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Cary Grant’s Beige Summer Jacket and Citroën in That Touch of Mink

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Cary Grant and Doris Day in That Touch of Mink (1962)

Cary Grant and Doris Day in That Touch of Mink (1962)

Vitals

Cary Grant as Philip Shayne, smooth, sophisticated, and suave investment executive and “perfect gentleman”

Bermuda, Spring 1962

Film: That Touch of Mink
Release Date: June 14, 1962
Director: Delbert Mann
Tailor: Cardinal Clothes (credited “for Cary Grant’s suits”)

Background

After being first splashed, then swept, off her feet by the charming tycoon Philip Shayne (Cary Grant), unemployed Manhattanite Cathy Timerblake (Doris Day) finds herself accepting his impromptu invitation to join her for a summery respite in Bermuda. “Nowhere else in the world an you see beaches with pink sand,” Philip promises.

Having purchased every seat on a Pan Am passenger jet to Bermuda, Philip is there to meet her as she deplanes, chauffeuring her in his 1961 Citroën roadster to their luxurious suite at the Victoria Hotel, which is doubled on screen by the Fairmont Miramar Hotel in Santa Monica. Cathy tries to allow herself to enjoy the glamorous getaway, but she feels judged everywhere she goes by everyone she sees.

What’d He Wear?

“During summer I’ve taken to wearing beige, washable poplin suits,” Cary Grant explained in his sartorial advice column included in the winter 1967/68 issue of GQ. “They’re inexpensive and, if kept clean and crisp, acceptable almost anywhere at any time, even in the evening. Also, the coat can be worn with gray flannels at the seashore or in the country…”

Grant appears to be following his own advice in That Touch of Mink, sporting a beige summer-weight sports coat for his trip to Bermuda. Constructed from a light cotton gabardine, this single-breasted sport jacket has a high-fastening three-button front, with the three buttons spaced widely apart to look proportional on Cary Grant’s tall, 6’2″ frame. Particularly in his later films like Charade, Grant’s habit of buttoning only his lower jacket buttons emerged, seen here when he only fastens the lower two on his beige jacket.

Beige has been Cathy's signature color up to this point in That Touch of Mink, and Philip matching her with his summer sports coat shows that they're truly in sync for the first time in the movie, particularly as she is outfitted in the new Bergdorf Goodman suit that Philip paid for and coordinated with the help of the laconic Leonard.

Beige has been Cathy’s signature color up to this point in That Touch of Mink, and Philip matching her with his summer sports coat shows that they’re truly in sync for the first time in the movie, particularly as she is outfitted in the new Bergdorf Goodman suit that Philip paid for and coordinated with the help of the laconic Leonard.

The jacket has a single vent, full chest, and rounded front skirt opening that cuts away at the lowest button. The patch pockets on the hips are rounded on the bottom and covered with flaps, and there is no breast pocket. There are two non-functioning buttons spaced apart on the cuff of each sleeve.

Throughout That Touch of Mink, Philip Shayne maintains a base layer of office-appropriate dress: white or blue dress shirts, a tie, and the trousers from one of his conservatively colored business suits, allowing for situational variance by taking off his suit jacket when it’s not needed and replacing it either with contextually appropriate top layers whether it’s a comfortable navy cardigan when not taking visitors at his office or this beige sports coat in Bermuda.

In Bermuda, Philip wears a pale blue cotton shirt with a point collar and double (French) cuffs. While the shirt would still be appropriate for the office, the blue color dresses it down to a level of informality appropriate for the context while also flattering Grant’s suntanned complexion. Philip wears a slate gray silk tie in a four-in-hand knot. (Though a brief continuity error during a scene in the hotel hallway appears to show Grant wearing a white shirt and gray silk tie.)

Cathy and Philip share a smile as they walk through their hotel lobby.

Cathy and Philip share a smile as they walk through their hotel lobby.

As suggested earlier, Philip’s dark gray single forward-pleated trousers are likely orphaned from the business suit he wore on the day that he met Cathy. Assuming that these trousers do belong to that opening scene suit, they would be fitted with the actor’s preferred buckle-tab side adjusters, or “side loops” as Grant described them to GQ, and they exhibit the same sheen indicative of the possibility of a mohair/wool blend. The legs are tapered down to the plain-hemmed bottoms which break high over his shoes.

A glamorous hotel arrival.

A glamorous hotel arrival.

“The moccasin type of shoe is, to me, almost essential and especially convenient when traveling, since they can be easily slipped off in the airplane or car,” offers Grant in the same article, and his jet-setting Philip Shayne exemplifies the actor’s own advice with the slip-ons he wears during his tenure in Bermuda. When bringing Cathy back to the hotel, he appears to be wearing dark burgundy tassel loafers and light gray socks.

While not changing the rest of his clothes, Philip evidently freshened up his footwear for his carriage ride around town with Cathy, as he’s now sporting a pair of charcoal suede tassel loafers with mid-gray socks.

Philip is all smiles as the couple rides through town, but Cathy feels judgmental eyes upon them from everyone they encounter.

Philip is all smiles as the couple rides through town, but Cathy feels judgmental eyes upon them from everyone they encounter.

Months after the couple’s uncomfortable interlude in Bermuda, Philip’s summery outfit makes a reprise for the movie’s epilogue, albeit with a warm yellow shirt and tie, as Philip walks with Cathy and their baby—and Philip’s neurotic associate Roger (Gig Young)—through Central Park, where they run into Roger’s therapist, Dr. Gruber (Alan Hewitt).

Philip abandons his business-friendly tones after he and Cathy begin raising a family. Even Roger looks more relaxed in his seersucker sport jacket than his usual business suits and odd waistcoats.

Philip abandons his business-friendly tones after he and Cathy begin raising a family. Even Roger looks more relaxed in his seersucker sport jacket than his usual business suits and odd waistcoats.

Interestingly, Philip’s choice of a yellow point-collar shirt and a coordinating gold micro-textured silk tie offers more of a holiday-friendly aesthetic than the businesslike blues and grays when he was actually in Bermuda. Perhaps this colorful sartorial direction signals the character’s more laidback demeanor after settling down and beginning a family with Cathy?

The Car

Philip Shayne’s preferred wheels for motoring through Bermuda is a “Panama beige” 1961 Citroën DS 19 Décapotable Usine Chapron, the roadster model of the iconic DS 19 that set a new standard for the French automotive industry.

As noted in the film's "Goofs" entry on IMDB, not only should Philip not be driving on the right side of the road as Bermuda enforces left-side driving, he shouldn't be driving himself as Bermuda doesn't offer car rental and only residents are allowed to own cars. It makes for a picturesque scene, though!

As noted in the film’s “Goofs” entry on IMDB, not only should Philip not be driving on the right side of the road as Bermuda enforces left-side driving, he shouldn’t be driving himself as Bermuda doesn’t offer car rental and only residents are allowed to own cars. It makes for a picturesque scene, though!

Citroën introduced the DS 19 in 1955, kicking off a groundbreaking two-decade production run that immediately grabbed attention for its futuristic design that looked—as structuralist philosopher Roland Barthes wrote in 1957—as though it had “fallen from the sky”. This aerodynamic design was the result of a collaboration between Italian sculptor Flaminio Bertoni and French aeronautical engineer André Lefèbvre. The DS 19 was also considered a technological triumph for innovations like Paul Magès’ hydropneumatic self-leveling suspension that included an automatic leveling system for providing a smooth driving experience over rough or uneven terrain as well as its power steering and the “semi-automatic” transmission that still required shifting by hand but without the need of a manual clutch.

Over its twenty years and three generations of production, Citroën sold 1,455,746 DS 19 automobiles in various configurations from sedans and wagons to convertibles like the roadster introduced in 1961, the very model driven by Cary Grant in That Touch of Mink.

1961 Citroën DS 19 Décapotable Usine Chapron

Body Style: 2-door roadster

Layout: front-engine, front-wheel-drive (FWD)

Engine: 116.7 cu. in. (1.9 L) Citroën inline-four cylinder

Power: 76 hp (57 kW; 78 PS) @ 4500 RPM

Torque: 103 lb·ft (139 N·m) @ 3000 RPM

Transmission: 4-speed manual with automatic clutch

Wheelbase: 123 inches (1325 mm)

Length: 189.8 inches (4820 mm)

Width: 70.5 inches (1790 mm)

Height: 57.1 inches (1450 mm)

You can read more about the Citroën DS 19 driven in That Touch of Mink, with registration plates P3129, at IMCDB or find specs about the model itself at Automobile Catalog.

Cary Grant as Philip Shayne in That Touch of Mink (1962)

Cary Grant as Philip Shayne in That Touch of Mink (1962)

How to Get the Look

As a debonair tycoon played by Cary Grant, Philip Shayne elegantly balances his conservative business wear with resort-appropriate garb, dressed and ready for both a touristy ride through Bermuda or an impromptu business meeting.

  • Beige summer-weight cotton gabardine single-breasted 3-button sport jacket with notch lapels, straight flapped hip pockets, spaced 2-button cuffs, and single vent
  • Pale blue cotton shirt with point collar and double/French cuffs
  • Slate gray silk tie
  • Dark gray mohair/wool single forward-pleated suit trousers with buckle-tab side adjusters, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Charcoal suede moc-toe tassel loafers
  • Gray socks

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

A gentleman always allows the lady to undress first.


Magic City: Ben the Butcher’s White Linen Guayabera

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Danny Huston as Ben "the Butcher" Diamond in "Feeding Frenzy", episode 1.02 of Magic CIty (2012-2013)

Danny Huston as Ben “the Butcher” Diamond in “Feeding Frenzy”, episode 1.02 of Magic City (2012-2013)

Vitals

Danny Huston as Ben “the Butcher” Diamond, sadistic and volatile Miami gangster

Miami Beach, spring 1959

Series: Magic City
Episodes:
– “Feeding Frenzy” (Episode 1.02, dir: Ed Bianchi, aired April 13, 2012)
– “The Harder They Fall” (Episode 1.06, dir: Ed Bianchi, aired May 11, 2012)
– “Crime and Punishment” (Episode 2.01, dir: Clark Johnson, aired June 14, 2013)
Creator: Mitch Glazer
Costume Designer: Carol Ramsey

Background

Considering classic gangland style evokes images of pinstripe suits, flashy jewelry, and wide-brimmed fedoras… but what do gangsters wear when the sun’s at its brightest? On #MafiaMonday, let’s travel down to sunny Miami Beach where—even in the middle of January—mobster Ben “the Butcher” Diamond is dressed in lightweight linen for days by the swimming pool and nights at the cocktail lounge in Starz’s canceled-too-soon period drama Magic City.

What’d He Wear?

Ben the Butcher’s summer-friendly style includes a variety of colorful shirts from across the rainbow, from deep purple and seafoam green to bright yellow and baby blue. Villain that he is, he looks natural in his black linen shirt, but he also embraces the comfortably airy nature of white linen.

In the first season, Ben’s go-to white linen shirt is a classic guayabera, the Cuban dress shirt distinctive for its decorative alforzas and the four patch pockets—two on the chest, two on the hips—each decorated with a pointed yoke and decorative button. It is this full complement of four pockets that makes a true guayabera, as the Ramon Puig website writes:

History traces the roots of the guayabera back to the beginning of the 18th century to the province of Sancti Espiritus, Cuba where Ramon Puig was born. As legend has it, an Andalusian immigrant by the name of Jose Gonzalez asked his wife Encarnacion to make him a long-sleeve white linen shirt with four large pockets so that he could carry his cigars, writing instruments, handkerchief and “otras cositas” (other small things) during the course of his work day. The elegance and overall practicality of the shirt caught on with the local “guayaberos” (guava farmers) who then filled the lower pockets with guayabas (guava fruits) and baptized the shirt “guayabera.”

The second distinctive feature of a guayabera, the alforzas, are also present on Ben’s shirt. These vertical strips run from shoulder to hem, met at each end with a pointed yoke finished with a decorative button similar to the pocket detail. Ben’s white shirt has a single set of alforzas down each chest panel through the center of the pockets as well as three on the back.

Ben’s white guayabera appears to be a size too large for him, though this—as well as its lightweight linen shirting—would make it a very breezy garment for a warm day in Miami Beach.

Production photo of Danny Huston taking aim as Ben Diamond, clad in a white guayabera in "Feeding Frenzy" (Episode 1.02).

Production photo of Danny Huston taking aim as Ben Diamond, clad in a white guayabera in “Feeding Frenzy” (Episode 1.02).

Ben wears the shirt’s cuffs loosely rolled up in “Feeding Frenzy” (Episode 1.02), though he’s fastened them—either with buttons or cuff links—for his late meeting with Bel and Ike in “The Harder They Fall” (Episode 1.06).

For the shirt’s first appearance in “Feeding Frenzy”, worn with a pair of plain black trousers, Ben is taking a phone call in his living room when he grows annoyed with his girlfriend Lily’s dog and, swapping the phone in his hand for a .38-caliber revolver, marches outside to quell the dog’s barking before all-too-calmly resuming his call. As he’s relaxing at home, he wears a pair of elegant black velvet Prince Albert slippers with black leather trim and gold embroidering on the vamps.

MAGIC CITY

Following that episode, Ben restricts his on-screen white shirts to evening visits to the Miramar Playa’s swanky Atlantis Lounge, first when accompanied by Del for a private meeting with Ike Evans in “The Harder They Fall” (Episode 1.06).

For this outing, he wears a pair of off-white trousers, possibly the same cream-colored Brooks Brothers trousers made from 100% Irish linen that he would also wear with many of his other shirts. If so, they have a zip fly, straight side pockets, and jetted back pockets that are all covered by the untucked shirt hem. The plain-hemmed bottoms break cleanly over his tan leather shoes.

Ben and Bel call on Ike for a late meeting at the Atlantis Lounge in "The Harder They Fall" (Episode 1.06).

Ben and Bel call on Ike for a late meeting at the Atlantis Lounge in “The Harder They Fall” (Episode 1.06).

The second season premiere, “Crime and Punishment” (Episode 2.01), is set in spring 1959, shortly after the first season ends. Again, Ben makes a grand entrance to the Atlantis Lounge, bedecked in a new white linen shirt but back to the plain black trousers, worn with black leather shoes that may possibly be his bicycle-toe buckle-strap ALDO loafers seen in other episodes.

The second season shirt could be accurately described as a “pocketless guayabera” as it retains the classic alforza pleats though they are unencumbered by pockets as they make their vertical journey down from shoulder to hem, met by a decorative button at each end, similar to the black Renato shirt he wears throughout the series. This white shirt also has a concealed fly front and double (French) cuffs, which he dresses with a set of gold cuff links that each consist of a rectangular frame with a horizontal gold bar across the center.

MAGIC CITY

Ben wears jewelry apropos his name, notably the large diamond shining from the gold ring on his right pinky. On the opposing hand, he wears his classic gold wristwatch. In the first season, this timepiece has a round black dial with gold non-numeric markers on a gold case, strapped to his left wrist on a black leather band.

Accessorizing like a gangster: pinky ring, gold watch, and nickel-plated .38.

Accessorizing like a gangster: pinky ring, gold watch, and nickel-plated .38.

For Magic City‘s second season, Ben would swap out his gold watch for a Hamilton Electric with a light silver dial and gold numeric markers on a dark brown alligator strap. Given how many of these particular scenes are set inside, Ben has no need to wear his usual black Victory sunglasses, though they would be a natty touch to this summer-friendly ensemble.

The Gun

The Smith & Wesson Model 10 with its four-inch barrel spent the better half of the 20th century as the sidearm of choice for most American police departments, apropos the revolver’s original designation as the Smith & Wesson “Military & Police Model” when it was introduced to the market in 1899.

While a professional killer like Ben Diamond would no doubt appreciate the reliability of this venerable weapon, there’s no way the unapologetic gangster would want to carry a blued steel model that could be mistaken for a police officer’s weapon, instead selecting his armament finished in a bright nickel that gleams when drawn under the shining Florida sun.

Don't do it, Ben!

Don’t do it, Ben!

The selection seems to be in line with Ben Diamond’s firearm preferences as he also makes use of a M1911A1, the classic .45 pistol made famous by American GIs during World War II, though Ben the Butcher’s 1911 is nickel-plated unlike the military-issued models in their blued or “parkerized” finish.

How to Get the Look

Danny Huston as Ben "the Butcher" Diamond in "Feeding Frenzy", episode 1.02 of Magic City (2012-2013)

Danny Huston as Ben “the Butcher” Diamond in “Feeding Frenzy”, episode 1.02 of Magic City (2012-2013)

Ben Diamond illustrates how to elevate a white shirt and black trousers into an interesting summer ensemble that transcends its own relative simplicity.

  • White lightweight linen guayabera shirt with spread collar, four patch pockets (with pointed yokes and decorative buttons), and double-strip alforzas down each front panel with decorative buttons
  • Black flat front trousers with belt loops, zip fly, straight/on-seam side pockets, button-through jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt
  • Black velvet Prince Albert slippers with gold-embroidered vamps
  • Gold pinky ring with set-in diamond
  • Gold wristwatch with a dark leather strap

If you’re more into the all-white look for summer, you can follow Ben’s example of swapping out the black trousers and slippers for cream linen slacks and tan derbies.

Ben’s only other white shirt makes a brief appearance in the penultimate episode when he accosts Lily in the pool while wearing a white linen Cubavera shirt with fancy taupe, brown, and black embroidered striping down each chest panel. This unique garment seen may possibly be the subject of its own BAMF Style post at a later date.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the series.

The Quote

Abso-fucking-lutely I’m threatening you.

First Man: Neil Armstrong’s Gun Club Check and Omega

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Ryan Gosling as Neil Armstrong in First Man (2018)

Ryan Gosling as Neil Armstrong in First Man (2018)

Vitals

Ryan Gosling as Neil Armstrong, NASA astronaut and former U.S. Navy pilot

Houston, Texas, August 1962 through March 1966

Film: First Man
Release Date: October 12, 2018
Director: Damien Chazelle
Costume Designer: Mary Zophres

Background

In addition to being my 30th birthday, today is also the 50th anniversary of when Neil Armstrong became the first person to step onto the surface of the Moon at 02:56:15 UTC on July 21, 1969, six hours after he and Buzz Aldrin landed the Apollo Lunar Module Eagle as part of the Apollo 11 spaceflight, a mission also manned by command module pilot Michael Collins.

Last year, Damien Chazelle directed Ryan Gosling in First Man, a biopic focused on Neil Armstrong’s life and career through the 1960s from the tragic death of his young daughter Karen to his triumphant first steps on the Moon… “one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind.”

First Man traces Armstrong’s career as an astronaut back to his initial application that led to interviews for astronaut selection at Ellington Air Force Base in Houston, Texas, on August 13, 1962. The astronauts chosen would be attached to Project Gemini, NASA’s second human spaceflight program and so named for its goal of sending two humans into space, an expansion on the previous Project Mercury’s achieved goal of sending one man into Earth’s orbit…and returning him safely, of course.

Pete Conrad: Neil, I was sorry to hear about your daughter.
Neil Armstrong: I’m sorry, is there a question?
Pete Conrad: What I… What I mean is… Do you think it’ll have an effect?
Neil Armstrong: I think it would be unreasonable to assume that it wouldn’t have some effect.

In addition to his celestial achievements during the 1960s, First Man also focused on Neil Armstrong’s personal life, including how the family grieved and healed following Karen’s death and how his relationship with his wife Janet (Claire Foy) evolved over the course of a decade that ended with one small step on the lunar surface.

What’d He Wear?

The excellent period costumes in First Man were designed by Mary Zophres, working again with director Damien Chazelle and actor Ryan Gosling after their successful earlier collaboration in La La Land (2016). Zophres shared insight during a November 2018 interview with Janet Kinosian for the Los Angeles Times, published about a month after the film’s release.

For the world of Gemini-era NASA, Zophres considered that “the story centers in Houston, and they were in a secluded suburb outside of Houston and had maybe three stores they shopped at — Sears and a couple of others,” explaining her more conservative approach to dressing the film’s characters despite the increasingly colorful palette of 1960s menswear. “I proposed to Damien early on that it’s not the Brady Bunch, and the research backed us up, so we took a very conservative approach to the way the people dressed.”

One item of muted color that gets plenty of wear from Neil Armstrong’s closet is a gun club check flannel sport jacket. Also known as the Coigach, Alan Flusser describes this Scottish-originated check as “an even check pattern with rows of alternating colors.” In Armstrong’s case, these colors alternate between brown and black horizontal stripes that cross-cross olive and blue vertical stripes.

FIRST MAN

The single-breasted sports coat has narrow notch lapels with short notches that roll to a three-button front. The jacket has two-button cuffs and a welted breast pocket, though details like the hip pockets and the back vent situation are not readily available from the garment’s screen appearances.

FIRST MAN

Armstrong’s go-to office shirt in the film’s early scenes, set throughout 1962, is light blue oxford-cloth cotton with a large button-down collar, front placket, breast pocket, and box-pleated back. Most notable are the short sleeves often associated with NASA engineers of this era.

Though the simple blue short-sleeved button-down marks him as far from a fashion plate, Armstrong further assures his exclusion from Eleanor Lambert's storied International Best Dressed Hall of Fame List by wearing it buttoned to the neck, sans tie.

Though the simple blue short-sleeved button-down marks him as far from a fashion plate, Armstrong further assures his exclusion from Eleanor Lambert’s storied International Best Dressed Hall of Fame List by wearing it buttoned to the neck, sans tie.

When dressing up for his interview for astronaut selection in August 1962, Armstrong dresses up the shirt with his gun check sport jacket and a skinny navy blue tie patterned with a series of white six-segmented parallelograms arranged like “downhill”-direction stripes.

Armstrong's well-intended sartorial approach would have benefited from full-length shirt sleeves, but I suppose 1960s NASA is one of the few places where wearing a short-sleeved shirt and tie actually helps during your job interview.

Armstrong’s well-intended sartorial approach would have benefited from full-length shirt sleeves, but I suppose 1960s NASA is one of the few places where wearing a short-sleeved shirt and tie actually helps during your job interview.

The interview sequence begins with a close shot of Armstrong’s feet, including the cuffs of his dark navy blue trousers, recalling a story that Zophres relayed from Ryan Gosling’s first costume fitting with “the perfect pair of trousers:”

I’d found a pair of 1960s dead stock [unworn] with the tags still on. They were Ryan’s perfect size; I don’t think we even had to hem them! It was the very first fitting and the second trousers we tried; I remember saying, “OK, that’s Neil.”

Armstrong’s feet in this sequence are dressed in black leather apron-toe four-eyelet derby shoes and black socks.

FIRST MAN

By spring 1966, the on-screen Armstrong has finally graduated to long-sleeved shirts under his sports coats and suit jackets, abandoning the NASA-associated practice of short-sleeved shirts with skinny ties.

Having noted that Sears likely directed most of the astronauts’ sense of style, Zophres explained to the Los Angeles Times that she “looked at Sears’ period catalogs and paid attention to the colors that were available and also checked the material’s content. There were light yellows and ivories and such. And I also used shirts with texture, natural fibers where you could actually see the warp and weft of the cotton—the vertical and horizontal—since there were so many close-ups. Today’s material just looks thinner and flimsier for some reason; it doesn’t have the same texture that a white cotton dress shirt from the 1960s had. When you wash them, they sort of come alive vs. disappear.”

Armstrong’s white cotton long-sleeve shirt for the Gemini 8 presser has a point collar and is worn with a slim black tie with a pattern of small white boxes, appropriately evoking a celestial scene of stars across the night sky. He is possibly wearing the same brown wool flat front trousers with side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups (cuffs) that he wore when dancing with Janet two years earlier, though the navy trousers from his 1962 interview would also be suitable.

NASA Exceptional Service Medal pinned to his left lapel, Armstrong fields the media during a press conference for Gemini 8 in the spring of 1966.

NASA Exceptional Service Medal pinned to his left lapel, Armstrong fields the media during a press conference for Gemini 8 in the spring of 1966.

The Gemini 8 presser calls for Armstrong to wear his NASA Exceptional Service Medal on his left lapel, a commendation established in July 1959 that recognizes U.S. government employees who have shown “significant, sustained performance characterized by unusual initiative or creative ability that clearly demonstrates substantial improvement which contributes to NASA programs.” The light blue horizontally ribbed grosgrain ribbon is flanked on each side by a yellow vertical stripe, each bisected by a thin navy stripe. Suspended from the ribbon is a round , 39mm-wide gold medallion with “NA” and “SA” flanking a grid globe resting on two olive branches.

A simpler but no less symbolic accessory that Armstrong wears at all times is the gold wedding band on the third finger of his left hand.

First Man also features Neil Armstrong wearing several Omega watches, an accurate reflection of Omega’s storied history with the space program rather than straight product placement. During the scenes of Armstrong returning to work in early 1962 shortly after the death of his daughter, he is depicted wearing a classic steel Omega CK 2605 with a silver dial and 6:00 sub-dial, gold markers and “dauphine” hands, and a tan leather strap.

Even before NASA's best and brightest were sporting Omegas in orbit, Armstrong wears a classic CK 2605 during a mournful day at work in early 1962.

Even before NASA’s best and brightest were sporting Omegas in orbit, Armstrong wears a classic CK 2605 during a mournful day at work in early 1962.

Omega introduced the Speedmaster chronograph in 1957, intending its use for motorsports though its place in history would be during the space race rather than any car race. The durable, reliable, and fashionable watch caught the eye of astronauts like Wally Schirra, who first wore his personal Omega Speedmaster CK 2998 aboard the fifth manned U.S. space mission, Mercury-Atlas 8, in October 1962.

I took this photo of Michael Collins' Omega Speedmaster worn during Apollo 11 at the Smithsonian's traveling exhibit "Destination Moon" that was at the Heinz History Center in Pittsburgh from September 2018 through February 2019.

I took this photo of Michael Collins’ Omega Speedmaster worn during Apollo 11 at the Smithsonian’s traveling exhibit “Destination Moon” that was at the Heinz History Center in Pittsburgh from September 2018 through February 2019.

Less than three years later, the manual-winding Omega Speedmaster Professional Chronograph had passed all of NASA’s qualifying tests for space flight under extreme conditions and was approved to be the official watch of the space program on March 1, 1965. The same month, Gus Grissom and John Young would wear their Speedys during Gemini 3, and an Omega Speedmaster 105.003 was strapped to the left wrist of Ed White’s G4C space suit with a long nylon Velcro-secured strap during his famous space walk during Gemini 4 in June 1965.

Much was made of the fact that the iconic Omega Speedmaster would be appearing in First Man, reported on by Esquire, Forbes, and The Hollywood Reporter, and promoted by Omega as the company proudly supplied period-correct Speedmasters to the production. This was no doubt met with enthusiasm by its star Ryan Gosling, a vintage watch enthusiast, who would wear on screen both the ST 105.003 reference which was tested by NASA in 1964 and the ST 105.012 “Moon watch” that Armstrong famously wore both for his training and the eventual mission to the Moon.

Though during the lunar landing itself, Armstrong did leave his ST 105.012 inside the lunar module as a backup as the module’s electronic timer had malfunctioned and the Speedmaster was more reliable, thus making Buzz Aldrin‘s ST 105.012 the first actual watch to be worn on the Moon. Of his decision, Aldrin wrote, “few things are less necessary when walking around on the Moon than knowing what time it is in Houston, Texas. Nonetheless, being a watch guy, I decided to strap the Speedmaster onto my right wrist around the outside of my bulky spacesuit.”

Back on Earth, Armstrong sports his Omega Speedmaster Professional Chronograph through press conferences and internal meetings. The watch is housed in a 42mm stainless steel case with a slim black rotating bezel and black dial with three sub-dials. As he’s wearing it with a sport jacket and slacks rather than a space suit, Armstrong sticks to the classic steel link bracelet rather than the black Velcro-fastening nylon strap worn in orbit.

Having returned from his first mission in space, Armstrong wears a NASA-approved Speedmaster as he meets with the organization's top brass following Gemini 8.

Having returned from his first mission in space, Armstrong wears a NASA-approved Speedmaster as he meets with the organization’s top brass following Gemini 8.

You can see more of the screen-worn watches from First Man with context about their use in this Watch Advisor article. Though Aldrin’s Moon-worn Speedmaster was lost or stolen en route the Smithsonian Institution, you can find the real Neil Armstrong’s watch among the displays at the National Air and Space Museum in Washington, D.C.

What to Listen to

One of the most tender moments in First Man finds Neil and Janet dancing late at night to “Lunar Rhapsody” from the first of three records featuring the collaboration of thereminist (and podiatrist) Dr. Samuel J. Hoffman and exotica maestro Les Baxter.

