin’, dancin’ fella” as he overhears two fellow passengers describing him on the train to New York,  puncturing his pride when one of the men suggests that Tony is “washed up” as he hasn’t starred in a movie in three years. Though keenly aware that the general public assumes he is “through” like the two men on the train, Tony is encouraged by reporters rolling out the proverbial red carpet when the train arrives in New York… only to discover that the press is there to receive Ava Gardner, who was on the same train.

Tony expresses his sorrows in a solo performance of “By Myself” until he’s interrupted by the small but mighty “Tony Hunter Fan Club”, consisting of fellow actors Lester and Lily Marton (Oscar Levant and Nanette Fabray), who eagerly explain the musical comedy they’ve penned that would serve as the perfect vehicle for Tony’s stage comeback. The trio makes their way up 42nd Street to Sarti’s, though Tony sends the Martons on their way in a taxi as he jaunts through an arcade to the tune of “Shine on Your Shoes”, a song brought to life as he employs the expert services of a shoeshiner (Leroy Daniels) whose tropical red aloha shirt is reminiscent of Magnum, P.I.

While I aspire to dress like Fred, my more frequent attire is likely more in line with the shoeshiner's ensemble.

While I aspire to dress like Fred, my more frequent attire is likely more in line with the shoeshiner’s ensemble.

What’d He Wear?

Fred Astaire is dressed to his usual high standards, working with Academy Award-nominated costume designer Mary Ann Nyberg to appoint Tony Hunter with the same tastefully rakish sartorial approach as the dancer himself favored both on- and off-screen, showcased by Harry Jackson’s impressive color cinematography.

Tony’s introductory suit exemplifies how muted, conservative colors can be anything but bland when worn with style. As far as colors go, a gray suit with a blue shirt and tie is hardly revolutionary and rarely exciting, but Astaire brings the outfit to life through flattering double-breasted tailoring and interesting textures and accompanying pieces.

While the double-breasted jacket of his light gray flannel suit has a classic 6×2 button formation, Astaire typically wears only the lowest button fastened (though there are a few shots where he wears both buttons done; unlike a single-breasted coat, double-breasted jackets can and typically should be worn with both buttons fastened for a cleaner look.) Astaire can get away with wearing only the bottom button fastened due how cleanly the peak lapels roll over the center row of buttons.

Flanked by his "fan club", Tony Hunter takes in the familiar sights and sounds of The Great White Way.

Flanked by his “fan club”, Tony Hunter takes in the familiar sights and sounds of The Great White Way.

Tony’s ventless jacket has padded shoulders with roped sleeveheads, and the sleeves are finished with four-button cuffs. In addition to straight flapped hip pockets, the jacket has a welted breast pocket where Astaire wears an eye-catching burgundy silk hank, arranged in Astaire’s typical jaunty fashion. This small detail proves the effective power of the pocket square, adding a high-contrasting dark touch that ties his outfit together by echoing a color seen only in the stripe of his hat and resisting the common urge to coordinate with his shirt or tie.

The shirt and tie in question are both light blue, though the slate shade of his silk tie—kept in place by the shirt’s elegant button-down collar and a bright silver tie clip—adds just enough of a tonal contrast.

THE BAND WAGON

Trouser pleats have often been collateral damage against the cyclical nature of men’s fashion across the last century. While some contemporary sartorial advisers suggest pleated trousers only for larger men seeking a more flattering fit, look no further than the elegant example the lean Fred Astaire sets when striding and stepping in his pleated trousers. At the time that The Band Wagon was produced, trouser pleats had been back en vogue for the better part of a decade, emblematic of the American postwar trends that celebrated excessive fabrics in the wake of a booming nation free of wartime restrictions or a national economic depression.

These light gray flannel suit trousers have double reverse-facing pleats flanking the center fly, with the rear pleat on each side considerably shorter than the forward pleat. Behind each set of pleats is a pocket opening that gently slants from the belt line around each hip with no pockets in the back. The bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Astaire’s trousers are rigged with the dropped “Hollywood”-style belt loops that were popular during this age of high-rise trousers and the increased popularity of belts as opposed to suspenders or side adjusters. While Astaire was famous for his frequent practice of using old neckties or handkerchiefs as a sash, he wears a walnut brown leather belt here with the gold-toned single-prong buckle dashed off to the left. The dancer explained in a 1957 interview with GQ that this was his usual practice when wearing belts, “simply to get [the buckle] out of the way.”

THE BAND WAGON

Tony wears the suit trousers orphaned in a few scenes later in the movie during rehearsals, once with a gray cardigan and on their own in another scene with Gaby Gerard (Cyd Charisse): “Did you ever try spreading ideals on a cracker?” He appears to be wearing the same light blue shirt with the button-down collar, but he wears higher-contrasting neckwear, a navy silk tie patterned with neat rows of white polka dots, worn with a gold tie chain.

THE BAND WAGON

Throughout the opening sequence, Tony wears dark brown leather shoes with a pair of eye-popping royal blue socks that echo the blue of his shirt and tie, though it appears that different shoes were used between the train and the arcade dance number scenes. At the train station, Tony’s oxfords appear to have a cap toe but, by the time he’s dancing through the arcade, the toecap appears to be a distinctive wingtip shape.

Tony gets a snapshot of his kicks for posterity.

Tony gets a snapshot of his kicks for posterity.

By the early 1950s, the straw boater was already considered old-fashioned, thus it’s perhaps appropriate to see the “washed-up” Tony Hunter sporting one for his arrival in New York City. That said, the jauntily askew skimmer looks perfect atop Astaire’s frame as he dances his way through the Big Apple. The boater is banded with a strip of grosgrain silk, detailed with two bold red stripes against a navy ground.

Astaire wears what was likely his own jewelry of a gold signet ring on his right pinky and a gold curb-chain bracelet on his left wrist.

THE BAND WAGON

Though the trousers make a few orphaned appearances as detailed above, the full suit appears only once more in a brief vignette as he and Gaby have reluctantly signed on to perform in the Martons’ new show with grandiose actor Jeffrey Cordova (Jack Buchanan). Tony sits comfortably crouched in his front-row seat wearing this light gray flannel double-breasted suit and his usual light blue button-down shirt, but he has substituted the blue tie and straw boater for a brown striped bow tie and a dark taupe fedora with a narrow band.

Cordova sits among his new co-stars Gaby and Tony as he eagerly shows off the stage to the production's core team.

Cordova sits among his new co-stars Gaby and Tony as he eagerly shows off the stage to the production’s core team.

How to Get the Look

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

In The Band Wagon, Fred Astaire injects his own colorful style into Tony Hunter’s wardrobe which pleasantly flirts with anachronism as he brings a colorfully old-fashioned flair to 1950s New York in his double-breasted suit and skimmer.

  • Light gray flannel tailored suit:
    • Double-breasted 6×2-button jacket with welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and ventless back
    • Double reverse-pleated trousers with dropped “Hollywood” belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Light blue oxford-cloth cotton shirt with button-down collar, front placket, and button cuffs
  • Slate blue silk tie
  • Bright silver tie clip
  • Royal blue socks
  • Straw boater with navy-and-burgundy striped grosgrain silk band
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Gold curb-chain bracelet
  • Burgundy silk pocket square

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

The funny thing about what you’re saying, boys, is that it’s absolutely true. Here, have an exploding cigar.

The Irishman: De Niro’s Brown Fleck Suit

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Robert De Niro as Frank Sheeran in The Irishman (2019)

Robert De Niro as Frank Sheeran in The Irishman (2019)

Vitals

Robert De Niro as Frank “the Irishman” Sheeran, tough Mafia enforcer

Philadelphia to Chicago, Spring 1960

Film: The Irishman
Release Date: November 1, 2019
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Design: Sandy Powell & Christopher Peterson

Background

I heard you paint houses.

After years of proving himself as an enforcer to Mafia families around Philadelphia and northeast Pennsylvania, former truck driver Frank Sheeran (Robert De Niro) gets the phone call of his life when controversial labor leader Jimmy Hoffa (Al Pacino) gets in touch with him for a “situation… that needs to be attended to.”

The exchange from Martin Scorsese’s latest organized crime epic, The Irishman, was lifted verbatim from the real Sheeran’s recollection included in Charles Brandt’s bestselling 2004 book of the same name, I Heard You Paint Houses:

“I heard you paint houses,” Jimmy said.
“Y-Y-Yeah, and I d-do my own carpentry work, too.” I was embarrassed because I was stammering.
“That’s what I wanted to hear. I understand you’re a brother of mine.”
“That’s right.” I was keeping my sentences short and my words few. “Local 107. Since 1947.”
“Our friend speaks very highly of you.”
“Thank you.”
“He’s not an easy man to please.”
“I do my best,” I said.

Since its premiere at the 2019 New York Film Festival, The Irishman has been suggested to be a top contender for the Academy Award for Best Picture, with Scorsese and De Niro rounding out the fields for Best Director and Best Actor, respectively.

What’d He Wear?

By 1960, Frank Sheeran has risen from a poor Teamster with a broken-down truck to a trusted mob enforcer about to be promoted into the big league through his association with Jimmy Hoffa. To reflect this boosted status, Sheeran dresses in a brown two-piece suit patterned in a trendy “atomic fleck” design. While flecked suiting had been present in menswear since at least the early 20th century, it enjoyed its peak of fashionability during the Jet Age with the imperfect flecks and slubs reflecting a starry sky, appealing to this cosmic-obsessed era.

Frank’s single-breasted suit jacket has notch lapels of moderate width that reflect the narrowing of lapels and ties that would continue through the early 1960s. It has a welted breast pocket and low hip pockets with the flaps tucked in to just show the jetting. The sleeves are roped at the shoulders and finished with three buttons on each cuff.

THE IRISHMAN

Atomic fleck was a popular pattern for both sport jackets and matching suits, with Frank Sheeran wearing the latter. The suit’s double reverse-pleated trousers have straight side pockets, two button-through back pockets, and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms.

Frank wears a slim leather belt with a small squared steel single-prong buckle that appears to be a dark brown leather to coordinate with his brown leather split-toe derby shoes worn with black socks.

THE IRISHMAN

Shirt and Tie #1: The Phone Call

Many of the shirts worn by De Niro, Pacino, Joe Pesci, and other cast members of The Irishman were made by Geneva Custom Shirts, an experienced New York shirtmaker that has made outstanding shirts for many productions, including several helmed by Martin Scorsese. Unlike the flashier gangsters of Goodfellas and Casino, costume designers Sandy Powell and Christopher Peterson determined that the low-key organized crime figures in the world of The Irishman would take a more subtle approach to dressing, eschewing the distinctive spearpoint collar that has become a Scorsese film signature in favor of a more tasteful and universal style.

Unique textured shirtings add subtle touches of character to Frank Sheeran’s wardrobe without the excess of the fang-like collars or pastel silks of the shirts seen in Scorsese’s earlier canon. The white diamond-textured shirt that Sheeran wears when he receives the fateful “I heard you paint houses” phone call from Jimmy Hoffa has a semi-spread collar and button cuffs. His tie is likely vintage, split into two parts with a “downhill” diagonal split separating the solid brick red bottom from the gold nailhead-overlaid top, decorated with three ornate gold squares just below the split. (Unseen under the table, the tie blade is dipped in a solid old gold.)

"I also do my own carpentry."

“I also do my own carpentry.”

Shirt and Tie #2: Chicago

When he arrives in Chicago and meets with Joey Glimcoe and Jimmy Hoffa, Sheeran wears another subtly textured white shirt, detailed with neat and tight rows of raised white slubs. Like his earlier shirt, this has a point collar, button cuffs, front placket, and breast pocket.

THE IRISHMAN

During this Chicago sequence, he wears a brown tie with a subtle two-toned checker board. Due to the low contrast of the shades of brown, it looks like a solid brown tie from a distance but a closer look via Netflix’s high-resolution streaming reveals that it is indeed a checker board pattern in such a large scale that the tie is only two “squares” wide.

A taciturn Frank regards Joey Glimcoe's rum-termelon. More on that later.

A taciturn Frank regards Joey Glimcoe’s rum-termelon. More on that later.

Shirt and Tie #3: Career Day

Frank’s onboarding experience with Hoffa converts he and his family to full-time Hoffa fandom, and even his daughter advocates for the union leader during her “Career Day 1960” presentation at her school. A beaming Frank watches from the side of the room, wearing this suit and a micro-patterned white shirt with a different tie than the previously seen neckwear. This dark indigo tie is patterned with an askew foulard pattern of red-filled squares with gold edges organized in rows four squares wide.

THE IRISHMAN

Shirt and Tie #4: Swirls

Finally, the last prominently seen tie with this suit again calls on the brick-and-gold tones of the first “phone call” tie, patterned in gold swirls against a rusty brown ground. Like the other ties, he secures it with a thin gold-toned tie clip detailed with four diagonal ridges.

Frank oversees the Teamsters' involvement with the expansion of The Dunes in Las Vegas.

Frank oversees the Teamsters’ involvement with the expansion of The Dunes in Las Vegas.

Everything Else

Frank combats the infamous gusts of the Windy City by wearing a taupe gabardine topcoat. The knee-length coat has a single-breasted, four-button fly front with edge swelling on the wide notch lapels. The padded shoulders are fashionably wide for a full, boxy fit through the body of the coat, which has hip pockets, cuffed sleeves, and a long single vent.

This pre-JFK era was the twilight of men’s hats (as well as Jimmy Hoffa’s power), and Frank wears a light olive-tinted felt fedora with a narrow grosgrain and grosgrain edges.

Joey and Frank pick out the perfect watermelon to absorb a bottle full of Bacardi.

Joey and Frank pick out the perfect watermelon to absorb a bottle full of Bacardi.

Having graduated from his utilitarian military-style field watch, Frank the successful gangster dresses his wrist with a gold tank watch. The watch has a rose gold rectangular dial with plain gold hour markers, a small 6:00 sub-dial, and a textured black leather strap.

Update! The watch has been identified by BAMF Style readers Cedric and Aldous as a Bulova President from the 1940s.

Frank keeps his weapon and watch handy as he sleeps.

Frank keeps his weapon and watch handy as he sleeps.

You can read more about The Irishman‘s costume design in these contemporary features and interviews with Sandy Powell and Christopher Peterson:

The costume designers also cited the invaluable help of assistant costume designer Brittany Griffin who also happened to be Frank Sheeran’s granddaughter and was able to share archival photographs and even items that belonged to her grandfather.

The Gun

Frank Sheeran packs a snub-nosed Smith & Wesson Model 36 revolver for his trip to Chicago, beginning a long tradition of keeping his “friend” handy to protect Hoffa. Alternatively known as the “Chiefs Special”  following a vote when it was introduced at the 1950 International Association of Chiefs of Police convention, the five-shot Model 36 in .38 Special has been favored by cops and crooks alike for its balance of power and concealability. Frank carries a few Model 36 revolvers throughout The Irishman, using them for hits and keeping them handy for his bodyguard detail.

Frank never travels without his "friend", in this case a Smith & Wesson .38-caliber revolver.

Frank never travels without his “friend”, in this case a Smith & Wesson .38-caliber revolver.

What to Imbibe

Anisette, Sambuca, Scotch, Chianti… it’s always safe to assume you’re going to be seeing these in a Martin Scorsese movie, specifically one set in the mid-century mob community. The Irishman is no exception and for good reason as Frank Sheeran admitted to Charles Brandt in I Heard You Paint Houses that Chianti was his booze of choice after acquiring a taste for the dry red wine while serving in Italy during World War II.

Brandt’s book also includes an entertaining anecdote during Sheeran’s early days of working for Jimmy Hoffa, famously a teetotaler who reportedly disdained drinking among his ranks. Sheeran had been paired up with Bill Isabel and Sam Portwine, two union guys working in a public relations capacity for the International Brotherhood of Teamsters… though Bill’s noted proficiency in bombing suggests a more sinister set of skills than the usual publicist’s duties of drafting press releases and fielding media interviews.

I spent nights at the Edgewater, mostly rooming with Jimmy Hoffa when he came in from his home in Detroit. Sam and Bill and I would cut a hole in a watermelon and fill it with rum so Jimmy didn’t know we were drinking. “Boy, you men sure like your watermelon,” Jimmy would say.

The Irishman depicts Frank learning the watermelon trick from gregarious Chicago labor racketeer Joey Glimco (Bo Dietl), who jams a bottle of Bacardi into a fresh watermelon. In the subsequent scene, Frank and Joey blissfully enjoy their watermelon slices while the teetotaling Hoffa sticks to his Canada Dry ginger ale.

"Another thing about him, Jimmy hates fucking watermelon. But we're gonna like watermelon."

“Another thing about him, Jimmy hates fucking watermelon. But we’re gonna like watermelon.”

If you’re interested in enjoying rum and watermelon but you don’t have to hide your imbibing from anyone, check out this recipe for a Watermelon Rum Cocktail, courtesy of the Food Network:

Puree 1⅓ cups diced seedless watermelon in a blender until very smooth. Pour into a cocktail shaker filled with ice and add the ½ cup rum (white or dark), 2 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur (such as triple sec), and 2 tablespoons lime juice. Shake vigorously and strain into 2 ice-filled cocktail glasses. Garnish each with a lime round.

How to Get the Look

Robert De Niro as Frank Sheeran in The Irishman (2019)

Robert De Niro as Frank Sheeran in The Irishman (2019)

Vintage touches like flecked suiting, retro-patterned ties, and tastefully textured shirts go a long way in establishing Robert De Niro’s Frank Sheeran as an increasingly fashionable mid-century mobster.

  • Brown “atomic fleck” wool suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and single vent
    • Double reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, button-through back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • White textured shirt with semi-spread collar, plain front, breast pocket, and rounded button cuffs
  • Brick red-and-gold vintage-patterned tie
  • Silver ridged tie clip
  • Slim dark brown leather belt with small squared steel single-prong buckle
  • Dark brown leather split-toe derby shoe
  • Black dress socks
  • Taupe gabardine single-breasted topcoat with notch lapels, 3-button covered-fly front, and straight hip pockets
  • Light olive felt fedora with narrow grosgrain band
  • Gold wedding ring
  • Gold tank watch with rose gold dial on black textured leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, currently streaming on Netflix. I also recommend reading I Heard You Paint Houses, the 2004 memoir by Charles Brandt that inspired The Irishman. (If you read the book, you’ll see that The Irishman somewhat condenses the narrative of Frank Sheeran’s first association with Jimmy Hoffa, moving the time and place from Detroit around 1958 to Chicago, circa early 1960.)

The Quote

Nowadays, young people, they don’t know who Jimmy Hoffa was. They don’t have a clue. I mean, maybe they know that he disappeared or something, but that’s about it. But back then, there wasn’t nobody in this country who didn’t know who Jimmy Hoffa was.

Cary Grant’s Final Screen Tuxedo in That Touch of Mink

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Cary Grant and Doris Day in That Touch of Mink (1962)

Cary Grant and Doris Day in That Touch of Mink (1962)

Vitals

Cary Grant as Philip Shayne, smooth, sophisticated, and suave investment executive and “perfect gentleman”

Bermuda, Spring 1962

Film: That Touch of Mink
Release Date: June 14, 1962
Director: Delbert Mann
Tailor: Cardinal Clothes (credited “for Cary Grant’s suits”)

Background

To commemorate the birthday of Cary Grant, born on this day in 1904, let’s celebrate the debonair actor who was seemingly born to wear a tuxedo. After three decades of a well-tailored career, the erstwhile Archie Leach sported his final on-screen dinner suit in the romantic comedy That Touch of Mink released in 1962, the same year as the first James Bond movie was released, thus heralding the transfer of the definitive screen dinner suit-wearer to 007. (Of Grant’s three final films, he sported nothing more formal than businesslike lounge suits in Charade and Walk Don’t Run and he spent his penultimate film—Father Goose—dressed in the comfortably threadbare beach wear that Variety described at the time as “tattered attire.”)

That Touch of Mink stars Grant opposite Doris Day as Cathy Timberlake, a Sandusky-born shopgirl who finds herself swept off her feet by Philip Shayne, a charming and successful businessman in the tradition of Grant’s customary screen persona. He plans a romantic escape for them in Bermuda, but she succumbs to the internalized pressure of his possible expectations and breaks out into hives just before bed. With little to do when Cathy quarantines herself int heir suite, Roger makes the rounds of the resort grounds, splitting his time between a poolside chat with a nervous newlywed played by Dick Sargent (aka Bewitched‘s controversial second Darren) and cheating at cards. As he later describes to his neurotic assistant Roger (Gig Young):

Roger, I flew 800 miles to a tropical paradise to drink hot milk and butter. I spent half the night playing gin rummy with a bookie from Detroit. It was not a memorable evening. Now if you’re not out of here in five seconds, I’ll raise your salary.

What’d He Wear?

As Cary Grant evolved his personal brand of on-screen elegance, he established the link-button dinner jacket as his preferred style, favored in films like To Catch a Thief and An Affair to Remember. Grant’s tuxedos were almost always midnight blue wool, the tasteful alternative to plain black, though his style reverted from the shawl collar of John Robie’s dinner jacket to the more traditional and formal peaked lapels that he would wear exclusively on his on-screen black tie kits, excepting the natty velvet dinner jacket rigged with a shawl collar that he wears in The Grass is Greener.

In That Touch of Mink, Grant’s final screen-worn tuxedo is a culmination of his debonair career. His midnight blue wool dinner jacket is tailored with a comfortably full and flattering cut that gave the 58-year-old actor room to move without even approaching looking baggy or oversized. The wide shoulders, roped at each sleevehead, balance the actor’s larger head for which he was famously (if unfairly) self-conscious. Per the fashions of the early ’60s, his peak lapels are narrower than those on the previous decade’s dinner jackets, though still of a moderate width that transcends timely trends. The lapels have a straight gorge with no space notched between the upper collar and the satin-faced lower portion of each lapel.

Cathy and Philip ascend to their room on the "scandalous" elevator.

Cathy and Philip ascend to their room on the “scandalous” elevator.

The peak lapels on Grant’s ventless dinner jacket roll to the single link-closure buttoning point at his natural waist, perfectly positioned over where his cummerbund covers the waist line of his trousers. The dinner jacket has a welted breast pocket, though he wears no white or colorful pocket hank to dress it, in addition to straight jetted hip pockets.

Each sleeve ends with a narrow silk gauntlet “turnback” cuff, a neo-Edwardian detail that was also occasionally favored by black tie icons Sean Connery (as James Bond) and Frank Sinatra. There is also a single silk-covered button adorning each cuff.

Philip treats himself to a nightcap from the greatest hotel room bar this side of Scent of a Woman.

Philip treats himself to a nightcap from the greatest hotel room bar this side of Scent of a Woman.

Grant wears a white formal shirt with a point collar, his usual shirt collar chosen to counter his head size, though this effect is somewhat negated as he naturally wears a bow tie rather than a straight necktie.

The shirt has a narrowly pleated front, though the pleats occasionally group together to create the look of wider pleats that are difficult to differentiate depending on the lighting, camera distance, and screen resolution. Rather than attached buttons, the shirt placket fastens with two visible onyx studs, and the double (French) cuffs are linked by recessed gold cuff links, detailed with a small onyx filling in the center of each link.

Philip meets a newlywed (Dick Sargent) in Bermuda. In 1962, Bewitched was still two years away, and Dick Sargent would actually be offered the role of Darren Stephens before it was filled by Dick York. When York left the show in 1969, Sargent stepped up to play Darren.

Philip meets a newlywed (Dick Sargent) in Bermuda. In 1962, Bewitched was still two years away, and Dick Sargent would actually be offered the role of Darren Stephens before it was filled by Dick York. When York left the show in 1969, Sargent stepped in to play Darren.

Grant wears a bow tie of midnight blue silk to coordinate with his dinner suit and match the silk facings. While the straight batwing and diamond-pointed styles were very common in mid-century menswear, Grant opts for a classic wide thistle (or “butterfly”) shape, tied in a thick knot.

Some gents prefer larger bow tie knots to properly fill the tie space between shirt collar leaves, but this wouldn't be necessary with the limited tie space of Grant's point collar.

Some gents prefer larger bow tie knots to properly fill the tie space between shirt collar leaves, but this wouldn’t be necessary with the limited tie space of Grant’s point collar.

The matching midnight blue wool formal trousers have forward-facing pleats that add to an elegantly full fit through the hips down to the plain-hemmed bottoms, accented by the requisite silk piping along each side seam.

Though he never removes or even unbuttons his jacket to confirm this, Grant appears to be wearing a midnight silk cummerbund, a wise and cooler-wearing alternative to a waistcoat in Bermuda’s warm tropical climate.

THAT TOUCH OF MINK

Grant suitably ends his black tie tenure by sporting a pair of black patent leather opera pumps, decorated with a black grosgrain silk bow on each vamp and worn with black socks. Also known as the court shoe, the formal men’s pump shoe dates back more than 200 years to the Regency era and, at the start of the 20th century, it was still de rigeuer for men’s formal white tie and semi-formal black tie dress codes. Particularly with the latter, pump shoes were phased out by the popularity and practicality of lace-up oxfords though they remained in use by arbiters of good taste with a sense of tradition.

Not only are Philip's pump shoes the traditional choice, they would also likely be more comfortable and practical in the warm and relaxed Bermuda resort.

Not only are Philip’s pump shoes the traditional choice, they would also likely be more comfortable and practical in the warm and relaxed Bermuda resort.

How to Get the Look

Cary Grant as Philip Shayne in That Touch of Mink (1962). Photo by Milton Greene.

Cary Grant as Philip Shayne in That Touch of Mink (1962)
Photo by Milton Greene.

That Touch of Mink offered Cary Grant a fitting farewell to the elegant black tie dress code associated with the debonair actor and the sophisticated characters he played throughout the decades, sending him off in a neatly tailored and uniquely detailed dinner jacket.

  • Midnight blue wool dinner suit:
    • Single-breasted link-button dinner jacket with straight-gorge silk-faced peak lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, single-button gauntlet cuffs, and ventless back
    • Forward-pleated formal trousers with silk seam piping, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White cotton pleated-front formal shirt with point collar and double/French cuffs
    • Onyx shirt studs
    • Gold recessed circular cuff links with onyx-filled centers
  • Midnight blue silk butterfly-shaped bow tie
  • Black patent leather opera pumps
  • Black thin silk socks

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

I’m kissing you, do you mind?

Gun Crazy: John Dall’s Tweed Jacket

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John Dall as Bart Tare in Gun Crazy (1950)

John Dall as Bart Tare in Gun Crazy (1950)

Vitals

John Dall as Bart Tare, armed robber on the run

San Lorenzo Valley, California, Fall 1949, to Albuquerque, New Mexico, Spring 1950

Film: Gun Crazy
(also released as Deadly is the Female)
Release Date: January 20, 1950
Director: Joseph H. Lewis
Costume Designer: Norma Koch (credited with Peggy Cummins’ costumes only)

Background

Fifteen years after armed robbers Clyde Barrow and Bonnie Parker were ambushed and killed on a rural Louisiana road, one of the first attempts to adapt their story for the silver screen arrived in theaters. Sure, there had been Fritz Lang’s sympathetic melodrama You Only Live Once (1937) and the FBI-endorsed propaganda Persons in Hiding (1939), but Gun Crazy—released exactly 70 years ago today—most effectively latched onto the intrigue of a gun-toting couple on the run, and, “more than any other, emphasizes the powerful attraction of weaponry in the growing legend of Bonnie and Clyde,” according to John Treherne, author of The Strange History of Bonnie and Clyde.

Gun Crazy‘s telling original title of Deadly is the Female reflects the narrative leaning into the noir-esque premise of a dominating femme fatale, an expert in firearms who seduces her lovestruck fella into a life of crime… an inverse of the generally accepted reality of the relationship between violent manipulator Clyde Barrow and the vulnerable and troubled Bonnie Parker.

A year after his chilling turn as the calculating, Loeb-like murderer in Hitchcock’s Rope, John Dall stars as the malleable Bart Tare, who finds himself fatefully—and fatally—drawn to the voluptuous carnival sharpshooter Annie Laurie Starr (Peggy Cummins), “the darling of London, England,” though it’s a toss-up whether it’s her tight pants, knowing wink, or dueling pistols that sink the hook into the already doomed Bart.

Laurie models the diamond ring she offers as collateral to hold up her end of the bargain with Bart while the villainous "Packy" - dressed like a classic movie gangster in his boldly striped suit, dark shirt, and light tie - looks on with concern.

Laurie models the diamond ring she offers as collateral to hold up her end of the bargain with Bart while the villainous “Packy”—dressed like a classic movie gangster in his boldly striped suit, dark shirt, and light tie—looks on with concern.

Early Warner Brothers criminal fare like The Public Enemy and Angels with Dirty Faces often kicked off their stories with vignettes from the characters’ childhoods to explain their motivations. In this case, we start with a teenage Bart Tare (Russ Tamblyn), who embraces his talent for shooting sling-shots and BB guns by graduating to the unfortunate choice of stealing a stag-gripped revolver from a storefront window. The clumsy young criminal doesn’t have the purloined pistol in his hands for seconds before it clatters to the ground and lands at the feet of the local sheriff. The judge isn’t sold by Bart’s family and friends testifying that he is repulsed by the thought of taking a life, illustrated by his remorse after shooting a young bird with a BB gun, and the young Bart gets the proverbial book thrown at him.

After four years in reform school and a stint teaching marksmanship in the Army, Bart finds himself back in his hometown, blissfully at ease firing the Remington .22 pump rifle that had been a boyhood favorite for Bart and his pals Dave Allister (Nedrick Young) and Clyde Boston (Harry Lewis), now a newspaper reporter and the sheriff, respectively. Dave and Clyde welcome Bart back home by taking him to a carnival where he encounters Annie for the first time, accepting her crooked boss Packett’s challenge to try to outshoot her, a contest that would either yield him $500 or require him to pay $50. To Packett’s dismay and Laurie’s intrigued disappointment, Bart equals her at the initial challenge before besting her at “the crown”, where each fire at six matches placed atop the other’s head.

“What else do you do besides shoot?” asks Laurie. “Well, it’s been enough so far,” responds Bart, who finds himself offered a job on the spot by Laurie and the shady Packy in “the crookedest little carnival layout west of the Mississippi.”

It isn’t long before Bart gets both of them fired from the show for confronting their opportunistic manager, so Bart and Laurie get married and spend an idyllic honeymoon traveling through the southwest, eating through their dwindling funds as more and more weeks pass since their last paid work. Their poverty reaches a point that, one night in a cheap greasy spoon, Bart has to turn down onions on his hamburger to avoid paying the extra nickel.

One of the many fantastic classic movie gifs created by The Nitrate Diva.

One of the many fantastic classic movie gifs created by The Nitrate Diva.

The humbling experience convinces at least Laurie that it’s time to think of more ‘creative’ ways to earn money… to “start kicking back” rather than continue to be kicked around all her life. Laurie tells him that if he won’t comply, he should just kiss her good bye… and the kiss is enough to convince him to begin right away, robbing the very hotel where they’re currently staying. After the bungled “one last job” to steal the payroll from an Armour factory in Albuquerque where Laurie committed the duo’s first murders, they’re back on the run with their dream of getting rich and growing old together all but impossible. The two try to stick to their plan on driving away in separate cars, meeting again in two months, but even two minutes separated is unbearable for the doomed couple and they speed back to meet and agree on the unspoken pact to meet their fate together, whatever it may be.

Good luck, you two.

Good luck, you two.

Based on a script co-written by MacKinlay Kantor and a then-blacklisted Dalton Trumbo (who was fronted by his friend Millard Kaufman), Gun Crazy was filmed in just 30 days for less than a half million dollars. B-movie specialist Joseph H. Lewis saved time and money with his direction, often exploring guerrilla film-making techniques including a real-time robbery sequence filmed from the back seat of Laurie and Bart’s “getaway car” as the actors improvised dialogue with few extras or surrounding drivers aware of what was actually happening. You can check out the actual locations where this sequence as well as the rest of the movie was filmed here.

What’d He Wear?

Aside from his disguises, Western-themed carnival costume, and the occasional two-piece suit, Bart Tare generally spends his civilian days and brief criminal career dressed in the trusty combination of a tweed jacket, button-down shirt, knit tie, and flannel trousers.

Gun Crazy was produced during the brief heyday of what Esquire promoted in April 1948 as the “Bold Look” in American menswear, embracing the post-WWII boom and the full-cut clothing produced as a reaction to lifting the wartime restrictions on clothing production. Jackets and trousers were both cut fuller and longer as clothing manufacturers took advantage of the bounteous material available to them. According to Francesca Sterlacci and Joanne Arbuckle in The A to Z of the Fashion Industry, the Bold Look was specifically characterized by “a loose-fitting jacket with pronounced shoulders.”

GUN CRAZY

A lean 6’1″, John Dall occasionally looks dwarfed by his long, enveloping herringbone tweed sport jacket, cut with the requisite wide shoulders of the era, ventless back, and the boxy, shapeless “sack coat” styling associated with American menswear. Constructed of a durable woolen tweed, the single-breasted jacket looks well lived-in and would serve Bart well through his months on the road with an array of patch pockets to be filled with extra cartridges or cash yielded through the fruits of his new vocation.

The broad notch lapels, which roll to a three-button front balanced by Dall’s height, are also indicative of some of the trendy postwar excesses, though the widths of jacket lapels, shirt collars, and tie blades during the late 1940s would still be widely outdone during the height of the disco era three decades later.

Bart allows himself to be totally charmed by Laurie.

Bart allows himself to be totally charmed by Laurie.

There are plenty of lobby cards from the time of the film’s release with contemporary suggestions of the colors of Bart’s clothing, though the jacket only briefly appears in the bottom of one lobby card, where it is colored in an earthy tan, a popular shade for tweed jackets like this. Bart’s shirt and tie on the other hand, are widely featured in this contemporary artwork, typically colored with a pale-to-light blue shirt and a dark maroon tie.

Contemporary lobby art from both the original release (Deadly is the Female) and the re-release (Gun Crazy) are relatively consistent in the color of Bart's shirt and tie and Laurie's dress, but even the furniture and carpeting in the room are inconsistently colored.

Contemporary lobby art from both the original release (Deadly is the Female) and the re-release (Gun Crazy) are relatively consistent in the color of Bart’s shirt and tie and Laurie’s dress, but even the furniture and carpeting in the room are inconsistently colored.

Likely a light blue as the lobby cards suggest, Bart’s oxford cloth cotton shirt has a button-down collar, front placket, breast pocket with a pointed bottom, and rounded barrel cuffs that each close with a button. His dark knitted tie with its flat bottom provides harmonious textural coordination with his rugged tweed jacket and considerably dressed-down shirt.

Bart and Laurie have one of those newlywed spats that results in a multi-state crime spree.

Bart and Laurie have one of those newlywed spats that results in a multi-state crime spree.

Pleated trousers were arguably the prevailing style in American menswear during what some call its “golden age” from the 1930s into the 1950s, particularly during the Bold Look years as tailors and clothiers celebrated the ample cloth at their disposal. Bart’s flannel trousers are rigged with double reverse pleats, though the second pleats are particularly shallow as the lean John Dall would not have needed the fullness that a deeper second pleat would have added.

(Though the aforementioned lobby cards help to suggest colors of Bart’s clothing, the coloration artists seem to have disagreed on the trousers with colors ranging from tan to gray, even sourcing images from the same scene!)

The trousers have a high rise to Dall’s natural waist, where they’re held in place by a slim, double-ridged belt in dark leather with a small single-prong buckle that he wears both centered and slightly hitched off to the right side, particularly seen as Bart and Laurie make their getaway from the Armour meat packing plant robbery. Finished on the bottoms with then-fashionable turn-ups (cuffs), Bart’s trousers have semi-dropped “Hollywood”-style belt loops, side pockets with a straight vertical opening just forward of each side seam, and jetted back pockets, the left one closing through a single button.

GUN CRAZY

Bart and Laurie’s honeymooning weeks were full of dancing, laughter, and adventure… but not prosperity. After failing to “buck Las Vegas” as Laurie had hoped, the honeymooning couple slouches at the end table in a train car-styled diner, pinching their nickels by keeping onions off their hamburgers and fueling their scheming with free coffee refills.

He’s tellingly dressed in the same duds he wore when he met her, supplanted with a medium-dark V-neck sweater to protect against the chilly desert night… as well as the chill in Laurie’s attitude as she focuses on finding a new way to transform their passion for firearms into a lucrative career. And not one working at a carnival.

The vibe is reminiscent of the "dead shark" relationship talk in Annie Hall decades later, but instead of breaking up, Laurie and Bart decide to revive their floundering association by becoming armed robbers. I wonder how that would have worked for Alvy and Annie...

The vibe is reminiscent of the “dead shark” relationship talk in Annie Hall decades later, but instead of breaking up, Laurie and Bart decide to revive their floundering association by becoming armed robbers. I wonder how that would have worked for Alvy and Annie…

Bart appears to wear one pair of shoes throughout his adventures with Laurie, a set of plain dark leather two-eyelet derby shoes with squared moc-toe fronts, worn with dark socks.

As Bart shines his shoes, the cynical clown Bluey-Bluey (Stanley Prager) advises him to be cautious of Laurie's true nature.

As Bart shines his shoes, the cynical clown Bluey-Bluey (Stanley Prager) advises him to be cautious of Laurie’s true nature.

After Bart and Laurie determine to follow a criminal path, he begins wearing a shoulder holster, though it isn’t the commonly seen rig hidden completely by his jacket. At first, I thought Bart was wearing a military holster, similar to the modern 1942 “Tanker” Holster manufactured by El Paso Saddlery Co., though his differs as the holster is on the same side as the main strap.

Best seen during the final sequence as the couple makes their getaway from Santa Monica, Bart’s holster is constructed with a thick strap over the left shoulder that connects to a holster under the left armpit. A thinner strap hooks just above the holster and stretches down around his torso, ostensibly connecting to a similar strip in the back

Bart's shoulder holster is less than ideal for concealment, as wearing his jacket open (as he often does) reveals a telltale strap across his torso.

Bart’s shoulder holster is less than ideal for concealment, as wearing his jacket open (as he often does) reveals a telltale strap across his torso.

For one robbery where Bart hesitates to kill a pursuing policeman much to Laurie’s chagrin, he adds a camel coat and sunglasses to his usual tweed jacket and tie. The knee-length overcoat has notch lapels that roll to a single-breasted, covered-fly front. The shoulders are padded, and the large side pockets have vertical welted openings for Bart to slip his revolver into rather than fussing with his shoulder holster under the additional layers. The set-in sleeves are turned-up at the ends with a small button in the uppermost corner of each cuff.

This production photo of John Dall and Peggy Cummins has become one of the most enduring images from Gun Crazy, often featured in commentary about noir style.

This production photo of John Dall and Peggy Cummins has become one of the most enduring images from Gun Crazy, often featured in commentary about noir style.

Bart’s tortoise-framed sunglasses with their rounded lens were typical of the era. Similar retro-minded styles are still available today, from eyewear stalwarts like PECK and Ray-Ban or budget brands on such as A.J. Morgan, Carfia, or ZENOTTIC.

Bart checks out the cop on their tail.

Bart checks out the cop on their tail.

Occasionally seen on Bart’s left wrist is a metal watch with a round, light-colored dial on a dark leather strap. This may be John Dall’s own timepiece and not meant to be part of the character’s wardrobe as several scenes of Bart with his shirt sleeves rolled up to his elbow reveal bare wrists.

The Gun

A movie called Gun Crazy isn’t gonna be about sling shots, though it’s primarily six-shooters and rarely anything heavier that our duo on the run uses throughout, aside from the .22-caliber pump rifle that Bart fires with his pals in the early scenes.

For the most part, the guns that both Bart and Laurie find themselves so crazy about are Colt products, right down to the massive M1917 revolver that the teenage Bart hoped to purloin in the opening sequence. Years later, he attends Laurie’s shooting demonstration at the carnival where she packs a pair of nickel Colt Police Positive revolvers.

Although the Police Positive is a double-action revolver, both Bart and Laurie "fan the hammer" like a single-action revolver (think Butch and Sundance) when proving their respective talents to the audience... and each other.

Although the Police Positive is a double-action revolver, both Bart and Laurie “fan the hammer” like a single-action revolver (think Butch and Sundance) when proving their respective talents to the audience… and each other.

Colt introduced the Police Positive in 1907, initially for smaller calibers before developing the Police Positive Special the following year to carry the more powerful .38 Special round. Apropos its designation, the lightweight steel Police Positive became a fast favorite among American law enforcement agencies.

During their crime spree, Bart carries a blued steel Colt, likely the Colt Official Police that was introduced in 1927 as a larger-framed alternative to the Police Positive. The Official Police actually evolved from an earlier Colt revolver designated the “Army Special” but, with the advent of semi-automatic service pistols like the venerable M1911, Colt rebranded this revolver to appeal to the American police market. The weapon’s name and reputation made an impression and, within half a decade, major police departments from New York to Los Angeles were arming its officers with .38 Special Official Police revolvers… though more than a few crooks on the other side of the law favored the reliable revolver as well.

Laurie drives, charging Bart with shooting the police chasing them. It's fortunate for the cops that the roles weren't reversed, as Bart hesitates to kill while Laurie seems to revel in it.

Laurie drives, charging Bart with shooting the police chasing them. It’s fortunate for the cops that the roles weren’t reversed, as Bart hesitates to kill while Laurie seems to revel in it.

Never fired on screen but prominently featured are the “handmade… English dueling pistols” that Bart proudly carries in a display case, taking the time to keep them clean even when he and Laurie barely have a dollar between them.

Admittedly, I have little experience with identifying dueling pistols like this, so all I can offer is what is shared on screen… though I do wonder if there’s some significance in the frequently referenced fact that Bart’s pistols are English-made, not unlike the woman that leads him astray.

Depleted of funds, Bart still takes the time to clean his English dueling pistols before offering to sell them to keep he and Laurie afloat. He would soon have no need for the ornate single-shot weapons once they graduate to full-time criminal careers.

Depleted of funds, Bart still takes the time to clean his English dueling pistols before offering to sell them to keep he and Laurie afloat. He would soon have no need for the ornate single-shot weapons once they graduate to full-time criminal careers.

John Dall as Bart Tare in Gun Crazy (1950)

John Dall as Bart Tare in Gun Crazy (1950)

How to Get the Look

Though Gun Crazy is 70 years old, John Dall’s tweed jacket, button-down shirt, knit tie, and flannel trousers could very effectively be worn today, albeit with some adjustments for a more contemporary fit.

  • Herringbone tweed single-breasted 3-button sport jacket with notch lapels, patch breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and ventless back
  • Light blue oxford cotton shirt with button-down collar, front placket, breast pocket, and rounded button cuffs
  • Dark knitted tie with flat bottom
  • sweater
  • Medium-colored flannel double reverse-pleated high-rise trousers with semi-dropped “Hollywood” belt loops, straight side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Slim double-ridged dark leather belt with small single-prong buckle
  • Dark leather squared moc-toe 2-eyelet derby shoes
  • Dark socks
  • Dark leather shoulder holster with cross-torso strap
  • Camel single-breasted overcoat with fly front, set-in sleeves with cuffs, and vertical welted pockets
  • Tortoise round-framed sunglasses

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

We go together, Laurie. I don’t know why. Maybe like guns and ammunition go together.

Paul Newman’s Glenurquhart Plaid Suit in The Color of Money

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Paul Newman as "Fast Eddie" Felson in The Color of Money (1986)

Paul Newman as “Fast Eddie” Felson in The Color of Money (1986)

Vitals

Paul Newman as “Fast Eddie” Felson, liquor salesman and former pool hustler

Chicago, Spring 1986

Film: The Color of Money
Release Date: October 17, 1986
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Designer: Richard Bruno

Background

Today would have been the 95th birthday of Paul Newman, the acclaimed actor, philanthropist, entrepreneur and motorsports enthusiast. Over his legendary career that spanned more than half a century, Newman’s sole Academy Award for acting recognized his performance in The Color of Money (1986), in which he reprised the role of “Fast Eddie” Felson that he had originated on screen in The Hustler (1961). Now, a generation later, Newman’s pool-playing Eddie has matured from a swaggering novice into a somewhat wiser but still snarky bourbon peddler, staking young pool hustlers on the side like cokehead Julian (John Turturro). It takes another hotshot virtuoso who actually reminds him of his younger self, the “incredible flake” Vincent Lauria (Tom Cruise), for Eddie to assume the role of full-time mentor as he takes the immature Vincent under his wing… while also teaching Vincent’s more streetwise girlfriend Carmen (Mary Elizabeth Mastrantonio) a thing or two about managing pool hustlers:

See, if you know that, you know when to say “yes”, you know when to say “no”… everybody goes home in a limousine.

Though some of his most iconic work was still ahead of him, The Color of Money is decidedly a change of pace in director Martin Scorsese’s canon. Scorsese himself said that the movie was less of a personal experience than most of his other work, though he was proud of his ability to direct a mainstream studio picture that was finished under budget and not only on time but ahead of schedule. Scorsese was brought on to direct at Newman’s insistence after the actor had been impressed by how Scorsese directed Raging Bull. (Perhaps giving some credos to the “butterfly effect” is the fact that, while shooting on location in Chicago, Scorsese read a review of Nicholas Pileggi’s book Wiseguy, the source material for what would be Scorsese’s arguably best-known film, Goodfellas.)

Under Scorsese’s direction—including his memorable note for Newman to “try not to be funny”—Newman received his seventh Academy Award nomination for acting, and it was The Color of Money that finally yielded the actor his elusive win. He would go on to be nominated twice more for acting Oscars, making him tied with Al Pacino and Spencer Tracy for the third most nominated male actor, behind only Jack Nicholson and Laurence Olivier.

What’d He Wear?

Paul Newman’s glen plaid suit for his introduction at the start of The Color of Money has become a favorite among fans of the actor and has been the subject of frequent requests from BAMF Style readers like Ryan and Chris (this one’s for you guys!) It’s been oft reported that Newman was a proud customer of H. Huntsman & Sons, the venerated Savile Row tailor who also dressed stars like Bing Crosby, Clark Gable, Rex Harrison, Laurence Olivier, and Gregory Peck, though I haven’t found any confirmation that Huntsman was responsible for any of Newman’s wardrobe in The Color of Money.

Less questioned is the costume designer responsible for so effectively crafting the looks of everyone in Eddie Felson’s orbit in The Color of Money. After graduating from the cheap bikini beach movies of the ’60s to contributing to ’70s classics like Chinatown, Heaven Can Wait, and Two-Lane Blacktop, and The Way We Were, Richard Bruno began a long-lasting association with Martin Scorsese that culminated with his BAFTA-winning work as costume designer on GoodfellasThe Color of Money reunited Bruno with Paul Newman, with whom he’d previously worked as the wardrobe supervisor in The Drowning Pool, also a rare sequel in Newman’s filmography.

A quarter century after we last saw Eddie Felson, the one-time pool shark seems to be doing well for himself in the liquor market. Defying Bert Gordon’s command from the end of The Hustler, he’s still hanging out in pool halls, staking small-time players while pushing his product on bartenders and blondes alike. He’s dressed for casual comfort in a tasteful two-piece suit with a black knit long-sleeve shirt, the worsted wool suit finely woven in a black and white glen plaid, patterned with a subtle light blue windowpane overcheck that—per Alan Flusser’s definition—elevates the suit into glenurquhart plaid territory.

Eddie works his charm on Carmen.

Eddie works his charm on Carmen.

Fast Eddie rotates through several suits during The Color of Money, including a medium gray birdseye suit, a navy pinstripe suit, another dark blue striped suit, and a dark charcoal suit. All are similarly tailored and styled like this glen plaid suit.

The single-breasted suit jacket has wide, padded shoulders and notch lapels that cleanly roll to the top of two buttons that meet the top of Newman’s trousers. The ventless jacket has a welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, and four-button cuffs.

Eddie attempts to buy his way out of his loose partnership with Carmen and Vincent.

Eddie attempts to buy his way out of his loose partnership with Carmen and Vincent.

Production photo of Paul Newman in The Color of Money. Note that his trousers are indisputably part of his glenurquhart plaid suit from the opening scnee.

Production photo of Paul Newman in The Color of Money. Note that his pleated trousers are indisputably part of his glenurquhart plaid suit from the opening scnee.

The suit’s matching trousers have a lower rise, consistent with both the fashions of the mid-1980s and Eddie’s casual demeanor. They have double sets of reverse-facing pleats, jetted side pockets with a gentle slant forward, and jetted back pockets with a button to close through the left. The trouser bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Trouser pleats are among the more cyclical elements of men’s style, weaving in and out of vogue over the last century. Pleats were first popular during the so-called “golden age of menswear” from the 1930s through the 1950s, though some material shortages during the Depression and World War II found tailors outfitting their customers in flat front styles. While Sean Connery’s James Bond still wore pleated trousers through the ’60s, the style was increasingly losing favor until pleats were decidedly passé by the 1970s. The following decade saw the rise of the “power suit” and looser fits to counter the skin-tight trousers from the preceding disco era, which brings us to the mid-’80s and the flatteringly full fit of Newman’s pleated trousers in The Color of Money.

Best seen when he wears the suit trousers orphaned with a loosened tie, Eddie wears a black leather belt through the trouser loops that fastens in the front via a dulled silver-toned rectangular box-frame buckle. In this instance, he’s working with Carmen to manipulate Vincent into agreeing to join them for a road tour before the 9-Ball Classic that spring in Atlantic City.

We’re not sure of the occasion, but he’s wearing a light blue cotton shirt with a point collar, unbuttoned at the neck, with a front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs that he wears unfastened and rolled up his forearms. The French blue silk tie, knotted in a loosened Windsor, is patterned with a field of burgundy drops, each accented with a white dot in the center.

Eddie takes a seat behind Carmen, ignoring his usual player Julian in favor of the newly arrived Vincent Lauria.

Eddie takes a seat behind Carmen, ignoring his usual player Julian in favor of the newly arrived Vincent Lauria.

Eddie does himself a favor by sticking to a relatively tonal wardrobe of blue and gray suits, thus requiring no more than a single pair of shoes while on the road. He sports a pair of black calf wingtip oxford brogues, almost always worn with plain black socks.

THE COLOR OF MONEY

The black knit long-sleeved polo shirt he wears during the introductory scene in Chicago makes a brief re-appearance after his split from Vincent and Carmen. Eddie wears the shirt with his new tinted glasses and the suit trousers while honing his pool skills at Chalky’s on the way to A.C. The shirt has three black buttons at the top and ribbed cuffs and hem.

THE COLOR OF MONEY

The morning after Vincent disregards Eddie’s advice against the boastful champ Grady, Eddie comes to Vincent’s hotel room and calmly reclaims the Balabushka (in fact, a rebranded Joss N7 cue) then heads out to a pool hall to play against locals like Dud (Grady Matthews) and the seemingly affable young Amos (Forest Whitaker).

Dud: That’s all she wrote.
Eddie: (taking Dud’s money) Nice book, though.

Eddie wears the same glen plaid suit from the opening sequence, but with his go-to layered knitwear look of an open-necked shirt under a v-neck sweater. In this case, it’s a cream shirt with a point collar, front placket, and button cuffs worn with a maroon knit sweater vest that has a long-ribbed waist hem and shorter ribbing along the arm holes and the V-shaped neckline.

Production photo of Paul Newman in The Color of Money, as Eddie finds a surprising challenge in the friendly hustler Amos.

Production photo of Paul Newman in The Color of Money, as Eddie finds a surprising challenge in the friendly hustler Amos.

Eddie’s embarrassing losses to Amos send him into a frustrating spiral, though he sets out to improve himself with plenty of practice and a natty new pair of tinted glasses.

During the montage of Eddie finding his groove again, one vignette at Chalky’s features him in his shirt sleeves and dark burgundy suspenders as he defeats the legendary local pro Moselle. Eddie’s sky blue shirt with its point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and rolled-up button cuffs may be the same as he wore earlier with his tie.

Eddie opts for suspenders when playing against Moselle.

Eddie opts for suspenders when playing against Moselle.

But… getting back to those tinted glasses. After undergoing an eye test, Eddie begins wearing a pair of oversized gold frames with amber-gradient prescription lenses. “I like the glasses,” compliments his pal Orvis (Bill Cobbs), owner of Chalky’s, before he queues Eddie up to play Moselle. Vincent, too, can’t help but to comment “You got new glasses, they look good,” upon his reunion with Eddie in Atlantic City.

Then again, everyone better like them, they’re Cartier… specifically, the Cartier Vendome Santos frame, made of 18-karat gold with a platinum-plated finish according to Dylan Littlefield for Stylish Carry. Cartier introduced this distinctive frame in 1983, and they quickly shot to stardom as a status symbol for anyone with “fuck you money” in the ’80s, particularly materialistic movie villains like Michael Douglas’ Gordon Gekko in Wall Street and Christopher Walken’s Bond villain in A View to a Kill. (Though he may have a selfish streak, Eddie is hardly as greedy or evil as these Cartier-wearing contemporaries.)

THE COLOR OF MONEY

Paul Newman was famously a Rolex wearer in real life, with one of his Daytona chronographs—which had originally been a gift from his famous wife, Joanne Woodward—recently fetching a record-breaking $17.8 million in an October 2017 auction.

In The Color of Money, it isn’t a Daytona that Newman wears as Fast Eddie but rather a stainless steel Rolex Datejust. When the famous Swiss watchmaker introduced the new Oyster Perpetual Datejust model in 1945 to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, it was the first self-winding chronometer to boast a date window on the dial. The watch was launched with the also-new “Jubilee”-style five-piece link bracelet, so named to commemorate the celebratory occasion. In the decades since, the Rolex Datejust has been associated with leaders like Winston Churchill, Dwight Eisenhower, Martin Luther King, Jr., and Ronald Reagan, and U.S. Air Force combat pilots like Chuck Yeager, who was reportedly wearing one when he broke the sound barrier in 1947.

As identified by Rolex Magazine, Eddie’s Datejust has a 36mm case, silver dial, and stainless Jubilee bracelet.

Cartier and Rolex... liquor peddling seems to reward Eddie more than pool has.

Cartier and Rolex… liquor peddling seems to reward Eddie more than pool has.

While the Rolex on Eddie’s left wrist may be one of comparatively understated luxury, he flashes his wealth from the ring finger of his right hand where he rocks a large silver or white gold ring with a pavé-set diamond on an engraved band.

Evidently, Eddie's chunky shiner doesn't hamper his pool game.

Evidently, Eddie’s chunky shiner doesn’t hamper his pool game.

Only briefly glimpsed is Eddie’s additional jewelry, a gold necklace he wears under his shirts.

What to Imbibe

Color. Check the color. Dead giveaway, you know? It’s thick, you can almost feel it. Lay down, and just let it roll over you. That’s single malt. On the other hand, you got something like Old McDonnell. More like Young McDonnell, actually. Tastes like 6-year-old bonded.

Now a liquor peddler, Fast Eddie concludes these opening lines by offering a glass of Old McDonnell to Janelle (Helen Shaver), first instructing her to “smell this” before she takes a sip. “That’s good stuff,” she reports. “Yeah… very good stuff,” he confirms.

Eddie introduces Janelle to the virtues of the fictional Old McDonnell bourbon.

Eddie introduces Janelle to the virtues of the fictional Old McDonnell bourbon.

Unfortunately, it’s also fictional stuff, so don’t try looking for the vaulted Old McDonnell at your nearest liquor store. Luckily for any aspiring Fast Eddies, we also see him enjoying several real world bourbons, including J.T.S. Brown and Wild Turkey, almost always on the rocks… though I believe the latter bottle is confirmed by the bartender to be full of Old McDonnell.

“Bill, I’ll have another Drambuie and potato salad,” orders Dud (Grady Matthews), a friendly hillbilly pool player that Fast Eddie beats. “And, while you’re at it, give my friend Eddie here another J.T.S. Brown.”

The “J.T.S.” stands for John Thompson Street Brown, Jr., who evolved the wholesale liquor business he founded with half-brother George Garvin Brown into the J.T.S. Brown and Sons brand in 1855. After Prohibition ended, the J.T.S. Brown brand fell under the umbrella of the newly founded Heaven Hill. It arguably received its most prominent screen time as the whiskey of choice for Newman’s “Fast Eddie” Felson, both in The Hustler, where it’s served to him by Jake Lamotta, and again in The Color of Money.

While J.T.S. Brown appears to still be in limited production of both its 80 proof and 100 proof bottlings, it seems primarily relegated to the set dressing of period productions such as Magic City, where it is ordered by sleazy Florida senator Ned Sloat (Brett Rice) during the show’s first season.

Paul Newman as "Fast Eddie" Felson in The Color of Money (1986)

Paul Newman as “Fast Eddie” Felson in The Color of Money (1986)

How to Get the Look

The Color of Money introduces Paul Newman’s matured “Fast Eddie” Felson as a master of the elusive “classy casual” dress code, dressing down while dressing up in sharply tailored suits that he effectively pairs with knitwear, open-neck shirts, and only occasionally a necktie.

  • Black-and-white (with light blue overcheck) fine glenurquhart plaid worsted wool tailored suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button suit jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and ventless back
    • Double reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, gently slanted jetted side pockets, jetted back pockets (with button-through left), and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black knit long-sleeve polo shirt with 3-button top, ribbed cuffs, and ribbed hem
  • Black leather belt with dulled silver-toned rectangular box-frame buckle
  • Black calf leather wingtip oxford brogues
  • Black socks
  • White cotton V-neck short-sleeve undershirt
  • Silver or white gold engraved ring with pavé-set diamond
  • Rolex Datejust stainless steel watch with 36mm case, silver dial, and stainless Jubilee-style link bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. I also recommend reading Mike D’Angelo’s piece for The A.V. Club about the masterful opening scene and what it outlines about the movie to follow.

The Quote

I never kid about money.

Once Upon a Time in Hollywood: Leo’s Brown Leather Jacket

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Leonardo DiCaprio as Rick Dalton in Once Upon a Time... in Hollywood (2019)

Leonardo DiCaprio as Rick Dalton in Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood (2019)

Vitals

Leonardo DiCaprio as Rick Dalton, washed-up TV actor

Los Angeles, February 1969

Film: Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood
Release Date: July 26, 2019
Director: Quentin Tarantino
Costume Designer: Arianne Phillips

Background

Now that Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood has been released on video and streaming services, I wanted to get cracking on the much-requested to cover Arianne Phillips’ fantastic costume design that brought the end of the swinging ’60s to life. Phillips’ costume design is one of ten categories for which Once Upon a Time in Hollywood is a contender at the Academy Awards this Sunday, in addition to nominations for Best Picture, Best Director, Best Actor for Leonardo DiCaprio, and Best Supporting Actor for Brad Pitt.

As Pitt’s yellow Aloha shirt and jeans was already the subject of a BAMF Style “preview” post last summer (with a more robust post to come, I assure you!), I wanted to turn my attention to Rick Dalton, the fading star of TV westerns who’s forced to admit at the start of the movie:

It’s official, old buddy. I’m a has-been.

Given how intensely people have requested content from Quentin Tarantino’s ninth movie, I hosted an Instagram poll last where more than 500 of you voted for which of Rick Dalton’s signature leather jackets should receive the first BAMF Style post, with more than two-thirds of the vote leaning toward the brown leather jacket that he wears in the first “contemporary” scene of the movie, set 51 years ago this week on Saturday, February 8, 1969.

OUATIH

Full of swagger to mask his insecurity, Rick brings his stuntman and best friend Cliff Booth along as they stride into Musso & Frank Grill, an iconic Hollywood hotspot that would’ve been celebrating its 50th anniversary that year. The occasion is a meeting with Marvin Schwarz (Al Pacino), the flamboyant talent agent and recent Rick Dalton superfan who dedicates himself to putting the star of Bounty Law back on the map with a series of the “spaghetti Westerns” that catapulted Clint Eastwood to superstardom earlier in the decade.

What’d He Wear?

Promotional photo of Brad Pitt, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Margot Robbie in costume for Once Upon a Time... in Hollywood.

Promotional photo of Brad Pitt, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Margot Robbie in Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood.

There’s little surprise that Arianne Phillips’ vibrant costume design in Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood has earned her accolades and nominations from the Academy Awards, BAFTAs, Chicago Film Critics Association, Critics’ Choice Awards, Hollywood Film Critics Association, and many more, with interest abuzz from fans ever since Leonardo DiCaprio posted a photo of he and Brad Pitt in their respective costumes on his Instagram profile in June 2018, more than a year before the movie’s release.

In the months to follow with more images and clips steadily being released by the production leading up to the release, fans were clamoring to hear not just from the director and stars but also from the production and costume design teams. In a July 2019 interview with The Hollywood Reporter‘s Cathy Whitlock, Phillips shared that:

Since DiCaprio’s character is a 1950s Western actor, his turtlenecks and leather jackets were “browns, oranges and mustards,” the designer says, while Pitt was clad in Hawaiian shirts, aviators and “denim, part of the 1960s youth culture.”

Rick Dalton’s color scheme becomes quite evident the first time we ever see him in color, riding alongside his loyal pal in his cream-colored Cadillac sporting brown leather jacket and boots with underpinnings in tonal shades that nod toward orange and gold.

While the energetic agent Marvin Schwarz jumps from the screen in his vibrant blues, Rick Dalton almost blends into the Musso & Frank atmosphere in his brown leather that matches the paneling.

While the energetic agent Marvin Schwarz jumps from the screen in his vibrant blues, Rick Dalton almost blends into the Musso & Frank atmosphere in his brown leather that matches the paneling. It’s perhaps significant that Marvin and Cliff Booth, who would both be responsible for Rick’s eventual comeback success, are both clad in eye-popping blue “suits” (though Cliff’s is made of denim) as they each take their turns providing Rick with their own means of support during this sequence.

Rick’s vintage brown leather jacket combines car coat styling with the shorter, tailored fit of a blouson-style flight jacket. The wide collar with its deep and narrow “V”-shaped notch resembles the wool serge M-44 “Ike” jackets worn by U.S. Army officers during World War II. The front closes with four leather-covered buttons, though in Rick’s distress as he leaves the restaurant, he only fastens the second button down. The cuffs are plain—devoid of buttons, zips, or straps—but are reinforced with wide pieces of leather that are shaped with a gradual point that meets the seam running down each sleeve.