“That’s an old favorite of mine… it’s an album made about 20 years ago, called Music Out of the Moon,” Armstrong stated when he played a cassette tape of tracks from the album, compiled for him by Hollywood producer Mickey Kapp, during Apollo 11’s flight back from the Moon.

Recorded and released in 1947, Music Out of the Moon was one of the first albums to have a full-color cover and considered the best-selling theremin record of all time.

How to Get the Look

Ryan Gosling as Neil Armstrong in First Man (2018)

Ryan Gosling as Neil Armstrong in First Man (2018)

Not everyone who worked at NASA in the ’60s wore white short-sleeved shirts and skinny ties… though Ryan Gosling’s Neil Armstrong is seen wearing his share of that combination in First Man. For meetings with the public and top brass, Armstrong dresses it up with a subdued but interesting gun check sport jacket and a long-sleeved shirt.

  • Brown, black, olive, and blue gun club check single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with slim notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and vented back
  • White cotton long-sleeve dress shirt
  • Black slim and straight tie with small white boxes
  • Dark flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black leather belt
  • Black leather apron-toe four-eyelet derby shoes
  • Black socks
  • Omega Speedmaster Professional ST 105.012 stainless steel “Moon watch” chronograph with black rotating bezel and black dial (with three sub-dials) on steel link bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and James R. Hansen’s definitive biography of Neil Armstrong.

The Quote

I had a few opportunities in the X-15 to observe the atmosphere. It was so thin, such a small part of the Earth that you could barely see it at all. And when you’re down here in the crowd and you look up, it looks pretty big and you don’t think about it too much… but when you get a different vantage point, it changes your perspective.

The Last Tycoon: Monroe Stahr’s Green Printed Shirt

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Matt Bomer as Monroe Stahr on The Last Tycoon (Episode 8: "An Enemy Among Us")

Matt Bomer as Monroe Stahr on The Last Tycoon (Episode 8: “An Enemy Among Us”)

Vitals

Matt Bomer as Monroe Stahr, charming studio wunderkind

Hollywood, February 1937

Series: The Last Tycoon
Episode: “An Enemy Among Us” (Episode 8)
Streaming Date: July 28, 2017
Director:
Scott Hornbacher
Developed By: Billy Ray
Costume Designer: Janie Bryant

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Do you celebrate Christmas in July? If so, do you struggle with finding just the right thing to wear for your holiday fun in the sun when celebrating with swimming pools and margaritas rather than snowmen and mulled wine?

On the much-too-short-lived Amazon original series The Last Tycoon, developed by Billy Ray from F. Scott Fitzgerald’s unfinished final novel, the young and dashing Hollywood hotshot Monroe Stahr (Matt Bomer) is rarely seen in anything less than a beautifully tailored three-piece suit or white tie and tails, but he gives himself a sartorial break in the name of love and leisure for a warm February morning on the terrace with his new paramour, aspiring actress Kathleen Moore (Dominique McElligott).

Ever the decent businessman and romantic partner, Monroe advises Kathleen not to sign or even discuss the details of her contract with Monroe’s studio with him without consulting her lawyer, citing that he’s well-aware that it’s his “job” to exploit her… to which she responds, “Okay, movie man. Exploit me.”

What’d He Wear?

Expert costume designer Janie Bryant brought her vast expertise and experience working on period dramas like Deadwood and Mad Men to create the enviable wardrobe for The Last Tycoon‘s elegant players from Hollywood’s fabled “Golden Age”.

The first seven episodes of The Last Tycoon established Monroe Stahr as a dapper dresser with an impressive rotation of beautifully tailored three-piece suits with elegant double-breasted jackets and interesting suitings that add much character to the debonair movie executive. We rarely see this workaholic at leisure, which makes his briefly seen casual attire all the more significant when he emerges on his terrace in the eighth episode, “An Enemy Among Us”, sporting a green Aloha shirt, cream Bermuda shorts, and loafers.

Bryant skillfully adapted a more modern approach to casual dressing with classic flair, dressing Matt Bomer in not just any off-the-rack Hawaiian shirt but one with a retro-inspired pattern and cut that could have indeed been among the summer wardrobe of the rich and famous during the latter interwar period. The modern Aloha shirt is considered to have originated in the early 1930s at the Waikiki-based King-Smith Clothiers and Dry Goods shop established by Chinese merchant Ellery Chun, who began advertising his Aloha shirts in The Honolulu Advertiser on June 28, 1935. While locals were first to take notice, buying almost all of Chen’s in-house stock, the natty shirts were quick to catch on with tourists who brought them back to the American mainland over the course of the decade.

Monroe Stahr would have no doubt been turning heads in 1937 Los Angeles with his rich forest green camp shirt printed in vivid white and red bird silhouettes flying over the clouds with what my friend at Aloha Spotter has described as a “border pattern” of red and white palm trees bordering the sleeves, back, and the large white sew-through buttons down the plain front.

THE LAST TYCOON

Aloha Spotter found this retro-styled shirt from Best Made that conveys the spirit, if not the exact pattern, of Monroe’s mid-’30s shirt. There are other options if you’re really leaning into the Christmas theme… but I’d recommend staying neutral.

Aloha shirts enjoyed their greatest boom in the decades following World War II, beginning with the waves of American service members who returned from serving in the Pacific with Hawaiian shirts. The dawn of the Jet Age that increased ease of travel to the Hawaiian islands in the 1950s, Hawaii’s admission to American statehood in August 1959, and the popularity of films highlighting the region like Blue Hawaii (1961) elevated the Aloha shirt to high fashion thanks to manufacturers like Alfred Shaheen and Tori Richard.

Most Aloha shirts have the classic flat camp collar with the left-side loop, but this shirt’s wide, sharp collar points are indeed more consistent with how a shirt from the late 1930s would have been styled.

THE LAST TYCOON

Luckily for Monroe, his warm day at home is made more palatable by the era’s increasing acceptance of shorts for men. Like much of popular menswear, shorts have a military pedigree that, in this case, extends to the days of the British empire when the British Army was seeking more comfortable alternatives to uniform trousers in tropical and desert climates. By the roaring ’20s, bankers and businessmen in Bermuda were inspired by the new military garment and soon adopted shorts of their own, establishing what would become an accepted business uniform in Bermuda of wearing a jacket, tie, and heavy gray wool knee socks with a pair of tailored flannel shorts that extended to approximately six inches above the knee.

As tourism to Bermuda increased over the following decade thanks to the expansion of air services to the islands, travelers took note of the trend and began spreading the practice of wearing shorts back to the United States, Canada, and England. The popularity of “Bermuda shorts” and their newfound association with tropical leisure rather than business meant seeing shorts in brighter and lighter fabrics rather than the staid gray flannel of the Bermuda business uniform. By the late 1930s, Bermuda shorts had a firm stronghold among the leisurewear of America’s upper class with no less than General George C. Marshall enjoying the world’s last peacetime summer before World War II, sporting a summer-weight sport jacket, bow tie, and Bermuda shorts in this August 1939 photo from Fire Island. (You can read more about the history of Bermuda shorts in these articles from Brand Riddle, Condé Nast Traveler, and GARMANY.)

Monroe plays it safe by restricting his Bermuda shorts to his home, sporting a pair of cream pleated shorts that rise a few inches above his knees. The shorts have side pockets and jetted back pockets with the back left pocket closing through a loop.

To co-opt another F. Scott Fitzgerald's titles (itself borrowed from Rupert Brooke), one could say that Monroe Stahr has landed in this side of paradise.

To co-opt another F. Scott Fitzgerald’s titles (itself borrowed from Rupert Brooke), one could say that Monroe Stahr has landed in This Side of Paradise.

Monroe appears to be wearing brown leather penny loafers, another indication of his cutting-edge style as this type of shoe had only been developed the previous year by G.H. Bass & Co.

Since the shoe’s inception in 1936, the Wilton, Maine-based manufacturer has marketed the shoe as “Weejuns” (from “Norwegians”), though the American prep school practice of sliding a penny into the distinctive diamond-shaped slit in the leather strip across the shoe’s saddle popularized its “penny loafer” moniker.

Again, with apologies to F. Scott's titles, this screenshot could easily be captioned The Beautiful and Damned.

Again, with apologies to F. Scott’s titles, this screenshot could easily be captioned The Beautiful and Damned.

Monroe wears his gold signet ring with an etched “S.” on his right pinky. Though the letter no doubt signifies his adopted professional surname of Stahr, it could also stand for his birth surname of Sternberg.

How to Get the Look

Matt Bomer and Dominique McElligott on The Last Tycoon (Episode 8: "An Enemy Among Us")

Matt Bomer and Dominique McElligott on The Last Tycoon (Episode 8: “An Enemy Among Us”)

Not surprising for an L.A. wunderkind, Monroe Stahr proves to be on the forefront of the fashion battleground, adopting modern menswear staples that had only just been introduced like the Aloha shirt (1935), Bermuda shorts (1920s), and penny loafers (1936). This casual and comfortable ensemble also sets an unintentional template for a classic approach to channeling some holiday color for a summertime adventure.

  • Forest green Aloha shirt printed in white-and-red palm tree “border pattern” and white-and-red flying birds-over-clouds pattern with wide sharp camp collar, plain front, and short sleeves
  • Cream pleated Bermuda shorts with side pockets and jetted back pockets (with back left button-loop closure)
  • Brown leather penny loafers
  • Gold monogrammed signet ring, right pinky

Several retro-minded retailers carry a selection of Bermuda shorts that would suit the purpose here such as Mango, with its Bermuda shorts in sand-colored cotton or off-white linen, and Scott Fraser Collection, with the brand’s vintage-inspired high-waisted riviera shorts complete with pleats and button-tab side adjusters.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check it out on Amazon Video. It’s truly a shame that The Last Tycoon had to end its run after just a single nine-episode season as it was a well-acted, well-dressed, and well-plotted series that showed plenty of promise for future storytelling.

Of course, you could also read F. Scott Fitzgerald’s novel The Love of the Last Tycoon and watch the first cinematic adaptation, released in 1976 starring Robert De Niro as the debonair but doomed Monroe Stahr.

The Quote

It’s my job to exploit you!

Footnote

I had always believed “Christmas in July” to be a more modern concept until I recently learned of a 1940 film directed by Preston Sturges entitled Christmas in July starring Dick Powell, Ellen Drew, and Sturges stock player William Demarest. Curiously enough, production on Christmas in July lasted from June 1 to June 29, 1940, ending just two days before the actual month of July!

The Band Wagon: Fred Astaire Dances in Beige and Yellow

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Fred Astaire and Cyd Charisse in The Band Wagon (1953)

Fred Astaire and Cyd Charisse in The Band Wagon (1953)

Vitals

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter, musical comedy star

New York, Spring 1953

Film: The Band Wagon
Release Date: August 7, 1953
Director: Vincente Minnelli
Costume Designer: Mary Ann Nyberg

Background

On National Dance Day (July 27), who better to feature on BAMF Style than that most elegant, sophisticated, and talented of dancers, Fred Astaire. In particular, let’s look at an iconic dance sequence in The Band Wagon, that most homaged and visually spectacular of Astaire’s prolific filmography.

We encounter song and dance man Tony Hunter as he gets out his aggression about the Faustian creative direction of what was supposed to be his latest lighthearted musical comedy as well as his contentious relationship with his co-star, virtuoso ballerina Gabrielle Gerard (Cyd Charisse). Having walked off the set of the show, he takes out his anger in an uncharacteristically destructive tantrum, ravaging the sheet music, books, and records in his hotel room, forced to a halt when he encounters an “unbreakable” record of Micaëla’s aria from Carmen. Interrupted by a guest at the door, he throws the record to the ground only to be shocked to be greeted by the very object of his furious scorn, an apologetic Gabrielle: “Lady, you must have the wrong apartment!”

Tony’s attitude toward Gaby is softened by her genuine appreciation for the art he keeps in his hotel room and finds himself moved by her tearful insecurities and frustrations with the show, and the two dancers decide to put their issues aside and talk through how to make the production best for all involved.

Gaby: Tony, can you and I really dance together?
Tony: I don’t know… let’s find out!

In the hopes of finding out their performance chemistry, Tony and Gaby embark on a carriage ride that spirits them away to a well-lit patio in Central Park populated only be dancing young couples and a five-piece band serenading them. The two silently stroll onto a secluded path, where they find themselves in each other’s arms for the iconic “Dancing in the Dark” dance sequence against the romantic backdrop of the New York City skyline at night.

What’d He Wear?

Tony and Gaby may be dancing in the dark, but he’s dressed in his brightest outfit yet! This natty summer-friendly ensemble consists of a beige tailored odd jacket with yellow shirt, coordinating tie, off-white trousers, and two-tone spectator shoes, accessorized as usual with colorful silk pocket square, askew tie clip, and silk sash for a belt. It’s the sort of outfit that doesn’t come to one naturally, but Fred Astaire’s successful execution supports his maxim that dressing well is like putting on a show as both require much rehearsal in order to get right.

Tony’s beige jacket is made from a lightweight material with imperfect slubbing indicative of either raw silk, linen, or a blend of both summer-friendly fabrics. The single-breasted jacket is perfectly tailored with the notch lapels rolling to a two-button front that fastens exactly at Fred Astaire’s natural waist, cleanly dividing the tie on the top half with the trousers on the bottom half.

As Alan Flusser wrote in Dressing the Man, “the placement of the coat’s waist button should divide the body so that the torso and legs appear at maximum length,” sage wisdom in general but particularly handy for a graceful hoofer like Fred Astaire.

"Oh, that's right, dancers shouldn't smoke," Tony sarcastically reminds himself after offering her his deck of Chesterfields. "You mind if I do?"

“Oh, that’s right, dancers shouldn’t smoke,” Tony sarcastically reminds himself after offering her his deck of Chesterfields. “You mind if I do?”

The beige jacket has short double vents, roped sleeveheads, and three-button cuffs that appear to be downsized versions of the mother-of-pearl or pearlesque plastic sew-through buttons used on the front. The hip pockets are flapped with a right-side ticket pocket also covered with a flap.

Tony wears a red-and-yellow paisley silk pocket square “puff-folded” in the jacket’s welted breast pocket, providing a colorful contrast just harmoniously bold enough to keep the interesting outfit from looking too monochromatic.

THE BAND WAGON

Tony’s yellow cotton shirt delivers a welcome colorful brightness to the look without contrasting too much against his neutral-toned jacket, trousers, and tie. While most gents almost certainly have an oxford-cloth button-down shirt in white, light blue, and possibly even pink, an OCBD in yellow cotton is an inspired and refreshing alternative, available from retailers like IZOD. Per Flusser, a yellow shirt’s “champagne sparkle can impart an élan and vitality to any suit from the browns through the grays to navy.”

The shirt has a button-down collar, front placket, and rounded barrel cuffs that close with a single button. The beige micro-textured silk tie is knotted in a perfect four-in-hand and held in place with a gold tie clip slotted in place just above the jacket’s buttoning point.

Tony and Gaby find their attitudes softening toward the other.

Tony and Gaby find their attitudes softening toward the other.

Fred Astaire’s appreciation for perfect tailoring gives him the sartorial freedom to experiment with flashier color palettes like this. On its own, every garment fits perfectly and, together, they harmonize beautifully with the jacket’s buttoning point neatly separating the shirt and tie on the top half from the full-fitting white trousers on the bottom as their elegant reverse pleats flare out from Astaire’s waistband through his legs to the bottoms finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

The dance begins...

The dance begins…

Fred Astaire has often been cited along Cary Grant as the best dressed American leading men, though while Grant often played it safe with elegant, simple, and timeless suits, Astaire embraced a more casual and colorful—but never ostentatious—approach with a breezy, knockabout charm that contrasted with his early on-screen image of the top hat, white tie, and tails, preferring “tailored sport jackets, colored shirts and slacks—the latter usually held up by the idiosyncratic use of an old tie or silk scarf in place of a belt.”

“In the way of belts, Astaire likes to use silk handkerchiefs—purely for utilitarian purposes rather than theatrical. He has a 31-inch waist and loses pounds when he is dancing. The resilient silk allows him to draw his pants right.” Astaire himself explained this practice to GQ during a 1957 interview: ‘I used to use old neckties for the same purpose but the handkerchiefs are better.’ At home he will use a belt, usually shoving the buckle to one side, ‘simply to get it out of the way.'” Similar to his pocket square, Astaire’s silk sash belt appears to be red with a speckled gold center band.

Like his entertainment contemporary Bing Crosby, Astaire seemed to prefer socks that screamed from his ankles, though his mustard hosiery with this outfit is comparatively muted when measured against the blue and red socks he wears elsewhere in The Band Wagon.

THE BAND WAGON

Perhaps the most essential item in the dancer’s wardrobe are his shoes, and Astaire wears a natty pair of burgundy and white spectator derbies. The outsoles and the apron-style toe-box are burgundy leather with a burgundy strip extending over the back of each elegantly long white leather vamp for the forward three of the five lace eyelets. The laces are burgundy to match the darker portion of the shoes.

It’s difficult to find modern-made spectator shoes that aren’t wingtip oxfords, though Stacy Baldwin seems to at least take a retro-minded approach with footwear like these unique two-tone derbies and these brown-and-tan cap-toe oxfords.

Promotional photo of Cyd Charisse and Fred Astaire for The Band Wagon.

Promotional photo of Cyd Charisse and Fred Astaire for The Band Wagon.

Tony wears his (and no doubt Astaire’s own) signature jewelry of a gold curb-chain bracelet on his left wrist and a gold signet ring on his right pinky.

Unbreakable indeed.

Unbreakable indeed.

The dapper dancer was known for his wardrobe both on- and off-screen, and the marvelous color cinematography by Harry Jackson (who died four days before the film was released) makes the most of Mary Ann Nyberg’s Academy Award-nominated costume design.

The Yellow Shirt Redux

A rainy opening means good luck!

The yellow shirt makes a brief reprise just before the show returns to New York for its Broadway opening, represented on screen with the famous “Girl Hunt” ballet in the spirit of Mickey Spillane. Outside the stage door, Tony and Gaby run into each other with the former wearing his previously seen yellow shirt but with a black-and-white plaid tie.

Gaby and Tony share one last moment before taking the stage.

Gaby and Tony share one last moment before taking the stage.

As it’s raining, the rest of his outfit is covered with a knee-length khaki raincoat with a covered fly, plain cuffs, and large patch hip pockets with flaps. Tony tops it off with a taupe brown fedora that has a wide black ribbed grosgrain silk band and coordinating black grosgrain edges.

How to Get the Look

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Fred Astaire as Tony Hunter in The Band Wagon (1953)

Fred Astaire blended elegance and interesting dressing both on- and off-screen, dressing brightly for dancing in the dark with this neutral-toned and beautifully tailored outfit accented with pops of color in all the right places.

  • Beige raw silk single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets with flapped ticket pocket, 3-button cuffs, and short double vents
  • Yellow cotton shirt with button-down collar, front placket, and 1-button rounded cuffs
  • Beige micro-textured silk tie
  • Gold tie clip
  • Off-white gabardine high-rise reverse-pleated trousers with side pockets and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Red-and-yellow silk sash belt
  • Burgundy-and-white apron-toe five-eyelet spectator derbies
  • Mustard yellow socks
  • Gold signet pinky ring
  • Gold curb-chain bracelet
  • Red-and-gold paisley silk pocket square

As the character of Tony Hunter was dressed consistent with Fred Astaire’s own personal style, I highly recommend reading his 1957 interview with GQ that explores the entertainer’s sartorial approach in his own words: “I never think of myself as spic and span or all duded out—just as someone who wants to be comfortable and satisfy his own taste.”

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. Musicals are not among my favorite movie genres, but the always charming Fred Astaire and his colorful supporting cast, the stunning color cinematography, and impressive song and dance numbers featuring some of the era’s top talent make The Band Wagon a winner.

The Band Wagon‘s signature dance number, Astaire and Cyd Charisse’s “Dancing in the Dark” performance, was paid homage by a white-suited Steve Martin and Gilda Radner in the April 22, 1978, episode of Saturday Night Live.

The Quote

Here we are, the only animals given the greatest means of communication—human speech—and all we do is snarl at each other.

William Powell’s Chalkstripe Suit in Manhattan Melodrama

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William Powell as Jim Wade in Manhattan Melodrama (1934)

William Powell as Jim Wade in Manhattan Melodrama (1934)

Vitals

William Powell as Jim Wade, crusading assistant district attorney

New York City, Spring 1934

Film: Manhattan Melodrama
Release Date: May 4, 1934
Director: W.S. Van Dyke
Costume Designer: Dolly Tree

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Happy birthday, William Powell! The suave actor was born July 29, 1892, in my hometown of Pittsburgh, though he moved to Kansas City as a teenager. He only stayed there three years before moving to New York at the age of 18 to pursue a career as an actor, eventually becoming one of the best known actors of Hollywood’s “golden era” with three Academy Award nominations for Best Actor recognizing his performances in The Thin Man (1934), My Man Godfrey (1936), and Life with Father (1947).

Powell’s chemistry with Myrna Loy, most famously showcased as detective couple Nick and Nora Charles in the “Thin Man” series, made them one of the most iconic on-screen duos, though their first of 14 cinematic collaborations was Manhattan Melodrama in 1934. This pre-Code crime drama co-starred Clark Gable as “Blackie” Gallagher, a smooth gangster and childhood friend of Powell’s Jim Wade, an honest lawyer who is forced to choose between his duty and his friendship as he rises the ranks from assistant district attorney to governor of New York.

Manhattan Melodrama was still in theaters on July 22, 1934, when infamous bank robber John Dillinger strolled into Chicago’s Biograph Theater with his new girlfriend, Polly Hamilton, and local brothel madam Anna Sage. Little did Dillinger know that Sage had tipped off federal agent Melvin Purvis to the outlaw’s whereabouts that evening. After Dillinger took in an hour and a half of watching the charismatic Gable pay the ultimate toll for his character’s crimes, he left the theater with Hamilton and Sage. Signaled by Sage’s conspicuous orange skirt, Purvis and his agents moved in with guns drawn, cornering Public Enemy Number One, as Special Agent Charles Winstead fired the fatal shots into Dillinger with his .45. More than 85 years later, the killing remains shrouded in controversy and mystery: Was Dillinger actually reaching for a pistol in his trouser pocket, or was he unarmed when he was killed? Was it even the real John Dillinger or a stand-in who was shot that evening?

Much as Dillinger’s ultimate fate was brought about by someone he believed to be his friend, so too was Blackie Gallagher’s execution sealed by his former friend Jim’s decision to prosecute him. Wracked by guilt, Jim sent a note to his erstwhile pal, apologizing but explaining that “I had to do it.” Blackie’s response? “Okay kid, I can take it. P.S. and can you dish it out.”

What’d He Wear?

After my weeklong beach vacation, it’s another Monday back at work for me and a return to the world of three-piece suits and ties. One of the most elegant actors of his time, William Powell was characteristically dressed in a sharp suit fashionable for the early 1930s as Jim Wade. One of my particular favorites was the briefly seen chalk-striped flannel three-piece suit he wears during the climactic courtroom scene for his successful prosecution of his former friend Blackie Gallagher. Given the staid setting of a courtroom, we can expect that Wade’s suiting is a conservative business color like blue or gray, most likely a medium-dark shade of the latter.

Peak lapels are typically associated with double-breasted jackets—to the extent that they’re also known as “double-breasted lapels”—but the cyclical nature of men’s fashion sees a return of single-breasted, peak-lapel suit jackets every 40 years or so, beginning with the late 1920s and early 1930s.

Additional character to Powell’s suit jacket comes from the shape of his peak lapels with slanted gorges and a full, rounded belly. The lapel shape emphasizes the shoulders, with their roped sleeveheads, and they roll to a single-button closure that fastens at the natural waist, suppressed for a more athletic silhouette.

The ventless suit jacket has a welted breast pocket (where Wade wears a white linen pocket square), straight flapped hip pockets and a jetted ticket pocket with no flap, and four-button cuffs at the end of each sleeve.

Jim Wade makes his impassioned case for the jury.

Jim Wade makes his impassioned case for the jury.

Jim Wade opts for a classic white cotton shirt, a simple and elegant choice that lends the appropriate gravitas to his suit. The shirt is appointed with the textbook definition of a point collar, though it could be argued that a collar with greater spread could be more complementary to William Powell’s lean frame and head shape. Wade’s white shirt also has squared double (French) cuffs, dressed with unobtrusive cuff links.

MANHATTAN MELODRAMA

Wade wears a woven silk tie in a neat micro grid check, similar to a Macclesfield, tied in a tight four-in-hand.

MANHATTAN MELODRAMA

The suit’s matching waistcoat (vest) has five buttons down the single-breasted front to the notched bottom. Powell wears all five fastened though standard practice for waistcoats is to leave the lowest button undone like a suit jacket. The waistcoat has two welted pockets, in line with the center of the five buttons, and Powell wears his character’s pocket watch in one of them.

MANHATTAN MELODRAMA

Little is seen of the trousers, but they have an appropriately high rise that conceals the top under the waistcoat and are detailed consistent with ’30s trends with pleats and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms. His shoes are dark oxfords, the most appropriate footwear for the suit and occasion.

MANHATTAN MELODRAMA

Particularly in the cooler months, hats and coats were still a de facto requirement for gents in the early ’30s. Jim Wade wears a light felt fedora with a black ribbed grosgrain silk band.

His long, heavy tweed overcoat is made from a light-colored birdseye wool cloth with a 6×3-buttoning double-breasted front for an extra layer of warmth against the chill of a Manhattan spring, reinforced by a self-belt. The coat also has peak lapels and large patch pockets on the hips with rectangular flaps and rounded bottoms.

MANHATTAN MELODRAMA

Wade completes his outerwear with a light-colored scarf with dark stripes spaced just under an inch apart.

How to Get the Look

William Powell as Jim Wade in Manhattan Melodrama (1934)

William Powell as Jim Wade in Manhattan Melodrama (1934)

While Jim Wade’s three-piece suit may sacrifice formality for its unique and fashionable detailing such as a single-button jacket with full-bellied peak lapels and flapped ticket pocket, the debonair William Powell wears it with his characteristically smooth panache that never fails to command the courtroom.

  • Dark chalk-stripe flannel suit:
    • Single-breasted 1-button jacket with full-bellied peak lapels (with slanted gorges), welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, flapped ticket pocket, 4-button cuffs, and ventless back
    • Single-breasted 5-button waistcoat with welted pockets and notched bottom
    • Pleated trousers with turn-ups/cuffs
  • White cotton shirt with point collar and double/French cuffs
  • Mini grid-check silk tie
  • Dark oxford shoes
  • Pocket watch
  • Light-colored birdseye woolen tweed double-breasted overcoat with peak lapels, 6×3-button front, self-belt, and rounded-bottom patch pockets (with rectangular flaps)
  • Light-colored felt fedora with black ribbed grosgrain silk band
  • Light-colored scarf with dark stripes

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, just be more careful than John Dillinger was after you’re finished watching it.

Bond’s Cream Safari Jacket and Tie in The Man with the Golden Gun

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Roger Moore, flanked by co-stars Maud Adams and Britt Ekland, in his second film as James Bond, The Man with the Golden Gun (1974)

Roger Moore, flanked by co-stars Maud Adams and Britt Ekland, in his second film as James Bond, The Man with the Golden Gun (1974)

Vitals

Roger Moore as James Bond, British government agent

Macau, Spring 1974

Film: The Man with the Golden Gun
Release Date: December 20, 1974
Director: Guy Hamilton
Tailor: Cyril Castle
Wardrobe Supervisor: Elsa Fennell

Background

Following the release of Orlebar Brown’s 007-inspired collection earlier this year, the company’s take on Roger Moore’s green safari jacket from The Man with the Golden Gun renewed my interest in the actor’s sophomore adventure as James Bond which also happened to be the first 007 movie I had ever seen.

After Bond retrieves a gold bullet during his rendezvous with Saida the belly dancer, Q identifies the soft 23-karat gold dum-dum bullet plopped from Saida’s navel as a product of Portuguese gunmaker Lazar (Marne Maitland), currently living in Macau.

“An unexpected honor, Mr. Bond,” Lazar greets him. “Your reputation precedes you.” Well… so much for that whole “secret agent” thing.

What’d He Wear?

On the 00-7th of August, we explore the summer-appropriate sport jacket and tie that Roger Moore’s James Bond wore for his visit to Lazar in Macau, an outfit that has been previously analyzed in brilliant detail by The Suits of James Bond.

The Man with the Golden Gun is the first of two consecutive Bond movies where Moore’s 007 sports a safari-style jacket over a shirt and tie, though he always appropriately wears these garments in warm settings. This particular jacket is well-suited for Macau’s humid subtropical climate while his tan safari-inspired sports coat in The Spy Who Loved Me befits that scene’s Egyptian setting.

While undoubtedly consistent with the much-maligned safari-inspired men’s fashions of the 1970s, Moore’s cream lightweight silk jacket in Macau suggests a military bearing with its structured cut and style elements that it shares with some countries’ service uniform tunics. It’s a unique garment specific to its era, though Iconic Alternatives has done excellent work researching and exploring modern alternatives in this comprehensive article about Moore’s safari style.

While he's not on safari, Bond's safari-inspired sport jacket is nonetheless appropriate for the warm climate and the informal nature of his visit to Lazar.

While he’s not on safari, Bond’s safari-inspired sport jacket is nonetheless appropriate for the warm climate and the informal nature of his visit to Lazar.

Bond’s cream-colored jacket has lapels with an extended collar that droops down into where the notches would be, creating the effect of a narrow slit between the collar and the lower halves of the lapels. There are four mixed tan sew-through buttons down the front, and Moore fastens the bottom three while leaving the top button undone similar to the practice employed by RAF officers and others.

There are four inverted box-pleat pockets⁠—a sporty detail common to 1970s safari wear⁠—that all close through a single button on a pointed flap, with the two smaller pockets over the chest mirroring the two large pockets on the hips. The shoulders are appointed with military-like epaulettes (shoulder straps) that were also a common feature of safari shirts and jackets during the ’70s. The sleeves are finished with pointed straps that fasten to a single button on each cuff. All of the buttonholes are reinforced with a dark brown thread that echoes the broken contrast stitching along the jacket’s edges, including the lapels, pockets, cuff tabs, and epaulettes.

Bond takes aim at something Lazar values even more highly than his custom-built rifle.

Bond takes aim at something Lazar values even more highly than his custom-built rifle.

Made by Roger Moore’s usual shirtmaker, Frank Foster, Bond’s light cream poplin shirt nicely coordinates with the cream silk of his jacket while providing a softer contrast than a stark white shirt. The shirt has a spread collar, front placket, and the distinctive two-button “cocktail cuff” that continued the tradition of the character’s signature shirt style that began with Sean Connery’s first outing in Dr. No (1962).

Bond's distinctive cocktail cuff emerges from the sleeves of his jacket as he coolly interrogates Lazar.

Bond’s distinctive cocktail cuff emerges from the sleeves of his jacket as he coolly interrogates Lazar.

Moore complements the light earthy tones of the outfit’s color palette with a dark brown silk tie, knotted in a large four-in-hand that fills the tie space of his shirt’s spread collar.

THE MAN WITH THE GOLDEN GUN

Promotional photo of Maud Adams, Roger Moore, and Britt Ekland in The Man with the Golden Gun. As these three costumes never appear together on screen, it's evident that whoever directed the shoot wanted to convey the warmth of the film's subtropical setting.

Promotional photo of Maud Adams, Roger Moore, and Britt Ekland in The Man with the Golden Gun. As these three costumes never appear together on screen, it’s evident that whoever directed the shoot wanted to convey the warmth of the film’s subtropical setting.

Bond’s brown silk flat front trousers are likely worn with a belt, consistent with Bond’s other trousers in The Man with the Golden Gun, though his waistband remains covered by the squared corners of the buttoned sport jacket throughout the scene. The only retail details of the trousers apparent on screen and in the promotional images are the plain-hemmed bottoms with their then-fashionable slight flare and a full break that drapes over his footwear.

The footwear in question is a pair of dark brown leather apron-toe Salvatore Ferragamo loafers with a strap across the vamp decorated with a small squared gold buckle on the outside of each shoe. Moore wears these slip-on shoes with dark socks, possibly dark brown or black, though the former would be more thematically appropriate.

The Man with the Golden Gun was Roger Moore’s swan song for Cyril Castle-tailored clothing and the Rolex Submariner dive watch that had been Bond’s signature timepiece since it appeared affixed to Sean Connery’s left wrist via leather strap in Dr. No. It would be the last time any James Bond actor would wear a Rolex until another Submariner appeared on Timothy Dalton’s wrist in Licence to Kill (1989).

Roger Moore’s Submariner, ref. 5513, has a black rotating bezel and black dial and is worn on a stainless Oyster-style link bracelet. Unlike the Sub with its rotating buzz saw in Live and Let Die, this Rolex has no discernible gadgets or abilities aside from telling accurate time.

Bond collects evidence.

Bond collects evidence.

Forgive this humble blogger's wrinkles as I hope to channel Sir Roger's 007 in this unstructured Nautica sports coat, brown tie and trousers, stainless dive watch, and exotic leather loafers.

Forgive this humble blogger’s wrinkles as I hope to channel Sir Roger’s 007 in this unstructured Nautica sports coat, brown tie and trousers, stainless dive watch, and exotic leather loafers.

Roger Moore’s safari-influenced clothing may not have many fans in the universe of James Bond sartorial enthusiasts, but I always appreciated this creative approach to a sport jacket and tie for warm weather. When shopping at a Nautica outlet three years ago, I came across a beige lightweight cotton twill jacket that, while missing a few of the exact details of Moore’s garment such as the epaulettes, second chest pocket, and button-tab cuffs, allowed me to effectively channel this unique look.

Constructed from a lightly napped twill 97% cotton, 3% spandex cloth in a color that Nautica describes as “sandcove”, this Nautica “Utility Blazer” is more of an unstructured sports coat with slim notch lapels and only one breast pocket as opposed to the two on Moore’s garment. Furthermore, the sleeves are finished with two non-functioning buttons to match the three nut buttons down the front. Like the Moore jacket, it has two large inverted box-pleated pockets on the hips that each close with a single-buttoning flap. All in all, it is a very comfortable and distinctive layer to dress up a shirt and tie on a hot summer day.

To the right, please find this blogger humbly offering a photo of my own attempt at channeling Sir Roger, albeit with more of a budget than 007 ever had, with the sandcove cotton Nautica sport jacket over a cream Geoffrey Beene shirt, brown viscose-and-silk Michael Kors tie, brown twill flat front Lee trousers, and alligator tassel loafers by Florsheim. The Rolex Sub “tribute” watch is a stainless steel Invicta diver with black bezel and dial, though the sun’s glare through the window in this particular photo reflects a not-unwelcome brown in the watch’s dial.

(The outfit looked much better at the start of the workday, but it wasn’t until after 5 and a full day at the office that the opportunity arrived for this blogger’s patient girlfriend to snap the photo you see to your right.)

The Gun

Here you will find only craftsmanship and quality. Mass production—your Walther PPK, for instance—l leave to others.

Lazar alludes to James Bond’s signature PPK (again suggesting that 007 should really brush up on the “secret” part of being a secret agent), but the firearm that Bond uses to greatest effect during the scene is the customized bolt-action rifle that Lazar had built for a three-fingered hitman.

“A custom-built model for a client who recently lost two fingers,” Lazar proudly declares, further explaining that the trigger is housed in the butt, which has been balanced for the pressure of three fingers rather than Bond’s full complement. Thus, when five-fingered Jimmy Bond takes a shot with the rifle, the bullet hits the target an inch too low.

An expert marksman with traditional firearms, Bond finds himself frustrated by the compensations that Lazar made for the three-fingered assassin.

An expert marksman with traditional firearms, Bond finds himself frustrated by the compensations that Lazar made for the three-fingered assassin.

Interestingly, the concept of a trigger-less rifle did not originate with the Bond series. In the early 20th century, Winchester Repeating Arms modified its own Winchester Model 1902 for a unique .22-caliber youth rifle that replaced the traditional trigger with a thumb-activated sear behind the bolt. The purpose of this simplified system was to remove the amount of disruptions before firing the weapon’s single shot.

You can learn more about this distinctive Winchester “Thumb Trigger Rifle” in this comprehensive video from Forgotten Weapons. One of the approximately 76,000 produced between 1904 and 1923 was auctioned by Rock Island Auction Company in the spring of 2015.

How to Get the Look

Roger Moore as James Bond in The Man with the Golden Gun (1974)

Roger Moore as James Bond in The Man with the Golden Gun (1974)

Roger Moore’s dressed-up approach to ’70s safari fashions may not have passed the test of time as well as some of his other tailored attire, but this lightweight cream silk jacket is contextually appropriate for his mission to Macau while also reflecting a military pedigree apropos of Commander Bond’s service.

  • Cream lightweight silk single-breasted safari-inspired sport jacket with “dog-ear” lapels, epaulettes, four-button front, four inverted box-pleat patch pockets, single-button tab cuffs, and long single vent
  • Light cream cotton poplin shirt with large spread collar, front placket, and 2-button turnback “cocktail” cuffs
  • Dark brown silk tie
  • Brown silk flat front trousers with slightly flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Brown Italian leather Salvatore Ferragamo strap loafers with gold side-bit detail
  • Dark brown dress socks
  • Rolex Submariner 5513 stainless dive watch with black rotating bezel, black dial, and stainless Oyster-style link bracelet

Iconic Alternatives has done some marvelous research into finding modern equivalents to Roger Moore’s safari-influenced clothing as James Bond with a few options for this classic off-white jacket. Check it out!

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

I’m now aiming precisely at your groin… so speak or forever hold your piece.

Richard Burton’s Casual Big Sur Weekend in The Sandpiper

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Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor at Big Sur during production of The Sandpiper (1965)

Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor at Big Sur during production of The Sandpiper (1965)

Vitals

Richard Burton as Dr. Edward Hewitt, self-righteous Episcopal boarding school headmaster

Big Sur, California, Spring 1965

Film: The Sandpiper
Release Date: June 23, 1965
Director: Vincente Minnelli
Costume Designer: Irene Sharaff

Background

After fighting his own urges for the better part of the movie, uptight headmaster Dr. Edward Hewitt succumbs to romantic temptation. Edward tells his loving wife Claire (Eva Marie Saint) that he must depart for San Francisco to conduct a fundraising drive for his church but instead arrives at the beach home of Laura Reynolds (Elizabeth Taylor), the Bohemian mother of one of his students and the object of his obvious affections, and the two embark on a three-day romantic interlude against the stunning backdrop of Big Sur.

The Sandpiper's greatest artistic value is arguably shots like this that showcase the awesome glory of Big Sur. Kudos to cinematographer Milton R. Krasner.

The Sandpiper‘s greatest artistic value is arguably shots like this that showcase the awesome glory of Big Sur. Kudos to cinematographer Milton R. Krasner.

The two share an idyllic picnic with white wine out of paper cups while Laura sketches Edward—without his knowing and to her great amusement!⁠—and talk about how the “matrimony game” has been ribbed by “the whole male establishment,” which she agrees has been a conspiracy “ever since Adam stool-pigeoned on Eve!”

The next day finds a wistful Laura starting the “what are we?” speech all-too-familiar to new relationships, asking Edward, “does this happen to married people?”

Though The V.I.P.s (1963) and Cleopatra (1963) were their first movies together, The Sandpiper (1965) was the first of Burton and Taylor's collaborations as a married couple. Interestingly, they played a married couple in The V.I.P.s when they were "secretly" seeing each other... but they played secret lovers in The Sandpiper when they were actually married in real life. The adulterous irony was not lost on contemporary critics or audiences.

Though The V.I.P.s (1963) and Cleopatra (1963) were their first movies together, The Sandpiper (1965) was the first of Burton and Taylor’s collaborations as a married couple. Interestingly, they played a married couple in The V.I.P.s when they were “secretly” seeing each other… but they played secret lovers in The Sandpiper when they were actually married in real life. The adulterous irony was not lost on contemporary critics or audiences.

“The critics were savage to The Sandpiper when it was released, and for good reason,” wrote David Talbot in his 2017 retrospective review for the San Francisco Chronicle, though he notes that “it’s no surprise why The Sandpiper has acquired an ardent cult following over the years. Yes, it’s a laughably fictitious version of California bohemia in the mid-’60s. But it still channels Taylor’s feisty spirit and the heartfelt bond she felt for the outcasts of the world. She might have been a Hollywood goddess, but she knew that her almost absurd beauty made her into some kind of freak.”

As Liz herself shared in her autobiography, “We never thought it would be an artistic masterpiece… We were playing two people in love, so it was not particularly difficult. I must say, when we looked at each other, it was like our eyes had fingers and they grabbed hold, and perhaps something special did happen.”

What’d He Wear?

After spending the first half of the story buttoned up in blazers and tweeds, Edward lets loose, dressing for casual days and nights on the beach in a comfortable blue sweatshirt and near-matching pants.

Edward’s slate-blue cotton sweatshirt has a wide crew neck, evoking the wide “boat neck” of classic maritime jerseys, and set-in sleeves with long, finely ribbed cuffs.

The ribbed, triangle-shaped patch stitched under the front of the neck is a holdout from the days when this reinforced “V-Stitch” insert served the functional purpose of a sweat-catching sponge, as explained by Mister Freedom owner Christophe Loiron for Valet. “By the ’60s, it often became just a flat overlock stitch on the collar, just for decoration,” explained Loiron, though the elasticized V-insert also is suggested to control the way the neckline stretches as a wearer pulls the sweatshirt over his head. You can read more about the history of the classic crew-neck sweatshirt at GQ and Sunspel.

THE SANDPIPER

As an added layer against the cool, Northern California climate, Edward brings a beige windbreaker down to the beach. While this zip-up jacket takes some style cues from the classic Baracuta G9 popularized as a “Harrington jacket” around this time in tribute to Ryan O’Neal’s Peyton Place character, Burton’s windbreaker has only a single button on the rounded tab extending from the standing collar (similar to the navy Tom Ford jacket that Daniel Craig would wear in Quantum of Solace), and the waist is partially elasticized rather than ribbed-knit all around the hem like the G9.

Burton’s jacket has slanted hand pockets that are unencumbered with flaps or buttons. The back is pleated at the shoulders (without a G9 or G4-style storm flap), and the sleeves end in ribbed-knit cuffs.

Edward enjoys a cup of white wine as Laura draws on the beach.

Edward enjoys a cup of white wine as Laura draws on the beach.

Edward wears sky blue cotton flat front trousers, just a shade lighter than his sweatshirt. The trousers evoke a similar pair worn by Sean Connery during the Crab Key beach scenes in his first James Bond movie, Dr. No (1962). Like Richard Burton in The Sandpiper three years later, Connery’s 007 would wear a similarly colored shirt, though Mr. Bond opts for a tucked-in short-sleeve polo rather than the more casual crew-neck sweatshirt.

Burton wears his sweatshirt untucked with the hem often covering the top of the trousers, concealing whether they have front pockets (as they decidedly do not have side pockets), though there is a jetted pocket on the back left. The trousers are cut straight through the legs to the plain-hemmed bottoms.

Edward takes in Laura's humorous sketch of him.

Edward takes in Laura’s humorous sketch of him.

Edward’s navy slip-on beach shoes share characteristics with the classic espadrilles, though they have white rubber soles rather than the espadrilles’ traditional “jute” rope soles.

Promotional photo of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor on the beach at Big Sur during the production of The Sandpiper.

Promotional photo of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor on the beach at Big Sur during the production of The Sandpiper.

While you can’t go wrong with a pair of classic canvas rope-soled espadrilles like these authentic pairs by Soludos and VISCATA, you can go a Burton-inspired route with rubber-soled variants like the classic TOMS shoe or the more stylized Tommy Bahama “Jaali” slip-on shoe with mesh uppers. A compromise would be the ALDO “Vilfredo” with jute-like binding between the navy textile uppers and white rubber soles.

Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor at Big Sur during production of The Sandpiper (1965)

Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor at Big Sur during production of The Sandpiper (1965)

Embracing the freedom of his beach interlude, Edward leaves his gold watch behind. Some behind-the-scenes shots show Richard Burton in a pair of cool, mid-sixties sunglasses with thick black frames shaped straight across the top with thick arms. As these sunglasses are more consistent with the actor than the character, they did not make it on screen for the final cut.

How to Get the Look

For the first time in The Sandpiper, Richard Burton dresses for comfort as his button-up Dr. Edward Hewitt leaves behind the trappings of his married life as an Episcopal boarding school headmaster and allows himself the freedom (sartorial and otherwise…) that comes from a romantic beach interlude with the free-spirited Laura.

  • Beige zip-up windbreaker with rounded single-button standing collar tab, slanted hand pockets, back shoulder pleats, and ribbed-knit cuffs
  • Slate-blue cotton crew-neck sweatshirt with set-in sleeves
  • Sky-blue cotton flat front trousers with frogmouth front pockets, jetted back-right pocket, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Navy canvas slip-on beach shoes with white rubber soles
  • Black thick-framed sunglasses

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie or see a variety of movies that Liz and Dick made together with the Taylor and Burton Film Collection.


Sidney Poitier’s Navy Jacket in To Sir, with Love

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Sidney Poitier as Mark Thackeray in To Sir, with Love (1967)

Sidney Poitier as Mark Thackeray in To Sir, with Love (1967)

Vitals

Sidney Poitier as Mark Thackeray, novice high school teacher

London, June 1966

Film: To Sir, with Love
Release Date: June 14, 1967
Director: James Clavell
Wardrobe Supervisor: John Wilson Apperson

Background

As many students are returning back to school at the end of August, BAMF Style takes a look at Sidney Poitier’s scholarly style as the patient teacher in To Sir, with Love, based on E.R. Braithwaite’s autobiographical novel from 1959. The film was produced, directed, and adapted for the screen by James Clavell, the prolific writer whose works include “the Asian Saga” (including Shōgun) and the screenplay for The Great Escape.

Sidney Poitier stars as Mark Thackeray, the determined teacher who takes his first appointment (or “job,” as he is politely corrected) instructing a senior class of troubled—and often troubling—high school students at the North Quay Secondary School in London’s East End just a few weeks before the students were scheduled to graduate.

“I can’t guide you, but don’t take any nonsense from these little tykes,” encourages his friendly fellow teacher “Clinty” Clintridge (Patricia Routledge). “They’re good kids, Mark… most of them. If you don’t solve ’em, they’ll break you and damn quickly.” “That’s been tried… by experts,” Mark assures her. “They’re very expert,” Clinty half-jokingly responds.

Another colleague, the fellow newbie Gillian Blanchard (Suzy Kendall), asks Mark why he took up teaching in the first place, to which he laughs: “Oh, it’s good to have some kind of job!”

While he’s still circling classified ads for engineering positions, the former communications engineer with British Guiana tries to find some inspiration to teach within himself, despite naysayers like the cheeky and cynical Theo Weston (Geoffrey Bayldon), a longtime veteran of North Quay who had long given up on trying to get through to the kids.

Mark’s patience is further tested through a series of immature pranks such as a loosened desk leg and a sheet of ice dropped from a window above him, but the disciplined Mark remains patient… until the prank of a used sanitary pad burning in his classroom stove pushes him over the edge. After losing his temper (“the one thing I swore I would never, never do”), Mark resolves to treat the students as adults, ceremoniously throwing their books into the trash and eschewing the prescribed curriculum in favor of reasonable discussions “about life, survival, love, death, sex, marriage, rebellion…”

The class’s lessons from “Sir” range from practical advice and in-class discussion to museum field trips and even learning how to make salad, steadily gaining him the respect of even the most obstinate and uninspired of his students as he guides them into shaping themselves into mature adults with a chance to succeed.

What’d He Wear?

North Quay has no uniforms for its students or teachers, but Mark Thackeray dresses for each day in the class room in a navy sports coat, white OCBD shirt, striped repp tie, and gray flannel slacks that, while a timeless trad ensemble in its own right, could also be argued as the grown-up version of the classic school uniform.

"It's encouraging that you have a sense of humor. It seems you know so little and are so easily amused, I can look forward to a very happy time," Mark quickly observes of his class.

“It’s encouraging that you have a sense of humor. It seems you know so little and are so easily amused, I can look forward to a very happy time,” Mark quickly observes of his class.

Mark’s  single-breasted jacket appears to be made from navy blue softly napped doeskin wool, a popular and classic cloth for blazers, though the softness and sheen in some shots suggests cashmere. The short fit is contemporary to the mid-to-late 1960s, and there is a long single vent. There is a patch pocket on the left breast and two patch pockets on the lower quarters.

TO SIR WITH LOVE

Despite being styled in the traditional blazer cloth and color, it wouldn’t be completely accurate to refer to Mark’s jacket as a blazer as it lacks the contrasting buttons—often metal shank buttons to reflect its naval heritage—that most visually differentiate the blazer from its cousins in the odd jacket realm. Referring to Mark’s jacket as such may lead to additional confusion in the modern world of marketing shortcuts where every tailored jacket—whether part of a suit or just an odd jacket with lapels—is referred to as a “blazer”.

Instead of metal blazer buttons, Mark’s jacket has three dark blue plastic buttons on the front and on the cuffs, though a closer look at the sleeves suggests that more than one jacket may have been worn by Sidney Poitier on screen. The sleeves alternate between having one and two buttons on the cuff, though the buttons are always placed close to the edge of each sleeve. (Click here to see Mark’s jacket with one-button cuffs rather than the two-button cuff example below.)

Note the two-button cuffs of Mark's jacket. Both buttons are placed very close to the edges of the sleeve.

Note the two-button cuffs of Mark’s jacket. Both buttons are placed very close to the edges of the sleeve.

Each day, Mark wears the same tie, patterned with slim crimson red satin stripes crossing diagonally “uphill” against a navy ground with imperfect slubbing consistent with navy shantung silk. While the pattern shares similarities to the Kings Regiment Liverpool stripe, Mark’s tie is almost certainly unaffiliated with the regiment.

TO SIR WITH LOVE

Mark wears a plain white oxford cotton shirt with a button-down collar, plain front, and squared cuffs that close with a single button. By the late 1960s, it was still a typically American practice to wear a button-down shirt with a jacket and tie in a professional setting, indicative of Mark having “spent some years in the States.” That said, Mark only wears his OCBD shirt with his navy sport jacket, opting for a white French-cuff shirt with a classic point collar when he wears his gray worsted suit on screen.

Mark takes a much-needed break and absorbs some much-needed advice on his first day in the classroom.

Mark takes a much-needed break and absorbs some much-needed advice on his first day in the classroom.

The lightweight white fabric of Mark’s OCBD shirt reveals the outline of his short-sleeved undershirt, a white cotton T-shirt with a low-opening crew neck. The undershirt is never seen on screen, though he wears a white mesh short-sleeved T-shirt with a wide boat neck with his slacks (as well as light gray sneakers) when he has to fill in as P.T. teacher after an altercation between student “Pots” Potter (Christopher Chittell) and the bullying instructor Mr. Bell (Dervis Ward).

Mark’s dark gray flannel trousers are hardly ideal for physical education, but they’re otherwise classic and a perfect complement to his navy sports coat. The trousers appear to have a flat front but are, in fact, darted to comfortably curve over Poitier’s hips without requiring pleats, which were falling out of fashion by the late 1960s. They have slanted side pockets and jetted back pockets with a single button to close the back right pocket. The fit is straight through the legs to the plain-hemmed bottoms. The trousers have three-button “Daks top” side adjusters and an extended waistband tab with a hidden hook closure.

With their darted front, extended hidden hook waistband tab, and "Daks top" three-button side adjusters, Mark's trousers resemble the suit trousers that Anthony Sinclair tailored for Sean Connery to wear four years later in his final [official] adventure as James Bond, Diamonds are Forever.

With their darted front, extended hidden hook waistband tab, and “Daks top” three-button side adjusters, Mark’s trousers resemble the suit trousers that Anthony Sinclair tailored for Sean Connery to wear four years later in his final [official] adventure as James Bond, Diamonds are Forever.

Mark wears black calf derby shoes with dark navy socks.

TO SIR WITH LOVE

When the day appears to be threatening rain, Mark dons a khaki gabardine knee-length raincoat with a short Prussian collar. He wears the coat open, though it has four widely spaced buttons made from mixed taupe plastic. Each set-in sleeve has a semi-strap that closes with a single button over the cuff. The coat also has flapped hip pockets and two short side vents.

Mark looks up at his students after finding himself the target of yet another of many pranks.

Mark looks up at his students after finding himself the target of yet another of many pranks.

To Sir, at Home

After Mark’s long and difficult first day, we observe him at home that evening, attending to his clothing his characteristically patient care as he irons his white shirt, folds over the collar, and hangs it beside his gray trousers, preparing to dress in the same to do it all over again the following day.

TO SIR WITH LOVE

For these evenings filled of laundry, sleeplessness, and studying how to teach “the slow learner,” Mark dresses for classy comfort in a blue cotton bathrobe with white piping, tied over his light blue cotton navy-piped pajamas.

Mark in much-needed repose.

Mark in much-needed repose.

How to Get the Look

Sidney Poitier as Mark Thackeray in To Sir, with Love (1967)

Sidney Poitier as Mark Thackeray in To Sir, with Love (1967)

Sidney Poiter puts a mature twist on the classic school uniform aesthetic with his scholarly ensemble of a navy jacket, striped repp tie, and gray flannel trousers in To Sir, with Love.

  • Navy doeskin wool single-breasted 3-button jacket with slim notch lapels, patch breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 1- or 2-button cuffs, and long single vent
  • White oxford cotton shirt with button-down collar, plain front, and 1-button squared barrel cuffs
  • Navy shantung silk tie with crimson red “uphill” satin stripes
  • Dark gray flannel darted-front trousers with “Daks top” three-button side adjuster tabs, extended hidden-hook waistband, slanted side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black calf leather derby shoes
  • Dark navy socks
  • Khaki gabardine raincoat with short Prussian collar, four-button front, set-in sleeves with single-button semi-strap cuffs, straight flapped hip pockets, and short double vents

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Toughness is a quality of the mind, like bravery, honesty, and ambition.

The Barefoot Contessa: Bogie’s Olive Suit and Bow Tie

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Humphrey Bogart as Harry Dawes in an MGM studio portrait for The Barefoot Contessa (1954)

Humphrey Bogart as Harry Dawes in an MGM studio portrait for The Barefoot Contessa (1954)

Vitals

Humphrey Bogart as Harry Dawes, Hollywood director and screenwriter

Madrid, Spring 1951

Film: The Barefoot Contessa
Release Date: September 29, 1954
Director: Joseph L. Mankiewicz
Costume Designer: Rosi Gori (uncredited)

Background

August 28 is National Bow Tie Day, believe it or not, so today’s post commemorates one of the most badass bow tie wearers of classic Hollywood, Humphrey Bogart.

Like many other stylish and influential entertainers of his day, Bogie’s on-screen style reflected the actor’s personal style which—as he matured into middle age in the 1950s—evolved to increasingly incorporate bow ties with his lounge suits and sport jackets. Bogart’s fans grew increasingly used to seeing the actor sporting bow ties in movies like In a Lonely Place and Sabrina before Joseph L. Mankiewicz’s dazzling Technicolor drama showcased Bogie’s bow-tied style in full color opposite the ravishing Ava Gardner.

After a brief opening scene, we transition to “three years ago” as the Mankiewicz-like Harry Dawes (Bogart) is traveling with slick but spoiled Hollywood producer Kirk Edwards (Warren Stevens), sweaty PR flack Oscar Muldoon (Edmond O’Brien, in an Academy Award-winning performance), and blonde actress Myrna (Mari Aldon) “from Hollywood, U.S.A.” The quartet finds themselves at “a not very fashionable nightclub” in Madrid, where Harry lectures them all on the lessons learned from Faust’s deal with the devil.

“The fact that you don’t drink at all, Kirk, is the greatest argument for drunkenness I know,” states Harry, who’s celebrating being sober “five months next Tuesday.”

The true purpose of the night out, however, is to convince the glamorous dancer Maria Vargas (Gardner) to agree to meet with Edwards to star in his latest pet project. The washed-up Harry is tapped as the most viable candidate on the virtue of his reputation for having previously directed both Jean Harlow and Carole Lombard.

What’d He Wear?

The opening scene depicts a trench-coated Humphrey Bogart in the rain, a familiar sight for many audiences, before we flash back to Madrid where he sports an olive lightweight flannel suit for his introduction to Maria Vargas. It’s very likely that the suit, flattering and fashionable with its full but not baggy fit, was from Bogie’s own wardrobe.