All of the seams are double-stitched, including the collar edges, the wide placket-like panels flanking the four center buttons, and the horizontal yoke that extends across the chest just below the top button and above the two patch chest pockets, which are also double-stitched on the edges and along the pointed flaps that are each fastened with a single leather-covered button.

Production photo of Leonardo DiCaprio and Brad Pitt in Once Upon a Time... in Hollywood.

Production photo of Leonardo DiCaprio and Brad Pitt in Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood.

Under his jacket, Rick wears a tonally coordinated mock-neck long-sleeved jumper in a rust brown lightweight ribbed-knit material, possibly merino wool or an acrylic blend. I’ve been able to find a few modern alternatives, including:

  • Parisbonbon pullover with the same color and style, made from expensive cashmere (via Amazon)
  • A much cheaper but tanner cotton/acrylic version from Insearch (also via Amazon)
  • Likely the best match, though a bit more burgundy than brown in “plum” merino wool from the Jos. A. Bank Traveler Collection (via Jos. A. Bank)

Over his shirts, Rick wears a small gold pendant monogrammed with the initial “R” on a thin gold chain, which Phillips explained—to Fawnia Soo Hoo for Fashionista—was custom-made by jewelry designer Stuart England:

That gold pendant was custom-made for our film by a wonderful jewelry designer Stuart England. Stuart makes these wonderful medallions and pendants. I wanted to use his work for a long time in films. I almost did in ‘Kingsman: The Golden Circle.’ I just felt like Rick should have some kind of masculine jewelry and Steve McQueen was famously photographed with a medallion and I always loved that. I always thought it was sexy. So I thought Rick needed one, and Leo and Quentin responded to it. It actually is monogrammed with a little ‘R’ on it.

Phillips also explained to Haleigh Foutch of Collider in a December 2019 interview that the reverse of Rick’s necklace was etched with a Tudor rose-inspired design.

OUATIH

The distinctive Wrangler branding on the back right seam of Leonardo DiCaprio's costume trousers can be seen as he converses on set with Quentin Tarantino.

The distinctive Wrangler branding on the back right seam of Leonardo DiCaprio’s costume trousers can be seen as he converses on set with Quentin Tarantino.

Rick wears a pair of light fawn casual pants made from a polyester twill that allows some stretch. They are styled like jeans with frogmouth front pockets (but no coin pocket) and patch back pockets. Perhaps in solidarity with Cliff, who wears a Wrangler trucker jacket in these scenes, Rick’s trousers are also a Wrangler product, identifiable by the small black patch with “Wrangler” in yellow text, stitched on the horizontal seam across the seat just above the back right pocket. Unlike modern Wrangler jeans, these back pockets lack the “W”-branded stitching and leather patches.

Though Wrangler is still around (and thriving), this particular style of pants has been mostly discontinued, though vintage examples exist via eBay, Etsy, and other outlets. (For example, these khaki polyester Wrangler jeans of 1970s vintage—found on Etsy—appear to be a near-perfect match for Rick Dalton’s trousers in these scenes.)

Rick’s jacket and untucked jumper cover his waistline, but he appears to be wearing the same dark brown leather belt with its monogrammed gold-and-silver single-prong oversized buckle that gets more prominent screen time with his orange leather blazer, tucked-in mustard yellow turtleneck, and brown slacks.

Leaning into his Western roles and his rural Missouri roots, Rick wears cowboy boots constructed of a dark brown leather with ribbing on the vamps and decorative stitching up the shafts.

“You can really tell the difference between Cliff Booth and Rick Dalton by their shoes,” Phillips explained in the aforementioned Collider profile. “If you imagine the feeling of wearing cowboy boots it makes you feel like a badass, right? Tough, strong, protected. And it’s a pair of boots he probably would have worn on Bounty Law or Lancer, so it’s a part of his persona… Quentin had a lot of ideas about his day wear as Rick Dalton, that maybe he took them off the wardrobe people from the set because he was too lazy to buy himself clothes.”

Rick steps out of his Caddy, pounding his discarded cigarette butts with his cowboy boots.

Rick steps out of his Caddy, pounding his discarded cigarette butts with his cowboy boots.

As opposed to Cliff Booth’s more distinctive (and slightly anachronistic) “bullhead” Citizen watch on its unique custom bund strap by Red Monkey Designs, Rick Dalton wears a more subdued classic timepiece that has been identified by Esquire Middle East as a Chopard Classic with a 36mm 18-carat yellow gold case, mechanical manual-winding movement, and brown alligator leather strap that closes on a gold-covered steel buckle. The watch has a round white dial with gilded hour markers with Roman numerals at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. (See more of the Chopard Classic collection here.)

Rick’s right pinky is adorned with a chunky gold lion pinky ring that was created in collaboration with property master Chris Call, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Quentin Tarantino. It’s perhaps no coincidence that “Leo”, both the real-life actor’s nickname and an astrological sign often associated with stardom, is the Latin word for “lion, making the king of the beats a particularly appropriate motif for Rick Dalton’s jewelry.

OUATIH

Ashamed to be crying in the Musso & Frank parking lot, Rick dons Cliff’s helpfully offered sunglasses, a pair of gold-framed aviators with amber-tinted lenses. Rick wears them for the entirety of his ride home with Cliff, even after he is re-energized upon realizing that Roman Polanski lives next door to him on Cielo Drive.

“So you’re feelin’ better now?” asks Cliff. “Gimme my glasses back!”

Rick takes a closer look at his next-door neighbors.

Rick takes a closer look at his next-door neighbors.

Given Brad Pitt’s longstanding real-life preference for Oliver Peoples sunglasses, it’s possible that these on-screen aviators are an OP product, though they may also be a true vintage pair.

Seeking an alternative? See below:

  • J+S Premium Classic Aviator with gold 58mm frame and brown lenses (Amazon, $16.99)
  • Ray-Ban RB3025 Aviator with gold 58mm frame and crystal brown “classic” lenses (Amazon or Ray-Ban, $153)

What to Imbibe

“Eight fucking whiskey sours… I couldn’t stop at fucking three or four. I have eight!” Rick chastises himself the next day in his trailer on the set of Lancer, providing a likely answer to what we see poured in his glass—and garnished with a maraschino cherry—at Musso & Frank Grill.

Cliff and Rick enjoy their respective drinks—a Bloody Mary for the stuntman and a Whiskey Sour for the actor—at Musso & Frank.

Cliff and Rick enjoy their respective drinks—a Bloody Mary for the stuntman and a Whiskey Sour for the actor—at Musso & Frank.

I was a little surprised that Rick blamed the whiskey sours and not the abhorrent Scotch-and-raw-egg concoction we see him making later that evening and drinking from a massive beer stein. Then again, the whiskey sour is the only cocktail I’d ever had honest-to-god nightmares about (thanks to the events of January 13, 2012, which centered around a cheap bar that believed in sours mix over more traditional ingredients) so I can sympathize with Rick.

According to Wikipedia, the whiskey sour would have been nearly a century old by the time Rick downed his cursed eight cocktails, having been first mentioned in print by the Waukesha Plain Dealer newspaper in January 1870. “Unlike other nineteenth-century drinks that appealed exclusively to high society, the whiskey sour was modeled after the maritime grogs of the 1870s,” writes Aliza Kelly Faragher in The Mixology of Astrology, associating the drink with Aquarians. “Sailors would drink citrus-infused elixirs (‘sours’) to combat waterborne disease.”

To make a whiskey sour in a manner that won’t encourage nightmares or embarrassing acting mishaps (and may just succeed in combating waterborne disease!), I suggest the following from The Gentleman’s Guide to Cocktails by Alfred Tong:

Ingredients

  • 50 mL (2 oz) bourbon whiskey
  • 2 dashes of Angostura bitters
  • 1 tablespoon cherry juice
  • 50 mL (2 oz) lemon juice, freshly squeezed
  • 50 mL (2 oz) sugar syrup (or to taste)

Method

Add the ingredients to an ice-filled shaker. Shake hard and strain into a tumbler full of ice.

The Mr. Boston Official Bartender’s Guide suggests a simpler method, shaking and straining 2 oz of whiskey, 1 oz of lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon of either superfine sugar or simple syrup into a chilled sour glass, then garnishing with a half-slice of lemon and a maraschino cherry.

If that really is a Whiskey Sour that Rick is drinking, the bartender left out the lemon slice.

If that really is a Whiskey Sour that Rick is drinking, the bartender left out the lemon slice.

How to Get the Look

Leonardo DiCaprio as Rick Dalton in Once Upon a Time... in Hollywood (2019)

Leonardo DiCaprio as Rick Dalton in Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood (2019)

A celebrity known for his roles in Westerns, Rick Dalton adds a cowboy-inspired touch to the classic Hollywood casual ensemble of a leather jacket and boots.

  • Brown leather hip-length vintage jacket with wide, narrow-notched collar, four leather-covered buttons, two vertical-split chest pockets (with pointed, single-button flaps), and plain cuffs with ornamental stitching
  • Rust brown ribbed-knit merino wool mock-neck long-sleeve jumper
  • Fawn-colored polyester twill vintage Wrangler jeans with belt loops, frogmouth front pockets, patch back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark brown leather belt with oversized gold single-prong fitting and silver “R”-monogrammed extension
  • Dark brown leather cowboy boots with ribbed vamps and decorative-stitched shafts
  • Gold “R”-monogrammed/Tudor rose pendant on thin gold necklace
  • Gold chunky lion-motif pinky ring
  • Chopard Classic 18-carat yellow gold wristwatch with round white dial on brown textured leather strap
  • Gold-framed aviator sunglasses with amber-tinted lenses

As seen with most popular stylish movies, replicas of dubious quality quickly abounded for those seeking Rick Dalton’s jacket. The best bet for fans would likely be to seek something vintage that is more unique for their own personalities, but anyone hell-bent on replicas can find a few here:

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

If you were one of the 174 who voted for Rick’s orange Western-themed leather blazer as the topic of this post, have no fear… that post will be here before the summer!

The Quote

If comin’ face-to-face with the failure that is your career ain’t worth cryin’ about, then I don’t know what the fuck is!


Lassiter: Tom Selleck’s Tweed Jacket

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Tom Selleck as Nick Lassiter in Lassiter (1984)

Tom Selleck as Nick Lassiter in Lassiter (1984)

Vitals

Tom Selleck as Nick Lassiter, debonair jewel thief

London, June 1939

Film: Lassiter
Release Date: February 17, 1984
Director: Roger Young
Costume Designer: Barbara Lane

Background

While we’re still in the midst of tweed-friendly weather, I’d like to respond to a few requests I’ve had to focus on Tom Selleck’s gentlemanly style in Lassiter as an American thief in England, a far cry from the Aloha shirts he was famously wearing on Magnum, P.I. at the same time.

Released today in 1984, Lassiter starred Selleck as the titular jewel thief—Nick Lassiter—crafted in the daring and debonair tradition of cinematic cat burglars like Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief and David Niven’s “Phantom” in The Pink Panther. Much like his previous film, High Road to China, this movie compensated for the fact that Selleck had to pass on the role of Indiana Jones by giving him the role of a charismatic, resourceful, and risk-averse rogue facing danger from under the brim of a fedora in the years leading up to World War II.

The morning after a successful jewel theft, Lassiter is cornered by London policemen as he leaves his girlfriend Sara’s home and ushered to police headquarters, where he is swiftly fingered in a lineup and learns that he is being framed for a crime that may get him a life sentence… though Inspector John Becker (Bob Hoskins) hasn’t yet decided what the crime should be. Nervy FBI agent Peter Breeze (Joe Regalbuto) briefs Lassiter on his potential assignment, stealing $10 million of the $50 million in unset diamonds that Nazi Germany took from Czechoslovakia to finance espionage operations throughout Europe and South America. Forced to accept or else yield his freedom, Lassiter agrees and finds himself surveilling the German embassy where he encounters Kari Von Fursten (Lauren Hutton), the “wild” consular agent-turned-Nazi-assassin who specializes in dispatching her victims with a sharp object mid-coitus, not unlike Sharon Stone’s Catherine Trammell in Basic Instinct nearly a decade later.

I hadn’t heard of Lassiter before I started writing BAMF Style, and I was delighted that a number of commenters turned me onto this movie, a combination of Indiana Jones, The Sting, and To Catch a Thief, with a twist of James Bond, all set in London on the eve of World War II.

What’d He Wear?

Lassiter leaves Sara’s flat in a period-detailed tweed sport jacket with a checked shirt and knitted tie, a fine country combination that no doubt would have made the American considerably look out of place on the city streets of prewar London with its rigidly enforced business dress codes.

Loosening his collar and tie after a lineup, Lassiter looks considerably more laidback than the FBI agent sent to draft him into espionage.

Loosening his collar and tie after a lineup, Lassiter looks considerably more laidback than the FBI agent sent to draft him into espionage.

Lassiter’s fawn-colored Donegal tweed sports coat has a 3/2-roll single-breasted front and sleeves finished with three-button cuffs. The jacket has three sporty patch pockets: one on the left breast and two large ones on the hips, each with a horizontal a few inches from the top. The back is split with a long single vent, extending up to Selleck’s natural waist where a full belt extends across the back of the jacket.

Lassiter should've known he couldn't go three steps on a London sidewalk wearing a tweed jacket without actually being arrested for it. These guys certainly take their "no brown in town" maxim seriously!

Lassiter should’ve known he couldn’t go three steps on a London sidewalk wearing a tweed jacket without actually being arrested for it. These guys certainly take their “no brown in town” maxim seriously!

Lassiter coordinates the bucolic informality of his tweed sports coat with a checked shirt and a taupe brown knitted silk tie, knotted in a tight four-in-hand.

The mint green shirt with its brown windowpane check overlaid on a fainter white grid check appears to be the same shirt that he would wear with his tweed casual blouson jacket during the film’s finale. This shirt has a point collar, front placket, and single-button rounded cuffs.

LASSITER

Lassiter’s khaki gabardine trousers bring tonal harmony to the outfit, just a few shades away from the jacket but enough of a textural contrast that his outfit doesn’t look like a mismatched suit. The lower rise of these double forward-pleated trousers are more appropriate for the 1980s than the 1930s, though Lassiter’s laidback demeanor—as well as the rough start to his day—could also account for him letting his trousers slouch a bit.

The trousers have straight pockets along the side seams, button-through back pockets, and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms and are worn with a dark brown leather belt that closes through a gold-toned squared single-prong buckle.

LASSITER

If you’re going to wear such a country-friendly outfit, you may as well go all out. After all, a brown tweed jacket and knitted tie may look out of place on the streets of London, but the same outfit worn with black calf oxfords? Don’t even think about it… he wisely saves those for his dinner jackets and his dark navy chalk-striped double-breasted suit.

From the context of the rest of this outfit, Lassiter gets the color and the cloth right when he steps out in a pair of dark cocoa brown suede lace-up shoes, likely the same suede oxfords he later wears with his gray tweed suit.

LASSITER

Our hero completes his look with a taupe felt fedora, sharply pinched on the crown, self-edged, and banded in a wide strip of brown ribbed grosgrain silk, neatly bowed on the left side.

Indiana who?

Indiana who?

Lassiter wears the jacket again a few days later during an argument with Sara (Jane Seymour) in her flat, intentionally loud enough to be overheard by the two Scotland Yard detectives staking out the apartment next door. He adds the layer of a light gray cotton knit long-sleeved V-neck sweater (or jumper, as his British acquaintances would call it.)

LASSITER

In this scene, Lassiter wears another knitted silk tie—this time in hunter green—with a slightly more urban-friendly shirt, white with a light gray mini-grid check. The shirt has button cuffs and a tab collar that fastens with a small button under the tie knot.

LASSITER

We get only a brief glimpse at Lassiter’s watch, a gold dress watch considerably more subtle than the dive watches that Magnum, P.I. audiences were used to seeing Selleck wear. The square-cased watch is strapped to his wrist on a gold expanding bracelet.

Lassiter's gold watch flashes from his left wrist as he slides into the back of a police car.

Lassiter’s gold watch flashes from his left wrist as he slides into the back of a police car.

How to Get the Look

Tom Selleck as Nick Lassiter in Lassiter (1984)

Tom Selleck as Nick Lassiter in Lassiter (1984)

Tom Selleck’s gentleman thief hits the streets of prewar London in a country-friendly outfit—from his tweed jacket and checked shirt to knitted tie and suede shoes—that transcends Lassiter‘s 1939 setting and would look just as stylish more than 80 years later… though I’d suggest a less urban setting for such a ruggedly textured kit.

  • Fawn-colored Donegal tweed single-breasted 3/2-roll sport jacket with notch lapels, patch pockets, 3-button cuffs, and full-belted back with long single vent
  • Mint green brown/white-grid check shirt with point collar, front placket, and 1-button rounded cuffs
  • Taupe brown knitted silk tie
  • Khaki gabardine double forward-pleated trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, button-through back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Dark brown leather belt with gold-toned squared single-prong buckle
  • Dark brown suede oxford shoes
  • Taupe felt fedora with brown grosgrain silk band
  • Gold square-cased dress watch on gold expanding bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

I’m standing in a frame, Breeze, you’re gonna wrap me in a flag too?

Rod Taylor’s Baracuta Jacket in The Glass Bottom Boat

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Rod Taylor as Bruce Templeton in The Glass Bottom Boat (1966)

Rod Taylor as Bruce Templeton in The Glass Bottom Boat (1966)

Vitals

Rod Taylor as Bruce Templeton, charismatic aerospace lab chief

Long Beach, California, Spring 1966

Film: The Glass Bottom Boat
Release Date: June 9, 1966
Director: Frank Tashlin
Costume Designer: Ray Aghayan (credited with Doris Day’s costumes only)

Background

In the years since I’ve started this blog, I’ve discovered that there are many unsung “style heroes” that are often lost in the discussion of Cary Grant, Clark Gable, and Steve McQueen, including actors like Rod Taylor who brought understated elegance to flatteringly tailored suits and timeless casual attire alike.

I was first familiar with Taylor in The Glass Bottom Boat, one of my grandma’s favorite movies and one that we used to watch until we wore the VHS tape thin. Last year, I was delighted to see that my friends Shawn Bongiorno and Ryan Hall had collaborated on a series of Instagram posts that highlighted a look from the movie, and that inspired us to put our heads together and take a deeper dive at a springtime essential that Taylor wears.

Rewatching The Glass Bottom Boat two decades after those weekends at Grandma’s house, the plot holds up as one of the better and funnier of Doris Day’s filmography from the era, a romantic comedy infused with space age style and wit from some of the most talented and recognizable comedic actors of the era like Dom DeLuise, Paul Lynde, Dick Martin, John McGiver, and Alice Peace. The plot centers around a flirtation between “space wizard” Bruce Templeton (Taylor) and his aerospace research lab’s latest PR fire, Jennifer Nelson (Day). He assigns her the secret—and ultimately fictional—Project Venus, ostensibly tasking her with writing his biography when it’s really just the researcher’s way of spending more time with the “kooky” young widow while conducting work like overseeing an evening test launch from his Long Beach lab.

What’d He Wear?

Taking a break from his natty tailored wear that includes business suits, blazers, and sport jackets, Bruce dons a beige Baracuta G9 blouson for his nighttime research. This was 1966, the same year that Frank Sinatra wore his own beige and navy Baracutas in Assault on a Queen and around the same time that Ryan O’Neal’s character Rodney Harrington popularized the jacket on Peyton Place, establishing the garment’s unofficial sobriquet as the “Harrington jacket.”

The British company Baracuta had introduced its cotton gabardine double-zip windbreaker in the 1930s, marketed for the golf course (hence the “G” in G9) though it soon found favor as a comfortable weather-proof style staple and inspired scores of copycats, particularly after the brand began exporting the G9 to the United States in 1954. Once the G9 went stateside and found fans among icons like Elvis Presley and Steve McQueen, there was no stopping its rise in popularity. (You can read more about the G9’s history at the official Baracuta website.)

In addition to the classic two-button standing collar, knit cuffs and hem, and slanted hand pockets with single-button flaps, Taylor’s raglan-sleeve Harrington jacket is clearly lined with Baracuta’s distinctive Fraser tartan plaid in red, green, navy, and white which had been approved by Lord Fraser shortly after the jacket’s 1937 introduction.

Bruce's unzipped Harrington jacket reveals the Fraser tartan plaid lining characteristic to true Baracuta jackets.

Bruce’s unzipped Harrington jacket reveals the Fraser tartan plaid lining characteristic to true Baracuta jackets.

More than 80 years after their introduction, Baracuta continues to offer the G9 in a continually increasing range of colors and fabrics, from a Rebel Without a Cause-inspired red to a warmer corduroy. The standard shell has evolved from its original cotton gabardine construction to a weatherproof blend of 50% cotton and 50% polyester as well as a breathable Coolmax® lining in a 65% cotton, 35% polyester blend.

“The Harrington jacket has to be my favorite casual jacket of all time,” my friend Ryan told me. “My earliest memories of the Harrington has to be the beige Merc brand Harrington worn by my grandfather when I was a child, my grandfather was born in 1932, around the same time as Rod Taylor and Steve McQueen,  so it is only natural that he would be drawn to the iconic jacket that was featured in so many films and television shows during the 1960s.”

Interested shoppers can find the classic Baracuta still available in addition to several other variations on the Harrington from reputable outfitters including Merc, the company that made the jacket worn by Ryan’s grandfather:

  • Baracuta G9 in “natural” cotton/polyester (via Amazon or Baracuta)
  • Ben Nevis Combat Harrington in beige polyester/cotton (via Ben Nevis)
  • Ben Sherman Core Harrington in sand cotton (via Amazon or Ben Sherman)
  • Farah Hardy Jacket in light sand cotton (via Farah Clothing)
  • Fred Perry Check Lined Harrington in dark stone cotton (via Fred Perry)
  • Grenfell Harrington in peached beige cotton (via Grenfell)
  • Jump the Gun Harrington Raglan in beige cotton (via Jump the Gun)
  • Lacoste Men’s Cotton Twill Jacket in beige cotton (via Amazon or Lacoste)
  • Lyle & Scott Harrington in beige cotton (via Amazon)
  • Merc Harrington in beige cotton/polyester (via Merc Clothing)
  • Orvis Weatherbreaker in British tan nylon/cotton (via Amazon or Orvis)
  • Peter Christian Harrington in sand cotton/polyester (via Peter Christian Outfitters)
  • Private White V.C. “The Ventile” Harrington in sand cotton (via Private White V.C.)
  • Tootal Modern Classic Harrington in beige cotton (via Tootal)

Taylor wears a light blue polo shirt with a long three-button top that extends down to mid-chest, and he wears all three of the widely spaced buttons undone. Bruce Templeton evidently keeps a few light blue pocket polos in his collection as he also wears a similarly colored short-sleeve polo later in the film for a laidback night lounging at home with Jennifer, though that polo shirt is a richer sky blue and only has a two-button opening as opposed to the three-button polo he wears with the Baracuta jacket.

THE GLASS BOTTOM BOAT

Bruce wears dark gray trousers with a fit over his hips that suggests a darted front, the less-celebrated but certainly effective alternative to pleats or a traditional “flat front”. He wears the trousers with no belt, instead fastened around his waist with an extended square-ended tab that closes through a single button.

Assuming that these are the same trousers he later wears with his navy blazer, they would also have belt loops, front pockets but no back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms.

Bruce hands Jennifer a hard hat before the testing commences.

Bruce hands Jennifer a hard hat before the testing commences.

Bruce’s wristwatch throughout The Glass Bottom Boat is a slim gold dress watch with a gold dial and flat gold bracelet, concealed by the ribbed cuff on his jacket’s left sleeve for this particular sequence.

The scene’s brief opening shot suggests that Bruce wears the same black leather side-gusset loafers that he wears with his suits at work. Despite his vast wealth and wardrobe—Bruce tends to wear these same shoes with everything, though it would appeal to his sense of practicality to have one pair of shoes that he can effectively wear with Harrington jackets, dinner jackets, and everything in between. Though American businessmen led the way in de-formalizing office wear in mid-century, slip-on shoes grew increasingly fashionable for men around the world to wear with lounge suits against the gradually less formal backdrop of the 1960s professional world.

Jennifer and Bruce's "meet cute" earlier in the movie when he pulled her stuck heel from a vibrating grate. He would wear thees same side-gusset loafers with essentially all of his on-screen wardrobe.

Jennifer and Bruce’s “meet cute” earlier in the movie when he pulled her stuck heel from a vibrating grate. He would wear thees same side-gusset loafers with essentially all of his on-screen wardrobe.

Bruce isn’t the only Baracuta wearer in The Glass Bottom Boat. We very briefly see his helicopter pilot, Jim, sporting a navy Baracuta G9 with the distinctive Fraser Tartan lining as he waits for Bruce to join him in the passenger seat.

Jim wears a navy Baracuta G9 not unlike Steve McQueen wore in The Thomas Crown Affair.

Jim wears a navy Baracuta G9 not unlike Steve McQueen wore in The Thomas Crown Affair.

I found fellow Harrington jacket enthusiasts in the aforementioned Shawn Bongiorno and Ryan Hall, fellow style bloggers with fantastic Instagram pages. Like me, Ryan’s Instagram account @IconicFilmStyle highlights menswear featured in movies and TV shows while Shawn’s page @shawn.michael.bongiorno showcases Shawn himself wearing many outfits inspired by cinematic icons like Steve McQueen or the James Bond actors that Ryan and I write about.

Ryan explained their collaboration to me, saying that “Shawn has an offical stone-colored Harrington from Baracuta very similar to Rod Taylor’s and Steve McQueen’s. Shawn’s style is casual and relaxed. He takes a classic staple and blends it with modern items, which is great.”

Shawn expanded both on his own Baracuta and how he was inspired to model it after how Rod Taylor wore his in The Glass Bottom Boat:

Shawn presents his updated take on the Baracuta and blue shirt.

Shawn presents his updated take on the Baracuta and blue shirt.

I got the Baracuta in Steve McQueen stone because it is iconic, like the Persol 714S, which were also popularized by McQueen. I learned about McQueen from his influence on how Daniel Craig as James Bond was dressed in Quantum of Solace. It was a revolutionary style to me and I fell in love with the simple elegance of it. I experiment a lot with understanding what my casual style is and is not. To me, the jacket is more on the rugged side of casual than the formal side, though it does have a sophisticated quality, but not so much that it can’t be paired with jeans.

Since I wear it exclusively with jeans, I would not likely pair it with a polo, because polos, for me, are best worn with shorts, unless the polo is knit or in some other way “unique”. The collar of a polo just emotes too much formality for me to pair one with jeans. Additionally, I don’t go for the preppy look, And a polo with a Harrington looks very preppy to me. I find the best shirt to pair a Harrington with is a T-shirt, because it brings out the rugged qualities of the Harrington and tones down its more sophisticated features.

I bought a Baracuta because it is the original. That’s something that I look for in every clothing purchase I make: history. I love the history of clothes, so I always tend toward the original manufacture of a garment, if available. That’s why I love pairing my Harrington with Persol 714S, Clarks original desert boots, and Sunspel T-Shirts (one of the original creators of the T-shirt, mind you). There is a heritage to these brands that match the heritage of the Baracuta, thus the look becomes inherently timeless and iconic.

For our recreation of the look from the movie, I relied completely on Ryan’s guidance, as I had never seen the movie or heard of Rod Taylor. I had the Baracuta on hand and I had a shirt in the right color from Orlebar Brown, my favorite clothing company and one of the pioneers of “resort wear.”

The look is probably not something I would go for with my own personal style, but I am willing to try anything once because you really don’t know how you feel about a look until you wear it out-and-about and you see how it makes you feel. I do, however, thank Ryan for bringing it to my attention, as it made me think about how I like to wear my Harrington; that is one of the things I love so much about our iconic film style collaborations.

And what encouraged Ryan to choose this look in the first place?

Being a huge classic film fan since I was a child, I was aware of how many iconic films the Harrington was worn in. I myself have a few Harringtons of various brands and colors, black and navy being the stand outs for me as I think I look better in darker, cooler colors rather then the lighter beige, tan, and stone. I’d been influenced to wear a Harrington by Steve McQueen with his navy Baracuta in The Thomas Crown Affair, a film I first saw when I was 12, and Daniel Craig’s dark navy Tom Ford Harrington in his second Bond film, Quantum of Solace.

I think it is important to take classic menswear items—especially ones made famous by iconic film stars—and make them your own… as not many of us are as naturally cool as Steve McQueen. Being comfortable and developing your own style is more important then trying to directly emulate these film stars directly.

How to Get the Look

Rod Taylor as Bruce Templeton in The Glass Bottom Boat (1966)

Rod Taylor as Bruce Templeton in The Glass Bottom Boat (1966)

In The Glass Bottom Boat, Rod Taylor illustrates the stylish staying power of simple essentials like a neutral-colored Harrington jacket, light blue shirt, and gray slacks, an ensemble that worked as well more than half a century ago as it does when worn by sharp dressers like Shawn today.

  • Beige waterproof cotton Baracuta G9 zip-up blouson-style windbreaker with two-button standing collar, slanted hand pockets with single-button flaps, ribbed cuffs and hem, and red Fraser tartan plaid lining
  • Light blue short-sleeve polo shirt with three-button top and breast pocket
  • Dark gray darted-front trousers with belt loops, front pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black calf leather side-gusset loafers
  • Thin gold wristwatch with gold dial on flat gold bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Who could sleep when you’re plotting a rendezvous with Venus?

Don Draper’s Light Gray Thin-Striped Suit

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Jon Hamm as Don Draper in "5G", Episode 1.05 of Mad Men.

Jon Hamm as Don Draper in “5G”, Episode 1.05 of Mad Men.

Vitals

Jon Hamm as Don Draper, mysterious advertising creative director

New York City, Spring 1960 and 1962

Series: Mad Men
Episodes:
– “5G” (Episode 1.05), dir. Lesli Linka Glatter, aired 8/16/2007
– “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07), dir. Tim Hunter, aired 8/30/2007
– “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05), dir. Jennifer Getzinger, aired 8/24/2008
Creator:
 Matthew Weiner
Costume Designer: Janie Bryant

Background

Happy birthday to Jon Hamm, born March 10, 1971, and arguably most famous for his Emmy-winning performance on AMC’s Mad Men as suave 1960s ad man Don Draper.

Donald Draper? What kinda name is that?

The appearance at Adam Whitman (Jay Paulson) in the series’ fifth episode, “5G”, adds credence to the brief moment two episodes earlier when the smooth operator we’d known as Don Draper is stopped on a train by an old Army pal who calls him “Dick Whitman”. After a brief glance around the train to ensure no one he recognizes is within earshot, Don acknowledges the man and continues with his day, albeit somewhat nonplussed that he hasn’t been able to outrun his past as quickly as he had hoped.

While “5G” is a more serious, high-stakes episode for Don, we get to see a more mischievous and admittedly petty side of the ad man two episodes later in “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07), one of my favorite episodes of the series.