The suit jacket has substantial notch lapels that roll to a two-button, single-breasted front that he keeps open throughout the sequence. The ventless jacket has wide shoulders, roped sleeveheads, and four-button cuffs at the end of each sleeve.

Harry makes the acquaintance of Maria Vargas.

Harry makes the acquaintance of Maria Vargas.

The double forward-pleated trousers rise appropriately high to Bogie’s natural waist, where they are held up with a black leather belt that closes through a squared steel single-prong buckle. The trousers have side pockets and are finished on the bottoms with turn-ups (cuffs).

Harry pulls the left side of his suit jacket back, showing off the belt and elegant trouser pleats.

Harry pulls the left side of his suit jacket back, showing off the belt and elegant trouser pleats.

Harry’s white poplin shirt has a spread collar, plain front, and squared double (French) cuffs that he fastens with a set of gold links.

The narrow and square-ended “batwing”-style bow tie appears to be one of Bogart’s own, worn in this famous 1953 portrait. Seen in color in The Barefoot Contessa, the bow tie is cream silk with a repeating pattern of dark rust-colored ornamental circles.

THE BAREFOOT CONTESSA

We get our best look at Harry’s shoes as he leans over to pick up the discarded shoes that give Maria Vargas her titular moniker. He wears a simple pair of black leather cap-toe oxfords with dark socks that may be a shade of green to match his suit and continue the leg line from his trousers.

Harry stumbles upon the discarded shoes that resulted in the eponymous contessa's moniker.

Harry stumbles upon the discarded shoes that resulted in the eponymous contessa’s moniker.

Bogart wears his signature gold ring, ornamented with two rubies flanking a center diamond, on the third finger of his right hand. The actor reportedly inherited the ring from his father after Belmont Bogart died in 1934 and proceeded to wear it off- and on-screen the following two decades in almost all of his movies, absent only from his last four movies as the ring made its final screen appearance in The Barefoot Contessa.

No one could smoke a cigarette on screen like Bogie.

No one could smoke a cigarette on screen like Bogie.

The small watch on Harry’s left wrist is yellow gold with a gold dial and a russet brown leather strap. Based on the size of the small round case, it does not appear to be the tonneau-shaped Longines Evidenza that has been identified as one of Bogie’s real-life timepieces that frequently made its way into his movies.

THE BAREFOOT CONTESSA

Harry layers for the evening chill with a dark copper brown wool knee-length overcoat. The single-breasted coat has notch lapels that roll to a three-button front, which he wears open throughout the scene. The coat has wide, padded shoulders, large flapped patch pockets, and a long single vent.

THE BAREFOOT CONTESSA

How to Get the Look

Humphrey Bogart as Harry Dawes in The Barefoot Contessa (1954)

Humphrey Bogart as Harry Dawes in The Barefoot Contessa (1954)

Humphrey Bogart brings personal flair to Harry Dawes’ wardrobe by accompanying this understated olive suit with a natty bow tie, a sartorial practice that had been established by the actor in real life as he approached his final years.

  • Olive green lightweight flannel suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button suit jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, ventless back
    • Double forward-pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • White poplin shirt with spread collar, plain front, and squared double/French cuffs
    • Gold cuff links
  • Cream “batwing”-style bow tie with small rust-colored circles
  • Black leather cap-toe oxfords
  • Dark green socks
  • Copper brown wool single-breasted 3-button overcoat with notch lapels, wide shoulders, large flapped patch pockets, and long single vent
  • Brown fedora with narrow brown band and feather
  • Gold ring with two ruby stones flanking a center diamond stone
  • Gold wedding band
  • Gold wristwatch with gold dial on russet brown leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

What makes a man want to write about people or direct people is because, usually, he has a sort of sixth sense about them…or thinks he has. Like a watch. Now, my five ordinary senses, what with alcohol and other forms of abuse, are nothing special. But I have a sixth sense that any witch in the world would give her left broomstick to have.

Robert Redford’s Turtleneck in The Way We Were

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Robert Redford and Barbra Streisand in The Way We Were (1973)

Robert Redford and Barbra Streisand in The Way We Were (1973)

Vitals

Robert Redford as Hubbell Gardiner, privileged college student turned Hollywood screenwriter

Upstate New York, June 1937 and
Malibu, California, September 1947

Film: The Way We Were
Release Date: October 19, 1973
Director: Sydney Pollack
Costume Design: Dorothy Jeakins & Moss Mabry

Background

As students are settling back into school after Labor Day, let’s make the acquaintance of Hubbell Gardiner, a privileged college student in 1930s America for whom “everything came too easily to him… but at least he knew it,” apropos his short story “The All-American Smile”. Hubbell’s scribbling earned the young man literary attention not only from publishers willing to pay for his work but also from Katie Morosky (Barbra Streisand), a radical classmate who puts the “active” in activist.

Arthur Laurents based his screenplay on his own experiences at Cornell, where he was introduced to political activism by a fiery young woman in the Young Communist League whose outspoken fervor and passion remained with him long after the two had lost touch. Adding his own Jewish heritage to the character, Laurents crafted the script with Streisand in mind, having worked with her in his 1962 musical I Can Get It For You Wholesale, and basing the character of Hubbell Gardiner on a number of men he had met in the entertainment industry as well as a college acquaintance known only as “Tony Blue Eyes”.

The movie’s famous opening song introduces Hubbell and Katie at “Wentworth College”, a fictional “Little Ivy”-type college portrayed on screen by the picturesque Union College in Schenectady, New York. While the politically motivated Katie busies herself organizing rallies and strikes to protest fascism around the world, the charming, popular Hubbell focuses his laidback attention on sports and girls, finding easy success in both arenas.

It isn’t until Katie hears “The All-American Smile” in her class with Hubbell that she recognizes that there may be greater depth to Hubbell than his persona of just an easygoing WASP whose “decadent and disgusting” friends tease her as she works at a campus diner. One evening shortly before their graduation, she’s returning from her second job—working the newspaper linotype—when she spies Hubbell enjoying a solitary beer, celebrating the recent sale of his short story. Katie tries to avoid him by crossing the street, but he spies her out walking and invites her to join him for “one sip…one sip of beer?” She’s not a drinker—yet—but still affects nonchalant annoyance as she crosses the street and prompts him with “Well?”

Kudos to the 36-year-old Robert Redford for channeling enough of his natural boyish charm to effectively play a college student. More than a decade later, he would be tasked with the increasingly challenging task of playing a teenager in the early scenes of The Natural.

Kudos to the 36-year-old Robert Redford for channeling enough of his natural boyish charm to effectively play a college student. More than a decade later, he would be tasked with the increasingly challenging task of playing a teenager in the early scenes of The Natural.

Hubbell: Why do you carry your books all the time?
KatieThat‘s what I crossed the street for?
Hubbell: No, I’m celebrating.
Katie: What are you celebrating?
Hubbell: I got you to cross the street.

Oh, that did it! After months of resisting the golden boy’s charisma and his “dirty co-ed humor,” Katie finds herself swiftly won over by Hubbell’s charms as the track star and fledgling writer listens to her sharing her experiences and opinions with more earnest curiosity than she would have expected. As their short but significant conversation comes to a close, he delicately ties her shoe and issues parting words of encouragement:

Go get ’em, Katie.


A decade later, Katie is likely more surprised than anyone to find herself married to Hubbell. The two had lost touch after an intimate, wordless dance at their commencement celebration until a chance encounter seven years later at New York City’s iconic El Morocco nightclub. A beer-drunk Hubbell, asleep at the bar in his Navy summer whites, staggered awake to find Katie Morosky standing before him with a Dubonnet in her hand and her hair “ironed”. After a sloppy night together, Katie’s persistence and Hubbell’s enthusiasm for her optimistic, idealized vision of him leads to an on-again, off-again relationship that briefly stabilizes when the two are married after World War II and spirit themselves to southern California. Per usual, Hubbell finds an easy path to success—this time as a Hollywood screenwriter adapting his own material—while Katie subdues her more radical urges, focusing on homemaking and dreaming of living the expatriate life with Hubbell in France.

What’d He Wear?

When not decked out in the classic World War II-era naval uniforms, Robert Redford’s Hubbell Gardiner strides through The Way We Were dressed in a stylish wardrobe that transcends the film’s “golden age” setting as well as its early ’70s production, from comfortable casual attire to the über-formal white tie and tails.

“Sort of miss the neck brace, it was like a powerful turtleneck. You looked like Robert Redford in The Way We Were,” Sharon Horgan’s character tells her husband played by Rob Delaney in a second season episode of Catastrophe, referencing Hubbell’s collegiate look.

Hubbell’s “powerful turtleneck” is first seen as he and Katie share a late night beer on the evening of June 3, 1937, the same day that Edward VIII defied expectations by marrying Wallis Simpson… perhaps foreshadowing Hubbell’s own defiant romantic gestures of bringing the outspoken Marxist Katie into the “sophisticated” world of his Beekman Place pals.

This scene where Hubbell and Katie toast "to commencement" was filmed outside the old Medberry Hotel in Ballston Spa, New York

This scene where Hubbell and Katie toast “to commencement” was filmed outside the old Medberry Hotel in Ballston Spa, New York

Hubbell wears an ivory turtleneck sweater in a soft knit material that suggests cashmere. Not too bulky but not skin-tight, the sweater flatteringly hangs on Redford’s frame and gently follows his movements whether he’s raising a mug of beer or collapsing onto beach sands.

The knitting pattern on the body of the sweater, which resembles the scales of a fish, appears to be a tight trinity stitch or bramble stitch, though I would defer to a knitting expert. The long turtleneck, cuffs, and waist hem hem are knitted in wide ribs.

"The All-American Smile"

“The All-American Smile”

Slung over the back of Hubbell’s chair appears to be a gray tweed sports coat that goes unworn throughout the seen but may be the same large-scaled herringbone 3/2-roll jacket that he would wear when working as a Hollywood screenwriter a decade later.

Hubbell wears this turtleneck untucked with the hem covering the top of his taupe brown pleated trousers, finished on the bottoms with turn-ups (cuffs).

THE WAY WE WERE

Hubbell wears a pair of burgundy penny loafers, a style of shoe that was increasingly popular after G.H. Bass & Co. first introduced “weejuns” to the American market in the mid-1930s, thus it’s realistic that they would have been sported by affluent students like Hubbell on campuses by the spring of 1937. (That said, the film the film isn’t above sartorial anachronism, as Patrick O’Neal’s super-’70s wardrobe as director George Bissinger in “1940s Hollywood” illustrates.)

College students soon embraced the popular slip-on shoe with its slotted strap across the vamp, often decorating it with a penny in the slot that led to the shoe’s “penny loafer” moniker. Hubbell thankfully foregoes the penny-in-the-slot tradition in the burgundy moc-toe weejuns that he wears with his cream-colored wide-ribbed socks.

The film makes frequent reference to the fact that everything comes "too easily" to Hubbell, reflected even in his choice of collegiate footwear, a pair of burgundy penny loafers that slip on and off while the hardworking Katie has to lace up her heeled derbies each day, though Hubbell subtly communicates that he's willing to share this burden with her by offering to tie one of her shoes for her.

The film makes frequent reference to the fact that everything comes “too easily” to Hubbell, reflected even in his choice of collegiate footwear, a pair of burgundy penny loafers that slip on and off while the hardworking Katie has to lace up her heeled derbies each day, though Hubbell subtly communicates that he’s willing to share this burden with her by offering to tie one of her shoes for her.

The turtleneck gets an on-screen reprise during a brief vignette set 10 years later as the “happy” couple, now living in Malibu, walks along the beach at dusk as they laugh over potential baby names, which include her father’s suggestions of Thomas Jefferson Gardiner, Solomon David Gardiner, and Eugene V. Debs Gardiner.

It’s one last moment of bliss for Hubbell and the now-pregnant Katie, both feeling nostalgic as they wear significant clothes from their past: he’s outfitted in the turtleneck from their first night bonding over beers and writing, and she’s sporting his Navy-issued blue chambray work shirt under a white collegiate cardigan emblazoned with a blue “W” for Wentworth College with matching stripes on the arm.

Both outfits are items from the past, but more accurately his past; Katie never served in the Navy, and her pride was in her school work rather than the school itself… not to mention that she is dwarfed by the larger clothes. In this happy vignette, they’re both living Hubbell’s concept of an ideal life, taking the relatively “easy” path to success. The once-outspoken individualist Katie has allowed her identity to be completely wrapped up in his (as she is completely wrapped in his clothing) compromising her ambitions, her political ideals, and—most importantly—her principles.

My vote was for Solomon David Gardiner, but Hubbell didn't seem to care for that.

My vote was for Solomon David Gardiner, but Hubbell didn’t seem to care for that.

Robert Redford and Barbra Streisand in The Way We Were (1973)

Robert Redford and Barbra Streisand in The Way We Were (1973)

It makes sense that Hubbell would dig out a comfy old sweater from his college days, still a normal practice for folks only a decade removed from their collegiate years who often don the same baggy sweatshirt that warmed its wearer while studying for finals or nursing hangovers. Hubbell’s sweater is showing some age, fraying at the cuffs, but this broken-in quality makes it all the more comfortable for an intimate sunset stroll through the surf.

Southern California has always led the country’s casual style revolutions, so it’s not surprising to see Hubbell embracing blue jeans for informal occasions like this barefoot walk on the beach, though his denim looks more like a product of the early ’70s, tight through the legs and thighs and slightly flared on the bottoms, which Hubbell cuffs to avoid sledging them through the sand.

During his Navy tenure, Hubbell wore a sterling silver curb-chain ID bracelet on his left wrist that he continued to wear in his civilian life following the war.

Hubbell’s other piece of jewelry is the silver ring that Robert Redford wore in almost all of his movies after he received it as gift from a Hopi tribe in 1966. While it’s not outside the realm of possibility that Hubbell Gardiner would wear a ring, it would perhaps be more consistent with his character if it were a class ring, a large shining symbol of his glory days gleaming from his right hand.

THE WAY WE WERE

Dorothy Jeakins and Moss Mabry shared costume design credit for The Way We Were, though IMDB also reports the uncredited contributions of Richard Bruno, Marie Osborn, Shirlee Strahm, and Bernie Pollack, who often collaborated with his director brother Sydney as well as Robert Redford on their projects over the following decades from Three Days of the Condor to Havana.

How to Get the Look

Robert Redford as Hubbell Gardiner in The Way We Were (1973)

Robert Redford as Hubbell Gardiner in The Way We Were (1973)

It’s no surprise that looking stylish comes so easily to Hubbell Gardiner, as most other things in his life do. Simple, casual, and comfortable, his elegant ivory turtleneck keeps our aspiring writer looking dashing from campus bar to California beach.

  • Ivory bramble-stitched cashmere turtleneck sweater with set-in sleeves and ribbed-knit turtleneck, cuffs, and waist hem
  • Taupe brown pleated trousers with turn-ups/cuffs
  • Burgundy calf leather penny loafers
  • Cream ribbed socks
  • Silver tribal ring
  • Sterling silver curb-chain ID bracelet

Putting on an ivory knit turtleneck won’t transform you into Robert Redford, but it’s a worthy piece to have in your wardrobe! Hubbell-style sweaters are available at The Irish Store, Aran Sweater Market, and DRUMOHR (one cable-knit, and one square-patterned).

For a more dressed-down day on the beach, lose the shoes and swaps and swap out the slacks for an old pair of jeans ready to take on the salt and sand.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

The trouble with some people is they work too hard.

The Yakuza: Robert Mitchum’s Corduroy Jacket and Tan Turtleneck

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Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer in The Yakuza (1974)

Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer in The Yakuza (1974)

Vitals

Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer, tough former detective

Tokyo and Kyoto, Japan, Spring 1974

Film: The Yakuza
Release Date: December 28, 1974
Director: Sydney Pollack
Costume Designer: Dorothy Jeakins

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Fall is here in the Northern Hemisphere, and it’s my favorite season for the cooler weather, the changing leaves, and the increased sweaters, corduroys, and tweeds that make their way from the back of the closet back into regular rotation. These autumnal staples get some particularly badass exposure in Sydney Pollack’s 1974 Japanese-set neo-noir The Yakuza as a 57-year-old Robert Mitchum joins Ken Takakura as they fight their way through Honshu from Kyoto to Tokyo in a variety of natty turtlenecks layered under tweed jackets and corduroy suits.

Conceptualized by brothers Paul and Leonard Schrader, the plot brings grizzled detective Harry Kilmer (Mitchum) out of retirement to help rescue the daughter of his old friend George Tanner (Brian Keith) from her Yakuza kidnappers at a monastery. Joined by his protege, Dusty (Richard Jordan), the honorable Ken Tanaka (Takakura), Harry’s mission draws Yakuza blood and leads to this storied criminal group putting out a contract on the trio of rescuers.

What’d He Wear?

Even before we get into the corduroy, it has to be said that The Yakuza is a fantastic turtleneck movie, with Harry, Ken, and Dusty all sporting rollnecks of various colors, cloths, and weights. It’s Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer who makes the most of pairing it with corduroy as well, first dressing down an olive needlecord suit with a gray ribbed-knit rollneck and then leading the violent mission during the film’s climax with a tan parka over his black turtleneck.

In the midst of these adventures, we see Harry leading the expedition to rescue Tanner’s daughter, sporting a classic casual ’70s ensemble of a corduroy waist-length jacket zipped-up over a turtleneck, both in shades of brown.

Ken Takakura and Robert Mitchum on the set of The Yakuza. Mitchum's sunglasses are likely the actor's own as they don't appear on screen.

Ken Takakura and Robert Mitchum on the set of The Yakuza. Mitchum’s sunglasses are likely the actor’s own as they don’t appear on screen.

Harry’s jacket is a thin-waled brown corduroy with a broad shirt-style collar that betrays its 1970s provenance. With about two inches of clearance from the waist hem, the jacket zips up the front with a silver-toned pull tab on a silver zipper. The set-in sleeves are undecorated at the cuffs, and there are two hand pockets with vertical openings. A curved seam extends out from each armpit and vertically down the front of each chest panel.

THE YAKUZA

Most modern-made men’s corduroy zip-up blousons that I find online have a much wider-waled cord and/or the addition of chest pocket flaps that take us away from Robert Mitchum’s screen-worn jacket. Retailers like Banana Republic, Gap, H&M, J. Crew, Old Navy, and Target are more focused on corduroy trucker jackets. This lighter brown Topman option available from Nordstrom seems to be more inspired by a classic flight jacket (and not, as the description curiously suggests, a Harrington jacket), leaving the Volcom “domjohn” jacket from ASOS as a surprising candidate for shoppers seeking to emulate Mitchum. If you have a higher budget, Sunspel offers the “Men’s Wide Wale Corduroy Harrington Jacket” in dark camel (and navy) for $495, though the name is misleading as the style has far more in common with Mitchum’s jacket than a classic Harrington. The best item on the market—right down to the color—that I was able to find, as of September 2019, was obviously this ’70s-dated vintage piece by Cal Craft.

Less unique but hardly less memorable is Mitchum’s tan cashmere wool turtleneck jumper with its heavily ribbed neck, cuffs, and hem and slimmer ribbing through the body of the sweater.

One sign of a comfortable turtleneck? People do a double-take when they worry it's about to swallow your head.

One sign of a comfortable turtleneck? People do a double-take when they worry it’s about to swallow your head.

Production photo of Ken Takakura and Robert Mitchum in The Yakuza.

Production photo of Ken Takakura and Robert Mitchum in The Yakuza.

Mitchum wears the turtleneck over a cream-colored undershirt with long sleeves that perform the double-duty of preventing the wool from making his arms itch and protecting the cashmere from absorbing sweat and body oils.

Early fall isn’t the easiest time to go turtleneck-shopping as most retailers are transitioning from summer with lighter-weight pullover sweaters and cardigans, though there’s an alpaca-blend turtleneck available on Amazon for only $38.99 (as of September 2019) with a similar ribbing detail and made from a similar dijon-tinted tan material as Mitchum’s sweater. For the price, it could be worth the uneven reviews to tide you over until more reputable retailers begin stocking their shelves with roll-necks for the cooler months ahead.

Apropos the military-inspired nature of their infiltration mission, Harry wears a pair of olive drab flat front trousers that look like they could be army surplus pants, worn with a dark brown leather belt with a large, semi-rounded single-prong buckle in polished gold-toned metal.

THE YAKUZA

Harry’s olive trousers have frogmouth front pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms that only slightly flare over his brown leather raised-heel ankle boots.

Harry inspects Ollie's arsenal.

Harry inspects Ollie’s arsenal.

The watch strapped to Harry’s left wrist is a stainless Rolex DateJust that was likely the personal property of Robert Mitchum, as he could be seen wearing the same wristwatch with its silver dial and steel “Jubilee”-style bracelet in some of his other movies from the decade, including The Big Sleep (1978). He occasionally wears peanut brown calf leather gloves.

Note the sleeve of Mitchum's undershirt poking out from his left sleeve, the same wrist where he wears his Rolex.

Note the sleeve of Mitchum’s undershirt poking out from his left sleeve, the same wrist where he wears his Rolex.

A brief vignette of Harry traveling by train depicts him wearing the same jacket but with the trendier and more flamboyant underpinnings of a dark chocolate brown knit polo open at the neck with a brown, bronze, white, and red patterned silk scarf knotted over his throat.

THE YAKUZA

The Gun

In Tokyo, Harry Kilmer arms himself from the arsenal of his pal Oliver “Ollie” Wheat (Herb Edelman), chambering a blued steel .45 with the serial number crudely removed, then noting “I’ll need a .38 for Dusty.”

During this era, the .45 ACP blank round was unreliable so many productions—The Wild Bunch, The Getaway, and Three Days of the Condor to name a few—replaced .45-caliber 1911 pistols with cosmetically similar Star Model B pistols that fired the more universal and blank-reliable 9×19 mm Parabellum round. The Yakuza appears to be an exception as Mitchum seems to be fielding and firing a genuine M1911A1 throughout the movie.

Harry pulls back the slide of his .45. Note the scratched-off serial number just below the ejection port.

Harry pulls back the slide of his .45. Note the scratched-off serial number just below the ejection port.

The venerated M1911 pistol series dates back to shortly after the start of the 20th century when Colt beat out DWM and Savage with its winning entry for a new American service pistol chambered in .45 ACP. The single-action, recoil-operated semi-automatic pistol designed by John Browning was adopted by the U.S. Army in 1911, followed by the Navy and the Marine Corps over the next two years. Following its performance in World War I, several modifications—including a shorter trigger, arched mainspring housing, and longer grip safety spur—were introduced during the 1920s for what would be designated the M1911A1, which would serve all branches of the U.S. military for the next 60 years.

How to Get the Look

Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer in The Yakuza (1974)

Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer in The Yakuza (1974)

Robert Mitchum’s tough protagonist in The Yakuza incorporates the decade’s popular earth tone palette into his wardrobe of corduroy clothing and turtleneck sweaters with this comfortable casual outfit.

  • Brown corduroy waist-length zip-up jacket with wide collar, vertical-opening hand pockets, and set-in sleeves with plain cuffs
  • Tan cashmere wool turtleneck sweater with wide ribbed-knit rollneck, cuffs, and hem
  • Cream-colored long-sleeved undershirt
  • Olive drab flat front trousers with belt loops, frogmouth front pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark brown leather belt with polished gold-toned rounded single-prong buckle
  • Brown leather ankle boots with raised heels
  • Brown leather gloves
  • Rolex DateJust steel-cased wristwatch with silver dial and steel “Jubilee” bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Ken: “Doesn’t your side bother you?”
Harry: “Nah, it needed a little trimming anyway.”

Cheers: Sam Malone’s Light Blue Pouch-Pocket Rugby Shirt

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Ted Danson as Sam Malone on Cheers (Episode 1.22: "Showdown, Part 2")

Ted Danson as Sam Malone on Cheers (Episode 1.22: “Showdown, Part 2”)

Vitals

Ted Danson as Sam Malone, bartender and former baseball star

Boston, Spring 1983

Series: Cheers
Episodes:
– “Showdown, Part 2” (Episode 1.22, dir. James Burrows, aired 3/31/1983)
– “Power Play” (Episode 2.01, dir. James Burrows, aired 9/29/1983)
Created by: Glen Charles, Les Charles, and James Burrows
Costume Designer: Robert L. Tanella

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

One of the most pivotal moments in the early seasons of Cheers was Sam and Diane setting “will they or won’t they?” by getting together in the final seconds of the first season finale… then picking up abruptly in the second season premiere with their attempts at coupling that prove the fledgling relationship may already be doomed.

“Showdown, Part 2” had begun with a bitter Sam returning from a date with a blonde, no doubt an entry from his infamous black book, leaving the young woman at Cheers’ threshold before retreating into his office to brood over Diane (Shelley Long) dating his never-seen and never-again-mentioned “perfect” brother Derek. Despite it being her day off, Diane also comes into Cheers, finally confessing her own thinly veiled attraction to Sam as she seeks life advice from Coach (Nicholas Colasanto), despite the good-natured bartender’s own admission that she’s “asking a guy who’s taken a lot of fastballs in the head.”

Encouraged by Coach and Cheers’ perennial barfly Norm (George Wendt), Diane refuses to let Sam hide his feelings behind his “tough jock façade,” and the episode’s final ten minutes are a brilliantly honest, human, and often hilarious argument between Sam and Diane that leads to their first kiss.

Diane: You disgust me. I hate you.
Sam: Are you as turned on as I am?
Diane: More!
Sam: Bet me.

CHEERS

While that concludes the first season, it’s only the beginning of a whole new chapter for the series as the “bred and educated to walk with kings” Diane and self-described “babehound” Sam have to learn—quickly—how to adapt to the other. She gasps at his Wilt Chamberlain-like claim of bedding at least 400 women (soon redacted to “four honeys”), while he has to learn to share space with Diane’s army of stuffed animals—including, but hardly limited to, Mr. Jammers, Freddie Frogbottom, Gary Gorilla, and Mr. Buzzer—without throwing them out the window of her apartment… which, when seen in “Power Play” (Episode 2.01), becomes the first time that Cheers was set anywhere beside the bar’s interior, which had been the exclusive setting for all on-screen action during the show’s first season.

“Power Play”, which aired 26 years ago this weekend, sets the foundation for the show’s groundbreaking portrayal of a relationship that may not be meant to be. The episode was so named as each of the newly paired couple seeks advice from the patrons at Cheers to gain the upper hand in their relationship. This culminates with Carla (Rhea Perlman) suggesting that Sam show power, resulting in the boldly ill-advised action of Sam breaking down Diane’s door… which, in turn, prompts her to pretend to call the police on him. It’s going to be a long road for these two crazy kids.

What’d He Wear?

Through the early seasons of Cheers, Sam Malone has a few go-to outfit templates. At his most dressed up, whether it’s for a date or a photo shoot as one of Boston’s most eligible bachelors, Sam sports a corduroy jacket with an OCBD and tie paired with boat shoes and either jeans or slacks. Most days behind the bar, however, he dresses for comfort with just enough style sense to quickly make a date, if needed, pulling from his selection of plaid button-up shirts, loud sweaters (for Beantown’s chillier days), and comfortable-looking rugby shirts, almost always accompanied by the prep style staples of surcingle belt and boat shoes.

For its emblematic representation of Sam’s casual style as well as its role in one of the early series’ most pivotal sequences, let’s explore the light blue rugby shirt and coordinating corduroys that Ted Danson wears from “Showdown, Part 2” into “Power Play”. Rugby shirts appropriately originated in the sport of the same name, where players require durable shirts that can withstand the contact nature of the sport while also allowing for easy movement and breathability during the game. You can learn more about the history of rugby shirts—as well as what differentiates them from cosmetically similar polo shirts—in Albert Muzquiz’s informative Heddels article.

Sam’s rugby shirt in these episodes is a cool shade of sky blue cotton with the contrasting white collar and placket that is characteristic of many rugby shirts. The placket is detailed with three sew-through hard rubber buttons that would fasten through a covered fly, though Danson typically wears his rugby shirts completely unbuttoned at the neck. The rubber buttons were implemented as a safer and stronger alternative to plastic should a rugby player’s shirt be pulled at the collar during gameplay.

The athletic origins of the rugby shirt make it a perfect fit for proud ex-jock Sam Malone.

The athletic origins of the rugby shirt make it a perfect fit for proud ex-jock Sam Malone.

Sam often wears white cotton V-neck undershirts. Even though he usually wears the short plackets of his rugby shirts completely unbuttoned, the undershirt is hardly discernible as it barely contrasts with the white collar and placket that follows the same V-shaped neckline.

Perhaps the most unique detail of Sam’s shirt is the kangaroo-inspired pouch pocket, a large double-entry pocket across his abdomen with a curved opening on each side that resembles the pocket most commonly found on hooded sweatshirts. In my opinion, this is a great shirt for a bartender: comfortable for long hours behind the bar, durable and washable for frequent spills, and detailed with an easily accessed pocket for stuffing tips… or, in Sam Malone’s case, phone numbers of potential dates.

While this sky blue shirt had also made a prior appearance in another notable early episode, “The Boys in the Bar” (Episode 1.16), Sam wears several of these pouch-pocket rugby shirts across the show’s premiere season, in different colors like green and navy (both branded Nike), bright red and bold blue (with no branding, like this shirt), or a salmon-colored shirt with a white embroidered anchor on the breast that shows up for several episodes in a row.

Sam Malone's "kangaroo-pocket" shirts from across the first season: a green Nike shirt in "Any Friend of Diane's" (Episode 1.06), a navy Nike shirt in "Endless Slumper" (Episode 1.10), a salmon anchor-embroidered shirt in "Father Knows Last" (Episode 1.15) among other episodes, a red shirt in "Pick a Con...Any Con" (Episode 1.19), and a blue shirt in "No Contest" (Episode 1.18).

Sam Malone’s “kangaroo-pocket” shirts from across the first season: a green Nike shirt in “Any Friend of Diane’s” (Episode 1.06), a navy Nike shirt in “Endless Slumper” (Episode 1.10), a salmon anchor-embroidered shirt in “Father Knows Last” (Episode 1.15) among other episodes, a red shirt in “Pick a Con…Any Con” (Episode 1.19), and a blue shirt in “No Contest” (Episode 1.18).

Rugby shirts offer its wearer an undeniable vintage vibe, illustrated by J. Crew naming its line of rugby shirts for 2019 the “Always 1984” series. The addition of the kangaroo-inspired “pouch pocket” makes it additionally hard to find shirts like Sam’s, though End Clothing occasionally has an Aime Leon Dore navy rugby shirt with a pouch pocket among its stock, and Bonobos has adapted the double-entry patch pocket on a comfortable-looking pique French terry rugby shirt.

Before his retro Red Sox jacket became his signature outerwear, Sam Malone cycled through a series of casual jackets in the show’s early seasons that included at least two reversible nylon jackets that appear to have taken some stylistic inspiration from the classic MA-1 bomber jacket. With this outfit, he echoes the colors of his shirt as his jacket has an ivory-colored nylon shell with cornflower blue accents and piping. The ribbed-knit collar, cuffs, and hem are all this secondary shade of blue, detailed with a double ivory stripe.

"Diane and I decided we're gonna start messin' around," Sam clarifies for the patrons at Cheers.

“Diane and I decided we’re gonna start messin’ around,” Sam clarifies for the patrons at Cheers.

The jacket can be reversed to reveal a cornflower blue shell with ivory accents, as seen for the jacket’s first appearance when consoling Carla in “The Tortelli Tort” (Episode 1.03), though the ivory shell is likely meant to be the true “outside” of the jacket as it has the double sets of pockets while the blue side only has single hand pockets, contrasted with ivory jetting.

The double sets of pockets seen on the ivory side are hand pockets that run parallel to each other, with blue-piped button-down flaps on the front pockets followed by blue-jetted pockets just behind them.

CHEERS

Diane: How could you take your pants off when we’re having a fight?
Sam: It’s not gonna last all night, I don’t wanna be overdressed when it ends!

The pants in question are blue corduroy trousers, a slightly dressier alternative to jeans that can often be just as comfortable, if not moreso. These flat front trousers have belt loops, slightly slanted side pockets, and two back pockets with a single-button flap closing over the back left pocket.

Diane is a welcome sight for Sam... though her announcement that she called the police after he broke down the door is considerably less welcome.

Diane is a welcome sight for Sam… though her announcement that she called the police after he broke down the door is considerably less welcome.

Sam stays true to his prep staples of surcingle belts and boat shoes, in this instance wearing a dark navy surcingle belt with light brown leather fittings and a gold-toned square single-prong buckle.

The term “surcingle” has equestrian origins, referring to the leather or synthetic-made strap that fastens around a horse’s girth. This association likely led to its nomenclature describing these prep-favored belts with web bodies and leather ends.

CHEERS

Whether he’s wearing a rugby shirt and jeans or a sport jacket and tie, Sam Malone almost never deviates from boat shoes, his preferred footwear of choice. Developed a half-century earlier by Paul A. Sperry, who introduced his iconic Sperry Top-Sider in 1935 for the purpose of maintaining traction on a slippery deck, boat shoes caught on outside the maritime world as a coastal casual favorite and, by the 1980s, they were a casual footwear of choice for men and women.

With this outfit, Sam’s boat shoes are the archetypal color combination of “sahara” brown nubuck uppers and white rubber outsoles, with two brass eyelets over the vamp for the light brown rawhide laces as well as two sets of laces along each side. The siped soles, 360-degree lacing, and moc-toe construction are all signatures of the classic Sperry Top-Sider, though the popularity of this style by the early 1980s doesn’t limit the possibilities of who made Sam’s shoes.

Boat shoes in hand, Sam tries to figure out what's going on.

Boat shoes in hand, Sam tries to figure out what’s going on.

Boat shoes can be worn either with or without socks, though Sam usually sports his with hose. In this case, it’s a pair of black argyle socks with green and red diamonds and a white overcheck.

For all of his bed-hopping, it makes sense that we would get a few glimpses of Sam’s undergarments. Under his corduroys, Sam wears a pair of navy blue nylon running shorts with white piping and a very short inseam, which reappear late in the eighth season when Rebecca Howe (Kirstie Alley) leaves him tied up to an elevator rail with his pants around his ankles.

The choice to outfit Sam in a pair of athletic shorts, albeit very short ones, was likely made to satisfy network sensors who weren’t ready for a sitcom’s main character to be parading onscreen in traditional underpants. However, it’s also appropriate that the ex-jock Sam, who treats sex like a sport, would rock underwear that looks like he’s ready to run the hundred-meter dash every time he takes his pants off.

"Come on, I'm losin' the mood here, Diane."

“Come on, I’m losin’ the mood here, Diane.”

One of the more subtly changing pieces in Sam Malone’s wardrobe is his wristwatch, as the character wears an evolving series of timepieces over the course of the show. By the end of the first season, he’s sporting a steel military-style watch with a black dial, worn on a khaki vinyl strap with a single-prong buckle and a wide leather keeper. The watch is very clearly seen in “Let Me Count the Ways” (Episode 1.14), though it’s prominently and humorously featured in “Showdown, Part 2” (Episode 1.22) when Sam challenges Diane to stop talking for ten seconds and offers to time her.

CHEERS

Sam: To save your life, I bet you couldn’t shut up for 30 seconds. Make it ten.
Diane: Oh, I most certainly could!
Sam: (checks his watch) Alright, let’s see, huh?
Diane: You’re going to time me?
Sam: Yeah, that’s right, I’m gonna time you. Ten seconds, starting… now.
Diane: This is the most moronic-
Sam: You wanna try again?

While Sam and Diane’s wardrobe has remained the same when the scene resumes in “Power Play” (Episode 2.01), there are subtle differences in each cast member’s hair styles as well as Sam’s watch, having evidently swapped the strap out for a brown leather band in mid-kiss.

For a decently priced field watch like Sam’s, the Timex Expedition Scout 40 on a tan nylon band is a steal on Amazon for $36.50, though the area of military-inspired watches is a segment where Hamilton has distinguished itself as a particular expert with models like the Khaki Field, including the brown-dialed H70605993 on canvas band, the black-dialed H69439933 on canvas band, the H70595593 on nubuck strap, and the H69429901 on a NATO strap, with prices ranging from $320 up to $660, as of September 2019. More intermediately priced options include the gunmetal 5.11 field watch on a brown NATO strap ($169.99) and the Citizen Eco-Drive on a textured brown leather strap ($145.61).

What to Imbibe

After partying too hard during his Red Sox days, Sam Malone came to terms with his alcoholism and spends the bulk of the series a practicing teetolaler… making his occupation as a bartender all the more interesting. Yet the episode features one of the most entertaining non sequiturs as Carla Tortelli (Rhea Perlman) goes to take a drink from two older patrons (Lois de Banzie and Helen Page Camp) who gradually increase their orders from the genteel tea to sherry to “two boilermakers: Wild Turkey and Bud.”

However, if you’re looking to drink like Norm, Cliff, and the rest of the Cheers regulars, we get a hint at what fuels the bar taps when Carla requests “a couple of ‘Gansetts” in “Truce or Consequences” (Episode 1.08) and “two ‘Gansetts” in “Lil’ Sister Don’t Cha” (Episode 2.02). Both times, Sam pours out two mugs straight from the tap, suggesting that ordering a draft beer at Cheers yields the New England favorite Narragansett. This theory gets some extra credibility given Narragansett’s extensive history as the Red Sox’s sponsor up through the late ’60s, just before hotshot relief pitcher Mayday Malone would have stepped up to the mound.

How to Get the Look

Ted Danson as Sam Malone on Cheers (Episode 1.22: "Showdown, Part 2")

Ted Danson as Sam Malone on Cheers (Episode 1.22: “Showdown, Part 2”)

As a relatively laid-back guy who still cared about his appearance, Sam Malone capitalized on the most comfortable aspects of ’80s casual attire, dressing down in a preppy wardrobe of rugby shirts, corduroy trousers, surcingle belts, boat shoes, and argyle socks as exemplified by his outfit that carried him from the finale of Cheers‘ first season and the start of its second.

  • Sky blue cotton long-sleeve rugby shirt with white collar, white 3-button placket, and “kangaroo”-style pouch pocket
  • Ivory (with cornflower blue accents) nylon zip-up blouson jacket with striped ribbed-knit collar, cuffs, and hem, slanted flapped side pockets, and hand pockets
  • Dark blue corduroy cotton flat front trousers with belt loops, slanted side pockets, jetted back right pocket, back left pocket (with single-button flap), and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark navy surcingle belt with light brown leather ends
  • Camel brown nubuck two-eyelet boat shoes with white outsoles
  • Black argyle socks
  • Navy blue, white-piped nylon short-inseam jogging shorts, worn as underwear
  • Steel military watch with black dial on khaki vinyl strap with single-prong buckle and leather keeper

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the entire series, currently streaming on Amazon Prime, Hulu, and Netflix while also available on DVD.

The Quote

How do you think it feels to be attracted to someone that makes you sick?!

Walter Matthau’s Navy Striped Suit in Charade

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Walter Matthau as Carson Dyle in Charade (1963)

Walter Matthau as Carson Dyle in Charade (1963)

Vitals

Walter Matthau as Carson Dyle, posing as CIA administrator Hamilton Bartholomew

Paris, April 1963

Film: Charade
Release Date: December 5, 1963
Director: Stanley Donen

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Today commemorates the 99th birthday of the great Walter Matthau, the New York-born actor and comedian. After playing heavies in movies like the Elvis vehicle King Creole (1958) and his self-directed Gangster Story (1960), Matthau got a chance to exercise his versatility and comedic chops with a delightfully duplicitous role in Stanley Donen’s romantic comedy thriller Charade (1963).

American housewife Regina “Reggie” Lampert (Audrey Hepburn) is in Paris “mourning” the death of her detested late husband when three mysterious men interrupt the proceedings and she is handed a letter, inviting her to the office of H. Bartholomew at the U.S. Embassy. There, we first encounter Matthau in the guise of Hamilton Bartholomew, a charmingly modest bureaucrat given to amused non-sequiturs and grumpy anecdotal spells as well as being easily distracted by the inanities of office life from a spot on his tie to the lack of variety in his lunch options:

I’ve got something here… I’ve got liverwurst, liverwurst, chicken, and liverwurst.

Even his position with the CIA is downplayed; no, he isn’t in the romantic world of spies and agents, he insists, merely an administrator. “A desk jockey,” he clarifies, “trying to run a bureau of overworked men with under-allocated funds.” Of course, fans of the film know there’s far more to “Mr. Bartholomew” than meets the eye…

What’d He Wear?

When posing as CIA administrator Hamilton Bartholomew, Carson Dyle dresses for the office in a three-piece sack suit made from dark navy narrowly striped flannel.

After his white handkerchief gets its due time as the primary scrubber of his tie, Dyle gives it an ignominious sniff before relegating back to pocket detail where it peeks out just over the top of his jacket’s welted breast pocket, keeping watch on the proceedings should his next round of liverwurst and red wine again endanger his tie’s aesthetic value.

Note the bare thread sticking out of Dyle's left jacket sleeve, indicating that it's missing the lower of the two vestigal buttons.

Note the bare thread sticking out of Dyle’s left jacket sleeve, indicating that it’s missing the lower of the two vestigal buttons.

The single-breasted jacket has three buttons widely spaced upon the front to balance Walter Matthau’s 6’2″ height, with the notch lapels rolling over the top button. The jacket has straight flapped hip pockets in addition to the breast pocket, a single vent, and two-button cuffs. The sleeve buttons are non-functional, as illustrated in the above screenshot where loose threads flaring out from where the second button would be indicates that this sleeve button has been removed, possibly an in-character detail Dyle is employing as Bartholomew to give the impression of an uninteresting office drone who doesn’t care enough to have his clothing repaired.

CHARADE

The suit has a matching six-button waistcoat, worn fully fastened down to the notched bottom. Little is seen of the trousers, but Dyle’s gray flannel suit has flat front trousers with plain-hemmed bottoms, so we can safely assume that these trousers are styled consistently with those. As Dyle wears the jacket and waistcoat throughout the scene, we also can’t tell if the trousers are worn with a belt, suspenders, or are fitted with either side-adjusters or a tailored waistband… though “Hamilton Bartholomew” seems like the type who would wear a belt for practical reasons even if it isn’t the aesthetically recommended choice for wearing under a waistcoat.

CHARADE

Dyle’s cotton shirt has a subtle icy cast that suggests pale blue rather than stark white and neatly harmonizes with his dark blue suiting. The collar is fastened under the tie knot with a gold barbell-style bar, though this contrasts with the silver-toned metal of his bar-style cuff links.

For a "desk jockey" like Hamilton Bartholomew, a bit of wine with an otherwise uninspired lunch provides an almost mischievous sense of pleasure that would be the high point of his day.

For a “desk jockey” like Hamilton Bartholomew, a bit of wine with an otherwise uninspired lunch provides an almost mischievous sense of pleasure that would be the high point of his day.

“It’s a stubborn little devil,” Dyle remarks on his dark navy tie when greeting Reggie in his office. “Dry cleaning-wise, things are all fouled up.” As he continues going on about his laundry woes, Reggie interrupts to make sure he’s aware of why he called her there. He apologizes for focusing on his neckwear in the widow’s presence: “I’m very sorry… last time I sent out a tie, only the spot came back.”

Dyle wears his dark navy tie in a tight four-in-hand knot. The collar bar pushes the tie forward, further exhibiting the stain that seems to be giving him so much grief during his initial meeting with Reggie Lampert.

Dyle wears his dark navy tie in a tight four-in-hand knot. The collar bar pushes the tie forward, further exhibiting the stain that seems to be giving him so much grief during his initial meeting with Reggie Lampert.

Unseen in the movie, Dyle almost certainly wears the same black three-eyelet cap-toe derbies that he later wears with his gray flannel suit. Anything else would be far too creative for such a conventional dresser.

How to Get the Look

Walter Matthau as Carson Dyle in Charade (1963)

Walter Matthau as Carson Dyle in Charade (1963)

Walter Matthau’s classic American sack suit and conventional accessories of collar bar and white pocket square strengthen Carson Dyle’s guise as Hamilton Bartholomew, an uninteresting bureaucrat who may work for an intelligence organization but presents himself as a non-threatening “desk jockey” rather than a dangerous, opportunistic spy.

  • Navy narrowly striped flannel sack suit:
    • Single-breasted 3/2-roll jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and single vent
    • Single-breasted 6-button waistcoat with notched bottom
    • Flat front trousers with plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Ice blue cotton shirt with pinned collar, front placket, and double/French cuffs
    • Gold barbell-style collar bar
    • Silver bar-style cuff links
  • Dark navy tie
  • Black leather three-eyelet cap-toe derby shoes

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, and be sure to find one of the high-quality versions like the recent Criterion Collection release. The film’s decades under public domain meant an abundance of lower-quality versions opportunistically released on home video to take advantage of the film’s high profile and cast recognition.

Mad Men, 1969 Style – Don Draper’s Brown Suit

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Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men (Episode 7.05: "The Runaways")

Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men (Episode 7.05: “The Runaways”)

Vitals

Jon Hamm as Don Draper, displaced ad man seeking to salvage his professional and personal lives

New York City, Spring 1969

Series: Mad Men
Episodes:
– “Time Zones” (Episode 7.01), dir. Scott Hornbacher, aired 4/13/2014
– “A Day’s Work” (Episode 7.02), dir. Michael Uppendahl, aired 4/20/2014
– “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03), dir. Christopher Manley, aired 4/27/2014
– “The Runaways” (Episode 7.05), dir. Christopher Manley, aired 5/11/2014
Creator: Matthew Weiner
Costume Designer: Janie Bryant

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

On #MadMenMonday, we turn again to Don Draper’s style for the office with a chocolate brown suit that clothed our ad man through many episodes of the show’s penultimate season, set in the early months of 1969 as he flounders in virtual unemployment after his unpredictable behavior made the one-time advertising hotshot a liability for Sterling Cooper & Partners.

Two months after his failed pitch to Hershey executives in the sixth season finale, Don is flying across the episode’s titular time zones from Los Angeles back to New York on a TWA flight that lands him next to the recently widowed Lee (Neve Campbell!), who falls asleep on his shoulder mid-flight and offers to “make [him] feel better.” Don turns down Lee’s offer in favor of returning home to coverage of Richard Nixon’s inauguration and providing pitches to Fred Rumsen (Joel Murray), who’s been reduced to freelancing after his own unpredictable behavior—drunkenly pissing himself at work—had led to his own dismissal nearly seven years earlier.

“Field Trip” (Episode 7.03) finds Don humbly returning to SC&P in spring 1969 after nearly six months out of the office… interestingly, the same duration that Roger Sterling had suggested for Freddy’s own forced leave in the second season. Despite the resentment and the tough stipulations he must accept as the terms of his re-employment, Don accepts with just one word before cutting to the end credits, scored by Jimi Hendrix’s “If 6 Was 9”:

"Okay."

“Okay.”

“Field Trip” may have been a technical turning point for Don Draper’s career, but “The Runaways” (Episode 7.05) proves what makes the character so compelling. Having gotten his mojo back after “The Monolith” (Episode 7.04) and Freddy’s concise advise to “do the work, Don,” the erstwhile creative director surprises Jim Cutler (Harry Hamlin) and Lou Avery (Allan Havey) during their secret Commander cigarettes pitch meeting at the Algonquin Hotel to try to win over Philip Morris. Cutler and Avery are quietly fuming, all but assuring Don that his recently regained tenure at the agency will be short-lived, but Don is unfazed, coolly sending the two execs off in a cab as he lights his Old Gold and ushers a taxi for himself to the opening notes of Waylon Jennings’ “Only Daddy That’ll Walk the Line”.

Few could analyze the use of this music cue better than The A.V. Club‘s stalwart reviewer, Emily VanDerWerff, who noted in her contemporary recap:

Okay, let’s work backwards. Waylon Jennings. “You Got The Only Daddy That’ll Walk The Line.” Don trying to take power from Cutler and Lou. Stephanie as a daughter figure Don never sees. Sally as the daughter he actually has whose nose is broken (except not really) but he never finds out about it. Henry as the surrogate father. Henry as the surrogate Richard Nixon. Richard Nixon.

Richard Nixon! Waylon Jennings is Richard Nixon! The rise of the Republican right largely piggybacked off the desire to see moral order and certainty arise, the desire to have “daddy” come back in and make everything right again. But that’s not how it works! You can’t just have Don Draper walk in and change the fact that everything is falling apart and the apocalypse is coming through his mere presence. Nothing can ever go back to the way it was, because that’s not how life works.

The only ad man that'll walk the line.

The only ad man that’ll walk the line.

VanDerWerff’s summary of the episode is particularly interesting, capturing the show’s prominent themes as Mad Men entered its final stretch:

We want to see Don stride into that room and convince Phillip Morris that he’s the guy who can get them what they want. We want to see him put Cutler and Lou in their places. We want to see him whistle for a taxi and have the car come right to him. More than anything, I think, we want him to get the old band together, to team up with Peggy and Pete and Joan and Roger and Bert and kick some ass, take back the company that’s supposed to be theirs. But it’s not really theirs anymore, just as the America that was unquestionably Don Draper’s in the pilot has crumbled out from under his feet, both through acts he’s undertaken himself and acts that have taken place around him. The world around Don Draper has become a different place, but he’s stayed the same. It’s not the computer that drives you mad; it’s everything the computer represents. You will be replaced. Maybe not today. Maybe not even a year from now. But you will be. And you can’t stop it. Maybe that’s the ultimate tragedy of Mad Men: The more you long for stasis, the more the universe starts readying a new version.

What’d He Wear?

Although brown is often associated with menswear trends of the late 1960s and early 1970s, Don Draper didn’t wait to incorporate brown business suits into his office attire until 1969. As early as the first season set in 1960, he was sporting a brown striped suit for important client pitches, and an autumnal brown suit made several appearances across the second season. Outdated “no brown in town” maxim from London aside, brown suits have long been accepted and welcome for business since at least the late 1930s. Thirty years later, Don seems to favor this chocolate brown suit when he’s motivated to “do the work,” per Freddy Rumsen’s maxim… or at least appear to be doing it.

When we met Don Draper in the first episode, he was “the man in the gray flannel suit,” literally clad in a businesslike gray worsted as he dominated the halls and conference rooms of Sterling Cooper, projecting the perfect image of the slick businessman. Nearly a decade later, his carefully built self-image has been all but demolished, and he’s returned to show SC&P that he intends to “do the work” rather than coasting on his reputation. The professional-looking gray suits remained in his closet as he struts into the Time & Life Building in a well-tailored chocolate brown worsted suit that reflects his new, grounded approach to work.

Fetching cab after cab outside the Algonquin at the close of "The Runaways" (Episode 7.05).

Fetching cab after cab outside the Algonquin at the close of “The Runaways” (Episode 7.05).

The single-breasted suit jacket has notch lapels of moderate width that roll over the top button for a clean 3/2-roll front. In the welted breast pocket, Don wears one of his neatly folded white linen pocket squares. The jacket also has straight flapped hip pockets, two-button cuffs, and a single vent.

Don gets a golden reception from the junior members of SC&P's creative team in "Field Trip" (Episode 7.03).

Don gets a golden reception from the junior members of SC&P’s creative team in “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03).

Don’s flat front trousers follow the standard template for his suits with side pockets, two back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms with a short, clean break over his shoes. Through the trouser belt loops, he wears a narrow black leather belt with a gold-toned box-style buckle, though this etched rectangular buckle is more elegant than the dulled silver box-style buckles of his belts in earlier seasons.

Don gets down to business in his shirt sleeves, whether it's presenting himself to Jim Cutler in "Field Trip" (Episode 7.03) or battling with a fussy sliding door in "Time Zones" (Episode 7.01).

Don gets down to business in his shirt sleeves, whether it’s presenting himself to Jim Cutler in “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03) or battling with a fussy sliding door in “Time Zones” (Episode 7.01).

Don is still a year away from incorporating more varied shirts into his office wardrobe, sporting white or gently off-white cotton dress shirts with semi-spread collars, front plackets, and breast pockets for many decks of Old Gold cigarettes. (Old Gold had replaced Lucky Strike as Don’s brand of choice after the tobacco brand dropped his agency during the show’s fourth season.)

Don takes a drag while waiting for his meeting with the SC&P partners in "Field Trip" (Episode 7.03).

Don takes a drag while waiting for his meeting with the SC&P partners in “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03).

All of Don’s shirts for the office are finished with double (French) cuffs, which he closes with gold cuff links when wearing this chocolate brown suit. The most prominently featured set of cuff links with his suit are the squared gold links with their large black onyx center squares in “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03).

Four Striped Ties

Don exclusively wears striped ties with this brown suit, all consistently patterned with stripes of at least two colors against a solid ground, crossing diagonally in the right-down-to-left “downhill” direction. By 1969, neatly patterned repp and regimental stripes were increasingly more popular than the minimalist ties Don sported earlier in the decade, setting the tone for what would be the dominant neckwear fashions of the ’70s.

When the suit makes its first appearance in “Time Zones” (Episode 7.01) for his flight back to the Big Apple, Don’s tie is block-striped in a warm brown and dark navy, with each double set of stripes separated by a narrow tan-and-gold double stripe. Don may have some U.S. Army service to his name (as well as to Dick Whitman’s name), but this particular tie shares visual similarities with the regimental stripe of the 2nd (City of London) Battalion, London Regiment (Royal Fusiliers), which consists of block stripes in ruby and dark navy separated by a thin triple stripe set in gold, white, and gold.

Tie One On:

  • Best Match! Ben Silver “2nd City of London Regiment” tie in ruby and dark navy with thin triple gold uphill stripe sets (Ben Silver, $128)
  • Ben Silver “Mogador Woven Stripe Tie” in claret brown with amber and navy uphill stripe sets (Ben Silver, $145)
  • Canali “Large Diagonal Stripe Silk Tie” in brown with ivory-on-blue uphill stripes (Neiman Marcus, $295)
  • Ermenegildo Zegna “Four-Color Stripe Silk Tie” uphill-striped in brown, blue, ivory, and navy (Neiman Marcus, $195)
  • Robert Talbott “Beltonians” regimental striped tie in brown, tan, and dark navy (O’Connell’s, $90)
  • WANDM tie in navy, brown, beige, and gray uphill block stripes (Amazon, $11.98)
"Time Zones" (Episode 7.01): Grounded regimental stripes for his flight east with Lee and a subsequent morning of work with Fred Rumsen.

“Time Zones” (Episode 7.01): Grounded regimental stripes for his flight east with Lee and a subsequent morning of work with Fred Rumsen.

“A Day’s Work” (Episode 7.02) finds Don loitering in his bachelor pad, having spent his long day doing nothing. He dresses professionally for the sole purpose of a visit from his former secretary Dawn (Teyonah Parris), who is still loyally providing him with office intel, before Dawn swiftly goes on her way and Don plops himself back down in front of the tube.

It’s the eve of Valentine’s Day, but—as reviewer Sonia Saraiya so succinctly stated in her joint review for The A.V. Club—”Don is lonely.” His maroon striped tie adds a dash of romantic red to the outfit, patterned with sets of thin taupe-and-cream stripes spaced about an inch apart against the maroon ground.

Tie One On:

  • Brooks Brothers “Wide Stripe Tie” in wine red woven silk with white and slate downhill stripes (Brooks Brothers, $89.50)
  • Canali “Men’s Alt Stripe Silk Satin Tie” in dark red with thin taupe and beige uphill stripes (Neiman Marcus, $160)
  • Poszetka “Silk Raspberry Red Regimental Tie” in dark red with gold and light blue uphill stripe sets (Poszetka, 31€)
  • Retreez microfiber polyester tie in burgundy with white-and-red uphill stripes (Amazon, $10.99)
  • The Tie Bar “Short Cut Stripe” silk/wool tie in burgundy with rust, gray, and white downhill stripes (The Tie Bar, $25)
  • Ties.com “Bann Burgundy Tie” in burgundy silk with alternating red/white and red/tan downhill stripe sets (Ties.com, $35)
  • WANDM tie in burgundy with double white uphill stripes (Amazon, $11.98)
"A Day's Work" (Episode 7.02): A burgundy regimental striped tie is worn for the sole purpose of greeting Dawn for a few minutes in his front hallway... the 1969 equivalent of putting on the top half of a suit for a video conference call.

“A Day’s Work” (Episode 7.02): A burgundy regimental striped tie is worn for the sole purpose of greeting Dawn for a few minutes in his front hallway… the 1969 equivalent of putting on the top half of a suit for a video conference call.

For the most part, Don’s striped ties with this suit are neatly striped in a repeating series like the classic regimental, college, and club ties. However, he dresses for his return to SC&P in “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03) in a more abstract striped tie, patterned in a non-balanced series of mint green and orange gradient stripes against a black ground.