Humiliated by his older colleague and frequent drinking buddy Roger Sterling (John Slattery) making a pass at Don’s wife, Don arranges an opportunity for him to turn the tables. Roger, assuming the two men have put bygones behind them, invites Don to the famous Grand Central Oyster Bar for the quintessential three-martini lunch, though the two men exchange more than their fair share of martinis, oysters, and even cheesecake. Don is sure to visibly keep pace with the swaggering older Roger: “I’ve always thought you were a man who could keep up, Don.”

Sure, a long lunch of martinis and oysters sounds fun... until you have to call the carpet cleaners.

Sure, a long lunch of martinis and oysters sounds fun… until you have to call the carpet cleaners.

When the two men return to the office in time for a meeting with the GOP to talk Dick Nixon’s 1960 election strategy, the elevator operator Hollis (La Monde Byrd)—a few extra greenbacks in his pocket thanks to an earlier arrangement with Don—informs them that the elevator is out of order. The two drunken, sweating ad men climb the 23 flights of stairs to the Sterling Cooper office, though the younger and considerably more fit Don makes a show of lighting a Lucky Strike during his ascent while the coughing, sputtering Roger claims he has lost his tie pin (which he wasn’t wearing) and hangs back to make his embarrassing final dash in solitude.

The duo finally reach the wood-paneled office and are duly introduced to their potential clients. Don may still be catching his breath, but he’s the vision of health compared to a pale Roger, sweat-stained through his three-piece suit, who staggers up to the men and makes his own introduction in the form of a seafood-flavored stream of vomit splashing onto the Grand Old Party’s pant legs.

Two years later, it’s Don whose drinking gets him into trouble when he’s out on the road with his latest mistress, Bobbie Barrett (Melinda McGraw), the domineering wife of an obnoxious comedian in Sterling Cooper’s employ. Don had spent his first interactions trying to resist the woman’s overtures but he finds himself weakening by the events of “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05), finding a particularly kindred spirit as she doles out the Draper-like advice: “This is America. Pick a job and then become the person that does it.”

A posed shot of the awkward Sardi's encounter in "The New Girl" (Episode 2.05). In the actual episode, Bobbie was seated across the table from Don rather than right next to him.

A posed shot of the awkward Sardi’s encounter in “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05). In the actual episode, Bobbie was seated across the table from Don rather than right next to him.

Any shot at bliss with this woman who also likes bridges and foreign films is ruined by an awkward reunion with Rachel Menken (Maggie Siff), now married to the bookish Tilden Katz, sending Don spiraling on an immediate path of self-destruction with Bobbie as cocktails at Sardi’s turns into passing the bottle behind the wheel of his Dodge, where her distracting ear-nibbling leads to the tipsy ad man totaling the sedan to the juxtaposing sounds of Percy Faith’s “Theme from A Summer Place“.

Fortunately for Don, this is 1962 and his blood alcohol content of .15%(!) is still within the legal limit and his only punishment is to pay a $150 fine. Unfortunately for Don, his $63 and “some subway tokens” aren’t enough to cover the fine—even in this more lenient of eras—and he has to call “an employee” to cover the remainder. When he picks up the phone, we aren’t yet sure who it’ll be. Roger Sterling? A trusted member of his creative team?

I’m sure that I wasn’t the only one surprised when Peggy Olson stepped into the station, considerably matured from the naive Brooklynite we met at the series’ outset and in the midst of her own romantic struggles. The mystery of why Peggy would drive out to Long Island in a car painstakingly borrowed from her brother-in-law with the $110 she could scrape together is soon solved with a flashback to a post-natal Peggy in the hospital, waking up to Don at her bedside, urging to her “get out of here and move forward. This never happened. It will shock you how much it never happened.”

A year and a half later, he trades in his secret on her for her to keep a dangerous secret for him.

What’d He Wear?

The Suit

For these three pivotal moments across Mad Men‘s first two seasons, Don Draper dresses in an office-friendly pinstriped gray suit that was identified by a ScreenBid auction as a Calvin Klein suit, size 42R. Following the initial ScreenBid auction, the suit was included in another auction in November 2016 where the listing still exists on iCollector.com as of March 2020 with photos of the suit, including labels that identify it as a part of the “Academy Award Clothes” catalog.

Given that Calvin Klein himself had only turned 18 in November 1960 when the end of the first season is set, it’s not strictly a period suit but the cloth and cut are very evocative of a classic business suit from mid-century America, particularly the dawn of the ’60s when the longer, fuller-cut jackets of the fabulous fifties were giving way to the narrower, more minimalist styles associated with the early ’60s.

No gray "suit of armor" is enough to protect Dick Whitman from his past catching up with him in the form of his half-brother Adam in "5G" (Episode 1.05).

No gray “suit of armor” is enough to protect Dick Whitman from his past catching up with him in the form of his half-brother Adam in “5G” (Episode 1.05).

The 100% wool suiting is a light gray with a thin, closely spaced white pinstripe often called a “pencil stripe” as it isn’t quite as thin as a pin but not as wide as chalk. The light color and lightweight wool make this suit a fitting choice for these episodes, respectively set in the late spring of 1960 and ’62.

Don's pencil-striped suiting is clearly visible in this Zippo-flicking shot from "5G" as well as the pale blue-and-gray striped lining inside his jacket sleeve.

Don’s pencil-striped suiting is clearly visible in this Zippo-flicking shot from “5G” as well as the pale blue-and-gray striped lining inside his jacket sleeve.

Don must know it’s a worthwhile suit as he (or, perhaps more realistically, Betty) chose it for him to wear when the Draper family was posing for portraits that Betty had arranged in “5G” (Episode 1.05). In fact, this was my basis for a quintessential Mad Men-esque suit when I was shopping for something to wear for internship interviews and family weddings in the spring of 2009 and eventually found a similar suit with a two-button jacket at Banana Republic.

Don’s light gray thin-striped suit has a single-breasted jacket, fully cut with elegant drape through the chest, creating a fantastic silhouette with stronger shoulders and a more suppressed waist than the classic American “sack cut” that had been popularized by Brooks Brothers suits. The jacket has notch lapels, with a buttonhole through the left lapel, that roll to a full three-button front. Don always wears a white pocket square in a neat “TV fold” in the jacket’s welted breast pocket, and the jacket also has straight flapped hip pockets, long double vents, and three buttons at the cuff of each sleeve.

The dashing ad man in "Red in the Face" (Episode 1.07).

The dashing ad man in “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07).

After two appearances in the first season, this suit returns in the second season episode “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05) only to be ruined when Don crashes his Dodge on a drunken nighttime drive out to Long Island. The iCollector auction listing describes the damage as “a four-inch tear along the left shoulder seam”, which—aside from some wrinkles and dirt—appears to be the extent of the sartorial harm.

Peggy may be disheveled by the time she arrives at the police station to pick up Bobbie and Don in "The New Girl" (Episode 2.05), but at least she's looking more put-together than they do.

Peggy may be disheveled by the time she arrives at the police station to pick up Bobbie and Don in “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05), but at least she’s looking more put-together than they do.

Don’s matching suit trousers are flat-fronted with an appropriately medium-high rise. They have straight pockets along the side seams, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms.

Don is forced to retire his pencil-striped suit upon arriving home after the car crash.

Don is forced to retire his pencil-striped suit upon arriving home after the car crash.

One of Jon Hamm's screen-worn belts as Don Draper, as featured in a ScreenBid auction after the series concluded.

One of Jon Hamm’s screen-worn belts as Don Draper, as featured in a ScreenBid auction after the series concluded.

Through Don’s trouser belt loops, he wears his usual leather belts with enclosed steel box-style buckles, typically coordinating his belt leather to his shoes by wearing a dark brown belt in “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07) but a black belt in “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05).

A black Brooks Brothers-branded belt was included in the aforementioned ScreenBid auction, likely of vintage provenance and finished with a dulled steel buckle with rounded edges and an embossed “L”.

Shirts and Ties

Until the show’s final season, Don exclusively wore white or off-white shirts to the office, reserving his blue or striped shirts for evening outings such as a double date with the Sterlings in “Ladies Room” (Episode 1.02) or a Valentine’s Day dinner out with Betty in “For Those Who Think Young” (Episode 2.01). Indeed, white shirts are essentially a uniform for Sterling Cooper’s creative and accounts teams circa 1960, with Don keeping a backup supply in his desk drawer as seen in the pilot episode, ensuring that his shirts and ties won’t clash after nights “staying in the city”.

Don’s white cotton shirts have narrow semi-spread collars, front plackets, breast pockets for his Luckies, and squared double (French) cuffs for a rotation of cuff links, despite his assertion in “Marriage of Figaro” (Episode 1.03) that he “was raised that men don’t wear jewelry.”

The hallmarks of a Don Draper white shirt: front placket, breast pocket for cigarettes, and double cuffs. Through the lightweight cotton, you can also spy the outline of his usual white cotton short-sleeved crew-neck undershirt.

As seen in “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05), hallmarks of a Don Draper white shirt: front placket, breast pocket for cigarettes, and double cuffs. Through the lightweight cotton, you can also spy the outline of his usual white cotton short-sleeved crew-neck undershirt.

In “5G” (Episode 1.05), he wears a straight tie of solid navy silk, first seen in the first episode “New Amsterdam” (Episode 1.04) with his taupe 3/2-roll sack suit.

A few solid blue and navy ties that Don wore were auctioned off after the series, including a 3.75″-wide dark blue textured Dacron polyester Superba tie and a 2″-wide navy silk Calvin Klein tie, the latter of which likely being the neckwear featured in “5G”.

"5G" (Episode 1.05)

“5G” (Episode 1.05)

Though the photo is labeled "Ep. 107" and Don clearly wears the same shoes and socks from "Red in the Face" (Episode 1.07), his tie is clearly the blue tie from "5G" (Episode 1.05).

Though the photo is labeled “Ep. 107” and Don clearly wears the same shoes and socks from “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07), his tie is clearly the blue tie from “5G” (Episode 1.05).
Source: @janiebryant on Instagram.

In “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07), he wears a more complex tie, patterned in black, tan, and blue variated stripes following a “downhill” direction.

In November 2019, Mad Men‘s esteemed costume designer Janie Bryant posted two behind-the-scenes photos on her Instagram account of Jon Hamm in costume as Don Draper, commenting that “This photo is of Jon showing my set costumers exactly what cuff links I had him wear for that particular scene/script day. Jon and I always joked how Don Draper would match his socks to his trousers!”

Don definitely wears the same cuff links in “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07) and “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05), a set of white gold squares with a large purple square stone set in the center of each. He’s evidently had these fixed as these are the same finnicky cuff links that kept falling out of his shirt in “Marriage of Figaro”, fueling his flirtation with Rachel Menken when she flicked one back at him during a meeting and ultimately replaced them with medieval knights’ helmets in the same episode.

"Red in the Face" (Episode 1.07)

“Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07)

It may be significant or sheer coincidence that he’s wearing them again in “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05) when he encounters the new Mrs. Katz at Sardi’s, but the cuff links themselves hang in there better than ever, even staying fastened through each cuff throughout the ordeal of a car accident!

Don’s tie in “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05) is silver silk with neat rows of squares, extending five across beneath the knot and each consisting of four navy embroidered dots. This particular tie made its first appearance with Don’s silky gray windowpane suit in “Babylon” (Episode 1.06).

"The New Girl" (Episode 2.05)

“The New Girl” (Episode 2.05)

Of Don’s ties with this suit, this lighter silver tie may be my least favorite as it blends together with the similarly colored suit and neutral shirt, not providing enough balance against Jon Hamm’s higher-contrast complexion, face, and hair.

Everything Else: From Head to Toe…to Wrist

“He doesn’t even wear a hat!” the aging Bert Cooper (Robert Morse) complains of JFK in “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07), illustrating just how revolutionary it would be for a man in mid-century America to take on the open air without covering his head. Throughout the decade, Don arrives at the office in his trusty trilby, rotating through a few different short-brimmed hats of varying felts, though the Stetson we see in these episodes of the first season is dark gray with a pinched crown and black grosgrain band, decorated with a feather on the left side.

Wearing his hat rather than carrying it in "Red in the Face" (Episode 1.07), Don shows off his healthier respiratory system by lighting a Lucky during his 23-floor ascent with a sputtering Roger Sterling.

Wearing his hat rather than carrying it in “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07), Don shows off his healthier respiratory system by lighting a Lucky during his 23-floor ascent with a sputtering Roger Sterling.

Though Kennedy’s presidency signaled the end of the headgear era for American business-wear,  raincoats have remained an obvious necessity due to their practicality. Following his anomalous attire of the pilot episode, Don’s preferred raincoat for the first few seasons was a taupe gabardine knee-length raglan coat with an ulster collar, four-button fly front, long single vent, handwarmer pockets, tab cuffs, and an iridescent red satin-finished lining.

Don's predicament at the end of "The New Girl" (Episode 2.05) could be foreshadowed by the fact that he began the day by walking in with Fred Rumson, a notable alcoholic even by Sterling Cooper's standards who would, in fact, be forced to resign after drunkenly peeing himself in the middle of a work day during the following episode.

Don’s predicament at the end of “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05) could be foreshadowed by the fact that he began the day by walking in with Fred Rumson, a notable alcoholic even by Sterling Cooper’s standards who would, in fact, be forced to resign after drunkenly peeing himself in the middle of a work day during the following episode.

As mentioned earlier, Don tends to follow the accepted menswear standard of matching his belts to his shoes. In “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07), he wears dark oxblood leather five-eyelet oxfords with a pair of tan socks that are patterned with broken brown vertical stripes.

Don and Roger continue their climb in "Red in the Face" (Episode 1.07).

Don and Roger continue their climb in “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07).

In “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05), Don again wears earthy striped socks with this suit, though his shoes are black leather apron-toe derbies. These may be the same three-eyelet apron-toe Florsheim derbies that were confirmed to appear three episodes later, or they may be other shoes from Draper-worn brands like Brooks Brothers or Peal & Co., an London shoemaker that closed in 1965 until the name was revived by Brooks later in the decade.

Don slides out of his black derbies in "The New Girl" (Episode 2.05).

Don slides out of his black derbies in “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05).

While some debate persists, there was a general consensus that Don Draper’s wristwatch during the first season—or at least the first episode—was a steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox with a replacement black-and-white “tuxedo dial”, worn on a black leather strap, suggested by Joe’s Daily. The Memovox was a revolutionary timepiece upon its 1956 introduction as the first automatic watch with a mechanical alarm function.

John, a BAMF Style reader, commented on a previous article that Don’s wristwatch through most of the first season was not a Memovox but, in fact, more likely a Rolex Cellini with a 37mm or 39mm case, providing a link with an image of two screen-worn watches with a caption describing them as “a Rolex and an Omega.” I appreciate John’s comment as it forced me to take a closer look at the watch and, indeed, the face of Don’s watch appears to have the signature Rolex crown logo just below the 12:00 marker.

Long suggested to be a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox, Don's first-season watch may be indeed be a Rolex as the markings visible in this screenshot from "5G" indicate.

Long suggested to be a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox, Don’s first-season watch may be indeed be a Rolex as the markings visible in this screenshot from “5G” indicate.

For the second and third seasons, Don has been confirmed to wear an 18-karat rose gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique, the classic dress watch with a swiveling “Reverso” case originally designed to protect the face during polo matches between British Army officers stationed in India.

Introduced in 1931, the Deco-styled watch took on a stylish second life as a status symbol rather than a hard-wearing wristwatch for officers, and the case-reversal functionality evolved to serve the more fashionable purpose of revealing a personalized image on the alternate side of the case. Worn on a brown crocodile strap, Don tends to keep his Reverso worn with its white rectangular dial facing outward, though his shirt cuff covers it for most of the time this suit is worn during “The New Girl”. Should one be interested in a pink gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso à la Draper today, be prepared to spend just under $20,000!

What to Imbibe

Roger: You ready for another? Or have you topped off your tank?
Don: You’re leadin’ this dance.

“I’m on the Roger Sterling diet,” Don assures his epicurean colleague when they’re out for oysters and vodka martinis at New York’s fabled Grand Central Oyster Bar in “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07). The episode’s title refers metaphorically to Roger’s embarrassment, though his true complexion takes on a pallid white as he vomits up the martinis and mollusks after Don’s gambit sends them walking up 23 flights of stairs to avoid being late for a meeting with the Nixon campaign.

Luckily, John Slattery didn't need to upchuck dozens of oysters and a half-dozen martinis for this climactic scene in "Red in the Face" (Episode 1.07). A tube was run up his clothing through the legs that combining a mixture of clam chowder and other foods that, at the appropriate moment, would be "vomited" out onto the floor.

Luckily, John Slattery didn’t need to upchuck dozens of oysters and a half-dozen martinis for this climactic scene in “Red in the Face” (Episode 1.07). A tube was run up his clothing through the legs that combining a mixture of clam chowder and other foods that, at the appropriate moment, would be “vomited” out onto the floor.

While still not feeling his best, Don at least manages to keep down his lunch and still resemble a human while Roger comes face to face with the drawbacks of middle age, having only just “bragged” about his ulcer when he noticed Don keeping up with his countless rounds of martinis:

You keep matching me like this and you’ll have an ulcer of your own… any day now!

Roger should perhaps slow down his consumption of them, but his choice of vodka martinis is far more appetizing than the dash of Smirnoff added to his milk we witnessed at the beginning of the episode. Martinis and Gibsons, their onion-garnished cousins, are Roger’s cocktail of choice throughout Mad Men‘s seven-season run, and he makes clear his preference for vodka rather than gin. No matter which spirit he prefers, all serious martini drinkers can agree with Roger’s direction to the waiter: “Easy on the vermouth.”

Don maintains his distinctive drinking grip even with martini glasses, cupping his hand around the back of the glass and pouring the contents back into his mouth rather than holding it by the stem or side.

Don maintains his distinctive drinking grip even with martini glasses, cupping his hand around the back of the glass and pouring the contents back into his mouth rather than holding it by the stem or side.

Once he’s off the “Roger Sterling diet”, Don Draper famously drank the venerable Old Fashioned cocktail, established as his favorite drink in the pilot episode and one that we find him drinking through the end of the sixth season. Even the martini-swilling Bobbie Barrett knows this in “The New Girl” (Episode 2.05), ordering for Don when he joins her at Sardi’s: “He’ll have an Old Fashioned.” Don eventually returns the favor by ordering their dinners: steak tartare for her and hearts of palm salad for him. Ugh. I’ll have what she‘s having.

Cheers!

Cheers!

Behind the wheel of his Dodge a few hours and one Rachel Menken sighting later, Don and Bobbie are passing a bottle of bourbon with an unclear blue-and-red label, though I suspect it’s the same fictional “Blue Hills” label seen when Betty had been prepping mint juleps for Sally’s birthday party in “Marriage of Figaro” (Episode 1.03). While the props team was ashamed of their user of fictional brands in that episode—including the “Fielding” beer that Don guzzles from the garage fridge—it makes sense to not associate a real brand with these two careless imbibers’ dangerous drinking-and-driving in “The New Girl”, particularly as it ends up in a crash.

Bobbie Barrett tempts Don into one of many ill-advised situations that can only lead to a disastrous outcome.

Bobbie Barrett tempts Don into one of many ill-advised situations that can only lead to a disastrous outcome.

How to Get the Look

John Slattery and Jon Hamm in "Red in the Face", Episode 1.07 of Mad Men. Note the clear gold stenciling of "Stetson" on the leather band of the gray trilby in Don's left hand.

John Slattery and Jon Hamm in “Red in the Face”, Episode 1.07 of Mad Men. Note the clear gold stenciling of “Stetson” on the leather band of the gray trilby in Don’s left hand.

The quintessential American businessman, Don Draper kept his closet lined with several gray suits in all cuts, patterns, and shades, with this lighter gray pencil-striped suit standing out as a definitive mid-century office suit, ideal for maintaining sartorial professionalism during three-martini lunches or an after-hours rendezvous.

  • Light gray narrowly spaced white-pinstriped wool suit:
    • Single-breasted 3-button jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket (with white cotton pocket square), straight flapped hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and long double vents
    • Flat front trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • White cotton dress shirt with semi-spread collar, front placket, breast pocket, and double/French cuffs with gauntlet button
    • White gold square cuff links with square purple stones
  • Solid navy, variated-stripe, or silver patterned silk straight ties
  • Black or dark brown belt with steel box-type buckle
  • Black or oxblood calf leather lace-up shoes
  • Tan socks with brown stripes
  • Gray felt short-brimmed Stetson trilby with black grosgrain ribbon
  • Taupe gabardine raglan-sleeve raincoat with ulster collar, 4-button fly front, handwarmer pockets, single-button semi-tab cuffs, single vent, and red iridescent satin-finished lining
  • Steel-cased wristwatch with black-and-white “tuxedo dial” on black textured leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the entire series, though you’ll only find this suit featured in the first and second seasons.

The Quote

Negotiating is a bore.

Daniel Craig in Defiance

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Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski in Defiance (2008)

Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski in Defiance (2008)

Vitals

Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski, Polish resistance leader

Belarus, August 1941 through April 1942

Film: Defiance
Release Date: December 31, 2008
Director: Edward Zwick
Costume Designer: Jenny Beavan

Background

Daniel Craig’s fifth and final movie as James Bond, No Time to Die, was originally scheduled for release in the U.K. today. Last month, MGM and Eon Productions announced that they were pushing the release to November in response to concerns related to the worldwide COVID-19 outbreak. While the postponement may have defied the wishes of Bond fans (see where I’m going with this?), there’s still plenty of Craig’s filmography out there to stream, including the 2008 war film Defiance.

Based on the true exploits of a Polish resistance group during World War II, Defiance wastes no time in establishing the different personalities of the four Bielski Brothers: pragmatic Tuvia (Daniel Craig) who emerges as a natural leader, tough Zus (Liev Schrieber) who is always ready for a fight, sensitive Asael (Jamie Bell) for whom family unity is most important, and the quiet youngster Aron (George MacKay) who withdraws after witnessing the deaths of his parents and family at the hands of the brutal Nazi Einsatzgruppen. (In reality, Asael was older than he was portrayed and was also the first to take up arms as opposed to his more mild-mannered depiction in Defiance.)

Encountering other Jewish refugees and families in exile, the partisans work together to survive while arming themselves to fight for vengeance and defend their lives as they grow to more than 1,200 strong, organizing what would become known as the Bielski Otriad.

Director and co-screenwriter Edward Zwick and screenwriter Clayton Frohman were inspired by Nechama Tec’s 1993 book Defiance: The Bielski Partisans, adding more combat scenes including a climactic tank battle that differed from the reality of the survival-oriented group. While scenes like that may have been invented for the screen, much of Defiance was filmed on location in Lithuania, just across the Belarusian border and reportedly about 100 miles away from where the actual Bielski Otriad had camped.

What’d He Wear?

As we follow Tuvia Bielski for nearly a year in the forest, the Otriad leader would need to be dressed in layers rugged and reliable enough to protect him through months of rain, snow, dirt, and combat without the possibility of changing while also serving as relatively effective camouflage.

“In this film, the characters live with nothing, so their costumes have to show how they cope with that,” costume designer Jenny Beavan offered in a December 2008 Variety interview, where it was explained that her team created six of each of the main actors’ costumes for Defiance. “You have to have a certain amount done up front, but things evolve during the course of shooting because you become inspired by something, so we were still tweaking everything until it was just right.”

At least two of the leather jackets Beavan designed for Daniel Craig to wear as Tuvia Bielski were on display at the Heritage Museum & Gardens in Sandwich. Museum curator Jennifer Madden explained to 90.9 WBUR’s Erin Trahan that Beavan’s process included “aging” the jackets with dye and cheese graters to create the look of a garment that withstands constant battles with German troops, seasonal precipitation, and life in the woods.

Thanks to BAMF Style reader Simon, I learned that Stuart Belton made Craig’s screen-worn leather jackets in Defiance.

DEFIANCE

Tuvia’s brown leather jacket is styled like a classic car coat, hip-length and with a large enough fit to be worn over a lounge jacket. The coat has a large, point collar and a brass zipper that zips up from the waist, leaving a few inches of skirt below to aid Tuvia’s movements when he needs to move quickly. The zipper rises up to an inch shy of the top of the coat.

A horizontal yoke extends across the front and back, aligned toward the bottom of each armhole, with short pleats extending down from each of the back yokes for a touch of added mobility. An inch down from the front yoke, on each side of the chest, is a set-in pocket with a jetted opening and brass zip closure. There are also patch pockets lower on the hips with narrow straight flaps but no evident buttons, snaps, or zips to fasten. The set-in sleeves are reinforced at the ends with a seam that rings around each cuff under a rounded-end semi-strap that closes through a single mixed dark brown sew-through button.

Tuvia confers with his brother Zus.

Tuvia confers with his brother Zus.

There are many replicas offered for sale across the internet, though I’d place my faith in the screen-inspired tribute offered by Magnoli Clothiers in goatskin, lambskin, and cowhide, as well as a “pre-distressed” finish for the kind of patina one would see after months in the woods.

From the beginning of the movie, Tuvia wears a thick dark brown leather belt that serves as his de facto gun belt, typically worn over his outermost layer though he initially wears it over his jacket and under his leather coat when only armed with the French Charmelot-Delvigne revolver that he shoves into the belt. The thick belt has a large gunmetal double-prong buckle.

After obtaining an old French revolver from their neighbor, Tuvia wears it tucked into his belt, worn under his leather coat but over his lounge jacket.

After obtaining an old French revolver from their neighbor, Tuvia wears it tucked into his belt, worn under his leather coat but over his lounge jacket.

As the Bielski Otriad gets more tightly organized and better armed, Tuvia supplements his belt with a dark leather strap that crosses over his right shoulder like a Sam Browne rig, connecting onto his waist belt with wide leather loops. This narrower strap has a gold-toned single-prong buckle, contrasting with the dulled silver gunmetal buckle of his waist belt.

The addition of the diagonal cross strap gives Tuvia better support for adding a holster, magazine pouches, and a vertical knife sheath onto his belt. The German-issued black hardshell leather holster has a wide flap with a narrow strap that passes through through a metal loop to retain his Walther P38 in place as well as a forward-positioned slot for an extra magazine. Worn on the back left of his belt is a three-cell magazine pouch, made of “field gray” (feldgrau) canvas with black retention straps to carry three of the long, straight box magazines for his MP40.

Same belt, different day... and on this particular day, Tuvia has already supplemented his usual belt with a cross strap, holster, magazine pouch, and sheathed knife.

Same belt, different day… and on this particular day, Tuvia has already supplemented his usual belt with a cross strap, holster, magazine pouch, and sheathed knife.

Under his coat, Tuvia wears a fraying olive drab cotton unstructured jacket that’s styled and cut like a ventless, single-breasted lounge jacket with its notch lapels, three-button front, patch breast pocket, and hip pockets. Unlike a suit or sport jacket, the ends of the jacket’s sleeves are plain with no buttons or vents, and Tuvia frequently cuffs back the end of each sleeve.

The color and cut of Tuvia's jacket, as well as his habit of wearing all three buttons fastened, suggests a militaresque appearance apropos his role as commander of the Bielski Otriad, even if it isn't a true military garment.

The color and cut of Tuvia’s jacket, as well as his habit of wearing all three buttons fastened, suggests a militaresque appearance apropos his role as commander of the Bielski Otriad, even if it isn’t a true military garment.

Tuvia’s pullover shirt is slate-gray with tonal blue striping, made of a lightweight cotton that has taken to pilling over many months in hard service as the Otriad leader’s only shirt. The shirt’s set-in sleeves are shirred at the shoulders and fastened with button cuffs that he unbuttons and rolls up to his forearms when working around the camp.

The shirt four buttons widely spaced down the plain-front bib, worn with the lowest three buttons fastened and open at the neck, where the top of his pale ecru slubbed long-sleeve henley undershirt occasionally peeks through. The slate-gray pullover shirt has a soft point collar that becomes unpresentably wrinkled, though keeping a pressed collar is understandably among the highest of Tuvia Bielski’s priorities.

DEFIANCE

Tuvia spends his months in the woods wearing corduroy breeches, a smart choice for comfort and durability. The cloth is a fine gauge corduroy known as “pinwale” or “needlecord” (best observed in this closeup), colored in an olive gray cloth not unlike the drab “field gray” or feldgrau of the era’s German uniforms.

Tuvia’s high-rise breeches have single foward-facing pleats, side pockets, and an additional coin pocket on the right side, though there are no back pockets. In addition to a pointed-end “cinch-back” strap, these trousers are held up by a set of green, taupe, and burgundy striped suspenders (braces) with silver-toned adjusters and brown leather hooks that connect to buttons along the inside of the trouser waistband.

DEFIANCE

The bottoms of Tuvia’s breeches are tucked into plain black leather riding boots with hard leather soles. The calf-high shafts have straight openings around the top and are unadorned with straps or buckles, similar in style to the German-issued M1939 Marschstiefel (“marching boots”), infamously monikered “jackboots”, and the long leather boots worn by the Soviet Red Army.

MP40 in hand, Tuvia takes cover behind a tree while battling the Germans.

MP40 in hand, Tuvia takes cover behind a tree while battling the Germans.

As the weather grows cooler approaching winter, Tuvia dresses for a scouting mission in an olive military side cap and charcoal woolen scarf. Tuvia may have considered the possibility of encountering the Soviets during the mission as his khaki side cap is similar to the khaki pilotka summer cap issued by the Red Army, albeit without the distinctive Red Star badge that was pinned to the front. (These days, you can even find Soviet pilotkas on Amazon!)

DEFIANCE

The sidecap makes only this brief appearance around the time of the Bielski Otriad’s first encounter with the local Soviet troops, but Tuvia would continue wearing the charcoal scarf through winter.

Otherwise, Tuvia typically dresses his head in a dark olive tweed flat cap, similar to the Greek fisherman’s caps that had crept their way inland to become popular workwear, particularly among the Russian Jewish community as famously worn by Topol as Tevye the milkman in Fiddler on the Roof (1971).

Tuvia catches Lilka's eye through the falling snow during Asael's wedding.

Tuvia catches Lilka’s eye through the falling snow during Asael’s wedding.

As the snowy winter of December 1941 extends into 1942, Tuvia adds the additional layer of a light fawn-colored topcoat made of tattered wool with a piled fur-lined collar that Zus had initially liberated from a local farmer who collaborates with the Germans. Wearing it through most of the winter, Tuvia also lends it to Lilka (Alexa Davalos) with his Walther P38 for her first food mission; she returns it to him in time for him to use as a blanket as he recovers from his winter sickness, and subsequent scenes depict both Tuvia and Lilka sharing the coat until the spring.

The long coat has a high-fastening double-breasted front with two columns of five buttons each, fastening through a fly front that provides a clean appearance when the coat is buttoned. The wide collar is fur-lined, providing extra warmth and protection when the coat is buttoned and the collar turned up against Tuvia’s neck and face. The coat also has hand pockets and a short back belt with a button on each rounded end that suppresses the fit around the waist. The set-in sleeves have no buttons, straps, or buckles at the ends, only a seam that rings around the cuff about six inches back from the end of each sleeve. Tuvia also wears dark brown knitted fingerless gloves throughout the winter.