Tie One On:

  • Kai silk tie with green and orange multi-stripes on black ground (Amazon, $14.99)
  • Marshall Field & Company vintage 1960s polyester tie with mixed orange, brown, and black downhill stripes (Rusty Zipper, $16)
  • Secdtie microfiber jacquard woven tie with downhill gradient stripes in green, slate, and orange (Amazon, $11.99)
"Field Trip" (Episode 7.03): A gradient-striped tie that doesn't follow the rules like his regimental stripes runs counter to the stipulations Don must agree to in order to get a position back at SC&P at the episode's end.

“Field Trip” (Episode 7.03): A gradient-striped tie that doesn’t follow the rules runs counter to the stipulations Don must agree to follow in order to get a position back at SC&P at the episode’s end.

At the end of “The Runaways” (Episode 7.05), Don returns to New York from California, simultaneously energized and demoralized by his chance chat with Harry Crane (Rich Sommer) and subsequent (unrelated) ménage à trois with his wife Megan (Jessica Paré) and her friend Amy (Jenny Wade), ready to reclaim his role in the agency by crashing Cutler and Avery’s covert meeting with Philip Morris representatives to discuss the Commander cigarettes account.

For this final appearance of the chocolate brown suit, Don returns to the tried-and-true reliability of a regimental tie with thin sets of yellow and dark navy stripes against a taupe brown ground.

Tie One On:

  • Antica Seteria Comasca “Mogador – Cambridge” tie in brown melange silk/cotton with blue-and-cream uphill stripe sets (Antica Seteria Comasca, $41.99)
  • Drake’s handmade silk/cotton tie in brown with thin cream-and-green uphill stripe sets (Drake’s, £145)
  • Best Match! Eagle satin multi-stripe tie in taupe with blue, white, and navy downhill stripe sets (Belk, $29.99)
  • Edwards Garment “Narrow Stripe Tie” in gold polyester with thin navy-and-pale blue downhill stripe sets (OpenTip.com, $15.92)
  • Franco Bassi “Melange Stripe Tie” in brown silk with navy and beige uphill stripe sets (Franco Bassi, 95€
  • J. Press “Classic Stripe Tie” in brown silk with light blue, white, and navy downhill stripe sets (J. Press, $79)
  • KITON “Napoli” handmade beige linen tie with blue-and-cream downhill stripe sets (Sartoriale, $97)
  • Wembley vintage 1960s light brown downhill-striped tie in brown, beige, and blue (Rusty Zipper, $10.80)
"The Runaways" (Episode 7.05): A light brown regimental striped tie as subtle and understated as Don's meeting-crashing power move.

“The Runaways” (Episode 7.05): A light brown regimental striped tie as subtle and understated as Don’s meeting-crashing power move.

Completing the Look

There seems to be an enduring menswear debate that questions the most appropriate footwear for brown suits. I think the most important considerations are the suit’s color and context. For example, with a lighter brown or khaki suit worn either for work or play, I like to wear medium brown leather monks or brogues. With a warmer brown tweed suit, I like darker brown derbies or boots.

In the case of Don Draper’s rich brown suit for these seventh season episodes of Mad Men, his black leather derbies are a fine accompaniment for his workday. Where brown shoes may look too much like they’re trying to match the rest of the suit, black shoes have a decided contrast with the dark suiting and also allow for a visual balance with Jon Hamm’s dark hair (top), Don’s black belt (middle), and the shoes themselves (bottom). Black derby shoes also reinforce the professional context for which Don is wearing the suit as opposed to the more playful potential of brown or burgundy shoes.

Worn with black dress socks, Don’s black calf leather derby shoes appear to have a split-toe front and five lace eyelets. The maker of these specific shoes is unconfirmed though auction listings have confirmed both Florsheim and Peal and Co. (by Brooks Brothers) as Don’s shoemakers at various points across the series run.

Don contemplates his hard-fought return to SC&P in "Field Trip" (Episode 7.03).

Don contemplates his hard-fought return to SC&P in “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03).

The professional world of 1969 was much different than ten years earlier as hats had been increasingly fallen out of fashion—encouraged by the youthful John F. Kennedy foregoing them during his administration in the early years of the 1960s, setting a presidential precedent that would rapidly be adopted by the rest of the country over the rest of the decade.

In addition to following the decorum of not wearing a hat indoors, it’s fitting that Don returns to SC&P literally hat in hand in “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03), and the hat is never seen atop his head until he’s firmly entrenched back in the workplace. In “The Runaways” (Episode 7.05), he’s wearing this gray felt short-brimmed trilby as he’s lording over Jim Cutler, crouched in the back seat of a taxi that Don summoned for him after crashing the Commander cigarettes meeting. The hat has a pinched crown and narrow black ribbed grosgrain silk band with a feather in the left side.

"You think this is gonna save you, don't you?" Cutler barks. Look at that face, Cutler. He's already saved.

“You think this is gonna save you, don’t you?” Cutler barks. Look at that face, Cutler. He’s already saved.

To combat the spring chill as well as the chilly reception he encounters at SC&P, Don wears his usual raglan-sleeve balmacaan raincoat, though it’s a newer one than the coat from earlier seasons that had a slimmer collar and a degree of shimmer. This khaki gabardine coat has a wide bal-type collar, slanted hand pockets with wide welts, and a long single vent. The front has a covered fly for the five khaki sew-through plastic buttons.

"Here I am," Don greets Roger's secretary Caroline (Beth Hall) upon his return in "Field Trip" (Episode 7.03) He would later echo the same words and open-armed gesture, albeit with considerable more defiance, when running into Jim Cutler in the same episode.

“Here I am,” Don greets Roger’s secretary Caroline (Beth Hall) upon his return in “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03) He would later echo the same words and open-armed gesture, albeit with considerable more defiance, when running into Jim Cutler in the same episode.

After the first four seasons found him cycling through two Jaeger-LeCoultres and a Rolex Explorer, Don Draper first strapped on his Omega Semaster De Ville at the top of the fifth season when he was at the top of his game on the eve of his 40th birthday, living the good life with his stylish wife and a partnership at one of the most ambitious agencies in the business.

Nearly three years later, all of that has changed for Don, but he’s still wearing the same Omega and must be reminded of that degree of success when counting down the minutes to the start of his first workday back at SC&P in “Field Trip” (Episode 7.03). This is the best look we get at the luxury watch, strapped to his left wrist on a black textured leather band with its gleaming yet subtle stainless steel case that allows the black dial—with its elegantly minimalist silver hour markers (two for 12:00,  6:00, and 9:00) and date window at 3:00—to take center stage.

It's nine o'clock sharp, and Don's still at home! Not off to a great start, Mr. Draper. (In a nod to the show's attention to detail, the date window on Don's watch indicates that it's the 31st of the month as does the calendar in Peggy's office, suggesting that the in-universe date of Don's return to work was likely Monday, March 31, 1969.)

It’s nine o’clock sharp, and Don’s still at home! Not off to a great start, Mr. Draper. (In a nod to the show’s attention to detail, the date window on Don’s watch indicates that it’s the 31st of the month as does the calendar in Peggy’s office, suggesting that the in-universe date of Don’s return to work was likely Monday, March 31, 1969.)

Don’s Omega watch was one of four screen-worn timepieces that was included in a Christie’s auction from December 2015. The listing for the Omega, which eventually sold for $11,875, described it as “Signed Omega, Automatic, Seamaster, De Ville, Ref. 166.020, Movement No. 23’943’081, Circa 1960.” Ellen Freund, Mad Men‘s property master, worked with vintage watch specialist Derek Dier to select each character’s signature watch.

How to Get the Look

Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men (Episode 7.05: "The Runaways")

Jon Hamm as Don Draper on Mad Men (Episode 7.05: “The Runaways”)

Mad Men may have established Don Draper as the archetypal man in the gray flannel suit, but he’s a master of many palettes, specifically a grounded but rich chocolate brown suit when he needs to “do the work” and regain his agency’s trust as the series built up to its finale.

  • Chocolate brown worsted wool suit:
    • Single-breasted 3/2-roll jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and single vent
    • Flat front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White cotton dress shirt with semi-spread collar, front placket, breast pocket, and double/French cuffs
    • Ornate gold cuff links
  • Earth-toned regimental tie with “downhill” stripe direction
  • Black leather belt with etched gold rectangular box-style buckle
  • Black calf leather 5-eyelet derby shoes
  • Black cotton lisle dress socks
  • Omega Seamaster DeVille wristwatch with stainless 34mm case, textured black crocodile strap, and black dial with date indicator
  • Gray felt short-brimmed trilby with black ribbed grosgrain silk band and decorative feather
  • Khaki gabardine cotton bal-type raincoat with Prussian collar, raglan sleeves, covered 5-button fly, slanted welt hand pockets, and single vent

Note: All prices included in the post above are current as of October 2019, with prices and product availability subject to change.

Check out Iconic Alternatives’ latest post, a collaboration with Instagram’s @dondraperstyle, that breaks down some of the most essential pieces worn by the enigmatic ad man.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the entire series, currently streaming on Netflix and available on DVD/Blu-Ray.

Enthusiasts of Don Draper’s style can also peruse GQ‘s comprehensive attempt to track all of his on-screen attire, which tallies up to 518 different suits, casual ensembles, tuxedoes, and pajama sets here: Everything Don Draper Has Ever Worn on Mad Men, though it should be noted that some of the outfits appear to be presented out of order, particularly toward the final seasons.

The Quote

Why don’t you fellas catch me up?


Samuel L. Jackson as Nick Fury in Captain Marvel

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Samuel L. Jackson as Nick Fury in Captain Marvel (2019)

Samuel L. Jackson as Nick Fury in Captain Marvel (2019)
Photo credit: Chuck Zlotnick/Marvel Studios

Vitals

Samuel L. Jackson as Nick Fury, “full-bird colonel turned spy turned S.H.I.E.L.D. agent”

Rosamond, California, to Louisiana, June 1995

Film: Captain Marvel
Release Date: February 27, 2019
Director: Anna Boden & Ryan Fleck
Costume Designer: Sanja Milkovic Hays

Background

Carol Danvers: Nicholas Joseph Fury… you have three names?
Nick Fury: Everybody calls me Fury. Not Nicholas. Not Joseph. Not Nick. Just Fury.
Carol Danvers: What does your mom call you?
Nick Fury: Fury.
Carol Danvers: What do you call her?
Nick Fury: Fury.
Carol Danvers: What about your kids?
Nick Fury: If I have them? They’ll call me Fury.

The 21st film released by Marvel Studios for the Marvel Cinematic Universe spends more time with Nick Fury than previous entries, giving us an ostensible origin story for the black-clad badass who’s been at the core of the MCU since his first appearance in the post-credits scene of Iron Man. As Captain Marvel is set in 1995, decades before the primary action of the MCU, Samuel L. Jackson was digitally de-aged to portray the character, then seen as a much lower-level agent in the S.H.I.E.L.D. bureaucracy and—perhaps most surprising—with both of his eyes intact.

Fury is called to a scene of suburban destruction in Los Angeles after “Vers” (Brie Larson) crash-lands on planet C-53… known to some as Earth. It’s June 1995, providing the opportunity to load the film with ’90s nostalgia from Bon Jovi and Blockbuster to No Doubt and Nerf guns.

After discovering that there was some credence to what “Blockbuster girl” had told him about an infiltration of shape-shifting Skrull, Fury follows Carol Danvers and her stolen motorcycle out into the desert town of Rosamond, California, about 20 miles outside of L.A., where she’s chasing down her own distorted memories at Pancho’s Bar. To ensure that Fury’s not a Skrull, Vers puts him through the motions, asking him to recall his history from his birth in Huntsville, Alabama (on July 4, 1950, according to his S.H.I.E.L.D. ID), through his military and spy career that consisted primarily of service in cities starting with the letter “B”, up to the then-present day in June 1995, having spent six years since the end of the Cold War “trying to figure out where our future enemies are coming from.”

Following their initially uneasy alliance Fury and Danvers develop a trusting bond as they make their airborne escape from the Project Pegasus facility, searching for more answers from Danvers’ ex-USAF pal Maria Rambeau (Lashana Lynch) who now lives with her daughter in rural Louisiana… “due east, hang a right at Memphis,” as Fury navigates. Along for the ride is Goose, the stray cat—or, uh, flerken—that Fury befriended inside the Project Pegasus facility, and the eventual culprit behind Fury’s famous ocular misfortune.

"Last time I trusted someone, I lost an eye," Fury explains in Captain America: The Winter Soldier. Captain Marvel reveals that Goose was evidently the last being that Fury trusted... and indeed loses his eye as a result!

“Last time I trusted someone, I lost an eye,” Fury explains in Captain America: The Winter Soldier. Captain Marvel reveals that Goose was evidently the last being that Fury trusted… and indeed loses his eye as a result!

What’d He Wear?

Now working off the grid for his solo mission to follow Vers, Nick Fury takes an off-duty approach to dressing, still wearing a tie but hardly looking as businesslike as he did in his previous charcoal suit, white shirt, and monochromatic striped tie. Vers has also changed into street clothes, grabbing a well-worn motorcycle jacket, Nine Inch Nails T-shirt (consistent with her previously seen taste in civilian clothes), distressed jeans, and a plaid flannel shirt around her waist from a mannequin before heading out into the desert. “I see you’ve changed it up a bit… grunge is a good look for you!” Fury assures her, later offering her a baseball cap with the S.H.I.E.L.D. logo to ease their infiltration of the Project Pegasus facility.

Carol Danvers: (sarcastic) Does announcing your identity on clothing help with the covert part of your job?
Nick Fury: Said the space soldier who was wearing a rubber suit. Lose the flannel.

Interested in Vers' NIN T-shirt? Nine Inch Nails' former art director Rob Sheridan confirmed that the shirt is actually a bootleg as the width of the rectangle differs from the "NIN" typography, but Marvel has since worked with NIN to commission a newly designed T-shirt to commemorate the collaboration between the band and the entertainment company.

Interested in Vers’ NIN T-shirt? Nine Inch Nails’ former art director Rob Sheridan confirmed that the shirt is actually a bootleg as the width of the rectangle differs from the “NIИ” typography, but Marvel has since worked with NIN to commission a newly designed T-shirt to commemorate the collaboration between the band and the entertainment company.

While Vers may have been the actual fighter pilot in a past life, Fury takes a sartorial cue from the classic American flight jacket with his zip-up blouson, constructed in a cool shade of tobacco brown suede.

CAPTAIN MARVEL

Fury’s blouson jacket has a shirt-style collar, a zip-up front, and is gently elasticized around the hem. The jacket has slanted hand pockets and squared single-button cuffs that Fury wears unbuttoned.

Fury's unbuttoned jacket cuffs harmonize with his loosened tie for an insouciant off-duty look.

Fury’s unbuttoned jacket cuffs harmonize with his loosened tie for an insouciant off-duty look.

Jackets like this are frustratingly hard to find as the dominating style of suede casual outerwear seems to be varsity or bomber jackets inspired by the MA-1, while non-sueded leather seems to maintain a stronghold on collared blousons. Earlier this year, the Theory “Noland” suede jacket in tobacco brown offered a promising alternative, slightly differing from Fury’s jacket with details like horizontal seams across the chest and ribbed cuffs and hem, but the jacket is almost impossible to find new, as it’s no longer available from Bloomingdales, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, or Saks Fifth Avenue. MR PORTER and MODESENS seem to still offer the jacket. Other alternatives include the Alfredo Rifugio brown suede blouson or the Officine Generale tobacco suede jacket. If you don’t mind the addition of a set-in zippered breast pocket, check out the “Palerme” jacket by Mango or this Schott jacket made from unlined roughout cowhide.

CAPTAIN MARVEL

For fans of sartorial-themed observances, October 18 is celebrated as the Day of the Cravat in Croatia, where the modern necktie was ostensibly developed during the 16th century… so I’d like to extend a very happy Cravat Day to all of my Croatian readers. On that note, let’s take a look at Nick Fury’s neckwear.

Fury unites the colors of his outfit with a luxurious silk tie striped in the uphill direction with brown and dark navy block stripes, each separated by a thin triple stripe set that echoes the wider stripes beneath it. When a defeated Fury finds himself at the mercy of Keller (Ben Mendelsohn), the tie is flipped back against his chest, revealing the distinctive gold-embroidered branding on the inside of the blade that clearly identifies the tie as a product of Italian menswear brand Canali.

While this particular tie appears to no longer be included in Canali’s luxurious catalog, the brand offers a timeless woven silk tie with blue double stripes against a brown ground.

Given Samuel L. Jackson's well-publicized role as a Brioni ambassador, I wonder if the brand took umbrage with the actor visibly sporting a Canali tie given the competition between the two Italian menswear brands.

Given Samuel L. Jackson’s well-publicized role as a Brioni ambassador, I wonder if the brand took umbrage with the actor visibly sporting a Canali tie given the competition between the two Italian menswear brands.

Once Fury is decidedly aligned with Vers and Talos, he ditches the tie—perhaps symbolic of his abandonment of his previous bureaucratic role with S.H.I.E.L.D.—and is never seen sporting one again.

When Fury removes his jacket, we also get a better look at his shoulder holster, a pebbled tan leather rig with a holster under the left armpit for his standard-issue SIG-Sauer P226 semi-automatic pistol.

CAPTAIN MARVEL

Fury’s shirt is charcoal with a blue sheen, perhaps indicative of a silk or high-twist cotton construction, with a narrow collar, plain front, and adjustable button cuffs.

While it may be possible sacrilege to some, the shirt reminds me of some of the inexpensive off-the-rack styles such as the Van Heusen “Flex” in colors like charcoal or night blue, each available for only $37.99. On the much higher-end, Brioni includes an all-cotton “formal shirt” for $625 in a deep shade of blue that could be an update of the version that Brioni ambassador Samuel L. Jackson wore on screen. Should that be too rich for some (as it would be for me), Charles Tyrwhitt offers a non-iron twill shirt in dark navy, perhaps bluer than Fury’s screen-worn shirt but far more affordable than the Brioni option at only $79.

CAPTAIN MARVEL

Fury wears plain dark gray sharkskin flat front trousers with slightly slanted side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms. Through the trouser belt loops, he wears a black leather belt—edge-stitched with black thread—that fastens on the front with a polished steel single-prong buckle.

Chekhov's Pager.

Chekhov’s Pager.

Fury wears black leather mid-calf plain-toe boots with a single zipper on the inside of each. Samuel L. Jackson himself had worn a pair of similar Balenciaga boots for a recent Esquire cover shoot, though this brand would certainly be too “high fashion” for Nick Fury, particularly the branded $1,200 “booties” currently available as of October 2019.

Alternatives:

  • Barbanera vintage calfskin “Cash” boots (The Rake, $610)
  • Florsheim “Medfield” zip boots (Amazon, $99.99)
  • FRYE “Mark” inside-zip boots (Amazon, $98.40)
  • Laredo “Long Haul” boots (Amazon, $114.95)
  • Nunn Bush “Bristol” bicycle-toe boots (Amazon, $68)
  • Rockport “Toloni” zip boots (Amazon, $128.25)
  • Stacy Adams “Santos” side-zipper boots (Amazon, $89.95)

While the uppers appear to be more fashion than form, the boots have classic lugged rubber outsoles that are more practical for an action-oriented agent like Nick Fury who would benefit from their traction rather than slipping and sliding across the floors of the Project Pegasus archives, though the heels are hard leather. Based on the glimpse we see between the tops of his mid-calf boots and the bottoms of his trousers, Fury appears to be wearing tall black cotton lisle socks.

Note the rectangle on the arch of each outsole that appears to contain the bootmaker's brand. Any ideas as to who made these?

Note the rectangle on the arch of each outsole that appears to contain the bootmaker’s brand. Any ideas as to who made these?

Fury’s sunglasses are the most Samuel L. Jackson-like part of his wardrobe as the actor notably wears round-framed shades for many off-screen appearances. Image Optics confirmed on a post-release Facebook post that Jackson wears a pair of John Varvatos V605 with gray/crystal plastic frames and round gray lenses by De Rigo, credited to property master Drew Petrotta. These John Varvatos sunglasses are also available on Amazon.

"Nicholas Joseph Fury" introduces himself at the entrance gate to the Project Pegasus facility. For any trivia buffs, his ID includes a birthdate of July 4, 1950... appropriately enough for this all-American agent.

“Nicholas Joseph Fury” introduces himself at the entrance gate to the Project Pegasus facility. For any trivia buffs, his ID includes a birthdate of July 4, 1950… appropriately enough for this all-American agent.

We don’t get a very close look at Fury’s black 24-hour bezel watch, but it may possibly be a Rolex GMT Master II like this $11,000 watch at Big Watch Buyers, which has black PVD plating on the stainless 40mm case, ceramic rotating bezel, and Oyster-style link bracelet with fold-clasp closure. The 24-hour bezel is marked with white hour markers (numeric for even numbers, dots for odd numbers), and the black dial has white hour indicators.

According to Bob’s Watches, the 24-hour rotating bezel first appeared on the Rolex GMT Master when this iconic timepiece was introduced via partnership with Pan Am in 1954 with an additional fourth hand to efficiently use this feature, originally developed for pilots and navigators on long flights, adding yet another aviation-inspired piece to Nick Fury’s wardrobe.

"I'm about five seconds from complicating that wall with ugly-ass Skrull brains."

“I’m about five seconds from complicating that wall with ugly-ass Skrull brains.”

The final scene before the credits finds Fury back in Los Angeles and back behind his desk at S.H.I.E.L.D., but the burgundy turtleneck that has replaced his staid white shirt and tie—as well as his new makeshift eyepatch—tells us that he’s evolving from the desk-bound agent that started the story. Inspired by Carol Danvers’ USAF call-sign from her file, he renames his plan for “more heroes” from The Protector Initiative to The Avenger Initiative, kicking off his plan for “a response team comprised of the most able individuals humankind has to offer.”

Clad in a turtleneck with a patch over his left eye, the Nick Fury we see at the end of Captain Marvel foreshadows the Fury we get to know over the rest of the MCU.

Clad in a turtleneck with a patch over his left eye, the Nick Fury we see at the end of Captain Marvel foreshadows the Fury we get to know over the rest of the MCU.

The Gun

The SIG-Sauer P226 seems to be the standard issue sidearm for agents of S.H.I.E.L.D., carried by Nick Fury as well as Phil Coulson (Clark Gregg) and Talos while he’s impersonating S.H.IE.L.D. director Keller.

CAPTAIN MARVEL

The Swiss-designed SIG-Sauer P226 was still a relatively new pistol on the U.S. market in 1995, having only been developed a dozen years earlier at a time when most American police departments were still armed with .38-caliber revolvers. As these agencies gradually began to modernize and arm their offers with semi-automatic pistols, SIG-Sauer joined Beretta and Glock among the “big three” firearm manufacturers that were being pressed into service around the country, including with the FBI.

In fact, before standardizing the .40-caliber Glock in 1998, the FBI had authorized nearly a half-dozen 9×19 mm Parabellum pistols, including the SIG-Sauer P225, P226, and P228, as well as the Beretta 92FS, Smith & Wesson 5904—and even the 10mm Smith & Wesson 1076—in the agency’s quest to replace the aging six-shot .38 Special revolvers that had proved ineffective during a deadly 1986 gunfight that had proved fatally ineffective against two heavily armed bank robbers in Miami.

What to Imbibe

After their intergalactic success against Kree warriors, Fury joins Carol, Maria, and Maria’s daughter Monica for dinner at Maria’s home. As they’re still in Louisiana, Maria serves a local beer, Abita Amber, a flagship brew from Abita Brewing Company in Abita Springs, located about 30 miles north of New Orleans.

The Abita bottles appear just in front of Maria's right arm, a nice regional touch to reinforce the Louisiana setting.

The Abita bottles appear just in front of Maria’s right arm, a nice regional touch to reinforce the Louisiana setting.

Jim Patton and Rush Cumming founded Abita Brewing Company in 1986 and has grown to considerable nationwide popularity, with its flagship beers served in 46 U.S. states and Puerto Rico. In addition to Amber, Abita’s flagship beers include Golden, Jockamo IPA, Light, Purple Haze, Restoration Pale Ale, and Turbodog.

How to Get the Look

Samuel L. Jackson and Brie Larson in Captain Marvel (2019)

Samuel L. Jackson and Brie Larson in Captain Marvel (2019)
Photo credit: Chuck Zlotnick/Marvel Studios

For our throwback introduction to Nick Fury in Captain Marvel, Fury rises above the 1995 setting with a unique outfit that adds a fashionable touch to a practical off-duty ensemble of a suede blouson jacket, dark shirt, striped tie, 24-hour watch, and zip-side boots. If not completely timeless, this aviation-inspired approach to dressing is more universal than what some men were wearing in the mid-’90s!

  • Tobacco brown suede blouson jacket with shirt-style collar, zip-up front, slanted hand pockets, and single-button squared cuffs
  • Charcoal blue high-twist cotton dress shirt with narrow collar, plain front, and adjustable button cuffs
  • Brown and navy block-striped Italian silk tie with thin triple accent stripes
  • Dark gray sharkskin flat front trousers with belt loops, slightly slanted side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black edge-stitched leather belt with polished steel rectangular single-prong buckle
  • Black calf leather plain-toe inside-zip mid-calf boots with lugged rubber outsoles
  • Black cotton lisle socks
  • Tan pebbled leather shoulder holster
  • John Varvatos V605 crystal/gray plastic-framed sunglasses with round gray lenses
  • Black PVD-coated stainless watch with white numbers and markers on black dial and rotating 24-hour bezel with black link bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie… and don’t cut Nick Fury’s toast diagonally.

(Thank you to my pal Jay, who gave me tickets to go see this on the night it was released in March, making this one of the few movies I’ve actually seen in theaters on the day it came out!)

The Quote

Had a space invasion, big car chase, got to watch an alien autopsy… typical nine-to-five.

Boardwalk Empire: Nucky Thompson’s Final Suit in “Eldorado”

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Steve Buscemi as Enoch "Nucky" Thompson on Boardwalk Empire (Episode 5.08: "Eldorado")

Steve Buscemi as Enoch “Nucky” Thompson on Boardwalk Empire (Episode 5.08: “Eldorado”)

Vitals

Steve Buscemi as Enoch “Nucky” Thompson, corrupt Atlantic City politician and bootlegger

Atlantic City, Late Spring 1931

Series: Boardwalk Empire
Episode: “Eldorado” (Episode 5.08)
Air Date: October 26, 2014
Director: Tim Van Patten
Creator: Terence Winter
Costume Designer: John A. Dunn
Tailor: Martin Greenfield

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Tomorrow marks the fifth anniversary since the final episode of Boardwalk Empire aired. Set in 1931, the fifth and final season of HBO’s Prohibition-set crime drama took a seven-year leap to conclude the stories of Atlantic City’s corrupt ex-treasurer Enoch “Nucky” Thompson (Steve Buscemi) and those in his orbit, whether based on reality like “Lucky” Luciano (Vincent Piazza) or fictional creations for the show like Gillian Darmody (Gretchen Mol). Nucky himself is based on Enoch “Nucky” Johnson, the colorful and indeed corrupt politician from Atlantic City’s heyday in the roaring ’20s.

“Eldorado” gave the viewers one last day on the boardwalk with Nucky who, despite the bright sunshine, shares our sense that this may be his last promenade for more reasons than just his plans to leave town. Consider the name of the episode, which—aside from a passing reference as the name of a swanky new apartment building—is never uttered on screen but instead remains Nucky’s ultimate, and ultimately unachievable goal.

Luciano and his partners Meyer Lansky (Anatol Yusef) and Bugsy Siegel (Michael Zegen) had been embroiled in Nucky’s war with Dr. Valentin Narcisse (Jeffrey Wright), the series’ antagonist for two seasons running, and plan to end it with two gunmen taking one of them down—in public, to send a message. We immediately find ourselves following Nucky on his afternoon walk on the Atlantic City boardwalk, but we’re not the only ones tailing the dapper bootlegger as Nucky senses the foreboding presence of the two clunky and clearly armed men keeping a sinister distance behind him. Nucky makes the most of his lsat day, getting a sense of the future through a boardwalk TV demonstration, making amends for the present over Cokes with his estranged brother Eli (Shea Whigham), and finally dealing with the consequences of his past, particularly his Faustian deal with the Commodore decades prior that corrupted the then-teenage Gillian Darmody (Madeleine Yen) and ruined at least two Darmody generations to follow.

Between the flashbacks of then-deputy sheriff Nucky’s dealings with the Commodore in 1897 to his own recollections of the previous morning’s dawn swim when he was hoping to pass the point of no return, “past where there isn’t any choice… [though] you can’t know until you pass it… then it’s too late,” this terrific finale weaves in themes of the past and its consequences. Perhaps not only aware of his inevitable end, Nucky seems to welcome it, conducting end-of-life behavior like attempting amends with those he has most wronged, namely his little brother Eli and the troubled Gillian, both of whom have been reduced to considerably lower stations as a tangential result of Nucky’s past actions. He can’t undo what he’s done in the past, but he can work in the present to try to improve their futures—with gifts of cash (and a shaving kit) for Eli and tearful attempts at reassurance for Gillian, who has been idling for the better part of a decade in an asylum, in what AV Club reviewer Genevieve Valentine described as “one of the most nihilistic scenes the show’s ever given us.”

And suddenly, Dr. Narcisse and his bodyguard are shot down outside of a church in a fusillade of gunfire from two .45-toting gangsters, and we realize that perhaps Nucky may be in the clear after all as it becomes obvious that Luciano and the other heads of the newly formed Mafia commission planned to spare Nucky and take out Narcisse instead. It looks like our protagonist may reach Eldorado after all, gathering the last of his belongings before he gets a call that Joe Harper (Travis Tope), the teenage thief that Nucky has been treating like somewhat of a protégé, had been caught conducting his larcenous business in the Ritz-Carlton, Nucky’s erstwhile stronghold.

Nucky takes Joe out for some parting words of wisdom, handing him $100 to buy a 5-cent cup of coffee… but neither the cup of joe nor Joe himself are so easily bought. “Answer to everything,” Joe cynically grumbles about the cash. “No… just the best one I’ve got,” responds Nucky, who then watches with amusement as a stone-faced Joe tears up the bill. “Okay, kid, you showed me,” Nucky signs off, dropping off just the necessary nickel for Joe’s coffee. “Good luck. You’re gonna need it.”

Production still of Steve Buscemi as "Nucky" Thompson in "Eldorado", the series' final episode.

Production still of Steve Buscemi as “Nucky” Thompson in “Eldorado”, the series’ final episode.

Nucky strolls up the nighttime boardwalk and the pieces finally come into place, answering for us exactly when he had corrupted himself nearly 40 years earlier…the very minute in 1897 when he passed that point he had earlier described to his brother as “where there isn’t any choice” by betraying the vulnerable trust of the teenage Gillian Darmody and essentially selling her into the lecherous Commodore’s “service” in exchange for power. With the sense that our anti-hero could be beyond redemption, we also see the same two beefy gents in hats from before clearly watching him from a few paces ahead. New York gunmen? Is Nucky still a target? At least now we have the sense that he deserves it.

Of course, the threat is not from what’s ahead of him, but from what’s directly behind him… in this case a .32-toting Joe Harper just a few steps to his back, revealing himself to be Tommy Darmody, the teenage son of Nucky’s one-time protégé Jimmy Darmody (Michael Pitt) and, of course, the grandson of the all-but-destroyed Gillian Darmody.

“Who are you?” Nucky asks, but he already knows. “Tommy Darmody,” the youth responds, raising a Colt Model 1903 Pocket Hammerless pistol—somewhat poetically, the same firearm his father had used while in Nucky’s service—and firing three bullets into his father’s former mentor, the final and fatal shot ripping through Nucky’s left cheek in a tragic mirror of Jimmy’s own death at Nucky’s hands a decade earlier.

Nucky meets his tragic but inevitable end.

Nucky meets his tragic but inevitable end.

As Nucky slumps in a corner of the boardwalk he had once dominated, the two hatted men run onto the scene and identify themselves as federal agents to Nucky as they apprehend his assassin, but the dying bootlegger couldn’t care less. Appropriately, his escape from the fate he deserved was prevented by a teenage Darmody, having damned himself so many years earlier via the corruption of another teenage Darmody.

Family drama aside, the circumstances of Nucky’s death remind me of Larry Fay (1888-1933), the real-life bootlegger who had inspired James Cagney’s character in The Roaring Twenties. The dapper Fay had established himself during the early years of Prohibition by earning more than half a million dollars importing whiskey into New York from Canada, using the revenue to buy into a taxi cab company and ultimately a Manhattan nightclub—the El Fay—with the gregarious hostess Texas Guinan (of “Hello, sucker!” fame) serving as mistress of ceremonies. Despite nearly 50 arrests, Fay managed to evade conviction and successfully involved himself in several legitimate enterprises, including a partnership of the Casa Blanca Club. It was at this club during a New Year’s Eve celebration that Fay, nearly broke from the Depression, was fatally shot in the evening hours of December 31, 1932, by the club’s doorman Edward Maloney, a former Prohibition agent who was disgruntled by the club’s widespread wage reduction that meant a weekly pay cut of $40.

A once-powerful gangster who reigned during the roaring ’20s, now past his prime as the country suffers through the Great Depression, shot down against a boisterous nightlife backdrop by someone he would rarely regard with a second glance.

What’d He Wear?

Nucky Thompson's charcoal blue striped suit from the final episode. (Source: ScreenBid)

Nucky Thompson’s charcoal blue striped suit from the final episode. (Source: ScreenBid)

Nucky Thompson may have been out of the lucrative bootlegging business by the middle of 1931, but his dapper attire still communicated success. The former gangster dressed for the last day of his life in “Eldorado” in a charcoal-blue flannel three-piece suit, patterned with gray double-beaded track stripes. Though Steve Buscemi would wear similarly colored and striped suits throughout Boardwalk Empire, this appears to be the only appearance of this specific dark striped suit.

The size 38R suit was included in a ScreenBid auction with many other props and costumes from across the show’s run, where it was curiously described as “a black three-piece suit with the white pinstripes,” despite clearly appearing blue in the auction photos and on screen. The auctioned suit jacket includes special effect rigging over the right side of the chest with gunshot damage and blood stains from “our sad anti-hero’s final moments.”

Given his executive status and ambitions, it’s appropriate that Nucky Thompson wore suits made for the series by Brooklyn-based tailor Martin Greenfield, whose roster of clients includes at least six U.S. Presidents dating back to Dwight D. Eisenhower. Greenfield’s career as a tailor began in 1947 when the Czech immigrant and Holocaust survivor joined GGG Clothes as a “floor boy” in 1947, swiftly developing his skill and reputation as a tailor. Thirty years after he started at the East Williamsburg shop, Greenfield had risen to the position of Vice President of Production and bought out the company to establish Martin Greenfield Clothiers.

Boardwalk Empire began production on a massive Brooklyn lot in late 2009 and, with executive producer Martin Scorsese directing the pilot, the production was sparing no expense. Thus, costume designer John A. Dunn turned to the talented tailor who just happened to have a shop nearby: Martin Greenfield. “I like Nucky Thompson, Steve Buscemi,” Greenfield told Matt Welty in an interview for Complex. “He’s such a nice guy, and such a great actor, and he insists on coming to the factory to try everything on. He loves the clothing. When they ask him what do you like best in the show, he says, ‘the wardrobe.'”

The single-breasted charcoal-blue striped suit jacket from “Eldorado” has the short, wide peak lapels with straight gorges and sharp corners that were very fashionable in the early 1930s. The lapels end high on the chest, above the three-button closure. By 1931, the character has long since abandoned his former practice of pinned a red carnation to his left lapel.

"Let's just get something straight. Whatever you want, whatever you think I will do, that won't be possible. All right? You were very clever. You made a bargain. You saved your own neck. And that's more than other people can say. I'm not someone you should look to for help. I'm leaving here. Starting something new. I won't be back."

“Let’s just get something straight. Whatever you want, whatever you think I will do, that won’t be possible. All right? You were very clever. You made a bargain. You saved your own neck. And that’s more than other people can say. I’m not someone you should look to for help. I’m leaving here. Starting something new. I won’t be back.”

Additional era-specific detailing can be found in the wide shoulders with their heavily and highly roped sleeveheads which, along with the suppressed waist and flared skirt, contribute to the strong silhouette often associated with English tailoring.

Nucky’s ventless suit jacket also has a welted breast pocket and straight flapped hip pockets.

BOARDWALK EMPIRE

One detail that remains consistent from Nucky’s opulent suits featured in the earliest episodes from the start of the roaring ’20s are the Edwardian-influenced turnback or “gauntlet” cuffs that consist of a semi-cuff slightly longer than an inch around the end of each sleeve, cut out at the vent where each cuff is finished with four buttons.

BOARDWALK EMPIRE

Gone are the days of Nucky’s bold orange, purple, and blue checked shirts. Now, hardly relishing the trappings of his past as a local politician and gangster, Nucky opts for more conservative shirtings like this white cotton with a subtle gray grid-check, made for the production by Geneva Custom Shirts of New York. The shirt has a plain front and double (French) cuffs, which Nucky fastens with silver squared links with light gray enamel-centered squares with rounded corners.

Unlike his shirts of past seasons with their distinctive detachable “keyhole-cut” white collars, Nucky dressed for the ’30s in the newly established and accepted style of shirts with attached collars, one of his few concessions to evolving fashions. According to Alan Flusser in his seminal Dressing the Man, “at one point during the 1930s, nearly half of all American men reportedly wore their dress shirt collars pinned,” making the good Mr. Thompson quite the contemporary dresser with his brass shaped-end bar that slides onto each leaf of his long point collar to connect them under the tie knot.

Nucky’s “old gold” paisley silk tie is also a Geneva product, perhaps colored to reflect the mythical El Dorado, or “Golden King”, of South American legend that gave the episode its title. While Geneva, the esteemed shirtmaker who made many of the show’s shirts and ties, does not include its neckwear on its site, there is a similar-looking “Gold Estate Paisley Tie” in woven silk available from The Tie Bar for aspiring Nucks, though it lacks the neat organization of ornately patterned circles and squares that alternate against a horizontally ribbed ground.

That moment when you realize you shouldn't have sold your soul 34 years ago...

That moment when you realize you shouldn’t have sold your soul 34 years ago…

While Nucky’s suits underwent a shift in styles to reflect the times over the show’s setting from the early 1920s through 1931, the one constant was that all were three-piece suits with matching waistcoats. Nucky’s waistcoats—or vests, as we Americans colloquialize them—varied in style across the years, including single- and double-breasted, low and high fastenings, and the presence of lapels.

The matching waistcoat with this suit is a popular Nucky style with a single-breasted front with seven closely spaced buttons down to the notched bottom, where he wears the lowest button undone. The waistcoat has peak lapels and four welted pockets, but he does not wear a pocket watch as he seemingly abandoned this practice between the fourth and fifth seasons. Both the suit jacket and waistcoat share a matching two-tone navy striped satin lining.

In 1931, men were increasingly wearing belts with their trousers, though the best practice for three-piece suits remained—as it remains to this day—to wear suspenders (braces) with trousers worn with a waistcoat, serving the dual purpose of avoiding a belt buckle “bunching” under the waistcoat while also keeping the trouser waistband pulled up or, uh, suspended, well under the waistcoat to avoid the unpleasant “shirt triangle” when a trouser waistline falls too far below a jacket or waistcoat’s lowest buttoning point.

A well-tailored gent like Nucky exclusively wears suspenders with his three-piece suits, in this case a set of two-tone navy-and-blue twill suspenders that connect to buttons along the inside of his trouser waistband. The fabric of his braces are only briefly spotted when he puts his suit jacket back on after an afternoon of Cokes with Eli.

The fact that Nucky's suspenders are only spotted in this blink-and-you'll-miss-it moment is a sign that he is wearing them correctly. I've seen real-life examples of men (some that I actually consider friends!) wearing suspenders over their waistcoats and...it just makes me sad.

The fact that Nucky’s suspenders are only spotted in this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it moment is a sign that he is wearing them correctly. I’ve seen real-life examples of men (some that I actually consider friends!) wearing suspenders over their waistcoats and…it just makes me sad.

In addition to the buttons along the inside of his waistband, Nucky’s pleated suit trousers have belt loops that go unused and are only spotted in the auction photos that were featured on ScreenBid. The trousers have side pockets and two button-through back pockets and are fully cut through the legs to the bottoms, which are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Nucky's Italian-made oxfords were also included in the auction. (Source: ScreenBid)

Nucky’s Italian-made oxfords were also included in the auction. (Source: ScreenBid)

Nucky’s shoes are burgundy calf leather six-eyelet oxfords with a perforated cap toe, identified by the auction listing as Italian in provenance though no maker is identified in the description nor is a maker’s mark visible in the photos provided of Buscemi’s screen-worn footwear.

We know that the famous multi-colored wingtips in the opening credits were sold by Forzieri, a Florence-based shop that currently includes the Santoni “Wilson” cap-toe oxford in dark brown leather among its collection, though they lack the perforation and the burgundy shade of Nucky’s kicks. While not Italian, Florsheim offers a five-eyelet burgundy oxford with perforated detailing along the cap toe (Amazon) that could add a Nucky-influenced panache to your wardrobe. Other alternatives include the Mezlan “Tyson II” five-eyelet oxford with a truly perforated cap toe box and a unique pebbled vamp (Amazon) and the inexpensive cowhide Urbane Shoe Co. oxford brogue (Amazon).

While it would take a substantial investment—which a good shoe deserves—you could nearly replicate Nucky’s shoes with the Allen Edmonds “Strand” cap-toe oxford in oxblood calfskin leather with six lace eyelets and single oak leather soles. The oxblood or dark chili calf leathers are close to the shade Nucky wears, but the cigar brown (Amazon) is also a suitable alternative.

Nucky wears navy socks with bold blue chalk stripes that add a dash of character to an otherwise tastefully conservative ’30s business suit. While general searching for striped dress socks tends to yield horizontally striped results, I did find a pair of blue-on-navy vertical-striped cotton/nylon socks (available on Amazon for $22.06 as of October 2019) made by Zanella, though I can’t tell if this is the same as the Italian luxury trouser brand Zanella.

Hoping for closure, Nucky is dismayed to find Gillian far more intrigued by an errant ladybug.

Hoping for closure, Nucky is dismayed to find Gillian far more intrigued by an errant ladybug.

Nucky’s dark brown Lords hat (or “Lord’s hat”) echoed his brown shoes, harmonizing the top and bottom of his outfit. A cousin of the classic homburg that was popularized by Edward VII after a trip to Germany in the 1890s, the Lords hat shares the homburg’s general shape and “pencil curl” brim, though the Lords hat has a pinched crown that differs from the homburg’s “gutter crown”, thus bridging the formality between the more formal homburg and the more businesslike fedora. Forum contributors at The Fedora Lounge have explained that the name derives from the English usage of “lord”, alternately referring to a wealthy landowner or more specifically the House of Lords, as opposed to the more ecclesiastical definition of the word.

Nucky wears a dark chocolate brown wool felt Lords hat that has a wide black ribbed grosgrain silk band. Gentleman’s Gazette suggests that the Lords hat can be differentiated by its unbound brim (as opposed to the bound brim of a homburg), though—as Nucky illustrates—Lords hats can also have edge binding to match the band.

What to Listen to

These closing scenes of the finale alone grace the viewer to a delightful sample of popular music in the waning years of Prohibition.

Nucky’s afternoon stroll along the boardwalk is interrupted by the welcome distraction of a vivacious platinum blonde barker (Rachel Kenney) promising a vision of “the world to come”: television. Scoring the scene is a contemporary-sounding rendition of “I’m a Dreamer, Aren’t We All?” with vocals by Johnny Gale, backed by Vince Giordano and his Nighthawks Orchestra.

A talented arranger and saxophonist, Giordano has made a career of specializing in recreating the “hot jazz” sounds of the roaring ’20s and subsequent decades, contributing era-perfect music for the soundtracks of period movies like The AviatorBessie, and Cafe Society, in addition to every season of Boardwalk Empire. A trademark for Giordano’s soundtracks is to feature a contemporary artist singing in an old-fashioned style against the ’20s-style arrangement, with artists including Margot Bingham, Kathy Brier, Neko Case, Elvis Costello, Nora Jones, Liza Minnelli, Leon Redbone, Regina Spektor, Patti Smith, St. Vincent, Loudon Wainwright III, Martha Wainwright, and Rufus Wainwright among the talented lineup whose vocals were backed by the Nighthawks Orchestra on the Boardwalk Empire soundtrack.

“I’m a Dreamer, Aren’t We All?” was introduced by Janet Gaynor in the pre-Code musical Sunny Side Up (1929), which also introduced the titular track that would be used in Paper Moon (1973). Less than two weeks after Sunny Side Up was released, self-proclaimed “King of Jazz” Paul Whiteman recorded a version of “I’m a Dreamer, Aren’t We All?” on October 16, 1929, with a vocal group that included a young Bing Crosby. The song was written by Ray Henderson with vocals by Buddy DeSylva and Lew Brown.

After the television demonstration prompts a flashback to Nucky’s young adulthood when he was protected from his shotgun-wielding father by his brother Eli, we return to 1931 as Nucky goes to see a down-and-out Eli living in a dirty single room over the boardwalk. Presumably over the radio in Eli’s room, we hear a vintage-inspired rendition of “I Surrender Dear”, this time featuring Elvis Costello with Vince Giordano and the Nighthawks Orchestra, followed by an actual era recording of Rudy Vallée and the Connecticut Yankees crooning “Begging for Love”, a fitting song given each brother’s unspoken desperation for the other’s approval or affection in this moment.

Penned by Harry Barris and Gordon Clifford, “I Surrender Dear” was a massive hit for Bing Crosby in 1931, launching the crooner to stardom as his first solo hit after leaving the Rhythm Boys, a vocal group that performed with orchestras led by Paul Whiteman and Gus Arnheim. It was Arnheim’s Cocoanut Grove Orchestra that accompanied Crosby as he recorded the song on January 19, 1931, paving the way for what would be a legendary solo career. Louis Armstrong, Sam Lanin, and Ben Selvin (with Helen Rowland) were among the other major artists to record the song that year.

The multi-talented Rudy Vallée would become one of the first pop stars. With his “Vagabond Lover” persona and smooth tenor voice, the dashing singer captured the hearts of many a flapper with his recordings of popular songs like “Deep Night”, “Honey”, and “As Time Goes By”. Written by Irving Berlin, “Begging for Love” was one of many hits that Vallée  recorded with his backing band, the Connecticut Yankees.

At the Old Rumpus Burlesque Club, Vince Giordano and his Nighthawks Orchestra play “Tin Roof Blues” as Nucky arrives to pick up the last of his personal effects, followed by “Don’t Mind the Rain”, the latter accompanied by Angela McCluskey, the Scottish-born singer and lead vocalist of Wild Colonials. Apropos the Scottish performer, “Don’t Mind the Rain” was written by a UK resident, London-born composer Ned Miller.

The jazz standard “Tin Roof Blues” was first written and recorded by the New Orleans Rhythm Kings in the spring of 1923, though many major jazz acts of the roaring ’20s recorded the song, including Louis Armstrong, Ted Lewis, Jelly Roll Morton, and Joe “King” Oliver after Armstrong split from his outfit. Walter Melrose, whose company published the sheet music, added lyrics to the song, though it’s most typically performed as an instrumental.

Following the Old Rumpus scenes, we—and the dangerous youngster Joe Harper—catch up with Nucky on the boardwalk while more vintage recordings from the era play in the background. Heard as “Joe” tears up the money that Nucky gives him for coffee is Paul Whiteman’s “Ragamuffin Romeo”, written by Mabel Wayne and Harry DeCosta and which Whiteman’s band performed the previous year in his Universal Pictures pre-Code “talkie hit”, King of Jazz (1930).

Nucky continues his solo nighttime walk along the lively boardwalk, lighting up a Lucky that turns out to be not so lucky as he finds himself facing the business end of Joe Harper’s .32. Nucky falls with three rounds in his face and chest to the dissonantly light and sweet “A Bench in the Park”, another Bing Crosby number though recorded in May 1930 while in Hollywood and still performing as one of Paul Whiteman’s Original Rhythm Boys with Harry Barris and Al Rinker. Interestingly, the hard-living Crosby had been causing problems at the time of the recording, culminating in his causing a car accident while driving drunk. Bing’s antics and his increasing dissatisfaction with Whiteman’s leadership led to his eventually establishing his solo career.

While the saccharine “A Bench in the Park” may juxtapose Nucky’s death—and why shouldn’t it? it’s not like whoever was playing it knew there was going to be a fatal shooting that night—the following track communicates an appropriately mournful mood as it brings the series to a conclusion through the end credits.

Echoing the Lee Morse recording that scored Nucky and Margaret’s final dance earlier in the episode, the final song of the series is Norah Jones’ rendition of “If You Want the Rainbow (You Must Have the Rain)”, written by Mort Dixon, Oscar Levant, and Billy Rose, which had been introduced by Fanny Brice in the 1928 musical My Man that also marked Brice’s cinematic debut.

The song itself is not necessarily sorrowful—indeed, a very upbeat version was recorded by popular radio star Annette Hanshaw the same year—but Lee Morse’s torchy rendition channels the sadness that followed the bandleader through her life.

Jazz Age singer, guitarist, and bandleader Lee Morse during her 1920s heyday.

Jazz Age singer, guitarist, and bandleader Lee Morse during her 1920s heyday.

Lena Corinne Taylor was born November 30, 1897, in Cove, Oregon, a small Grande Ronde Valley town with a population that never exceeded 500 until the 1990s. Her musically inclined family moved around much during her youth, though this transience did not stop a 17-year-old Morse from marrying local woodworker Elmer Morse in May 1915. The marriage bore a son, Jack, though Lena’s increasing popularity across the Pacific Northwest as a singing guitarist increased her desire for music career, and she left Elmer and Jack in 1920. That same year, Lena was signed to her first contract after she was noticed by a vaudeville producer in San Francisco, where she had accompanied her father to the Democratic National Convention.

Over the next few years, she gained notice for her talent in musical revues and her unique knack for yodeling and blues. Despite her personal success writing and recording her own songs for Pathé beginning in 1924 (billing her as “Miss Lee Morse” to assure listeners that the singer was female), her personal life fell apart as Elmer Morse finally filed for divorce on the grounds of desertion and abandonment. Though she gained custody of her young son Jack, whom she had left with his father five years earlier, she had little interest in being a mother and continued making progress to further her career, though her stage fright for playing in clubs led to the development of a drinking problem that left her unable to perform her debut in Ziegfeld’s Simple Simon in 1930. Ruth Etting was quickly called into substitute for the drunken Morse, and “Ten Cents a Dance” became Etting’s signature song rather than Morse’s.

Another troubled relationship, this time with pianist Bob Downey, ended after more than a decade when Downey left her for a stripper and Morse turned back to the bottle for comfort. After World War II, her new husband Ray Farese hoped to revitalize Morse’s career with a Rochester radio show. One of the most unique and prolific talents of the Jazz Age with more than 200 recordings to her name, Lee Morse died in December 1954 when she was only 57 years old and remains tragically underappreciated today.

How to Get the Look

Steve Buscemi as Enoch "Nucky" Thompson on Boardwalk Empire (Episode 5.08: "Eldorado")

Steve Buscemi as Enoch “Nucky” Thompson on Boardwalk Empire (Episode 5.08: “Eldorado”)

Long past his prime at the top of Atlantic City’s underworld by mid-1931, Nucky Thompson takes a conservative yet still elegant sartorial approach for his final day on the coastal resort burg’s boardwalk . Outfitted by skilled local craftsman—in this case, Martin Greenfield Clothiers and Geneva Custom Shirts—Nucky can’t go wrong in his timeless dark charcoal blue striped three-piece suit, perfectly but not excessively detailed to follow the era’s fashions.

  • Charcoal blue with gray double-beaded stripe lightweight flannel three-piece suit:
    • Single-breasted 3-button long jacket with wide, sharp peak lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 4-button gauntlet cuffs, and long single vent
    • Single-breasted 7-button waistcoat/vest with notch lapels, four welted pockets, notched bottom, and adjustable back strap
    • Pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, button-through back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White with mini gray grid-check cotton dress shirt with point collar, plain front, and double/French cuffs
    • Gold collar bar
    • Silver-toned square cuff links
  • “Old gold” paisley silk tie
  • Navy-and-blue twill suspenders
  • Burgundy calf leather 6-eyelet perforated cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Navy blue-striped socks
  • Dark brown wool felt Lords hat with black ribbed grosgrain silk ribbon and edges

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the whole series.

The Quote

The past is past. Nothing can change it.

True Detective – Rust Cohle’s Navy Corduroy Jacket

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Matthew McConaughey as Rustin "Rust" Cohle on True Detective (Episode 1.02: "Seeing Things")

Matthew McConaughey as Rustin “Rust” Cohle on HBO’s True Detective (Episode 1.02: “Seeing Things”)

Vitals

Matthew McConaughey as Rustin “Rust” Cohle, nihilistic Louisiana State Police homicide detective

Louisiana, January 1995

Series: True Detective
Episodes:
– “The Long Bright Dark” (Episode 1.01, aired 1/12/2014)
– “Seeing Things” (Episode 1.02, aired 1/19/2014)
– “The Locked Room” (Episode 1.03, aired 1/26/2014)
– “Who Goes There” (Episode 1.04, aired 2/9/2014)
– “The Secret Fate of All Life” (Episode 1.05, aired 2/16/2014)
Director: Cary Joji Fukunaga
Creator: Nic Pizzolatto
Costume Designer: Jenny Eagan

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Time may or may not be a flat circle, but birthdays come around every year and today is Matthew McConaughey’s 50th!

Born November 4, 1969, in Uvalde, Texas*, McConaughey spent the first two decades of his career bringing a likable presence to movies that ranged from heavy drama (AmistadA Time to Kill) to frothy rom-coms (How to Lose a Guy in Ten DaysFailure to Launch) and plenty in between.

After a two-year acting hiatus following Ghosts of Girlfriends Past, the actor began focusing on more serious fare like The Lincoln Lawyer, kicking off what many—including Rachel Syme for The New Yorker—deemed “the McConaissance” with roles in Magic MikeThe Wolf of Wall Street, and ultimately his Academy Award-winning performance in Dallas Buyers Club.

* McConaughey shared his birthplace with Willis Newton, the real-life bank robber he portrayed in The Newton Boys.

It was on the heels of McConaughey’s Oscar win that he wowed HBO audiences as the nihilistic policeman Rustin “Rust” Cohle in True Detective, a role that would earn McConaughey even more deserved accolades including Emmy and Golden Globe nominations in addition to winning the Critics’ Choice Television Award for Best Actor in a Drama Series. Also nominated for the Emmy was McConaughey’s co-star Woody Harrelson, who played opposite him as veteran Louisiana State Police detective Marty Hart.

Rust Cohle: This place is like somebody’s memory of a town, and the memory is fading. It’s like there was never anything here but jungle.
Marty Hart: Stop saying shit like that. It’s unprofessional.

McConaughey and Harrelson’s chemistry shone brightly as the two disparate personalities converge and diverge over two decades of a dark, twisted homicide investigation, with Cohle’s haunted solitude often serving as the foil to the gregarious good ol’ boy Hart, putting a new spin on the mismatched cop cliché. With its Lovecraftian mythology, bravura acting, haunting atmosphere and cinematography, and Pizzolato and Fukunaga’s boldly dedicated auteurism, the first season of True Detective remains a high water mark in what some have called the second Golden Age of Television… or at least the Golden Age of TV opening credits.

What’d He Wear?

Matthew McConaughey on the set of True Detective (Source: PacificCoastNews.com)

Matthew McConaughey on the set of True Detective (Source: PacificCoastNews.com)

After our introduction to a scraggly, aged Rust Cohle in 2012, we flash back seventeen years to his partnership with Marty Hart investigating homicides for the Louisiana State Police. According to a Costumer Designers Guild article, costume designer Jenny Eagan received guidance from a former Louisiana homicide detective who served during the show’s time-frame, incorporating the detective’s feedback with her own sense of Rust Cohle’s simple, gritty approach to dressing that contrasted with Hart, whose houndstooth sport jackets, striped button-down shirts, and paisley ties would have been straight off the rack in a 1995 Macy’s.

“Rust is a guy who doesn’t care about his look,” Eagan shared with Emily Zemler of ELLE magazine for an interview published in July 2014. “Marty cared a little more about himself–he had a wife and maybe his wife bought things for him.”

“Cohle was such a complex character, and yet I knew he’d be so simple in the way that he dressed. It was all about utilitarianism for him. That’s what made him comfortable,” Eagan told Slate in a March 2014 interview. “We certainly didn’t want to dress him toward a particular fashion. In the mid-’90s, men were wearing pleated pants. Suits were boxy and squared out. That was nothing that Rust was going to be interested in. He was going to want to go to one store and pick up one of each item of clothing and wear them all indefinitely.”