Bundled up against the cold winter.

Bundled up against the cold winter.

When the snow thaws and winter gives way to spring, Tuvia hangs up his heavier topcoat and opts for a long dark brown leather pilot’s flying jacket that extends below his knees, another piece similar to items worn by the Soviet Army that may subconsciously code him as an ally when he returns to their camp to request assistance.

The double-breasted coat has four rows of two buttons, with the top row at the neck spaced a little higher than the three rows on the chest, belt line, and hips. Tuvia wears the coat’s large point collar turned up, revealing a throat latch buttoned onto the right collar leaf that would ostensibly be fastened to the left leaf to close the coat over his neck if needed. The coat also has slanted hand pockets and raglan sleeves with plain cuffs.

Tuvia wears double-layered leather coats for his return to the snowy Soviet camp.

Tuvia wears double-layered leather coats for his return to the snowy Soviet camp.

With the arrival of spring, Tuvia has no need for his additional layers and abandons both topcoats as well as the heavy scarf, instead catching his sweat with a black-and-gray striped wool neckerchief that he wears under his shirt like a day cravat.

Tuvia faces the group's next obstacle to freedom.

Tuvia faces the group’s next obstacle to freedom.

Tuvia wears a vintage wristwatch with a sterling silver cushion case on a brown edge-stitched leather strap. The watch has a round tan radium dial with black-outlined Arabic numeral hour markers and a sub-section register at 6:00. My friend Aldous, an eagle-eyed pro with whom I often consult with on the subject of wristwatches, suggests that the watch was likely manufactured no later than the mid-1920s due to the design of its dial, luminous “cathedral” hands, and the fixed wire lugs that were increasingly less common after the advent of the now-ubiquitous spring bar.

DEFIANCE

Cushion-cased watches were widely popular around the world during this era, making identification of Craig’s screen-worn watch more difficult. Some on Quora and WatchUSeek have suggested that, as he would as James Bond and in The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, Daniel Craig wears an Omega, though of 1940s vintage to fit with the film’s timeframe, though I doubt these theories as the details of the watch don’t resemble any period Omegas I’m familiar with. Aldous pointed out to me that the quality of the metal does not suggest a higher-end watchmaker like Longines or Omega but rather a more run-of-the-mill Swiss watch like a Cyma.

In fact, I recommend tracking down vintage Cyma cushion-cased watches from the 1920s if you want to cop Daniel’s horological style from Defiance as there are quite a few on the market not unlike his screen-worn piece. (For example, this 1927-dated Cyma via Etsy.)

The Guns

“One pistol is nothing, we need rifles, machine guns,” observes Zus as the three oldest brothers formulate their first plan of vengeance. “Machine guns? What’s next, you’re gonna take on the whole German Army?” asks Tuvia, foreshadowing that—by the end of the story—that’s exactly what the brothers are prepared to do. But first, they’ll need that “one pistol.”

The handgun in question is actually a Chamelot-Delvigne Modèle 1873 revolver, designated the modèle 1873 in French military service. The MAS 1873 had already been relatively obsolete by World War II, though it had a reputation for reliability and remained in use in limited numbers by French service, namely among reserve units, police officers, and resistance fighters.

After the Franco-Prussian War resulted in a German victory, the French recognized a serious need to upgrade their weaponry. Belgian gunsmith J. Chamelot and French inventor Henri-Gustave Delvigne collaborated to develop what would become the first double-action revolver issued to the French Army. Per its designation, the Chamelot-Delvigne revolver was produced by the French state manufacturer Manufacture d’armes de Saint-Étienne (MAS) from 1873 until 1887. The Modèle 1873 with its bare metal finish was offered to non-commissioned officers while the newly developed Modèle 1874 “Revolver d’Officier” with its darker blued finish and fluted cylinder was issued to officers, though most French commissioned officers reportedly preferred swords to sidearms as personal defense weapons through World War I.

By that time, Chamelot-Delvigne revolver production had long ceased with more than 330,000 of the Army Modèle 1873 and 1874 revolvers produced as well as a slightly more powerful Navy model. The standard issue French sidearm had already been upgraded to the Modèle 1892 “Lebel” revolver, which fired the smaller 8mm French Ordinance round that, while smaller than the Modèle 1873’s 11mm round, was nearly equivalent in power.

Tuvia borrows his MAS 1873 from a neighbor, the sympathetic farmer Kościk (Jacek Korman), who only has four rounds of the revolver’s proprietary 11mm French Ordnance black powder ammunition. A rimmed cartridge measuring approximately 11×17 mm R, this round was relatively anemic for a weapon of its size, equivalent in velocity and power to the .32 ACP compact pistol round (an improvement over the earlier-issued ammunition, which was closer to the underpowered .25 ACP.) Still, it’s wielded to deadly effect in James Bond’s, er, Tuvia Bielski’s hands when he exacts vengeance on his parents’ deaths by executing the cruel Schutzmannschaft (Auxiliary Police) chief who was responsible for their deaths.

"Only four bullets," Tuvia explains to Zus, who responds: "Then we'll have to make them count."

“Only four bullets,” Tuvia explains to Zus, who responds: “Then we’ll have to make them count.”
Note Daniel Craig’s correct trigger finger discipline.

As the brothers gain access to better arms and ammunition, mostly of German or Russian issue, Tuvia has no further need for his underpowered and obsolete French revolver and begins carrying a Walther P38 as his preferred sidearm.

The Wehrmacht had adopted the P38 as its issued service pistol in 1940, two years after the first design had been completed and effectively replacing the iconic but aging Luger. The Walther P38 was innovative for its time as the first locked-breech pistol with a double-action trigger (similar to that on Walther’s blowback-action PPK), a necessity mandated by the P38’s more powerful 9x19mm ammunition. Despite some experimental or limited runs in other calibers, the 9x19mm Parabellum round was essentially standard for the P38, feeding from an eight-round box magazine. Although its locked breech was part of the initial P38 design, the Heer requested that this original design be modified from its hidden hammer to an external hammer, resulting in the two-year delay before production could get underway.

Germany produced Walther P38 pistols throughout the duration of the war, ending in 1945 after the Allied victory. A dozen years later, the West German Bundeswehr requested that the P38 re-enter production, which it did in June 1957. These postwar P38 pistols, and the P1 variant that began production in 1963, can be differentiated by their slightly lighter aluminum frames as opposed to the steel frames of WWII-production P38 pistols.

Tuvia doles out intra-camp punishment with his Walther P38.

Tuvia doles out intra-camp punishment with his Walther P38.

In addition to carrying a German service pistol, Tuvia keeps a captured German MP40 submachine gun as his primary assault weapon. Designated Maschinenpistole 40 in German military service, this submachine gun was often nicknamed the “Schmeisser” by Allied soldiers in reference to Hugo Schmeisser, the German weapons designer whose MP18 became the first submachine gun to be used in combat; however, Schmeisser had nothing to do with the direct development of the MP40, which had been designed by Heinrich Vollmer.

Fed from a 32-round, double-stack box magazine, the MP40 fired 9x19mm Parabellum ammunition at a rate of between 500 and 550 rounds per minute. The MP40 could only fire fully automatic with no options for single shots or a three-round burst as found on modern submachine guns, though this relatively low rate of fire (compared to the M1A1 Thompson firing up to 800 rounds per minute) allowed for steady shots in the hands of a skilled shooter.

More than one million MP40 submachine guns were produced at Erma Werke over the course of the war, primarily carried by infantrymen and paratroopers, the latter particularly benefiting from the weapon’s innovative front-folding stock. Unlike the Walther P38, MP40 production was not resumed after the war.

Daniel Craig correctly keeps his finger off the trigger and grips the MP40 by its handguard rather than by the magazine itself, often incorrectly depicted as a foregrip when, in fact, gripping the MP40's magazine while firing would frequently cause feeding malfunctions.

Daniel Craig correctly keeps his finger off the trigger and grips the MP40 by its handguard rather than by the magazine itself, often incorrectly depicted as a foregrip when, in fact, gripping the MP40’s magazine while firing would frequently cause feeding malfunctions.

During the climactic final battle, Tuvia overpowers a group fo German soldiers manning an MG34 machine gun and commandeers the weapon himself. This air-cooled machine gun, designated Maschinengewehr 34 in German service, predated World War II and was considered the first “general purpose” machine gun upon its introduction in 1934. The MG34 was another design from Heinrich Vollmer, the Württemberg-born weapons developer also responsible for the aforementioned MP40.

Chambered in the same rimless 7.92x57mm Mauser rifle round that had been fired by German service rifles for three decades, the recoil-operated MG34 was first issued to units in 1936, entering wider service in January 1939 as Germany prepared for war. With its high rate of fire, relative lightness, and versatility, the MG34 was a popular weapon across all German military branches and battlefronts. The complexity of its production led to the development of the cheaper and faster-firing MG42, though both machine guns remained in production and service through the war’s end.

Tuvia takes over the MG34.

Tuvia takes over the MG34.

What to Imbibe

The brothers Bielski generally limit most of their drinking toward the beginning of the movie, passing a bottle of Altenburger Schwarzgebrannter, a German herbal liqueur.

Zus hands Tuvia a bottle to drown his sorrows after an unpleasant task.

Zus hands Tuvia a bottle to drown his sorrows after an unpleasant task.

I’m not sure if this particular spirit would have been around during World War II as the Altenburger distillery site explains that the liquor factory itself didn’t open until 1948.

I’ll admit I was unfamiliar with this spirit before watching Defiance, but the Altenburger site provides additional context as well as this forum where a user describes it as “a bitter herb liqueur from Altenburg in Thuringia. One usually drinks one shot glass full after a rich meal.”

How to Get the Look

Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski in Defiance (2008). From a photo by Karen Ballard.

Daniel Craig as Tuvia Bielski in Defiance (2008). From a photo by Karen Ballard.

Even Daniel Craig himself seems to have taken some style inspiration from his costume as Tuvia Bielski, as observed by Eve Buckland for the Daily Mail.

  • Brown worn leather hip-length combat car coat with large point collar, waist-to-neck brass zip closure, horizontal front and back yoke, two  zip-closure jetted set-in chest pockets, two patch hip pockets (with flaps), and set-in sleeves with single-button straps
  • Olive cotton unstructured single-breasted 3-button jacket with patch breast pocket, hip pockets, plain cuffs, and ventless back
  • Slate-gray tonal striped lightweight cotton pullover shirt with point collar, four-button bib, and button cuffs
  • Green, taupe, and burgundy striped suspenders with silver-toned adjusters and brown leather connector hooks
  • Olive gray pinwale corduroy high-rise breeches with single forward-facing pleats, side pocket, right-side coin pocket, and cinch-back strap
  • Dark brown leather Sam Browne belt with dulled gunmetal double-prong buckle
    • Narrow dark brown leather cross strap (with gold-toned single-prong buckle)
    • Black leather Walther P38 belt holster with flap
    • Three-cell MP40 magazine pouches
    • Knife sheath
  • Black leather calf-high riding boots with hard leather soles
  • Dark olive tweed flat mariner’s cap
  • Charcoal woolen scarf
  • Vintage silver cushion-cased watch with tan dial (with Arabic numeral hour markers and 6:00 sub-dial) on brown edge-stitched leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

If we should die trying to live, then at least we die like human beings.

Tony Soprano’s Yachting Clothes in “Funhouse”

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James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 2.13: "Funhouse")

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 2.13: “Funhouse”)

Vitals

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano, New Jersey mob boss

New Jersey, Spring 2000

Series: The Sopranos
Episode: “Funhouse” (Episode 2.13)
Air Date: April 9, 2000
Director: Alan Taylor
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Things are good. What the fuck?

Tony Soprano can’t quite seem to believe his luck at the outset of “Funhouse”, the iconic second season finale that aired 20 years ago tonight and is considered to be among The Sopranos‘ finest hours.

All of Tony’s enemies have been vanquished in one way or another, he’s making boatloads of cash due to a lucrative calling card scam, and his daughter is graduating from high school with a promising future at a number of prestigious colleges. And yet, there’s something nagging at Tony Soprano… and it isn’t just the unfamiliar combination of a full Indian dinner followed by Artie Bucco’s potentially tainted zuppa di mussels that’s troubling his stomach.

“Never been so fuckin’ depressed… it’s all a big nothin’, life!” Tony mutters as he awakens, sobbing and sweating from a troubling fever dream that would plague him over the course of the episode. In their masterful tome The Sopranos Sessions, Matt Zoller Seitz and Alan Sepinwall cite this aspect of “Funhouse” as the clearest connection of David Chase’s affinity for the David Lynch and Mark Frost’s surreal Twin Peaks, particularly “the way the show treated dreams, fantasies, intuition, and the uncanny as legitimate sources of information about our everyday world.” Seitz and Sepinwall draw many excellent conclusions that make the book a worthy read (and re-read), including:

“It’s not my fuckin’ head,” says Tony, right before the dreams begin. “It’s my stomach.” Read as: I’m not going to figure this out intellectually, I’m going to go with my gut. Tony’s actual guts—his digestive organs—are going to work through, process, digest the matter of the informant. Pussy is the toxin in the Mob’s body politic that caused this allergic reaction. The organization’s health will only be restored after he’s been puked up or shat out.

After two years of growing suspicion and denial, Tony’s tortured gut forces him to confront the truth: his close friend, “Big Pussy” Bonpensiero (Vincent Pastore) is a police informant, a “rat” in the parlance of these wise guys. Despite battling his near-crippling case of food poisoning, Tony rounds up his two most trusted confidants—Silvio Dante (Steven Van Zandt) and “Paulie Walnuts” Gualtieri (Tony Sirico)—and lures their unwitting pal out to sea.

What’d He Wear?

The second act of “Funhouse” finds Tony not looking his best due to his illness—as well as a nagging sense of what he has to do—but he sensibly blends his usual mob-influenced sartorial tendencies with a practical layered look befitting a man with a job to do.

The Sopranos has nodded to its influences in classic gangster cinema, particularly the oedipal dynamic in The Public Enemy (1931) starring James Cagney. A fellow pre-Code crime drama, Scarface (1932), famously made use of an “X” motif to foreshadow violent gangland deaths, X marking the proverbial spot where mobsters would be rubbed out by their enemies. Thus, it’s fitting that a fevered Tony dresses himself in a shirt printed with “X” motifs, foreshadowing the trigger he knows he has to pull that day, arguably one of the most significant of The Sopranos62 murders and the one that would most haunt Tony through the end of the series.

My friend @TonySopranoStyle has theorized that the shirt is almost definitely a product of Burma Bibas, the New York City luxury menswear outfitter responsible for many of the printed silk short-sleeved shirts Gandolfini wore over the course of the series. Founded in 1926, the company specializes in unique and colorful silk-printed sport shirts and ties.

Tony’s black silk shirt is abstractly patterned with beige, brush-stroked maze-like squares, each overlaid with a black “X” shape and shadowed by a similar slate-gray maze square. The loose-fitting silk shirt has a camp collar, plain front, and short, elbow-length sleeves.

Tony buttons up his shirt over Carmela's protestations that he needs to stay in bed.

Tony buttons up his shirt over Carmela’s protestations that he needs to stay in bed.

Tony wears a unique beige jacket that’s a fashionable evolution of the military bomber jacket of the ’50s and the utilitarian Derby of San Francisco jacket of the ’60s: a beige silk blouson made by Paul&Shark Yachting. This raglan-sleeve “yachting jacket”, as marketed by the Italian company, consists of a beige silk shell with ribbed-knit collar, cuffs, and hem like a classic bomber. (This is a contrast to the “yachting jackets” offered by brands like Tommy Hilfiger that are generally brightly colored windbreakers with standing collars, water-resistant polyester shells, and zippered pockets.) In addition to the zip-up fly front, Tony’s jacket has a tan button at the neck like a Derby jacket with two buttons on the bottom to firmly close the jacket at the waist.

Meant to be worn for luxurious yet practical comfort aboard a yacht, Paul&Shark lined its yachting jackets for additional wind resistance. In Tony’s case, this appears to be a dark navy silk inner shell with a nylon tab that extends from the inside right of the jacket, extending the full length of the zipper to provide an extra layer that keeps wind and weather out when the zipper is fastened. @TonySopranoStyle did some additional digging and discovered that this is also a reverse shell; thus, the wearer can also wear the navy silk side out with a beige tab showing along the inside of the right zipper.

Tony's beige bomber-inspired jacket should have tipped Pussy off that an execution was afoot; the last time Tony wore this type of jacket was during Matthew Bevilacqua's execution in "From Where to Eternity" (Episode 2.09) when he sported an olive drab suede-like bomber.

Tony’s beige bomber-inspired jacket should have tipped Pussy off that an execution was afoot; the last time Tony wore this type of jacket was during Matthew Bevilacqua’s execution in “From Where to Eternity” (Episode 2.09) when he sported an olive drab suede-like bomber.

Paul&Shark was founded in 1976 by the Dini family, operating from the Magliofici Daco mill established in Italy in 1921. The brand was inspired by Paolo Dini’s trip to Maine, where he spotted the sail from an 18th century clipper inscribed Paul&Shark and thus launched the brand’s sports fashion center that specializes in an Italian-designed collection “inspired by the world of sailing and based on its elegance, performance and spirit of adventure.” Under the leadership of current president and CEO Andrea Dini, the Italian company recently made the decision to donate 20% of all e-commerce proceeds to buy ventilation machines for patients with pneumonia during the ongoing coronavirus epidemic, a characteristic choice for the company that has made a commitment to sustainability and environmental protection.

Although yachting jackets like Tony wore in “Funhouse” do not appear among the brand’s current product lineup—as of March 2020—searching used or vintage retailers or sites like eBay often yields at least a few results for beige silk Paul&Shark Yachting jackets. (For example, as of March 19, 2020, here’s one, here’s another, yet another, and one more!) You’ll note that many of the eBay selections have set-in sleeves and patch pockets with button-down flaps as opposed to the raglan sleeves and open slanted welt pockets on T’s jacket.

I was able to identify the jacket thanks to the brand’s logo, a beige-embroidered crest on the left breast that reads “PAUL&SHARK” above an embroidered shark, with the word “Yachting” scripted below it.

Tony's yachting jacket is subtly branded with the Paul&Shark logo embroidered in a matching beige thread over the left breast.

Tony’s yachting jacket is subtly branded with the Paul&Shark logo embroidered in a matching beige thread over the left breast.

Tony may not be feeling his best, but he overcomes the mental struggles that sent him slumbering through town in sweatpants in “Isabella” (Episode 1.12) and pulls on a pair of charcoal slacks, likely with double or triple reverse pleats and worn with a black leather belt. The trousers have side pockets and jetted back pockets, and the bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Tony and Silvio walk Pussy to his doom at the Channel Club docks in Monmouth Beach.

Tony and Silvio walk Pussy to his doom at the Channel Club docks in Monmouth Beach.

Tony’s black calf leather split-toe derbies are likely the same Allen Edmonds shoes that he wears with a black-and-cream glen plaid sports coat for his therapy appointment the following day, worn here with black socks to avoid any contrast between his shoes and the cuffed bottoms of his trousers.

Tony wastes no expense on the finest tarp and chains for burying his one-time friend.

Tony wastes no expense on the finest tarp and chains for burying his one-time friend.

The Sopranos makes clear that gold jewelry is a universal status symbol in La Cosa Nostra, with each mobster weighed down with pounds of gold jewelry and the stingy Paulie tellingly robbing Pussy’s corpse of his gold crucifix, diamond horseshoe ring, and diamond-studded Rolex “President” with its distinctive red dial before they send him off into the sea. (Paulie’s decision to rob his former friend of his jewelry was characteristically impulsive, greedily opportunistic, and ultimately tactless as all that gold would have given Pussy a little extra weight to ensure he remained buried at sea… not that he would need much more.)

Tony himself sports a regular complement of gold that remained relatively consistent from the end of the first season throughout the rest of the series, all of which has been featured extensively by my friend @TonySopranoStyle‘s excellent Instagram account. The “skip” wears his usual rings, a gold wedding band on the third finger of his left hand and his usual bypass ruby-and-diamonds gold pinky ring on the opposing hand, as well as his gold St. Jerome medallion on a thin gold necklace.

The 18-karat gold link bracelet on Tony’s wrist consists of a custom fancy curb link with what @TonySopranoStyle describes as “if a Cuban curbed link chain and an Italian Figaro link chain with a twist had a baby,” fastened with a safety clasp that provides more continuity than a “lobster”-style clasp. My friend Jeff, another BAMF Style reader and The Sopranos fan and enthusiast, purchased a very similar 14-karat bracelet from Braccio, a shop in East Rutherford, New Jersey, that—due to its proximity—may indeed have provided jewelry worn by Tony or his crew.

Throughout most of The Sopranos‘ run, Tony asserts his leadership with his Rolex Day-Date “President” in 18-karat yellow gold with a champagne gold dial. This luxury self-winding chronometer’s executive connotations have made it the choice of world leaders since its the refined President (or “Presidential”) three-piece link bracelet was presented in 1956 alongside the then-new Day-Date, and it has been associated with several American heads of state in the decades to follow from Tony’s own beau idéal JFK to LBJ. Upon its introduction, the Day-Date was the first watch to include both the full day of the week and the date, presented across the top of the dial and through a window at the 3:00 position, respectively.

Tony’s particular Rolex is ref. 18238, which BAMF Style reader Chris helpfully differentiated from the oft-misidentified ref. 118238 as Tony’s watch has polished lugs and a heavier bracelet. The watch is waterproof to a maximum depth of 330 feet, resistant to the waves splashing on the yacht’s deck in rough weather but ensuring its destruction had Tony been the one pitched into the sea off Monmouth Beach instead of his former friend.

You could hardly ask for a better shot that captures all of Tony's jewelry and accessories.

You could hardly ask for a better shot that captures all of Tony’s jewelry and accessories.

For budget-minded readers looking to evoke the general look and functionality of Tony’s gold Day-Date, I tend to recommend either of these Seiko models: the quartz Seiko SGF206 with its similar fluted bezel or the automatic Seiko SNKK52 with its President-like bracelet. The gold-plated Peugeot 1029WT quartz watch goes the extra step of resembling the Day-Date President dial with its day window across the top and Roman numeral markers, though its affordable price tag comes at the cost of sacrificing the quality that makes a prestigious watch worth owning.

All of these watches tend to be available for less than $150… as opposed to the upwards of $10,000 (and often, much more!) that one should expect to drop for even a used Rolex President.


“Let’s go down below, check out the mahogany,” Tony issues when all is still convivial aboard the 50-foot craft. When down below, the two lines are drawn: in their black and tan color scheme, Tony, Silvio, and Paulie not only coordinate with each other but also echo the boat’s interior; on the other hand, the doomed Pussy is the clear outsider in his blue tracksuit, contrasting with the three friends with whom he used to be united that now face him as judge, jury, and executioner and also, sadly, echoing the colors of the sea into which his body would soon be disposed.

What to Imbibe

“We got any good tequila?” Pussy asks, possibly hoping to drunkenly charm his old pals into letting him go but more likely just wanting to take his inevitable punishment with a more blissfully altered mind. Tony smirks and nods to Paulie, who digs under the bar and slides out three shot glasses with a bottle of Jose Cuervo Especial Gold, one of the most recognizable tequilas in the world. It may not be the best remedy for Tony’s tummy, and he visibly hesitates but eventually takes the shot, steeling himself for the unthinkable task of having to murder his friend.

Emboldened by tequila, Pussy continues spouting tall tales about the 26-year-old Puerto Rican mistress he had supposed shacked up with... until Tony bursts his bubble by asking: "did she even really exist?"

Emboldened by tequila, Pussy continues spouting tall tales about the 26-year-old Puerto Rican mistress he had supposed shacked up with… until Tony bursts his bubble by asking: “did she even really exist?”

Counting all of its tequila entities, Jose Cuervo makes the best-selling tequila in the world, having captured more than a third of global market share and about the same in U.S. market share as of July 2013. While its Especial products are mixto tequilas made from at least 51% agave, Jose Cuervo also offers its Tradicional Silver and Reposado varieties, both 100% agave.

As Tony is riding with Silvio and Pussy to the boat, we get a glimpse—a fever dream? a forecast?—of Tony enjoying a Chinese takeout dinner with his family that evening, sharing the news of his boat purchase before Meadow announces her choice to attend Columbia. For this family dinner, Tony’s drinking the uncharacteristic choice of Miller Lite, poured from a long-necked bottle into a glass.

Tony wearing this same outfit during the "dinner" dream in mid-car ride lulls the viewer—and Pussy, by extension—into a false sense of security. But, like Tony, we're shaken back to reality and the fact that Tony's day didn't just include buying a boat.

Tony wearing this same outfit during the “dinner” dream in mid-car ride lulls the viewer—and Pussy, by extension—into a false sense of security. But, like Tony, we’re shaken back to reality and the fact that Tony’s day didn’t just include buying a boat.

While we know Tony is a die-hard Scotch drinker, he’s no stranger to enjoying a beer at a barbecue or bar, most typically Budweiser or Heineken though we also see him drinking Beck’s, Bud Light, Budweiser Select, Coffaro, Dos Equis, Löwenbräu, Miller Genuine Draft, Miller High Life, Molson, Rolling Rock, and Sam Adams.

What to Listen to

As paralleled years later in “Kaisha”, the sixth season finale, “Funhouse” features the characters listening to fellow New Jersey-ite Frank Sinatra on screen while the episode itself is bookended by a mournful, non-diegetic track by The Rolling Stones. In this case, the Stones song is “Thru and Thru” from the band’s 1994 album Voodoo Lounge and notable for being one of the few songs by the band to feature guitarist Keith Richards on leading vocals. Despite being the first album without Bill Wyman, the band’s bassist for three decades since it was founded, Voodoo Lounge was considered a return to form and would be awarded a Grammy for Best Rock Album.

The Sinatra track is another relative “deep cut”. When the doomed Pussy descends into the boat’s interior quarters, he finds a stereo and puts on “Baubles, Bangles, and Beads”, the ninth track from the 1967 album Francis Albert Sinatra & Antônio Carlos Jobim. Ol’ Blue Eyes had first recorded the Robert C. Wright, George Forrest, and Alexander Borodin in December 1958 for Come Dance with Me!, the swinging Capitol concept album that would be the crooner’s most successful, spending two and a half years on the Billboard charts and eventually winning the Grammy Award for Album of the Year. However, it wasn’t this boisterous and brassy version that underscored Pussy’s last few moments of relative peace but the leisurely paced, bossa nova-style recording that Sinatra cut with Jobim in early 1967.

An interesting coincidence is that both “Thru and Thru” and “Baubles Bangles, and Beads” were the penultimate track on their respective albums.

The Gun

“Not in the face, okay? You’ll give me that?” Pussy begs when the small talk has run out and he knows his time is up. Tony, Silvio, and Paulie put down their shot glasses and and pull out their pistols to kill a man that had been a brother to them all. The two subordinates take their cues from Tony as he pulls the SIG-Sauer P226 from his waistband and thumbs off the safety. In addition to being the first draw, Tony takes the first shot, clipping Pussy in the right side of his chest.

Tony fires the shot heard 'round the yacht from his SIG-Sauer P226.

Tony fires the shot heard ’round the yacht from his SIG-Sauer P226.

While Glock pistols are arguably the most commonly seen on The Sopranos, SIG-Sauer models are also frequently carried and used by major characters. The German-based company formed in 1976, uniting Swiss weapons manufacturer Schweizerische Industrie Gesellschaft (SIG) with German manufacturer J.P. Sauer & Sohn. SIG had just introduced its revolutionary P220 semi-automatic pistol as a replacement for the Swiss Army, kicking off a series of wildly successful pistols that would be adopted by military forces and law enforcement agencies across the globe.

Introduced in 1983, the full-size P226 was one of the most successful of this series. SIG-Sauer had hoped that the P226 would be a viable contender in the trials to adopt a new American military service pistol, which eventually went to Beretta, but the P226 and its compact P228 and P229 variants would all be swiftly adopted by many branches of the U.S. government and military as well as police departments from coast to coast.

The SIG P226 was originally chambered only for the universal 9x19mm Parabellum cartridge, though variants in .40 S&W and .357 SIG were also offered as those calibers were developed in 1990 and 1994, respectively. According to its listing on The Golden Closet, James Gandolfini’s screen-used P226 was chambered in 9mm—as is common for film and TV productions—and had serial number U124-137, indicating that it was an early model likely manufactured in 1985.

Paulie and Silvio flank Tony as they take his lead in firing into their former friend. They honor his request not to be shot in the face but pop him full of nines before he can fulfill his second request of sitting down for his execution.

Paulie and Silvio flank Tony as they take his lead in firing into their former friend. They honor his request not to be shot in the face but pop him full of nines before he can fulfill his second request of sitting down for his execution.

(For what it’s worth, Paulie is armed with a Beretta 92FS pistol while Silvio carries a flashier matte stainless Smith & Wesson 5946 pistol. Photos of all three screen-used firearms, courtesy of The Golden Closet, can be found on IMFDB.)

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 2.13: "Funhouse")

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 2.13: “Funhouse”)

How to Get the Look

Tony Soprano dresses for another seagoing assassination in light silky layers that are contextually appropriate for an ostensible day of yachting as well as comfortably loose enough for a man whose guts are rebelling against him.

  • Black with X-patterned beige-and-slate brush-stroked maze square-printed silk short-sleeved shirt with camp collar and plain front
  • Beige silk raglan-sleeve Paul & Shark reversible “yachting jacket” with bomber-style ribbed-knit collar, cuffs, and hem, zippered fly-front with neck button and two waistband buttons, dark navy reversible shell lining, and slanted welt pockets
  • Charcoal reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black leather belt with silver-toned square single-prong buckle
  • Black calf leather apron-toe derby shoes
  • Black socks
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Rolex Day-Date “President” 18238 chronometer watch in 18-karat yellow gold with champagne-colored dial and “President” link bracelet
  • Gold curb-chain link bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with bypassing ruby and diamond stones
  • Gold wedding ring
  • Gold open-link chain necklace with round St. Jerome pendant

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the entire series, and follow my friend @TonySopranoStyle on Instagram! I also highly recommend The Sopranos Sessions as an essential reading companion for fans of the series.

The Quote

Why you makin’ me do this, you fat fuckin’ miserable piece of shit?

The Long Good Friday: Bob Hoskins’ White Striped Jacket

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Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand in The Long Good Friday (1980)

Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand in The Long Good Friday (1980)

Vitals

Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand, ambitious English gangster

London, Spring 1979

Film: The Long Good Friday
Release Date: November 3, 1980
Director: John Mackenzie
Costume Designer: Tudor George

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Today is Good Friday, a liturgical observance often overshadowed by Easter but certainly not overlooked in the world of British gangster cinema thanks to The Long Good Friday. Considered among the top 25 British movies ever made in separate polls by BFI and EmpireThe Long Good Friday has been a frequent request by BAMF Style readers including Dominic, Scott, and Wendi (and thank you, Wendi, for sending me the DVD copy used to source these screenshots!)

The title was intentionally chosen to suggest a tonal alignment with the works of Raymond Chandler, and our boisterous anti-hero, Harold Shand, would be a welcome presence in any noir. Specifically written for the actor, the role of Harold provided Bob Hoskins with his breakthrough performance as a London gangster seeking to take his enterprises in a legitimate direction, though he can’t outrun his criminal legacy as he finds his promising world collapsing among mob hits and bomb scares.

Together with the only person he can trust, the vivacious Victoria (Helen Mirren), Harold hosts a “hands across the ocean” party on his yacht to bring together his backers, ranging from the American Mafia to the crooked cops and city councilors who helped him rise to his position and are united in Harold’s entrepreneurial dream of building “a new London”:

Listen, sweetheart, I’m settin’ up the biggest deal in Europe with the hardest organization since Hitler stuck a swastika on his jockstrap!

What’d He Wear?

After Harold is picked up from the airport in a beige striped suit and printed gold silk tie, he changes into the more laidback springtime-appropriate outfit of an off-white striped sport jacket and open-neck shirt for an afternoon aboard his yacht with Victoria and their guests.

The creamy white sports coat is patterned with blue pinstripes and made from a napped cloth that may be a summer-weight woolen flannel, though I wouldn’t be surprised if cashmere was also part of the soft but structured jacket’s construction. The notch lapels are a restrained, moderate width, more consistent with the fashions of the following decade than the late ’70s production, and they roll to two ivory plastic buttons that mimic the small three-button cuffs at the end of each sleeve. Harold’s jacket has roped sleeveheads, a long single vent, a welted breast pocket, and patch pockets on the hips.

Victoria provides a charming diplomatic counter to Harold when dealing with his crooked colleagues.

Victoria provides a charming diplomatic counter to Harold when dealing with his crooked colleagues.

Harold’s light blue shirt has a sheen suggestive of silk, an appropriate shirting for a gangster suited to living the good life… and showing everyone else that he can afford it. The shirt has a long point collar, front placket, and breast pocket. Rather than double (French) cuffs, Harold’s shirt has squared single cuffs that are fastened with a set of double-faced gold chain-link cuff links.

Note the single layer of fabric comprising Harold's shirt cuffs, unlike the usual double cuffs worn with cuff links. Single cuffs are typically reserved for the most formal shirts worn with a white tie dress code.

Note the single layer of fabric comprising Harold’s shirt cuffs, unlike the usual double cuffs worn with cuff links. Single cuffs are typically reserved for the most formal shirts worn with a white tie dress code.

Harold counters his flashier jacket with subdued trousers in a dark slate blue, though the flared bottoms are a concession to ’70s fashion trends.

His black leather belt has a unique gold-toned buckle with a rounded horseshoe-shaped single-prong frame hinged through a half-moon gold piece on the end of the belt strap, similar to contemporary belts issued in the late 1970s by Italian luxury fashion houses like Ferragamo and Gucci. (Interestingly, the belt is seen worn with the half-moon gold piece positioned both to the left and the right, a continuity error that would occur due over several costume changes without paying attention to what direction the belt was fed through.)

Harold's belt.

Harold’s belt.

While Harold doesn’t match the color of his belt and shoe leather, he does coordinate their unique fashion-forwardness, sporting a pair of taupe leather plain-toe loafers with gold bit detailing and dark hard leather outsoles raised heels, an evolution of the original horsebit loafer that Gucci had pioneered in the 1950s.

Harold offers a tour to the American Mafioso Charlie (Eddie Constantine), who's dressed more like a conservative businessman while Harold's affected dress and accessories are more consistent with the image of a successful gangster.

Harold offers a tour to the American Mafioso Charlie (Eddie Constantine), who’s dressed more like a conservative businessman while Harold’s affected dress and accessories are more consistent with the image of a successful gangster.

On his right wrist, Harold wears a gold ID bracelet on a thick gold curb-chain link bracelet.

Cigarette in one hand, drink in the other, Harold greets the crowd he brought together as part of his "hands across the ocean" enterprise.

Cigarette in one hand, drink in the other, Harold greets the crowd he brought together as part of his “hands across the ocean” enterprise.

Harold wears more gold on his left hand as well, including a signet ring on his pinky. His digital quartz watch, is also gold-plated with a black display panel and green LED “always-on” display. (For additional looks at the watch, I invite horology enthusiasts who don’t mind potential spoilers to click here and here.)

Based on the shape of the case with its four gold pushers, display layout, and the gold-finished expanding band, I suspect that Harold’s watch is either a Seiko or Timex digital chronograph, specifically the 1970s version of the gold-finished stainless watch that would evolve into the modern Men’s T78677 Indiglo watch still available and affordable today (via Amazon). Of course, Harold couldn’t have worn an Indiglo as that technology wasn’t introduced until 1986, and it would have been a simple “Alarm Chronograph” (like this vintage Timex on eBay) dressing his wrist.

Modern viewers may be surprised by the status-obsessed Harold's choice to wear a digital watch, but it's important to remember that this was filmed in 1979, a time when digital watches were hot technology with even James Bond wearing them exclusively.

Modern viewers may be surprised by the status-obsessed Harold’s choice to wear a digital watch, but it’s important to remember that this was filmed in 1979, a time when digital watches were hot technology with even James Bond wearing them exclusively.

Note that Hoskins is definitely not wearing the striped jacket in the above screenshot. Instead, after finding out that his allies are getting killed, Harold changes into a more functional beige suede raglan-sleeve blouson as he heads out with his remaining men to find answers.

The hip-length, zip-up blouson has a flat collar and single-button cuffs. The four external pockets consist of two bellows pockets on the chest that each close with a two-button flap with welted side-entry hand pockets just below them.

Clad for work rather than play, Harold confers with his crooked cop pal Parky (Dave King).

Clad for work rather than play, Harold confers with his crooked cop pal Parky (Dave King).

Harold would wear this jacket again for most action the following day, though with a green printed shirt and light beige trousers.

What to Imbibe

Yeah, Barbara’s got really religious in her old age, isn’t she? Church three times today, it’s Good Friday! Have a Bloody Mary.

Harold and Victoria prepare for their soiree by pre-gaming with a Bloody Mary each, poured from a pitcher that Harold wisely keeps within arm’s length. Also within arm’s length are the ostensible ingredients, including the requisite vodka—Smirnoff, in this case—as well as Worcestershire sauce, and… Angostura bitters?

While celery bitters are often recommended for Bloody Marys, I’d never thought of Angostura as a potential ingredient until I saw it on Harold’s bar cart. Sure enough, the Angostura site includes a recipe they christen “Bloody & Bitter” that combines gin (or rum!) and tomato juice with a blend of fascinating ingredients including mango nectar, tamarind chutney, and a quarter-ounce of Angostura bitters for what must make for a fascinating flavor profile. This is most assuredly not what Harold’s drinking, but it could be a worthy alternative to consider.

For something a little more traditional, these Bloody Mary recipes from Food Network and Sify Bawarchi call for a touch of Angostura bitters into a balance of vodka and tomato juice, supplemented by the usual Worcestershire, hot sauce, salt and pepper, and lemon.

Of course, the Bloody Mary’s charm derives from just how much it can be customized to tailor one’s tastes with any assortment of options—typically on the savory side—considered to be acceptable additions from cayenne pepper and clam juice to cheese cubes and even raw oysters. (Click here to see your humble blogger enjoying one boasting shrimp at Harry’s Grill in Anna Maria Island, Florida, last month!) As written in the Mr. Boston Official Bartender’s Guide, “the Bloody Mary has essentially become the ‘meat loaf’ of cocktails. Almost anything goes as long as it’s recognizable in the end.”

After Harold fills Victoria's glass, he disregards her advice to "lay off the vodka" when he pours more Smirnoff directly into his Bloody Mary.

After Harold fills Victoria’s glass, he disregards her advice to “lay off the vodka” when he pours more Smirnoff directly into his Bloody Mary.

Fortified by their vodka and tomato juice, Harold and Victoria are ready to greet their party guests, serving plenty of Moët & Chandon Imperial Brut champagne.

The Moët & Chandon champagne house was established by French vintner Claude Moët in 1743 and remains one of the largest and most prestigious champagne producers more than 275 years later. The Imperial Brut champagne was first bottled in the 1860s and quickly became Moët’s best-selling brand.

Cheers!

Cheers!

Finally, when the going gets tough, Harold and his inner circle retreat to his office on the yacht, where he keeps a bottle of Teacher’s Highland Cream blended Scotch whisky.

The whisky’s appellation refers not to any origins in the world of education but rather to the family of William Teacher, who started selling whisky in 1830. After William’s death, his sons took charge of the company, registering the brand in 1884 and opening a distillery in Ardmore in 1898 to ensure having a supply of smoked peat single malt whisky to include in its signature blend. The following century saw introduction to a post-Prohibition American market and a series of mergers and acquisitions that has landed the modern Teachers’ Highland Cream brand among the vaulted lineup of spirits owned by the Beam Suntory subsidiary.

How to Get the Look

Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand in The Long Good Friday (1980)

Bob Hoskins as Harold Shand in The Long Good Friday (1980)

Though a proudly British gangster, Harold Shand has a clear Italian influence in his dress, from his fashion-forward leather-wear to his gold jewelry and accessories.

  • Cream (with blue pinstripes) napped cashmere/flannel-blend single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and long single vent
  • Light blue silk shirt with long point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and single cuffs
    • Gold chain-link cuff links
  • Dark slate blue flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt with unique gold-toned horseshoe-shaped single-prong buckle with half-moon frame extension
  • Taupe leather plain-toe bit loafers
  • Dark socks
  • Gold ID bracelet with curb chain-link bracelet
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Dgital quartz chronograph watch with gold-finished stainless steel case, black display panel, and green LED “always-on” display on 18mm expansion band

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

You don’t go crucifyin’ people outside of church, not on Good Friday!

Apollo 13: Gene Kranz’s Famous White Vest

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Ed Harris as Gene Kranz in Apollo 13 (1995)

Ed Harris as Gene Kranz in Apollo 13 (1995)

Vitals

Ed Harris as Gene Kranz, determined, no-nonsense NASA flight director

Houston, Texas, April 1970

Film: Apollo 13
Release Date: June 30, 1995
Director: Ron Howard
Costume Designer: Rita Ryack

Background

Okay, Houston, we’ve had a problem here…

Apollo 13 astronaut Jack Swigert first transmitted this famous (and oft-misquoted) message 50 years ago today at 3:08 AM (GMT) on Tuesday, April 14, 1970, soon repeated by the mission commander Jim Lovell: “Uh, Houston, we’ve had a problem.” (At the Apollo Mission Control Center in Houston, it was still 10:08 PM on Monday, April 13.)

The craft had launched three days prior from Kennedy Space Center, manned by Swigert, Fred Haise, and mission commander Jim Lovell. The mission was intended to be the third of the American space program that would land on the Moon until the notorious “problem”—an explosion resulting from a failed oxygen tank in the service module—forced the three-man crew and their mission controllers in Houston to improvise solutions that ultimately resulted in the three astronauts safely returning to Earth, splashing down in the South Pacific on April 17 when they were swiftly met by a U.S. Navy recovery team.

While Apollo 13 was technically unsuccessful in its initial objective of a lunar landing, the mission and its outcome have been deemed “a successful failure” due to how different individuals, teams, and departments were able to work together in as tight timeframe to solve the almost-impossible task of bringing the three astronauts home safely, requiring not only the best efforts of Lovell, Haise, and Swigert, but also ingenuity and dedication from the Mission Control team centered in Houston under the “tough and competent” leadership of flight director Gene Kranz.

Gene Kranz (center, in white vest) celebrates Apollo 13's successful splashdown on April 17, 1970.

Gene Kranz (center, in white vest) celebrates Apollo 13’s successful splashdown on April 17, 1970.

A father of six by the time he coordinated Apollo 13’s safe return, Kranz had served his first shift as NASA Flight Director during the Gemini IV mission in 1965 when astronaut Ed White became the first American to walk in space. Kranz, his Mission Control team, and the three astronauts would all be awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom later in 1970, and the flight director himself would be ranked the second most popular space hero, behind only Neil Armstrong, in a 2010 Space Foundation survey.

Famous for his cool head under pressure as well as his white homemade vests, Kranz would be portrayed by Ed Harris in Apollo 13, the 1995 blockbuster acclaimed for its realism and nominated for nine Academy Awards, including Best Supporting Actor for Harris’ performance. (Harris’ first foray into space cinema was his early role as John Glenn in 1983’s The Right Stuff.)

What’d He Wear?

“Mrs. Kranz has pulled out the old needle and thread again,” Jerry Bostick (Ray McKinnon) comments to a colleague when a package arrives for Gene Kranz at Mission Control in Houston on launch day. “The last one looked like he bought it off a gypsy,” the man responds.

“Thank you, Tom,” Kranz receives the package. “I was starting to get worried.” From the tissue paper, Kranz pulls out a neatly folded white waistcoat, already decorated with the Apollo 13 mission badge. “I like that one, Gene!” he hears from a fellow Mission Control engineer as he holds the vest up for inspection, eventually donning it to great applause from his team. “Save it for splashdown, guys,” the humble leader responds with a smirk.

Gene Kranz straightens out his newest waistcoat minutes before the launch of Apollo 13. Note that he correctly wears the bottom button undone.

Gene Kranz straightens out his newest waistcoat minutes before the launch of Apollo 13. Note that he correctly wears the bottom button undone.

The real Gene Kranz's off-white faille vest. (Source: SmithsonianMag.com. Photo credit: Eric Long.)

The real Gene Kranz’s off-white faille vest. (Source: SmithsonianMag.com. Photo credit: Eric Long.)

In the five years that Gene Kranz had served as NASA flight director leading up to Apollo 13, the vests handsewn for him by his wife Marta had become his trademark, continuing her previous tradition of making scarves for pilots in Kranz’s Air Force squadrons.

“All the wives sewed, and I began making vests for Gene,” Marta Kranz recalled in an April 2010 article by Owen Edwards for Smithsonian Magazine. “Gene wanted some kind of symbol for his team to rally around. I suggested a vest… There were three Mission Control teams—red, white and blue—and Gene’s was the white team, so his vests were always white.”

Kranz recognized that his vest was “an immediate hit” when he first wore one for Gemini IV. “From then on, I put on a new vest on the first shift of every mission.”

Photos from other missions depict Kranz celebrating splashdowns in more colorful waistcoats—such as this one in a patriotic red, white, and blue sequined stripe for the final lunar mission, Apollo 17—but the uncertainty of the Apollo 13 result kept the stoic flight director in his white vest through the end. Several of Kranz’s mission vests have been sold among other pieces of memorabilia from his storied career, though the white faille vest from Apollo 13 remains proudly displayed at the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum (as seen at right).

To recreate Kranz’s famous Apollo 13 vest for the movie, Rita Ryack’s costume design team turned to the best source possible: Marta Kranz. After nearly 30 swatches of sample fabrics were sent to Marta to evaluate, a discovery in a film warehouse yielded the appropriate off-white faille. With the Marta-approved material in hand, the costume team got to work, crafting the single-breasted, five-button waistcoat with its uniquely dog-eared pocket flaps and the creamy tonal-striped back lining, patterned with small diamonds among the striping, with its adjustable back strap.

As the crew of Apollo 13 prepare for reentry and splashdown, Kranz tidies up his appearance, fastening his tab collar and tightening his tie. He was never seen without his trademark white vest throughout the duration of the mission.

As the crew of Apollo 13 prepare for reentry and splashdown, Kranz tidies up his appearance, fastening his tab collar and tightening his tie. He was never seen without his trademark white vest throughout the duration of the mission.

Worn on the left side of Kranz’s vest was a replica button of the distinctive Apollo 13 mission badge, designed by New York artist Lumen Winter with artwork completed by Manned Spacecraft Center (MSC) artist Norman Tiller.

Originally conceptualized by Lovell himself, the patch features three horses crossing the sky above the Earth to symbolize the three-person crews of the Apollo program. In addition to “APOLLO XIII” in white across the top with “EX LUNA, SCIENTIA” along the bottom. As Lovell explains, this Latin translation for “From the Moon, knowledge,” referenced the Naval Academy’s “Ex scientia, tridens” motto, meaning “Through knowledge, seapower.” Notably, this was the only Apollo mission badge to omit the names of the crew; fortuitous, as the last-minute replacement of Ken Mattingly with the measles-immune Jack Swigert would have rendered the badge inaccurate.

APOLLO 13

The film’s Gene Kranz rises about the oft-chided NASA engineer “uniform” of short-sleeved shirts and ties, wearing long-sleeved shirts with tab collars though he often unsnaps the tab after a long day commanding the White Team. (He wears his ID badge clipped to the breast pockets of his shirts, mostly concealed by the vest.)

Even when a tie is worn appropriately tightened to the neck, an unfastened tab collar can be a jarring effect. Kranz likely opted for snap-tabs rather than button-tabs as these could be more quickly fastened or unfastened with one hand, saving time and dexterity for a busy man with many conflicting priorities at one time.

Even when a tie is worn appropriately tightened to the neck, an unfastened tab collar can be a jarring effect. Kranz likely opted for snap-tabs rather than button-tabs as these could be more quickly fastened or unfastened with one hand, saving time and dexterity for a busy man with many conflicting priorities at one time.

Okay, guys… we’re goin’ to the Moon!

For the first day of the Apollo 13 mission, April 11, 1970, Kranz dresses in a characteristically patriotic color scheme that would become familiar over the week to follow, never deviating from a palette of red, white, and blue with gray accents.

Apropos his leadership of the designated “White Team”, Kranz wears a white shirt with a snap-closed tab collar, front placket, breast pocket, and single-button cuffs. His navy tie is patterned with sets of four “downhill”-direction stripes that alternate between gray and red. A silver horizontal tie clasp is clipped onto the tie, though not onto the shirt so it merely adds weight to the tie without serving the function of keeping the tie from swinging freely. This would mark the last appearance of both this tie and tie clasp.

Day 1: Kranz at the controls.

Day 1: Kranz at the controls.

Let’s work the problem, people. Let’s not make things worse by guessin’.

Kranz’s White Team is back on duty on the evening of April 13, working well into the following day to try to solve the problem reported aboard Apollo 13. Kranz wears a pale blue shirt that more notably contrasts under the off-white fabric of his vest. Styled the same as his white shirt, Kranz is always seen wearing this shirt with the cuffs unbuttoned and rolled up his forearms and his tab collar unsnapped, though he also loosens his tie and unbuttons his collar once the getting gets even tougher.

The flight director wears another patriotically striped repp tie, patterned with balanced burgundy and gray block stripes against a navy ground with a thin white stripe bordering the bottom of each gray stripe.

Day 4: NASA may have the technology to send humans into space, onto the moon, and back, but their overhead projectors leave some functionality to be desired. Rather than waiting for a fix, Kranz rolls up the screen and uses chalk on the blackboard to formulate a plan to coordinate Lovell, Haise, and Swigert's safe return.

Day 4: NASA may have the technology to send humans into space, onto the Moon, and back, but their overhead projectors leave some functionality to be desired. Rather than waiting for a fix, Kranz rolls up the screen and uses chalk on the blackboard to formulate a plan to coordinate Lovell, Haise, and Swigert’s safe return.

With all due respect, sir, I believe this is going to be our finest hour.

Picking up with Mission Control on April 15, Kranz is wearing the same tie as he had the past few days, though with a clean white shirt that goes through plenty of rumpling and wrinkling as he continues to wear this same outfit over the following three days until the astronauts are safely back home. In fact, it’s likely that changing into this new shirt between April 14 and 15 was the only variation in Kranz’s attire from the night of the “problem” until the reentry on April 17.

Aside from the first day of the mission (and certain continuity errors), Kranz wears a gold-toned tie clasp in an elongated hexagonal shape with three descending rectangles against a cream “zig-zag” enamel filling.

Kranz takes his job and professional appearance seriously and is depicted taking a brief moment on the 17th to tighten his tie, refasten his collar and cuffs, and button up his vest for the moment of truth as the Odyssey command module reentered the Earth’s atmosphere.

Day 7: Kranz celebrates with the White Team after a job well done.

Day 7: Kranz celebrates with the White Team after a job well done.

Each day in the office, Kranz wears a pair of dark navy flat front trousers with frogmouth front pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms that break over his black leather shoes.

We rarely see any of Kranz’s shoes, but they appear to be cap-toe oxfords in a black leather that coordinates with his belt, which closes through a rectangular silver-toned box-frame buckle.

Tense moments at Mission Control in Houston with little to do but wait.

Tense moments at Mission Control in Houston with little to do but wait.

On his right wrist, Kranz wears a nickel-plated POW/MIA bracelet. This is a slight anachronism as these commemorative bracelets were not developed until later in 1970 by the California student group Voices in Vital America (VIVA), but they serve as an illustrative indicator of Kranz’s patriotism and dedication to bringing Americans home at all costs.

The name etched on Kranz’s memorial bracelet is LTC Harrison Klinck with the date 11/1/67. According to HonorStates.org, Harrison Hoyt Klinck was born in Los Angeles and joined the U.S. Air Force, rising to the rank of lieutenant colonel during the Vietnam War. A member of the 469th Tactical Fighter Squadron, the Thunderchief Fighter (F-105D) he was flying crashed on a mission over North Vietnam on November 19, 1967 (suggesting that the bracelet’s etched date of “11/1/67” is an error.) Lieutenant Colonel Klinck’s remains were recovered in August 1985 and identified two months later. A commissioned fighter pilot in the U.S. Air Force, Kranz may have felt a kinship with the fellow USAF aviator.

Ed Harris reportedly based Gene Kranz's quietly emotional reaction on how the real Kranz reacted when recalling his emotions at the time of the successful reentry. It's perhaps significant that this scene, celebrating the safe return of three American heroes presumed missing forever, provides the clearest shot of Kranz's POW/MIA bracelet honoring another missing American hero.

Ed Harris reportedly based Gene Kranz’s quietly emotional reaction on how the real Kranz reacted when recalling his emotions at the time of the successful reentry. It’s perhaps significant that this scene, celebrating the safe return of three American heroes presumed missing forever, provides the clearest shot of Kranz’s POW/MIA bracelet honoring another missing American hero.

While NASA astronauts were famously equipped with Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” chronographs since their official authorization in March 1965, Kranz was a land-based engineer with no need for an expensive wristwatch that could survive in orbit. Yet, precision was still essential to his work and his timepiece would need to serve him without fail in a role where every second counts. The real-life Kranz wore a Seiko 5 6119-8460 Sports Diver throughout his NASA career, including the Apollo 11 lunar landing and the Apollo 13 rescue.

As Kranz, Ed Harris wears a cushion-cased steel dive watch with a blue-and-red “Pepsi” bezel on a tapered steel three-piece link bracelet. While likely not a ref. 6119-8460 like the real Kranz wore, Harris’ watch indeed appears to be a Seiko automatic diver, likely the Seiko 6139-6002 “Pepsi Pogue” with its 41mm cushion case and two pusher buttons at the 2:00 and 4:00 positions. The dark blue dial with its 3:00 day-date window and 6:00 sub-register suggests that this was the AH001M model, which retailed for $100 in 1969 according to this catalog listing.

Though not the same model as the real Gene Kranz wore, Ed Harris' period-correct Seiko in Apollo 13 still has associations with the American space program.

Though not the same model as the real Gene Kranz wore, Ed Harris’ period-correct Seiko 6139-6002 in Apollo 13 still has associations with the American space program.

The “Pepsi Pogue” received its nickname from Colonel William Pogue, one of “the original 19” from NASA Astronaut Group 5 (which also included Haise, Mattingly, and Swigert), who wore his personal yellow-dialed Seiko 6139-6002 AH035M as pilot of the Skylab 4 mission from November 1973 through February 1974, despite it never being formally approved for mission use. Now dubbed “the first automatic chronograph in space” as the NASA-approved Omegas were manual-winding, the identity of Colonel Pogue’s Seiko wasn’t confirmed until 2007, more than a decade after it was coincidentally chosen to dress Ed Harris’ wrist in Apollo 13.

Vintage Seiko “Pepsi Pogues” can be found at online auctions or retailers like Barnebys, Chrono24, and eBay. Production of the original Seiko 6139-6002 ended around the late 1970s, though Seiko has evolved to keep similarly styled watches among its offerings like the automatic Seiko 5 Sports SNZF15 (via Amazon). If you’re interested in a true original Seiko 6139, I recommend this highly informative collector’s guide from The Spring Bar.

On the third finger of his left hand, Gene wears a silver-toned wedding band to signify his marriage to Marta, the talented vestmaker.

The Archer Connection

Gene Kranz’s famous off-white waistcoat would be revived in popular culture on the FX animated sitcom Archer when the spy agency analyst Ray Gillette (voiced by Adam Reed) dons his own in the episodes “Skytanic” (Episode 1.07) and “Tragical History” (Episode 2.06), referring to it as his “crisis vest”. The Kranz connection goes a step further as Ray wears a blue “ISIS” badge, referring to the series’ fictional spy agency (not the real-life terrorist organization!)

Ray Gillette channels Gene Kranz as he debuts his "crisis vest" in the Archer episode "Skytanic" (Episode 1.07).

Ray Gillette channels Gene Kranz as he debuts his “crisis vest” in the Archer episode “Skytanic” (Episode 1.07).

How to Get the Look

Ed Harris as Gene Kranz in Apollo 13 (1995)

Ed Harris as Gene Kranz in Apollo 13 (1995)

The real Gene Kranz adopted homemade white vests that became his symbolic sartorial signature, worn over his shirts and ties in the NASA Mission Control room. What’s your style signature?

  • White or pale blue cotton shirt with snap-tab collar, front placket, breast pocket, and single-button cuffs
  • Navy striped repp tie with balanced burgundy and gray “downhill” stripes with white bottom border striping
  • Off-white faille single-breasted waistcoat with five pearlesque buttons, irregular-flapped hip pockets, notched bottom, and cream diamond-patterned tonal-striped back lining with adjustable strap
  • Dark navy flat front trousers with belt loops, frogmouth front pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt with silver rectangular box-type buckle
  • Black leather cap-toe oxfords
  • Nickel-plated POW/MIA bracelet
  • White gold wedding band
  • Stainless steel cushion-cased dive watch with blue-and-red “Pepsi” bezel, blue dial with 3:00 day-date window and 6:00 sub-second register, and steel three-piece link bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

We’ve never lost an American in space; we’re sure as hell not going to lose one on my watch. Failure is not an option.


Frank Sinatra’s Orange Cardigan

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Frank Sinatra, photographed for the April 23, 1965 cover of LIFE magazine by John Dominis. The same cardigan would appear in Marriage on the Rocks (1965), released five months later.

Frank Sinatra, photographed for the April 23, 1965 cover of LIFE magazine by John Dominis. The same cardigan would appear in Marriage on the Rocks (1965), released five months later.

Vitals

Frank Sinatra as Dan Edwards, workaholic advertising executive

Los Angeles, Fall 1965

Film: Marriage on the Rocks
Release Date: September 24, 1965
Director: Jack Donohue
Costume Designer: Walter Plunkett

Background

On this #SinatraSaturday, we celebrate the famous singer’s favorite color by commemorating his appearance on the cover of LIFE magazine 55 years ago this week when he was photographed by John Dominis in an orange cardigan, white turtleneck, and houndstooth trilby for a cover story titled “Sinatra Opens Up”.

Around the same time, Frank Sinatra was filming the amusing ’60s romp Marriage on the Rocks with his friends and occasional co-stars Dean Martin and Deborah Kerr. The movie also provided Nancy Sinatra with her first opportunity to act opposite her father, playing his daughter on-screen as well. (The original title was Divorce American Style until Cy Howard’s original screenplay was deemed too offensive, resulting in rewrites under the title Community Property before all settled on the Rat Pack-friendly title Marriage on the Rocks.)

Sinatra stars as Dan Edwards, a career-focused ad man whose marriage is on the proverbial rocks due tot he lack of passion he’s put into his 19 years with the vivacious Valerie (Kerr). His best pal and business partner is the smooth playboy Ernie Brewer (Dino, of course), who envies the security of Dan’s home life… though not enough to voluntarily give up his swinging bachelor lifestyle with what Dan describes as “the best collection of dames in town!”

Mix-ups and misunderstandings during Dan and Val’s attempt at a second honeymoon in Mexico results in a quickie divorce and even quicker marriage that finds Valerie now legally wed to Ernie, much to the avowed bachelor’s dismay. Dan, fed up with the drama in his previous life, welcomes the freedom from responsibility that comes with assuming Ernie’s bachelor lifestyle, complete with a beachfront pad and bevies of broads.

What’d He Wear?

“Orange, he adored,” writes Bill Zehme in The Way You Wear Your Hat: Frank Sinatra and the Lost Art of Livin’. “‘Orange is the happiest color,’ he said whenever he saw it. His homes and offices and airplane interiors were awash in it. Orange birds of paradise filled flower vases everywhere around him. He loved to wear orange sweaters, orange bathing trunks, orange sport shirts, and orange oxford-cloth shirts.”

After spending much of Marriage on the Rocks in shades of gray flannel suits, Dan Edwards is finally given the chance to live a life without the responsibilities of work and home that have kept him so buttoned-up. Frank Sinatra himself undoubtedly had a hand in choosing Dan’s wardrobe for his “liberation”, wearing several orange pieces that signify the unbridled happiness of Dan’s brief foray into relative freedom as a bachelor.

The most prominently seen is a soft orange ribbed knit wool cardigan with six flat white sew-through buttons up the front, a straight-cut hem, and long raglan sleeves that Sinatra folds back once at each cuff. There are square patch pockets on the hips, each reinforced with a non-ribbed strip across the top.

Five months before Marriage on the Rocks was released, LIFE magazine readers would have seen Ol’ Blue Eyes wearing the same sweater on the cover of the April 23, 1965, issue as photographed by John Dominis. For this photo shoot, Sinatra wore the cardigan over a white lightweight thinly ribbed turtleneck sweater with a brown-and-beige houndstooth tweed trilby.

An additional shot from the Dominis photo shoot.

An additional shot from the Dominis photo shoot.

In Marriage on the Rocks, Sinatra’s Dan Edwards wears the singer’s own orange cardigan for the brief vignette set in Ernie’s beach house when Ernie himself swings by to get a glimpse of his old pal living the bachelor lifestyle. Dan wears the cardigan over an ecru cotton shirt with a plain front and point collar, worn open at the neck.

Dan refuses to admit Ernie—or at least any more than Ernie's forearm—into his own home.

“No married men allowed!”
Dan refuses to admit Ernie—or at least any more than Ernie’s forearm—into his own home.

Dan moves back over to the fire pit to take a seat among the trio of beauties joining him that fall evening, and we see that he’s wearing copper brown flat front trousers, one of the few pieces of warm-toned clothing in the ad man’s otherwise conservative wardrobe. The trousers likely have side-adjusters, either buttons or buckle-tabs, as well as on-seam side pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms that slightly flare out over his black leather loafers and black ribbed socks.

A quiet night in for Dan and his dates.

A quiet night in for Dan and his dates.

The cardigan isn’t the last we see of “liberated” Dan’s orange wardrobe in Marriage on the Rocks. When Ernie agrees to accompany Val to the Cafe a Go-Go, the erstwhile Mrs. Edwards is horrified to see her ex-husband dancing with his new girlfriend Lisa (Davey Davison) in the cage he had once derided. Dan wears a pale yellow double-cuff shirt and black tie under his orange single-breasted, three-button sports coat with welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, two-button cuffs, and double vents that gave Ol’ Blue Eyes a little more mobility as he kept his jacket fastened at the center button throughout his, er, performance.

Sinatra may not sing in Marriage on the Rocks, but he still dances!

Sinatra may not sing in Marriage on the Rocks, but he still dances!

The next time we see Dan, he’s dropping his young son David (Michael Petit) off with his mother for Thanksgiving dinner. Sitting at the wheel of his four-door Lincoln Continental convertible, Dan looks cool and casual in an orange two-button polo shirt with the collar worn over the short standing collar of his tobacco brown suede jacket.

Behind-the-scenes photography of Sinatra with George Barris, who had designed the custom zebra-striped Mustang driven by Tracy’s boyfriend Jim (Tony Bill), shows that the jacket has side pockets and a touch of elasticity on the side hems. He wears brown trousers and brown leather shoes with this outfit.

Dan's final dash of on-screen orange comes by way of a polo worn during Marriage on the Rocks' final act.

Dan’s final dash of on-screen orange comes by way of a polo worn during Marriage on the Rocks‘ final act.

Sinatra wears his usual gold signet ring on his left pinky and a gold tank-style watch with a black leather strap on the same wrist.

How to Get the Look

Frank Sinatra as Dan Edwards in Marriage on the Rocks (1965)

Frank Sinatra as Dan Edwards in Marriage on the Rocks (1965)

Given his love for orange, Frank Sinatra would no doubt bless any way that this bold color was injected into one’s wardrobe to signify happiness, though the cardigan he wore for John Dominis’ LIFE magazine cover shoot and his subsequent appearance in Marriage on the Rocks is a comfortable place to start.

  • Orange soft ribbed knit wool six-button raglan-sleeve cardigan sweater with hip pockets
  • Ecru cotton long-sleeved shirt with point collar, plain front, and button cuffs
  • Copper brown flat front trousers with side adjusters, on-seam side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather penny loafers
  • Black ribbed socks
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Gold tank watch on black leather strap

Orange knitwear isn’t the most popular menswear offering at the moment so, aside from a few retailers like Uniqlo with this now out-of-stock (as of April 2020) lambswool cardigan, your best bet would be to seek out something vintage. I spotted a few reasonably priced examples on eBay from Huntley of York, Izod, Sears, and United Colors of Benetton, all produced between the 1960s and 1990s.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. Sinatra sartorialists would also be well-advised to check out Bill Zehme’s volume The Way You Wear Your Hat: Frank Sinatra and the Lost Art of Livin’, and I remain eternally grateful to BAMF Style reader Teeritz for providing my own copy several years ago.

The Office: Florida Stanley

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Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson on The Office (Episode 8.15: "Tallahassee")

Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson on The Office (Episode 8.15: “Tallahassee”)

Vitals

Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson, bored paper company salesman

Tallahassee, Florida, Late February 2012

Series: The Office
Episode: “Tallahassee” (Episode 8.15)
Air Date: February 16, 2012
Director: Matt Sohn
Creator: Greg Daniels
Costume Designer: Alysia Raycraft

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Thanks to a “Celebrate Every Day” calendar I received from my girlfriend marking quirky observances throughout the year, I’m privileged to know that April 26 is celebrated as National Pretzel Day. And, of course, hearing the words “pretzel day” should remind most people of one man in particular:

"I like pretzel day." - Stanley Hudson

While there’s little that’s significant or interesting about how Stanley Hudson dresses for day after excruciating day racking up sales (or, more often, crossword puzzle victories), we see a whole different side of the banal salesman when he successfully campaigns to join a select team from his office for an extended business trip to Florida.

Florida Stanley smiles. Florida Stanley is happy to go to work. Florida Stanley is who you want on your Florida team.

After eight seasons of watching the unmotivated Stanley languishing under mid-level mismanagement in the florescent hellscape of Dunder Mifflin’s Scranton branch, the month-long trip brings out more animation than we’ve ever seen from Stanley… even on Pretzel Day! The transformation is most obvious for fellow salesman Jim Halpert (John Krasinski), who is nonplussed when Stanley pulls up to their hotel in a cherry red Camaro convertible, sporting a woven hemp trilby and tropical-printed shirt as he enjoys a cigar.

Jim: Whoa, Stanley… did you just come back from burning down a rival nightclub?
Stanley: Laugh it up, Halpert. I’m in Florida for a month without my family. I’m gonna enjoy this!

Jim may have been the office’s laidback prankster for the majority of the series, but Stanley rapidly rises to become an unlikely candidate for Jim’s role model for his refusal to let professional obligations get in the way of enjoying rum, music, and a well-earned nap during the opening session of a work conference.

“I’ve spent so much of my life telling myself, ‘please, don’t end up like Stanley’,” Jim confesses to the camera, adding, “and now I’m wondering if I even have what it takes!”

What’d He Wear?

When making his case at the office in the previous episode, “Special Project” (Episode 8.14), Stanley takes a page from the Miami Vice stylebook to make his case as a member of the Florida team with a white cotton two-button jacket worn over a hot pink crew-neck T-shirt that coordinates with his pink patterned silk pocket square and the pink puggaree band on his short-brimmed trilby made of natural straw, a lighter and more structured hat than he would actually wear in Florida.

More like Stanley Crockett.

More like Stanley Crockett.

“If anybody’s goin’ to Florida, it should be me. Every shirt I have that isn’t a work shirt is a Tommy Bahama. I’m the only person in this office who watches Burn Notice,” argued Stanley in “Special Project”, and he puts his money where his mouth is when the selected Dunder Mifflin contingent actually arrives in Tallahassee, spending the following two episodes bedecked exclusively in tropical-printed camp shirts that are undoubtedly Tommy Bahama products.

The most prominently featured of Stanley’s Aloha shirts gets its airtime in “Tallahassee” (Episode 8.15) during Stanley’s brief arc as Jim’s idle idol. A large green, yellow, and brown palm leaf print covers a cream diamond-textured ground. The silk shirt has a camp collar, elbow-length short sleeves, faux-coconut buttons on a plain front, and a matching breast pocket outlined by white contrast top-stitching. (As of March 2020, a very similar Tommy Bahama “Hawaiian leaves”-printed silk shirt is available on eBay!)

Cathy Simms (Lindsey Broad) may be vying for Jim's attention, but the married salesman is solely focused on Stanley... or at least the person Stanley becomes when he's set loose in Florida.

Cathy Simms (Lindsey Broad) may be vying for Jim’s attention, but the married salesman is solely focused on Stanley… or at least the person Stanley becomes when he’s set loose in Florida.

Stanley wears his usual pleated khakis that he would normally wear with a sport jacket and tie to the office. His brown shoes appear to be the clunky-looking slip-ons with heavy synthetic soles that, for better or worse, grew popular over the last few decades among the American “business casual” set. These loafers depart from traditional styles like the penny, tassel, or Venetian loafer for a relaxed-looking hybrid that often touts its shock-absorbing comfort technology systems to provide a footwear experience more akin to sneakers. Befitting their audience segments, these hybrid shoes tend to be the specialty of lower-priced brands like Clarks, Dockers, ECCO, Rockport, and Skechers. (We know Stanley is a Rockport wearer as a pair of Leslie David Baker’s screen-worn size 11WX black square-toed Rockport derbies were auctioned after production wrapped.)

Stanley makes no effort to hide the fact that he spends the entirety of Nellie Bertram's opening session listening to his iPod.

Stanley makes no effort to hide the fact that he spends the entirety of Nellie Bertram’s opening session listening to his iPod.

Channeling mid-century bon vivants who summered in the tropics with Panama hats topping their linen-suited kits, Stanley embraces the relaxed vibe of a tan Toyo straw short-brimmed trilby while in Florida, detailed with a tropical puggaree band in a static-like print in shades of green and yellow that echo his Tommy Bahama shirts. (Compared to the lighter, more structured hat he wears in Scranton, this rice paper hat more resembles the inexpensive headgear offered at stores like Walmart.)

The short brim of Stanley’s hat wouldn’t do much to shield his eyes from the sun, so he takes care of that with a pair of tortoise Persol sunglasses with large square frames similar to the Persol PO3135S in “Havana” acetate (via Amazon and Persol).

FLORIDA STANLEY

Stanley wears a large polished rose gold watch on his left wrist on a burgundy leather strap. The round black dial appears to be detailed with gold non-numeric hour markers and either decorative rings or gold-outlined sub-registers at 1:00 and 7:00.

While it’s decidedly not either of these watches, there are some similarities between Stanley’s timepiece and this Citizen BU2013-08E Eco-Drive and this Vincero “The Chrono S”, both in rose gold-finished steel.

Jim picks a seat next to his new idol Stanley in "Tallahassee".

Jim picks a seat next to his new idol Stanley in “Tallahassee”.

After the end of Dunder Mifflin Scranton’s first week in Florida, we can again spy Stanley among the seminar attendees in “After Hours” (Episode 8.16), sporting a different Aloha shirt—likely another Tommy Bahama—in azul blue silk with a pattern of orange flowers with green leaves. This shirt isn’t seen as clearly due to Stanley’s limited screen time during this scene, which the serene smile on his face indicates is just fine with him. (This colorway approach was evidently quite popular with Tommy Bahama as they issued quite a variety with this scheme; you can find an abundance of floral blue shirts on eBay as of March 2020, such as here, here, here, here, and here.)

FLORIDA STANLEY

By the end of that first week, however, Jim’s fandom appears to be waning as he tells us: “I thought I was going to be hanging out more with Stanley on this trip, but he’s turned out to be kind of a loose cannon.” Jim’s point is punctuated as Stanley, in his third Aloha shirt—printed in a yellow-and-pink floral pattern on a black ground—pulls his Camaro aside two women in a Fiat 500 and propositions them for a night out.

"My friend and I are new here in Tallahassee. Would you like to get a cocktail? Maybe go out for a little dancin'? Beautiful day, no?"

“My friend and I are new here in Tallahassee. Would you like to get a cocktail? Maybe go out for a little dancin’? Beautiful day, no?”

A Reddit theory suggests that the blonde in the Fiat is the one that Stanley is seen drinking with at the hotel bar before escorting her back to his room. We see a clear contrast between Stanley’s bright floral day prints and his more subdued evening look. His fourth and final “Florida shirt” is a soft silky black microfiber camp shirt with a subtle floral pattern stitched on the upper left chest and on the lower right hip, just above the hem.

Stanley, proven to be no stranger to extramarital relations, spies Cathy making herself at home on Jim's bed and gives his co-worker a word of warning—or encouragement—on his way out the door: "Careful, Jim, it gets easier and easier."

Stanley, proven to be no stranger to extramarital relations, spies Cathy making herself at home on Jim’s bed and gives his co-worker a word of warning—or encouragement—on his way out the door: “Careful, Jim, it gets easier and easier.”

Florida Stanley fans are given a reprieve during the series finale, “Finale” (Episode 9.24/9.25). A year into his retirement, the erstwhile paper salesman returns to Scranton for a panel discussion with his former colleagues. Now firmly ensconced into his new life happily carving birdhouses in the Sunshine State, Stanley brings his Florida fashions to northeast Pennsylvania via yet another tropical-printed silk Aloha shirt, this one in pea green with a large blue and white floral pattern, camp collar with loop, and coconut buttons. (As with the others, I haven’t been able to track down this exact print but a few similar Tommy Bahamas are out there on eBay as of March 2020: here and here.)

Stanley’s short-brimmed straw hat with its colorful puggaree band returns, as do his tortoise Persol sunglasses, clipped into the breast pocket of his tan windowpane sport jacket.

Retired from Dunder Mifflin and living in Florida, there's no doubt that Stanley is living his Tommy Bahama dream by the end of The Office.

Retired from Dunder Mifflin and living in Florida, there’s no doubt that Stanley is living his Tommy Bahama dream by the end of The Office.

What to Imbibe

Stanley makes the most of his mini bottles of “Donato Gold Rum”, pouring it into his cup during the breakout session with Sabre’s president of special projects, Nellie Bertram (Catherine Tate).

Jim: Wow, are you that bored?
Stanley: It’s just rum. I’m not bored, I’m a pirate.

Unable to argue with that logic, Jim allows Stanley to pour a “healthy” amount of rum into his own diet soda can.

Arr!

Arr!

As often seen with network TV shows, particularly ones featuring drinking in an unfavorable light (i.e. during a business seminar), the brand depicted on screen is fictional, though the name suggests the real-life brand Ronrico, an inexpensive Puerto Rican rum introduced in 1935.

Jim’s hotel mini-fridge is stocked with “Donato” rum as well, which Stanley liberates in “After Hours” (Episode 8.16).

What to Listen to

Stanley: You’re a nice guy, Jim, but you have no idea how to vacation. Now find some Kenny Loggins.
Jim: Loggins and Messina…
Stanley: Did I say Messina?

Stanley peels away before we get to hear the Kenny Loggins anthem of his Florida vacation, though it probably wasn’t “Footloose”, which Andy Bernard (Ed Helms) had danced to two episodes earlier in “Jury Duty” (Episode 8.13).

Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson on The Office (Episode 8.15: "Tallahassee")

Leslie David Baker as Stanley Hudson on The Office (Episode 8.15: “Tallahassee”)

How to Get the Look

Dunder Mifflin is hardly a breeding ground for fashion plates, but a business trip to Florida gives the otherwise subdued Stanley Hudson a chance to embrace the wild side of his personality as a tropical-printed, rum-swilling hedonist picking up dates from a red muscle car.

  • Cream tropical leaf-printed silk short-sleeved Tommy Bahama camp shirt with loop collar, plain front with coconut buttons, and matching breast pocket
  • Khaki pleated slacks with belt loops, side pockets, back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Brown leather square-toed hybrid slip-on loafers with black synthetic soles
  • Tan Toyo straw short-brimmed trilby with green-and-brown tropical-printed puggaree band
  • Persol tortoise acetate square-framed sunglasses
  • Rose gold wristwatch with black dial on burgundy leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the whole series, currently streaming on Netflix, Amazon Prime, and Hulu before it will be exclusively streaming on the upcoming NBC Universal platform Peacock. Of course, you can also purchase the DVDs.

While this episode arc is hardly the The Office‘s best, the “Florida Stanley” transformation may be one of my favorite bits.

The Quote

Life is short. Drive fast, leave a sexy corpse. That’s one of my mottos.

Ike’s Shark Gray Suit on Magic City

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Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Ike Evans on Magic City

Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Ike Evans on Magic City

Vitals

Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Isaac “Ike” Evans, tough and shrewd hotel owner

Miami Beach, Spring into Summer 1959

Series: Magic City
– “Crime and Punishment” (Episode 2.01), dir. Clark Johnson, aired 6/14/2013
– “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03), dir. Ed Bianchi, aired 6/28/2013
– “…And Your Enemies Closer” (Episode 2.07), dir. Simon Cellan Jones, aired 8/2/2013
Creator: Mitch Glazer
Costume Designer: Carol Ramsey

Background

In celebration of my friend and BAMF Style reader Eric’s birthday today, I wanted to pay tribute to the Magic City superfan by highlighting more of the magnificent mid-century fashions worn by Ike Evans (Jeffrey Dean Morgan), boss of Miami Beach’s ritzy Miramar Playa hotel.

Mitch Glazer’s stylish short-lived series aired on Starz for two seasons, set across the first half of 1959 against a backdrop of the Cuban Revolution’s aftermath unfolding across the Florida Straits. A former cabana boy in a Miami Beach hotel, Glazer had based much of the show’s intrigue and even specific plotlines from his own observations or stories he had heard about interactions between the Mafia and the CIA in the lobbies and lounges of iconic Floridian resorts like the Fontainebleau Hotel.

Despite his connections with gangsters and gamblers, Ike Evans is no mobster himself, striving for legitimate success as boss of the Miramar Playa. Yet, the start of the second season finds the hotel chief behind bars for murder charges. He soon receives his freedom from jail but must still vie with the powder kegs all around him from his ex-wife’s sophisticated sister Meg (Kelly Lynch) to his dangerous silent partner Ben “the Butcher” Diamond (Danny Huston), all while negotiating an opportunity to convince the Castro government that he’s well-suited to run casinos in Cuba.

What’d He Wear?

Introduced for the series’ second season is Ike Evans’ shark gray suit which, according to a Terapeak auction listing, had been the property of New York City costume shop Schneeman Studio Ltd. The suiting has a subtle sheen that suggests silk, possibly a worsted wool-and-silk blend, and a color consistent with his declaration in “Angels of Death” (Episode 2.02):

I build, I create… I am the fucking shark.

Ike’s gray suit is cut and styled like his other suits from the second season, all with single-breasted jackets rigged with slim peak lapels. Peak lapels have traditionally reserved for double-breasted garments, though the popularity single-breasted, peak-lapel jacket has cycled through menswear, peaking every forty years or so from its initial boom during the late 1920s and through the 1930s, again during the ’70s revival of Depression-era styling, and again during the early-to-mid 2010s when Magic City was in production, though it certainly was not unheard of for fashionable men in the late ’50s to have their single-breasted suit jackets styled with these double-breasted revers in a contemporary narrow width.

Shaped with front darts, the wide-shouldered suit jacket with its roped sleeveheads also has side vents, three-button cuffs, jetted hip pockets, and a welted breast pocket where Ike wears a straight “TV”-folded white pocket square. The suit jacket’s low two-button stance coordinates with the lower rise of his trousers, which are tailored to fit around Jeffrey Dean Morgan’s waist without belt, braces, or side adjusters, though this lack of a suspension system may also cause the trousers to sag to a lower rise than was commonly seen with late 1950s tailoring. The darted-front trousers have only an extended waistband tab on the front that, once pulled through a single belt loop, closes with a hidden hook closure.

Ike stands with Meg in "Adapt or Die" (Episode 2.03). Note the subtle darts on the front of his trousers, including the dart on the right side that almost lines up with the single belt loop and extends down to an axis almost in line with the bottom of his pocket opening.

Ike stands with Meg in “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03). Note the subtle darts on the front of his trousers, including the dart on the right side that almost lines up with the single belt loop and extends down to an axis almost in line with the bottom of his pocket opening.

Throughout Magic City‘s run, Ike Evans consistently wore white cotton shirts by Ike Behar, detailed with a spread collar and double (French) cuffs. Cuban-American shirtmaker Isaac “Ike” Behar had opened his first shirt factory in New York in 1957, expanding to manufacturing under his own private label in Miami 25 years later. Now, nearly forty years after the launch of the Ike Behar brand, the company remains under the solid management of his sons while Ike himself focuses his current efforts on his humanitarian works. Of the brand’s current offerings as of April 2020, the closest to what Ike Evans wore would likely be this “Ike by Ike” French cuff shirt in 100% cotton white mini-pique.

Apropos the shark-like color of his suit, Ike dresses it up to fulfill the image of the slick, imposing gangster, even if he does follow a more legitimate set of rules than Ben Diamond and those of his ilk. For each of this suit’s three appearances, Ike adopts the “white-on-white” shirt and tie that, when not worn by wedding grooms, maintains an association with the stereotypical movie mafioso.

In “Crime and Punishment” (Episode 2.01) and “…And Your Enemies Closer” (Episode 2.07), Ike’s off-white narrow silk tie has a barely discernible tonal geometric design woven throughout, each coordinating with the placement of black pin dots throughout the tie.

Ike channels gangster style for a meeting with old school wiseguy Sy Berman (James Caan) in "...And Your Enemies Closer" (Episode 2.07).

Ike channels gangster style for a meeting with old school wiseguy Sy Berman (James Caan) in “…And Your Enemies Closer” (Episode 2.07).

In “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03), Ike wears a richer cream-colored tie with an amoebic tonal texture. With both ties, he wears a slim gold-toned ridged tie bar that covers nearly the entire width of this latter tie.

In "Adapt or Die" (Episode 2.03), Ike keeps his arm around his daughter Lauren (Taylor Blackwell) as they prepare to leave Meg's home.

In “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03), Ike keeps his arm around his daughter Lauren (Taylor Blackwell) as they prepare to leave Meg’s home.

Ike’s black leather shoes may be the same single-strap loafers that he also wears with his chocolate brown version of this same suit throughout the second season, a reflection of the relaxing sartorial norms for mid-century businessmen as slip-on shoes were becoming increasingly accepted with suits and ties in the American workplace. (For what it’s worth, YourProps displays a pair of black calf five-eyelet wingtip oxfords by Ferragamo from the series next to a picture of Ike wearing this suit, but the listing describes them as Morgan’s screen-worn footwear from the show’s first season rather than the second.)

Ike Evans looks out over his Miramar Playa domain in "Adapt or Die" (Episode 2.03).

Ike Evans looks out over his Miramar Playa domain in “Adapt or Die” (Episode 2.03).

Despite flirtatious interactions with Meg, Ike Evans remained one of the few faithfully married male protagonists during the peak of prestige TV (calling out Don Draper, Marty Hart, and Tony Soprano, to name a few…), wearing his gold wedding band on his left ring finger throughout both seasons of Magic City.

In his office, Ike wears black rectangular-framed glasses, an updated style from the semi-rimmed glasses he wore during the first season.

MAGIC CITY 203

Ike’s black sunglasses have the classic trapezoidal frames introduced on the Ray-Ban Wayfarer in the 1950s. The iconic frame was patented by Bausch & Lomb optical designer in 1952 and officially introduced four years later as Ray-Ban’s entry into a world of mid-century design archetyped by “Eames chairs and Cadillac tailfins,” according to design critic Stephen Bayley. From the Herman Miller Eames chairs in his office to the cream-colored ’58 Cadillac Eldorado convertible he drives around Miami, Ike would feel right at home in a pair of slick wayfarer-style sunglasses.

During the series’ 1959 setting, Ray-Ban would have been the only likely purveyor of wayfarer-style frames and a natural choice for Ike, though competitors like Oliver Goldsmith and Polaroid were just warming up their Wayfarer-inspired designs. Today, there are scores of imitators of varying quality, though the quintessential wayfarer remains the original by Ray-Ban, now designated RB2140 (via Amazon or Ray-Ban).

MAGIC CITY 203

After wearing a Longines through the first season of Magic City, Ike has a new gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox for the second season, most prominently seen in the final trio of episodes. The Memovox was a revolutionary timepiece when introduced during the fabulous fifties as the first automatic watch with a mechanical alarm function.

Ike’s 18-karat yellow gold Memovox has a silver dial with black numeric hour markers, the watch’s signature double crown, and a smooth black lizard strap. The circle in the center of the watch coordinates with the “Wrist Alarm” function that is set by adjusting the crown at the 2:00 position until the triangle on the rotating center disc is positioned at the time of the desired alarm. The 4:00 pusher is reserved for winding the watch and setting the time.

Ike Evan's Jaeger-LeCoultre as seen strapped to his wrist when wearing one of his black suits in "Sitting on Top of the World" (Episode 2.06).

Ike Evan’s Jaeger-LeCoultre as seen strapped to his wrist when wearing one of his black suits in “Sitting on Top of the World” (Episode 2.06).

You can read more about the history and the operation of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox here.

What to Imbibe

Ike Evans is an avowed Scotch drinker, drinking Dewar’s White Label throughout the series’ first season and Cutty Sark on the rocks at the start of the second, so he must have been delighted when Meg handed him a dram of Macallan 1926 Fine and Rare Vintage single malt whisky, citing it as her father’s favorite.

Cheers!

Cheers!

How to Get the Look

Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Ike Evans on Magic City

Jeffrey Dean Morgan as Ike Evans on Magic City

Ike Evans may be a legitimate businessman with his hotel, but he’s genre-savvy enough to know that he’s dealing with shady gangsters and needs to dress like a man who can hold his own against them. He turns the trope of the gray-suited office drone on its head by sporting a shark-like with fashionable detailing like narrow peak lapels and a fitted trouser waistband and ultimately completing his mobbed-up image with a white-on-white tie.

  • Shark gray worsted wool-and-silk blend tailored suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button jacket with narrow peak lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and double vents
    • Darted-front trousers with fitted waistband, extended front tab (with hidden hook closure), side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White cotton shirt with spread collar and double/French cuffs
  • Cream tonal-patterned silk tie
  • Gold center-ridged tie bar
  • Black leather single-strap loafers
  • Black dress shoes
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox yellow gold “wrist alarm” watch with silver dial on black lizard strap
  • Gold wedding band
  • Black acetate-framed wayfarer-style sunglasses with gray lenses

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the series, and follow my friend Eric’s @MiramarPlaya Twitter account!

Martin Sheen in Badlands

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Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers in Badlands (1973)

Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers in Badlands (1973)

Vitals

Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers, garbage collector-turned-spree killer

South Dakota through the Montana Badlands, Spring 1959

Film: Badlands
Release Date: October 15, 1973
Director: Terrence Malick
Costume Designer: Rosanna Norton (uncredited)
Wardrobe Credit: Dona Baldwin

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Terrence Malick made his impressive cinematic debut writing, producing, and directing Badlands, the romanticized re-interpretation of the infamously violent crime spree of Charles Starkweather and his teenage girlfriend, Caril Ann Fugate, that left ten dead across the Great Plains during eight brutal and bloody days in January 1958.

The real-life Caril Ann Fugate and Charles Starkweather, circa 1957. Starkweather's denim jacket and jeans likely inspired Rosanna Norton's costume design for Kit Carruthers, though it should be noted that Starkweather's jacket does not appear to be Levi's.

The real-life Caril Ann Fugate and Charles Starkweather, circa 1957. Starkweather’s denim jacket and jeans likely inspired Rosanna Norton’s costume design for Kit Carruthers, though it should be noted that Starkweather’s jacket does not appear to be Levi’s.

“He projected this very, very disarming image, everybody could kind of relate to him,” spoke Martin Sheen of the real Starkweather in a retrospective interview about the making of Badlands. “His murder spree aside, he was very, very interesting, and he gave us an inside kind of glimpse into the very worst part of ourselves. And yet, it was so engrossing—his character, his image of himself—and it made the country kind of step back a little bit and say we’re more into image than reality, and this guy is a reflection of that.”

Sheen, who had considered Malick’s script to be the best he had ever read, still considers Badlands his finest movie.

“Terry always separated the brutality and the reality of the Starkweather incident from what we were doing,” added Sissy Spacek. “He never said ‘This is that story,’ he didn’t want us to do the research.” Although inspired by these actual events, Malick chooses to tell his own independent “fairy tale”, being sure to change the names of our protagonists, soften the nature of their myriad misdeeds, and shift the action north from Nebraska into Wyoming up to South Dakota into Montana.

Little did I realize that what began in the alleys and backways of this quiet town would end in the Badlands of Montana.

Though filmed primarily in Colorado, the story begins in Fort Dupree, South Dakota, where teenager Holly Sargis (Sissy Spacek) is living a life of complacent boredom with her gruff father, a widowed sign painter played by the always-reliable Warren Oates. She soon finds herself under the magnetic spell of garbage “thrower” Kit Carruthers (Martin Sheen), despite her father’s objections to the ultimately objectionable young man. Holly cites her attraction to the sociopathic Kit to his finely honed likeness—in look and persona—to the late James Dean as well as his proto-philosophical ramblings (“Somebody dropped a bag on the sidewalk. If everybody did that, the whole town would be a mess.”) that no doubt resemble wisdom to an unworldly 15-year-old girl whose sphere of influence had never extended beyond small towns in Texas and South Dakota.

Kit and Holly provide a visual yin to the other's yang on their first meeting.

Kit and Holly provide a visual yin to the other’s yang on their first meeting.

Having procured a cheap revolver, Kit removes the obstacle to life with Holly by killing Mr. Sargis, leaving the underaged girl with no one to guide her through life except Kit. From the start, he provides several opportunities for her to leave him (“If you wanna call the police, that’s fine, just won’t be so hot for me,”), but she “sensed that her destiny now lay with Kit, for better or worse.” The couple then embarks on their nomadic life with a seemingly idyllic start of self-isolation in the woods until they’re forced out to begin leaving their bloody trail across the Great Plains that results in their inevitable capture.

I always wanted to be a criminal, I guess, just not this big of one… takes all kinds, though.

What’d He Wear?

Terrence Malick told Beverly Walker for Sight and Sound in 1975 that he “tried to keep the 1950s to a bare minimum” to avoid a sense of nostalgia overwhelming the plot, though the film deserves credit for costuming Martin Sheen in the appropriate generation of Levi’s trucker jacket, dressing Kit Carruthers in the “Type 2” pattern introduced in 1953 rather than the modern “Type 3” that has remained the Levi’s standard since its 1967 introduction. Aware of his image, Kit would have been aware that the King himself, Elvis Presley, was often photographed in this style of Levi’s jacket.

BADLANDS

This jacket’s official designation is the Levi’s 507XX as the “Type 2” nomenclature was added retrospectively as enthusiasts sought to explore the history and evolution of this all-American outerwear. Introduced in 1953 alongside the brand’s two-sided “red tab”, this short, boxy-fitting jacket was the first revised issue of the denim jacket that Levi’s had introduced in 1906 as the 506XX, though the earlier jacket went through several design evolutions of its own before the 507XX was developed.

The 507XX maintained the basic structure and style of its predecessor, though it added a second chest pocket for two pointed-bottom patch pockets, each closing through a single-button flap and positioned at mid-chest rather than the higher positioning of the modern trucker jackets. They have five silver-finished iron rivet buttons and horizontal buttonholes. Extending down from the horizontal front yoke to the waistband, there are two forward-facing pleats closely placed on each side of the placket; the pleats are overlaid by three top-stitched rectangles on each side of the placket, all with the signature “lemon yellow” threading present throughout. (By cutting open these rectangles, the outer set of pleats could be expanded to give a wearer even more room inside the jacket.)

"It okay, me leaning on your Willys here?

“It okay, me leaning on your Willys here?

Consistent with the modernization practices of their jeans, the 507XX also did away with the 506XX’s cinch-back and replaced it with the more modern button-tab waist adjusters that are still present on trucker jackets today, including the most recent iteration of the Levi’s jacket. These short tabs fasten to one of two buttons. The back has a deep outward-facing pleat on each side, extending down from the horizontal top yoke to the waistband. Both pleats gently taper toward the center, creating a keystone-like effect on the back of the jacket. Each sleeve also closes with a single button on the cuff.

Clad in his Levi's 507XX jacket, Kit surveys the Montana badlands behind him. Note his revolver, pocketed in the back of his jeans.

Clad in his Levi’s 507XX jacket, Kit surveys the Montana badlands behind him. Note his revolver, pocketed in the back of his jeans.

You can read a comprehensive and well-illustrated history of the 507XX written by Louter for Long John, including references to Badlands. Denim expert Albert Muzquiz also included the Type 2 in his exploration for Primer, adding the insight that the “507XX” refers to its original shrink-to-fit denim construction that had been phased out by the 1960s. Although the 507XX was ostensibly replaced by the “Type 3” 557XX in 1967, this “Type 2” style was revived by Levi’s for their Vintage Clothing line. Heddels also offers a guide for dating and valuing vintage Levi’s denim jackets from across all three generations.

Kit is such a fan of his 507XX that he sometimes wears the jacket as its own shirt, foregoing his undershirt and lounging in his forest hideout wearing just jacket and jeans.

In what would become a signature move for Martin Sheen, seen with his work jackets in Wall Street and even his presidential suit jackets on The West Wing, Kit “flips” the jacket on over his head, a two-second trick that slips both arms into the jacket at once. The actor developed this habit to accommodate the limited movement in his left arm and shoulder, which he explained was damaged by forceps during his birth and left him with a “withered” left arm that grew to be three inches shorter than his right arm.

(Yes, I once tried to do this with a suit jacket and my glasses flew out of my breast pocket and I spent the next three minutes asking my co-workers to be careful while I looked for my glasses, immediately nullifying any potential of looking cool while executing Sheen’s maneuver.)

Evidently a brand loyalist, Kit wears Levi’s 501XX jeans in a dark blue denim just a shade darker than his jacket. These button-fly “Original Fit” jeans have the signature Levi’s red tab along the inside of the back right pocket.

The middle belt loop on the back is centered on the seat seam, suggesting that Sheen’s screen-worn jeans were likely made after 1964 as Levi’s had offset this belt loop to be positioned aside this seam from 1947 until then, according to Mads Jakobsen’s informative guide to the history of vintage Levi’s 501 jeans for Heddels. I hesitate to call this an anachronism as it’s such an esoteric detail in an otherwise period-perfect costume, but it’s nonetheless worth noting in the spirit of comprehensiveness.

Evidently not a sports fan.

Evidently not a sports fan.

Kit wears a well-worn dark brown leather belt with a tarnished brass D-shaped single-prong buckle.

BADLANDS

Kit further cultivates his James Dean image by exclusively wearing a white cotton T-shirt with a crew neck and short sleeves, not unlike Dean’s famous undershirt in Rebel Without a Cause.

"Just thought I'd come over and say hello to you. I'd try anything once."

“Just thought I’d come over and say hello to you. I’d try anything once.”

“Least nobody can get on me about wearin’ these boots anymore,” he comments to Holly about starting his new job as a cowboy after he was fired from the garbage company. Indeed, these distinctive black-and-white boots were part of our introduction to Kit, as he marveled over a dead dog in an alleyway and challenged his pal Cato to eat it for a dollar. I wouldn’t know the best place to start looking for boots like these—though Kit would likely be flattered to know that anyone wants them—other than starting with the “exotic boots” segment at Boot Barn or Country Outfitter.

For some boots in the same spirit at Kit’s, check out these black Corral boots with white python skin inlay, the python Dan Post boots with black stitched shafts, or these Moonshine Spirit stingray boots. If you’re seeking mule ears, your selection is a little more limited but these all-black COWS® “shotgun” boots or these customizable Gladiator “shooter” boots could suit your purposes.

Kit’s boots appear to be constructed in a base of black leather, with white leather overlaid on the toe caps, heel counters, and the shafts, all decoratively stenciled out to reveal the black underneath though they remain black over the insteps. These boots have flapped “mule ears” on the sides, decorated in a coordinating black-and-white stitched design, that hearken back to the days of Old West gunfighters who reportedly would pull on their tall boots by these loose, mule ear-shaped flaps. Kit’s boots are soled in hard black leather with low heels.

Kit's distinctive boots give his dance steps additional flavor.

Kit’s distinctive boots give his dance steps additional flavor.

For one brief scene early in Kit and Holly’s courtship, he wears a light blue classic chambray work shirt, one of the rare times he diverges from his usual daily attire and arguably the “dressiest” thing he wears. The shirt has two flapped chest pockets and white buttons up the front placket and on the cuffs of its long sleeves, worn rolled up his forearms.

Aside from an expertise with firearms and a casual reference to what kids eat in Korea, little about Kit suggests any sort of military experience and it’s likely that he picked up this naval-style work shirt secondhand or from a civilian manufacturer. The unprecedented number of servicemen who returned home after World War II saw a boom in the military work-wear they brought home, and American outfitters began manufacturing garments like leather flight jackets, khaki chinos, and chambray work shirts for the civilian market.

Holly carries Kit's jacket for him as he walks beside her in a rarely seen chambray shirt.

Holly carries Kit’s jacket for him as he walks beside her in a rarely seen chambray shirt.

A strong proponent of denim, Kit spends much of his life in the wilderness with Holly wearing a pair of jeans cut off above the knees to become a handmade pair of the now oft-derided “jorts”. Judging by the arcuate stitching on the back pockets, these were likely modified from another pair of Levi’s 501 jeans.

Gone fishin'.

Gone fishin’.

“Originally, there was a hat involved,” Sheen recalled in a recent interview. “[Malick] wanted me to wear a cowboy hat, a Texan kind of hat. That was the hardest piece of wardrobe to come up with. We went to a lot of different stores… trying to find a hat that would work. We were in a particular store, and Terry was trying on all these kinds of cowboy hats — some of them were straw, some of them were felt, cotton, whatever — and I would try a hat and he’d say, ‘No, no that wouldn’t work, let’s try this, Martin.’ I’d say ‘Okay,’ and I’d put another one on, then another one, and it just wasn’t working, and finally he said ‘I hope you don’t mind, but it seems that your IQ drops considerably when you put on a hat.’ And I said ‘Enough said,’ and I’ve never worn a hat since.”

Despite Sheen’s hesitation in the face of Malick’s criticism, a cowboy hat did make its way into Kit Carruthers’ wardrobe early in the film, seen only twice: once when working as a cowboy (the best time to wear a cowboy hat) and again during a moment of isolation in the woods with Holly. The light natural straw cowboy hat has a cattleman-style crown and a narrow leather band.

Relaxing in cowboy hat and boots in a pose reminiscent of his hero James Dean on the set of Giant, Kit casts a furtive glance around while poring through a National Geographic... as if reading a magazine was the only thing he had to feel guilty about.

Relaxing in cowboy hat and boots in a pose reminiscent of his hero James Dean on the set of Giant, Kit casts a furtive glance around while poring through a National Geographic… as if reading a magazine was the only thing he had to feel guilty about.

After holding the wealthy Mr. Scarborough and his deaf maid hostage for hours in their upscale home, Kit grabs two items from the man’s foyer—a Panama hat and a seersucker jacket that both he and Holly would wear over the course of the film’s final act—before additionally taking the man’s Cadillac as well.

Why are these items so important to Kit and the image he continues to build for himself? The answer makes itself evident in Malick’s below testimony for Sight and Sound:

Kit doesn’t see himself as anything sad or pitiable, but as a subject of incredible interest, to himself and to future generations. Like Holly, like a child, he can only really believe in what’s going on inside him. Death, other people’s feelings, the consequences of his actions—they’re all sort of abstract for him. He thinks of himself as a successor to James Dean—a rebel without a cause—when in reality he’s more like an Eisenhower conservative. “Consider the minority opinion,” he says into the rich man’s tape recorder, “but try to get along with the majority opinion once it’s accepted.” He doesn’t really believe any of this, but he envies the people who do, who can. He wants to be like them, like the rich man he locks in the closet, the only man he doesn’t kill, the only man he sympathizes with, and the one least in need of sympathy. It’s not infrequently the people at the bottom who most vigorously defend the very rules that put and keep them there.

The blue-and-white railroad-striped seersucker cotton jacket has narrow notch lapels, a double white button front closure, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, plain cuffs with no buttons or vents, and a single back vent.

Evidently feeling gentlemanly in his [stolen] jacket and hat, Kit stops to open Holly's [stolen] car door for even with his hands full [of stolen goods].

Evidently feeling gentlemanly in his [stolen] jacket and hat, Kit stops to open Holly’s [stolen] car door for even with his hands full [of stolen goods].

“By the end of the film, Kit’s self-mythology has blended with a full-on celebrity status earned through killing,” wrote filmmaker Michael Almereyda in an essay included with the Criterion Collection edition of Badlands. Carefully cultivating his image when he knows his capture is imminent, Kit dons the Panama hat he liberated from the home of the “rich man”, fires a round into the front tire of the same man’s Cadillac, and awaits the arrival of the police.

The fine straw Panama hat has a grosgrain with seven balanced stripes that alternate between royal blue and white.

"I'll kiss your ass if he don't look like James Dean," remarks the deputy after taking in Kit's appearance. It's just what the young criminal wanted to hear.

“I’ll kiss your ass if he don’t look like James Dean,” remarks the deputy after taking in Kit’s appearance. It’s just what the young criminal wanted to hear.

The swaggering deputy, Tom (Alan Vint), grabs Kit’s Panama hat and flings it out of the car, sending the hat and its striped grosgrain band scattering over the road. “You tossed my hat out the window,” Kit observes. “Wanna sue?” the sheriff responds. “No.”

What to Listen to

Although the world takes their multiple murders and crimes seriously, Terrence Malick sought to portray Kit and Holly’s reactions to their own actions as living in a fairy tale, achieving this effect by generously scoring much of their life in hiding with the light “Gassenhauer nach Hans Neusiedler (1536)”, composed by Carl Orff’s collaborator Gunild Keetman as part of Orff’s Schulwerk approach, a modern arrangement of a 1536 work by German Renaissance ludelist Hans Neusidler.

As performed by George Tipton, Badlands popularized this particular piece, which would find widespread use across other movies like True Romance and Monster as well as on television shows and commercials.

“Gassenhauer” wasn’t the only track that would go on to be prominently used in other movies. A brief vignette depicts Kit and Holly spending their idyllic life in the woods dancing to Mickey & Sylvia’s 1956 call-and-response pop hit “Love Is Strange”. Though the song had also been featured the previous year in Deep ThroatBadlands was likely the first mainstream movie to include “Love Is Strange”, years before it would become famous on the soundtracks of Dirty Dancing and Casino.

“Hey, don’t touch that, it’s Nat King Cole!” Kit admonishes Holly as she moves to change the radio station during their nighttime drive into Montana. Kit pulls the Cadillac over and they dance in ints headlights to “A Blossom Fell”, Cole’s 1955 single. “Boy if I could sing a song like that,” Kit observes admiringly, “it’d be a hit.” (Despite his appreciation for Nat King Cole, Kit later explains to his captors that his favorite singer is Eddie Fisher.)

For additional Badlands flavor:

  • A rare instrumental version of James Taylor’s “Migration” served as a secondary theme throughout the movie.
  • Martin Sheen recalled that he was listening to Bob Dylan’s “Desolation Row” during an early morning drive on the PCH when he knew that he was “going to play the part of my life” by accepting the role in Badlands.
  • Both the movie and the real-life incidents inspired Bruce Springsteen’s 1982 album Nebraska, specifically its leading title track “Nebraska” told from Charles Starkweather’s perspective.
Gassenhauer nach Hans Neusiedler (1536) Love Is Strange A Blossom Fell Migration Desolation Row Nebraska

The Cars

Kit’s matte black 1951 Mercury Sport Coupe is a direct extension of his James Dean self-image, a reflection of the ’49 Merc that Dean made famous in Rebel Without a Cause and a stand-in for the blue 1949 Ford two-door sedan driven by Charles Starkweather in real life, which he painted black following his murder of Robert Colvert in December 1957. The 1951 Mercury Eight was the last model year of the same generation that began with the ’49.

The Mercury Eight had launched as the line’s debut model when Edsel Ford introduced the Mercury marque in 1938 to bridge the gap between Ford and Lincoln. As the first Mercury produced following World War II, the distinctive “ponton” appearance of the 1949-1951 generation successfully distinguished the Mercury from its Ford sister model, which offered the same 255 cubic-inch “flathead” V8 albeit with slightly less power than the Mercury. The Mercury Eight would be replaced by the re-styled Mercury Monterey alongside the Mercury Custom fro the 1952 model year. (You can see more of Kit’s Mercury at IMCDB.)

Kit's Mercury.

Kit’s Mercury.

Kit briefly abandons the Mercury at Cato’s home, stealing a 1949 Studebaker Champion Starlight De Luxe from the two teens he locked in the cellar and shot at. Their fate is left unknown, but this incident paralleled Starkweather’s brutal double murder of teens Robert Jensen and Carol King, who had stopped to offer Starkweather and Fugate a ride and ended up shot to death in a Bennet, Nebraska storm cellar, not far from where Starkweather had previously filled family friend August Meyer.

The teal two-door Studebaker is an older but slightly more premium upgraded ride for Kit and Holly with its unique wraparound “greenhouse” rear window. Though stylish in its design, the Studebaker may have disappointed a motorhead like Kit with its underpowered straight-six engine producing only 80 horsepower as opposed to the 112 horsepower generated by his Mercury V8. However, the Mercury was also nearly 1000 pounds heavier than the Studebaker so it’s possible that the lighter car may have sprinted faster even with a less powerful motor. (You can see more angles of this Studebaker at IMCDB.)

Kit greets two teens pulling up to Cato's spread in a Studebaker.

Kit greets two teens pulling up to Cato’s spread in a Studebaker.

Kit acquires his third and final car, a shining black 1959 Cadillac Series 62 coupe, from the home of the wealthy Mr. Scarborough (John Carter), the film’s stand-in for the real-life C. Lauer Ward who was a Starkweather victim in January 1958 in addition to his wife Clara, their maid Lillian Fencl, and the family dog. After Starkweather murdered the residents of the household, he and Fugate drove off in Mrs. Ward’s black 1956 Packard.

Kit and Holly feed the Cadillac with drip gas as they speed out of South Dakota into the Montana badlands. (If you look closely, you can see the Cadillac has an anachronistic inspection sticker that expires in December 1972.) After the cars he’s been used to, Kit had to be impressed by the Cadillac’s 390 cubic-inch OHV V8 engine, mated to a four-speed automatic transmission and offering an output of 325 horsepower. (You can see more of Mr. Scarborough’s Cadillac at IMCDB.)

Interestingly, the long black two-door American coupe shares many qualities with Kit’s entry-level Merc, perhaps illustrating that he’s come as close as possible to living his own self-image by the end. Kit’s always had access to the downgraded versions of this lifestyle, but now he’s cruising in a Cadillac wearing a fine Panama hat rather than motoring his Mercury with a cheaper straw cowboy hat. Having achieved his goal and likely aware that he can’t do any better, he’s ready for the ride to be over, engineering his own capture by firing a shot into the coupe’s front left wheel. By calling the game early on his own terms, Kit ensures that he can live by the ethos of living fast, dying young, and leaving a good-looking corpse, often touted by James Dean as a reference to Nicholas Ray’s cinematic adaptation of the 1947 novel Knock on Any Door. (The phrase itself likely originates to J.M. O’Connor’s 1921 play “These Wild Young People” as etymologized here.)

With his acquired Panama hat and Cadillac, Kit stands beside the pile of rocks to commemorate the place where he was captured, working overtime in the hopes of cementing his own criminal legend.

With his acquired Panama hat and Cadillac, Kit stands beside the pile of rocks to commemorate the place where he was captured, working overtime in the hopes of cementing his own criminal legend.

The 1959 Cadillac exemplifies the dramatic tailfins that symbolized automotive luxury during the latter half of the fabulous fifties. While all prominent American auto manufacturers tossed their own proverbial hats into the tailfin ring, it was Cadillac that’s credited with starting the trend in the late 1940s and it was Cadillac that most famously carried it out, reaching a dramatic climax with its 1959 models with the Eldorado’s soaring 42-inch fins, illuminated by twin bullet-shaped tail lights, and standing tall above the car’s rear as a symbol of the luxurious but oft-exaggerated jet age opulence.

While some manufacturers tried to rationalize tailfins (Plymouth claimed they served the same purpose as the jet stabilizers they resembled, and Mercedes-Benz offered that they were “sight lines” for backing up), the public grew tired of the tailfin race and its associated safety concerns. Manufacturers, too, were growing displeased with the complexity and expense of tailfins and the automotive focus for the ’60s shifted from style to performance with the dawn of true American muscle.

The Series 62 would only last for one more more generation, seceded for the 1965 model year by the Calais that would be Cadillac’s entry-level model through the 1970s.

The Guns

“Got a gun here, sir,” Kit admits as he almost sheepishly pulls his revolver from the back pocket of his jeans. “Always a good idea to have one around.” Mr. Sargis no doubt agrees, having his own top-break revolver that we’ve seen him use to kill Holly’s dog, but it’s not on his person at the moment. “Suppose I shot you? How’d that be?” a crazed Kit asks when Mr. Sargis moves downstairs to call the police. “You wanna hear what it sounds like?” he fires a round into the floor, for once actually shaking the firm father, though this act only strengthens Mr. Sargis’ resolve to get Kit away from him and his daughter.

While the real Charles Starkweather almost exclusively used long arms like rifles and shotguns during his crime spree (aside from a stolen .32-caliber semi-automatic pistol for which he had no ammunition), Badlands‘ Kit Carruthers is primarily armed with a Hi-Standard Sentinel revolver, likely chambered in the smaller .22 Long Rifle round.

Driving with his finger on the trigger is consistent with Kit's reckless personality.

Driving with his finger on the trigger is consistent with Kit’s reckless personality.

The story of these budget-friendly firearms began with Swedish immigrant Carl Gustav Swebilius, who founded his company manufacturing parts for firearms in Hamden, Connecticut, in 1926. Within a few years, Swebilius purchased the Hartford Arms and Equipment Company and begin manufacturing his own .22-caliber target pistols. High Standard rose to greater prominence during World War II, providing training pistols and silenced tactical weapons for Office of Strategic Services (OSS) agents.

Kit fires a round from his Hi-Standard Sentinel into the floor to demonstrate to Holly's father that he means business.

Kit fires a round from his Hi-Standard Sentinel into the floor to demonstrate to Holly’s father that he means business.

After the war, High Standard responded to a request from their partial owners Sears, Roebuck and Company to deliver a lightweight, low-cost “kit” revolver. In 1955, High Standard delivered with a traditional double/single-action, aluminum-framed revolver with a nine-round capacity of .22 rimfire ammunition that would be branded by Sears as the J.C. Higgins Model 88 and by Western Auto as the Revelation Model 99; High Standard would also market the weapon under its own brand as the Hi-Standard Sentinel R-100.

High Standard would continue updating the weapon through the 1970s, changing the designated model number with each variant until reaching R-109. Production of this popular and portable revolver ended in 1984. (You can read more about the history of the Hi-Standard Sentinel from TINCANBANDIT here.)

As a man of limited means, Kit Carruthers would have gravitated toward a budget-friendly revolver like the Hi-Standard Sentinel. Though it’s a double-action revolver (with a reportedly smooth trigger pull), Kit tends to pull back the hammer to fire in single-action any chance he gets, including while “fishing”, giving him greater control over the weapon and thus more accurate shooting… though he still can’t successfully hit any fish.

When Badlands debuted at the close of the 1973 New York Film Festival, Malick described Kit as “so desensitized that [he] can regard the gun with which he shoots people as a kind of magic wand that eliminates small nuisances,” per Vincent Canby in his flattering contemporary review for the New York Times.

Kit sleeps flanked by firearms, his checkered-grip Savage rifle behind his head and his Hi-Standard Sentinel revolver just inches away from his hand.

Kit sleeps flanked by firearms, his checkered-grip Savage rifle behind his head and his Hi-Standard Sentinel revolver just inches away from his hand.

For hiding out in the woods, Kit keeps a Remington Model 870 pump-action shotgun as his primary defense weapon, likely standing in for the budget-friendly .410 bore Stevens Model 59A shotgun stolen from Caril Ann Fugate’s murdered stepfather by the real Charlie Starkweather and referenced in Bruce Springsteen’s “Nebraska”:

From the town of Lincoln Nebraska with a sawed-off .410 on my lap / Through to the badlands of Wyoming I killed everything in my path…

Remington had long been seeking a replacement for their aging Model 31 shotgun and hoped to compete against the popular Winchester Model 1912 by introducing its own reliable, modern, and relatively inexpensive shotgun. Introduced in 1950, the Remington Model 870 has become a quickly popular shotgun in all segments from civilian hunters and sportsmen to law enforcement and military use. In 1973, the year that Badlands was released, Remington celebrated the two-millionth Model 870 manufactured, and it’s likely that production numbers has reached at least 11 million as of 2020 including all hunting and tactical variants of the weapon.

Over its 70+ years of production, Remington has offered the Model 870 in countless varieties of gauge, shell capacity, sight configuration, construction and finish, barrel length, and more, but Kit uses a classic 12-gauge Remington Model 870 with a riot-length 18″ barrel, blued steel finish with walnut slide and full stock, and standard underbarrel magazine tube with the distinctive “X” end cap.

Slowly emerging from the ground like Captain Willard from the swamp, Kit guns down three bounty hunters with his Remington Model 870.

Slowly emerging from the ground like Captain Willard from the swamp, Kit guns down three bounty hunters with his Remington Model 870.

Kit’s rifle is a lever-action Savage Model 99R, carried for most of the couple’s crime spree and most memorably used when Kit kills his one-time pal Cato, firing a .300-caliber round straight through the man’s stomach. “Is he upset?” Holly asks of the dying man. “He didn’t say anything to me about it,” replies Kit. (The rifle used by the real Starkweather for most of his murders was a Winchester Model 1906, a takedown slide-action rifle that had been chambered only for .22-caliber rimfire rounds and was often marketed as a youth rifle across its production timeline from 1906 into the 1930s, with more than 700,000 manufactured.)

Introduced in 1899 from a design by Arthur W. Savage, the Savage 99 followed the example of its Model 1895 predecessor, which was the first hammerless lever-action rifle and utilized an innovative rotary magazine with a spring-loaded spool. The Model 99 expanded on the capabilities of this unique magazine by adding technology to see how many rounds remain, though later models replaced this with a detachable box magazine. The Savage was never officially authorized for widespread military usage, despite being an early contender for U.S. Army trials in the 1890s and a number of .303 Savage rifles being issued in “musket” form to the Montreal Home Guard during World War I. Production of the Savage 99 and its variants lasted nearly a century with the last of more than one million Model 99 rifles manufactured in 1998. You can learn more about these popular American rifles at savage99.com.

While making his final dash for freedom in Montana, Kit asks a gas attendant if he can sell him “shells for a .300 Savage,” one of at least a dozen cartridges the Model 99 was offered in, ranging from .22-250 Remington up to .375 Winchester and even including custom rifles that fired a single shot of .410 bore shotgun ammunition. Kit’s screen-used Savage can be identified as the 99R model by its raised-ramp front sight, round-ended forearm, checkered grip, and steel shotgun-style buttplate.

Martin Sheen recalled that this memorable brief vignette of Kit with his Savage rifle was essentially an impulse, captured while Terrence Malick was driving through Colorado looking for filming locations. Malick manned the camera himself, as he reportedly often did during the production of Badlands.

Martin Sheen recalled that this memorable brief vignette of Kit with his Savage rifle was essentially an impulse, captured while Terrence Malick was driving through Colorado looking for filming locations. Malick manned the camera himself, as he reportedly often did during the production of Badlands.

What to Imbibe

For their feast of Spam and beans at Cato’s home, Kit and Cato each drink from bottles of Grain Belt beer. Brewed in Minnesota, this Midwest regional beer also appeared in the hands of the two hapless kidnappers in Fargo (1996) as well as on the pages of William Least Heat-Moon’s fantastic American travelogue, Blue Highways, described as the brew of choice of an aspiring sports announcer in a Bagley, Minnesota, tavern.

Beer, beans, and potted meat. Nothing but the good life for Kit Carruthers.

Beer, beans, and potted meat. Nothing but the good life for Kit Carruthers.

Two years after the merger that created the Minneapolis Brewing Company in 1891, the traditional German-style lager Grain Belt Golden was introduced on the market. During its first half-century in production, the regional favorite encountered many of the same tribulations as American breweries including an extended hiatus due to Prohibition, followed a decade later by wartime rationing, but it enjoyed a postwar boom with the introduction of Grain Belt Premium in 1947. The company fell into decline over the last quarter of the 20th century, but the Grain Belt brand was revived by the August Schell Brewing Company of New Ulm and continues to enjoy popularity across generations in the Midwest.

Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers in Badlands (1973)

Martin Sheen as Kit Carruthers in Badlands (1973)

How to Get the Look

Kit Carruthers aims to fit the mold of a rebellious James Dean-type, incidentally creating his own iconic image in the simple but enduring outfit of vintage Levi’s jacket and jeans with boots that establish him as “quite the individual,” in the words of a lawman who brings him in.

  • Dark blue shrink-to-fit denim Levi’s 507XX “Type 2” trucker jacket
  • White cotton crew-neck short-sleeve T-shirt
  • Dark blue denim Levi’s 501XX button-fly jeans
  • Dark brown leather belt with dulled brass single-prong D-shape buckle
  • Black-and-white “mule ear” Western-styled boots

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The actual life and despicable crimes of the real Charlie Starkweather are far worse than the events presented in Badlands, and I recommend Michael Newton’s book Waste Land for those interested in learning about the inspiration for the story.

The Gallery

This post is already loaded with plenty of shots highlighting Rosanna Norton’s memorable costume design, Jack Fisk’s thoughtful art direction, and the sublime cinematography, but I couldn’t help but to add a few more scattered here that didn’t have a place above but serve to further illustrate Kit’s outfit and the overall tone of Badlands.

The Quote

I got some stuff to say. Guess I’m kinda lucky that way.

 

 

The Band Wagon: Fred Astaire in Brown and Pink

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Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Vitals

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter, musical comedy star

Washington, D.C., to Baltimore via train, Spring 1953

Film: The Band Wagon
Release Date: August 7, 1953
Director: Vincente Minnelli
Costume Designer: Mary Ann Nyberg

Background

In addition to being Mother’s Day, today also commemorates the birthday of the multi-talented song-and-dance legend Fred Astaire, born May 10, 1899, in Omaha. To honor this elegant dance legend and suggest an outfit that your mother may appreciate as you’re delivering flowers (or communicating via FaceTime, depending on your level of pandemic-informed social distancing today), let’s take a look at a pleasant but all-too-briefly featured outfit from Astaire’s 1953 musical The Band Wagon.

Tony Hunter (Astaire) should be feeling on top of the world, starring in a successful show written specifically for him by his friends, the Martons, that’s being warmly received on its national tour. However, our poor Tony admits to Lester Marton (Oscar Levant) en route their Baltimore performance that he’s still feeling unsatisfied, the result of what he believes to be a deep yet unrequited love for his glamorous co-star, Gaby Gerard (Cyd Charisse).

What’d He Wear?

Fred Astaire extended his dapper dressing tendencies in real life onto the silver screen, colorfully yet tastefully appointed by Mary Ann Nyberg’s Academy Award-nominated costume design that shone from the screen thanks to Harry Jackson’s cinematography.

For this brief train ride between performances, Tony wears a rich brown flannel sports coat, perfectly tailored with a two-button front that fastens at Astaire’s natural waist line, balancing the pink shirt and tie on top and the gray flannel trousers on bottom.

The single-breasted jacket has substantial notch lapels with a buttonhole through the left lapel should Fred determine the situation would call for a boutonnière. Slightly padded at the shoulders to build out Astaire’s lean frame, the jacket is finished at the ends of each sleeve with three woven brown leather buttons that echo the buttons on the front of the jacket. A flapped ticket pocket on the right side supplements the two flapped pockets positioned straight on the hips, and Tony wears a subtle navy-and-red printed silk pocket square that—per Astaire’s usual approach to pocket hanks—barely rises out of the welted breast pocket but adds a colorful dash that coordinates with his lighter shirt and tie.

“As for his shirts—they cost him from $12 to $25—he sometimes has them custom-made but usually picks them up from the counter. Except for full dress, he likes a soft shirt front, and light colors in the pink, blue, and tan range… He prefers a well-made buttoned cuff to French cuffs… As for the collars, he dislikes the tab and prefers the button-down and the wide-spread collar—braced by staves,” Astaire’s personal taste is described in a GQ exploration, with all of these preferences evident on screen.

Tony continues his pattern of wearing shirts and ties in the same color (e.g. his blue-on-blue with the opening gray double-breasted suit or yellow-on-yellow while “Dancing in the Dark”), this time in shades of pink. His pinpoint cotton shirt has an elegantly rolled button-down collar and single-button rounded cuffs, and his silk tie—perfectly dimpled below the four-in-hand knot—is just a shade darker, held in place with a thin gold bar positioned a few inches above the jacket’s buttoning point. “I’m narrow enough myself, too narrow,” Astaire joked to GQ about his preference for wider ties.

Tony Hunter's colorful attire stands apart from the conservative suits, white shirts, and dark ties worn by the rest of his production's creative team.

Tony Hunter’s colorful attire stands apart from the conservative suits, white shirts, and dark ties worn by the rest of his production’s creative team.

Tony grounds the colorful outfit with a pair of dark gray woolen flannel double reverse-pleated trousers with an appropriately high rise that meets the jacket buttoning point at the waist, so perfectly proportioned that the effect never falters even when Astaire slumps into a seat on the train, one leg hitched over the arm as he turns to allow pal Lester to light his cigarette. We get only the glimpse of his belt, which appears to be a more traditional strip of light brown leather that tapers to a squared gold single-prong buckle—pulled off to one side—rather than the colorful silk scarves Astaire frequently wore as belts while dancing.

The bottoms of Tony’s slacks are finished with turn-ups (cuffs), and Astaire’s posture while seated shows off his choice of cream-colored socks, a relatively subdued color choice when compared to his red, gold, and blue hosiery elsewhere in The Band Wagon, but still a high contrast that catches the eye between the bottom of his dark trousers and his dark brown suede English-made oxfords that have either a cap-toe or a brogued wingtip.

Only a graceful hoofer like Fred Astaire could maintain the neat proportions of his outfit while assuming such a laidback position.

Only a graceful hoofer like Fred Astaire could maintain the neat proportions of his outfit while assuming such a laidback position.

Astaire accessorizes with his usual affectations, a gold signet ring on his right pinky and a gold curb-chain bracelet on his left wrist.

How to Get the Look

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

“I know that once in awhile I’ve been on lists of best-dressed men,” Fred Astaire once told GQ,,”but it always comes as a surprise to me. I never think of myself as spic and span or all duded out—just as someone who wants to be comfortable and satisfy his own taste.” (Worth noting is that Astaire was also wearing a light pink shirt for said interview.)

One of the finest dressers of Hollywood’s fabled Golden Age, Astaire perfectly balanced color and taste in his well-tailored wardrobe, illustrated by his costumes in The Band Wagon like this grounded brown sports coat and gray flannel slacks with a pink-on-pink shirt and tie combination that follows his creed for dressing: “Be yourself—but don’t be conspicuous.”

  • Brown woolen flannel single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets with flapped right-side ticket pocket, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
  • Light pink pinpoint cotton shirt with button-down collar and 1-button rounded cuffs
  • Pink silk tie
  • Thin gold tie bar
  • Dark gray woolen flannel double reverse-pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Light brown leather belt that tapers to gold-toned squared single-prong buckle
  • Dark brown suede oxford shoes
  • Cream socks
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Gold curb-chain bracelet
  • Burgundy silk pocket square

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

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