Eagan had the particular challenge of making sure that the costume design, while accurate, was subdued enough to match the show’s dark, gritty tone and avoid overpowering the nuance of the plot. For Rust Cohle, this meant a limited but frequently cycled collection of corduroy sport jackets, solid shirts, textured ties, and flat front trousers with a single belt and a well-traveled pair of boots anchoring them all.

The Navy Corduroy Jacket

Rust Cohle’s penchant for corduroy, a durable but admittedly hot-wearing fabric, would keep him toasty in Louisiana’s humid subtropical climate, but the bulk of the 1995 action is set across the wintry months of the year from January through early spring. There’s no snow on the ground, but the air would have likely been brisk enough to keep Cohle from overheating in his hard-wearing fabric of choice.

“Subconsciously, as a viewer, it didn’t hit me until recently that almost every investigative scene involving Matthew McConaughey’s emotional scrapyard of a character, had him donning a well-cut, tailored corduroy jacket, as if that was the only thing keeping him from seeping slowly into the dark world Rust Cohle had created for himself after the premature death of his only child,” wrote “Tomboy Tarts” in a Medium post published shortly after True Detective‘s first season concluded. Across the 1995-set scenes of the season, Cohle wears three similarly cut corduroy sports coats: two in earthy tones of olive and brown and one in navy blue, a slightly less common color for corduroy.

Cohle at Pelican Island in "The Locked Room" (Episode 1.03).

Cohle at Pelican Island in “The Locked Room” (Episode 1.03).

This dark navy corduroy sport jacket has notch lapels of moderate width that roll to a low two-button stance with the top button in line with the hip pockets, though Cohle wears the jacket open at all times. The low stance is contemporary with 1990s fashions, though Eagan explained to the Costume Designers Guild her rationale for eschewing the double-breasted jackets that were popular during the decade: “A double-breasted sport coat would have been far too flashy for a detective and could have hindered their ability to get to their weapon.”

Made by K&P Costume Company of North Hollywood, Cohle’s navy corduroy jacket has a welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, and a single vent. The number of buttons on the sleeve seems to vary; while the jacket tends to be seen with three-button cuffs, some shots (particularly of Cohle’s left sleeve while driving their car as Hart fights a hangover) show four buttons on the cuff instead.

Cohle enters the burned-out church at the end of "Seeing Things" (Episode 1.02).

Cohle enters the burned-out church at the end of “Seeing Things” (Episode 1.02).

Corduroy jackets in warm shades of brown and tan are an Ivy style staple. If you’ve already got one in your collection, consider putting a creative twist on it à la Rust Cohle with a sports coat in navy blue corded cloth:

Production photo of Matthew McConaughey sporting Rust Cohle's pale blue shirt and loosened striped tie, both made by Anto, in "Seeing Things" (Episode 1.02)

Production photo of Matthew McConaughey sporting Rust Cohle’s pale blue shirt and loosened striped tie, both made by Anto, in “Seeing Things” (Episode 1.02)

Shirts and Ties

Costume designer Jenny Eagan expanded on the philosophy that drove her decision-making for Rust Cohle’s costumes in a July 2014 interview with Emily Zemler of ELLE magazine:

Rust is the kind [of guy] who knew there was a dress requirement. They had to wear a tie, they had to wear a shirt, they had to cover their weapon so they needed a windbreaker or a blazer. He knew that those were the rules he had to follow. I felt he walked into a store and said, “Give me two of those, two of those and two of those.” He’s not going to think about it. And then he’d mix and match every day. If you really watch the show, I just mixed and matched things. They each had maybe four different shirts and three blazers. I just rotated them around with ties.

These rotating shirts and ties that Cohle wears almost exaggeratedly, defiantly loosened were made for the series by Anto Beverly Hills. While Cohle tended to stick to blues and grays with his navy jacket and light shades of brown with his earthy corded jackets, there is a realistic degree of overlap across his wardrobe, which Eagan told Zemler she tracked with a comprehensive chart in the wardrobe trailer.

Consistent with Eagan’s recollection, I counted four different shirts and three different ties that McConaughey wears with the navy corduroy jacket; the four shirts are a slate gray mélange, ice blue, pale blue, and a heathered tan, while his textured ties are a slate gray stripe wool, taupe-on-charcoal grid-check wool, and brown grenadine. Eagan explained to Costume Designers Guild that she “made Matthew’s ties, because [she] couldn’t find any ties of the period that were subtle enough but with texture.”

“The Long Bright Dark” (Episode 1.01)

Given how long it’s taken for me to reconcile my nature, I can’t figure I’d forgo it on your account, Marty.

After identifying the murder victim from the macabre scene they encountered in Vermilion Parish as 28-year-old Dora Kelly Lange, Cohle and Hart make a disturbing visit to the coroner’s office before sharing their newfound knowledge in two briefings, first a comprehensive internal meeting with the rest of LSP CID followed by a press briefing.

Cohle takes off his navy corduroy jacket for his rides in Hart’s unmarked cruiser between each duty, sporting a slate gray shirt with a heathered stripe effect, similar to this cotton shirt by Tommy Hilfiger. The shirt has a point collar, plain front, breast pocket, and button cuffs. His textured tie, likely wool, is patterned in narrow balanced stripes of two alternating shades of gray, following an “uphill” direction.

"I don't dream. I just sleep."

“I don’t dream. I just sleep.”

The press briefing provides one of few times that Cohle actually wears his shirt buttoned to the neck with the tie fully tightened, aware that he must keep his appearance professional to be taken seriously… despite having just mocked Hart’s assumption that Cohle strives for professionalism.

Cohle joins Hart behind Quesada as the LSP conducts their briefing to the press.

Cohle joins Hart behind Quesada as the LSP conducts their briefing to the press.

Gray is the color of the day for Cohle, as he also wears a pair of dark gray trousers with a high waist. Eagan intentionally avoided the popular pleated style of the era, and Cohle’s flat front trousers are more flattering for McConaughey’s lean frame while also consistent with Cohle’s minimalist, non-trendy sense of style. These trousers have narrowly welted “frogmouth” front pockets, two button-through back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms.

“Seeing Things” (Episode 1.02)

Most of the time, I was convinced, shit, I’d lost it… but there were other times, I thought I was mainlining the secret truth of the universe.

The next episode begins with Cohle and Hart visiting Dora Lange’s headache-stricken mother, Mrs. Kelly (Tess Harper), as their investigation into her murder continues. Under his navy corded sports coat, Cohle’s ice blue (or “ice white”) shirt is a pale blue shade away from white. The shirt has a point collar—worn unbuttoned at the neck, of course—and a plain front and button cuffs. His charcoal wool tie is patterned with a subtle taupe grid-check, and he wears the same dark gray trousers seen in the previous episode.

TRUE DETECTIVE / 102

After weeks of canvassing with few promising developments, Cohle and Hart’s boss Major Ken Quesada (Kevin Dunn) brings in a task force issued by Governor Tuttle. The proposed replacement team stirs resentment between Cohle and Quesada, though cooler minds prevail and Hart manages to squeeze two additional weeks out of Quesada, giving them until the end of the month to solve the case. Cohle and Hart follow a lead regarding a tent revival that lands them at a burned-out church in Eunice, Louisiana, that reveals itself to be chock-full of clues.

In addition to the navy corduroy jacket, Cohle wears a pale blue shirt—not as light as the icy shirt from the beginning of the episode—with a front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs. The textured gray duo-tone striped tie returns from the first episode, and he wears a pair of tobacco brown flat front trousers styled similarly to the gray pants he’d been wearing with the navy jacket to this point.

"You know me, I don't see the connection between two dead cats and a murdered woman... but then, I'm from Texas."

“You know me, I don’t see the connection between two dead cats and a murdered woman… but then, I’m from Texas.”

“The Locked Room” (Episode 1.03)

World needs bad men. We keep the other bad men from the door.

The third episode picks up where the previous episode left off as Cohle and Hart’s investigation at the burned-out church continues into the evening with backup on the scene to gather evidence, thus they’re wearing the same clothes from the closing scenes of “Seeing Things”.

Cohle’s navy corduroy jacket doesn’t re-appear until more than halfway through “The Locked Room” as the lonely nihilist decides to “put [his] insomnia to good use,” spending his late nights searching through old case files until one evening’s investigation is interrupted by the alarm on his watch (despite the Lorus diver he wears not being equipped with such a function.) The alarm calls him to a double date engineered by Marty and Maggie at Longhorn’s, a C&W-themed bar, where Cohle talks synesthesia and getting drunk in front of Notre Dame with Maggie’s friend before leaving early to resume his gruesome research.

He appears to be wearing the same pale blue shirt as seen earlier in the episode, now paired with the taupe-on-charcoal grid-check wool tie and his gray flat front trousers.

TRUE DETECTIVE / 103

The next day, when Hart is hungover from his late night of drunkenly attacking his mistress Lisa (Alexandria Daddario) and her new boyfriend, Cohle drives them two hours away to Pelican Island to meet with a lead, a grizzled fisherman whose granddaughter ran off with Reggie Ledoux. Their canvassing leads them to Light of the Way Christian Academy, where Cohle briefly talks to scar-faced groundskeeper Errol Childress (Glenn Fleshler) before he’s summoned back to Hart’s car to hunt down Reggie Ledoux, who just became the pair’s best suspect for the brutal killings.

Cohle wears the same navy corduroy jacket, charcoal checked tie, and dark gray trousers as he did the previous day, though he’s changed his shirt into the heathered slate gray shirt from the first episode.

Production photo of Matthew McConaughey and Woody Harrelson in "The Locked Room" (Episode 1.03).

Production photo of Matthew McConaughey and Woody Harrelson in “The Locked Room” (Episode 1.03).

“Who Goes There” (Episode 1.04)

They really should have a better system for this.

Cohle begins phasing out his navy corduroy jacket in the fourth episode, with its sole appearance in “Who Goes There” around halfway through the episode. Cohle and Hart have planned their gambit for Cohle, under the guise of a leave of absence, to re-infiltrate the Iron Crusaders biker gang where he used to work undercover. To do so, he needs drugs as bait for the bikers… and to get his hands on quality drugs, he takes the evidence room key from an unwitting fellow detective to swap out some high-quality product with mixed stuff that will languish in the evidence room.

Though Cohle wears his usual gray flat front trousers with the navy corded sports coat, he sports a tan shirt and brown grenadine tie that he typically reserves for his brown or olive corduroy jackets.

TRUE DETECTIVE / 104

“The Secret Fate of All Life” (Episode 1.05)

I can say that I walked away from the experience with a greater respect for the sanctity of human life.

The navy corduroy jacket’s final appearance is brief, worn with the same tan shirt and the taupe-on-charcoal wool tie as he gives his deposition to the police shooting board after the death of Reggie Ledoux.

Cohle accounts for his and Hart's gunfight with Reggie Ledoux in "The Secret Fate of All Life" (Episode 1.05).

Cohle accounts for his and Hart’s gunfight with Reggie Ledoux in “The Secret Fate of All Life” (Episode 1.05).

Constants

Rust Cohle keeps a truly minimalist wardrobe, seemingly wearing the same belt and boots with all of his outfits in these 1995 scenes. The black leather roper boots have a plain toe, low shafts, and a red branded rectangle centered on the bottom of each outsole. His trousers are gently flared at the bottoms to accommodate the boots.

Cohle’s plain black leather belt has a steel single-prong buckle, which he loads up with the tools of his profession. To the right of the buckle is his Louisiana State Police badge, a distinctive gold badge shaped like the state of Louisiana against a black leather holder. He also wears his radio and pager on his belt and, across the back, he wears his holstered Glock 17 (indeed the issued duty sidearm of the LSP), his handcuffs, and a spare magazine for the Glock.

Cohle keeps his jacket off in the LSP station, revealing the tools of his trade around his belt.

Cohle keeps his jacket off in the LSP station, revealing the tools of his trade around his belt.

Cohle’s stainless steel dive watch has been the subject of much speculation in the years since the show first debuted on HBO. Many brands are still tossed around as possibilities, including Citizen, Orient, Seiko, Timex, and even Rolex. However, the speculation all but ended when an e-true detective, “AJMc” on the WatchUSeek forum, reported that he received confirmation from the show’s property master Lynda Reiss that the watch supplied for Matthew McConaughey was indeed a Lorus dive watch from the mid-1990s.

Based on this information and the appearance of Rust’s stainless watch with its black bezel, black dial with cyclops at the 3:00 date window, and “Mercedes” hands, the model was deduced to likely be the Lorus Tidal LR 0021 diver.

Cohle takes a turn behind the wheel of Marty Hart's unmarked Chevy Caprice, airing just a few months before the first of McConaughey's several commercials featuring the actor sharing his wandering thoughts from behind the wheel of a new Lincoln.

Cohle takes a turn behind the wheel of Marty Hart’s unmarked Chevy Caprice, airing just a few months before the first of several commercials featuring Matthew McConaughey sharing his wandering thoughts from behind the wheel of a new Lincoln.

One of the strongest arguments that Citizen proponents used was the fact that McConaughey is clearly wearing a ridged black resin Citizen PVC sport strap with the words “WIND VELOCITY” printed in white on the end of the strap with smaller measurements (m/sec in white, knots in yellow) further toward the inside of the wrist that help validate the theory. (See here.)

However, the word of the prop master and the fact that “LORUS” can be faintly read on the dial in some production stills and screenshots overrule theory, and we can all sleep well knowing for sure that Matthew McConaughey wore an era-correct Lorus dive watch on a resin Citizen strap for his role as Rust Cohle on the first season of True Detective.

A long night in "The Locked Room" (Episode 1.03).

A long night in “The Locked Room” (Episode 1.03).

One additional constant? Cohle exclusively wears white ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirts.

What to Imbibe

Rust Cohle was famous for his Lone Star beer, particularly in the 2012 sequences where he downs a six-pack of tall boys over the course of his interrogation with detectives Gilbough and Papania. In 1995, we see him drinking plenty—beginning with “Who Goes There” (Episode 1.04)—to steel himself for the re-infiltration of the Iron Crusaders. Like his partner Marty Hart, Jameson Irish whiskey fuels much of Cohle’s preparation and we also can spy him drinking a can of Schaefer Light beer at the bar with Marty.

How to Get the Look

Matthew McConaughey as Rustin "Rust" Cohle on HBO's True Detective (Episode 1.03: "The Locked Room")

Matthew McConaughey as Rustin “Rust” Cohle on HBO’s True Detective (Episode 1.03: “The Locked Room”)

Though his wardrobe was designed to accommodate the minimal thought that Rust Cohle would put into dressing, Cohle keeps his outfits relatively coordinated, saving the earth tones for his brown and olive corduroy jackets and using grays and blues to coordinate with this navy corduroy jacket.

  • Navy corduroy single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and single vent
  • Light blue or gray shirt with point collar, front placket, and button cuffs
  • Gray-toned textured tie with subtle pattern or stripe
  • Dark gray flat front trousers with belt loops, narrowly welted “frogmouth” front pockets, button-through back pockets, and “bootcut” plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt with steel single-prong buckle
  • Black leather plain-toe roper boots
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Lorus Tidal stainless steel dive watch with black bezel and black dial (with 3:00 “cyclops” date window) on black resin Citizen “Wind Velocity” strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the first season of True Detective. While the series’ following two seasons were met with cooler receptions among audiences and critics, True Detective‘s landmark first season was universally praised. All eight episodes were directed by Cary Joji Fukunaga, who is directing Daniel Craig’s final James Bond film, No Time to Die, set for release in April 2020.

You can also read more insight from costume designer Jenny Eagan regarding most major characters in True Detective‘s first season at these links that were cited throughout the post:

The Quote

I don’t sleep. I just dream.

Alain Delon in Le Samouraï

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Alain Delon as Jef Costello in Le Samouraï (The Samurai) (1967)

Alain Delon as Jef Costello in Le Samouraï (The Samurai) (1967)

Vitals

Alain Delon as Jef Costello, slick, taciturn, and meticulous contract killer

Paris, April 1967

Film: The Samurai
(French title: Le Samouraï)
Release Date: October 25, 1967
Director: Jean-Pierre Melville

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

On Alain Delon’s 84th birthday, let’s explore Le Samouraï, arguably one of the best, most influential, and most stylish roles of Delon’s career and the frequent subject of requests from BAMF Style readers like Marcus and Mohammed.

Despite being Jean-Pierre Melville’s tribute to 1940s noir, Le Samouraï was also the maverick director’s first color production as he had evidently elected not to film in black-and-white. The color photography allows Melville to make the most of his shadowy settings from Jef Costello’s gray, barren apartment to the throwback glamour of the Parisian nightclub.

Delon stars as Jef Costello, a cold contract killer whose solitary lifestyle nods to Japanese lone warrior mythology—hence the title—and whose personal style co-opts the classic American noir anti-hero. Melville had written the script and developed the character specifically for Delon, stripping away the persona that the actor had cultivated over the previous decade as a charming if mischievous romantic who—even as a criminal—could win over the audience with a knowing smirk or grin.

The collaboration between Melville and Delon was a match made in cinematic heaven, evident from the day that Melville brought his script for Delon to read in person. After Melville shared the title with Delon, the actor escorted the director back to his bedroom, populated solely by a leather couch and a samurai blade on the wall: Melville had found his perfect Jef Costello. The result, which has influenced directors from the Coens and Scorsese to Tarantino and John Woo, is a spare yet stylish neo-noir that rightly maintains its 100% rating on Rotten Tomatoes. To learn more, I invite you to read James Roberts’ excellent 2017 essay for Glide magazine, which discusses Le Samouraï with far more eloquence than I could muster.

"There is no greater solitude than that of the samurai unless it is that of the tiger in the jungle... Perhaps..." — Bushido (Book of the Samurai)

“There is no greater solitude than that of the samurai unless it is that of the tiger in the jungle… Perhaps…”
— Bushido (Book of the Samurai)

The film begins on Saturday, April 4*, with Jef Costello fully dressed, laying prone on the bed in his sparse flat, chain-smoking Gitanes as his caged bird serenades him. At 6 p.m., he rises, meticulously dons his trench coat and fedora, and leaves the apartment. After stealing a Citroën sedan, he drives to a wordless exchange with his underworld contact (André Salgues), who gives Jef new license plates, forged identity papers, and a .38-caliber revolver. Jef’s next stop is to the apartment of glamorous prostitute Jane Lagrange (Nathalie Delon) to establish his alibi for the following hours before finally making his way to Martey’s, the nightclub that would be the setting of his first on-screen murder. Jef sneaks down into the club’s basement and into the manager’s office, where he confronts Martey himself.

Martey: Who are you?
Jef: It doesn’t matter.
Martey: What do you want?
Jef: To kill you.

Martey reaches for his own revolver, but there’s no outdrawing Jef, who kills the nightclub owner with three shots. Once the relatively clean hit is complete, Jef disposes of his gloves, gun, and stolen car before meeting up again with his underworld cronies for a smoky 2 a.m. card game. A police dragnet rounding up all the usual suspects includes Jef, who finds himself in a room with dozens of other men dressed in raincoats and hats per the description given by Valérie (Cathy Rosier), the attractive pianist with whom Jef locked eyes after leaving Martey’s office. Magically, most of the eyewitnesses fail to identify him (with one even misremembering the killer to have a mustache), and his pre-arranged alibi with Jane is the final piece of the puzzle that leads to Jef’s release from custody…but the police superintendent (François Périer) remains suspicious of the laconic young man, and the game is afoot!

Jef easily loses the police tail, but an additional complication arises when he meets a representative of his client on an overpass near the elevated rail station. “It’s done,” Jef informs him, but there’s still more to be done in the eyes of the client, who attempts to tie off loose ends by double-crossing Jef and shooting him. Jef overpowers the gunman, who escapes, but not until after getting a shot off that tears into Jef’s left arm… tearing a hole into the sleeve of his trench coat and penetrating the hitman’s protective armor.

What’d He Wear?

The killer is described as tall, young, wearing a raincoat and hat.

Despite being more than a half-century old, fashion writers still take the time the explore Le Samouraï‘s killer style every few years: Sarah Maher for Refinery29 in 2008, Calum Marsh for Esquire in 2013, Style in Film in 2015, and Jonathan Heaf for British GQ last year. Now, after several requests from BAMF Style readers, it’s my turn to take a comprehensive look at Jef Costello’s trench coat and fedora, updated by Alain Delon a generation after Humphrey Bogart had established it as a staple of the “noir hero” uniform in movies like Casablanca, The Big Sleep, and Sirocco.

Of all the gin joints...

Of all the gin joints…

The trench coat is one of the most enduring and iconic pieces of men’s outerwear, tracing its unquestionably British origins back to the middle of the 19th century where Aquascutum and Burberry continue to battle for credit of the initial creation. John Emary of Aquascutum (Latin for “water shield”) developed a groundbreaking water-resistant wool ankle-length coat in the 1850s that the company cites as the precursor what we call the trench coat, though it wasn’t until 1879 that Aquascutum’s competitor Thomas Burberry invented the innovative gabardine fabric that would make the garment so effective against the elements and was meant to replace the stinky rubber that was used to construct most raincoats up to that point. The War Office received Burberry’s design for an officer’s raincoat in 1901, intended to be a lighter weight alternative to the heavy regulation great coats already authorized by the British Army that blended in the functionality and wearability of the waterproof regulation cape.

What emerged as the classic “trench coat” was modernized during World War I, optimized for protecting wearers during trench warfare with oversized pockets and D-rings for accessories. An additional wartime modification was the addition of shoulder straps (epaulettes) for rank insignia, though these have remained an enduring characteristic of civilian trench coats.

Thanks to marketing shortcuts and colloquialism, the term “trench coat” is often inaccurately applied to simple raincoats or dusters, but Jef Costello’s coat is a classic trench coat in every sense, detailed with the storm flaps, shoulder straps, D-ring belted front and belted cuffs, and traditional ten-button, double-breasted front associated with the garment.

LE SAMOURAI

Costello’s coat is made from a tightly woven cotton gabardine twill in a light sandy shade of khaki, one of the most traditional colors for a trench coat. There is a storm flap (or “gun flap” as it would cover the butt of a shouldered long arm) over the right shoulder and a straight-bottomed storm flap across the back. The two external pockets are slanted and positioned just below the belt, each with a storm flap detailed with a small button at the top and bottom that can be buttoned up from the outside to protect the contents from rain.

The double-breasted front consists of ten mixed beige plastic four-hole sew-through buttons, arranged in two parallel columns of five buttons each, with two rows below the belt and three above it up to the neck, where a hook-and-eye throat latch closure can securely fasten in addition to the top row of buttons, though Costello typically leaves this undone even when he wears it closed over his chest. There is also a tab under the left side of the collar with three buttonholes that could be used to close the collar around the neck.

Costello’s coat has the traditional double-layered shoulder straps that button onto the coat at the neck. The self-belt extends around the coat’s waist line with the brass D-rings added during World War I to carry equipment like map cases, swords, and—perhaps apocryphally—hand grenades. The end of each raglan sleeve is fastened with a mini-belt that closes through a single-prong buckle. Like the belt around the waist, the belted cuffs have a brown leather-covered buckle.

Costello stands among the usual suspects in a police lineup.

Costello stands among the usual suspects in a police lineup.

Costello only wears the trench coat for the first half of the movie, hanging it up after the left sleeve is damaged by a bullet during a scuffle with the unnamed blonde gunman representing his client.

The popularity of Delon’s costuming has endured for more than a half-century and remains a popular subject of discussion regarding iconic movie menswear, though some question remains regarding who manufactured the coat. Aquascutum and Burberry have both been suggested as possible contenders due to their respective roles in the trench coat’s development, with Jonathan Heaf writing for British GQ that he leaned toward the former, citing the centralized and closer placement of the buttons.

Aquascutum and Burberry continue to be contenders in the modern trench coat game, with the closest classic examples being:

  • Aquascutum Bogart Trench Coat in a camel polyester/cotton blend (Aquascutum, $1,250)
  • Aquascutum Corby Double Breasted Trench Coat in a camel polyester/cotton blend (Aquascutum, $1,105)
  • Burberry Long Chelsea Heritage Trench Coat in honey cotton gabardine (Burberry, $1,990)
  • Burberry Long Kensington Heritage Trench Coat in honey cotton gabardine (Burberry, $1,990)
  • Burberry Westminster Heritage Trench Coat in honey cotton gabardine (Burberry, $2,190)

Some indication may come from the brief glimpse we get of the lining when Costello is asked to exchange his coat and hat with another man when Jane’s paramour, Weiner, is called in to review the lineup. Interestingly, Costello’s coat from the mid-back down is lined in a brown shadow plaid that looks to be neither the distinctive Burberry house tartan plaid or the Aquascutum brown, navy, and tan club check, though this latter check—the Club 92—was reportedly not introduced until 1967, the same year that Le Samouraï was produced and released.

If this style of plaid lining was indeed used by Aquascutum prior to the introduction of the Club 92 check in 1967, that would clearly identify them as the maker of Jef Costello's trench coat.

If this style of plaid lining was indeed used by Aquascutum prior to the introduction of the Club 92 check in 1967, that would clearly identify them as the maker of Jef Costello’s trench coat.

While every noir-esque anti-hero needs his badass longcoat, a smart fedora is equally as important. Jef Costello opts for a self-edged fedora in gray wool felt with a wide black ribbed grosgrain silk ribbon. The low crown is less pinched than the traditional fedora with more than an inch across the front separating the dent on each side.

Costello doesn't flinch in the face of death.

Costello doesn’t flinch in the face of death.

Given Alain Delon’s then-upcoming role opposite Jean-Paul Belmondo in Borsalino, it would be reasonable enough to assume that Jef Costello topped his head with a sharp gray fedora from that iconic Italian hatter; however, we get a glimpse of the gold branding on the inside of Costello’s hat when he surrenders his fedora to the hat-check clerk at Martey’s nightclub before the final scene.

Appropriately enough, there had also been an ongoing discussion at The Fedora Lounge regarding Delon’s hat, where brighter minds and better informed hat-spotting eyes than mine may be able to best deduce from the hat’s profile and gold manufacturer’s mark who crafted the distinctive hat atop Delon’s head in Le Samouraï.

Unlike his previous visits to Martey's, Costello checks his hat at the door, giving us a look at the inside.

Unlike his previous visits to Martey’s, Costello checks his hat at the door, giving us a look at the inside.

Much as he wears the trench coat and fedora associated with the American noir protagonist, Jef Costello also wears the quintessential American men’s shirt, a cotton button-down shirt.

After John E. Brooks had spotted English polo players buttoning their collars to the bodies of their shirts, Brooks Brothers introduced the button-down collar shirt to the American menswear market, where it became a respected and oft-duplicated staple of Ivy and “trad” style. Costello’s white cotton shirt has a button-down collar with an elegant roll, a breast pocket, and single-button rounded cuffs.

LE SAMOURAI

Simplicity is the key of Jef Costello’s style game, and he opts for a solid dark textured tie that can’t fail with any outfit, particularly his preferred white shirts and dark gray suits. Costello’s go-tie tie appears to be a black grenadine silk, though the harsh lights of the garage make both the tie and his second overcoat appear to be a dark, inky shade of navy blue.

You can find quality black grenadine ties for less than $100 from many reputable neckwear experts, including:

  • Aklasu ($80)
  • Beckett & Robb ($98)
  • Elizabetta ($88)
  • J. Press ($98)
  • John Henric ($69)
  • Kent Wang ($75)
  • Sam Hober ($95)
Note the blue-ish cast of Costello's coat and tie as he awaits his latest license plates and revolver.

Note the blue-ish cast of Costello’s coat and tie as he awaits his latest license plates and revolver.

Costello’s first suit, the one he wears under the trench coat, is a shark gray pick-and-pick wool, apropos his profession and reputation as a silent killer.

The single-breasted suit jacket has moderate notch lapels that roll to a two-button front, a welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back.

LE SAMOURAI

Costello’s single reverse-pleated trousers have a fitted waistband with a narrow tab that extends to close on one of two buttons placed to the right of the fly. The trousers have slightly slanted side pockets, button-through back pockets, and wide turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottoms.

LE SAMOURAI

With both of his suits, Costello wears black leather cap-toe oxfords with thin black silk socks.

Alerted by his bird, Costello looks for the recording device that the detectives left in his apartment. Note that these are the trousers of his darker gray suit that he wears with the charcoal Chesterfield.

Alerted by his bird, Costello looks for the recording device that the detectives left in his apartment. Note that these are the trousers of his darker gray suit that he wears with the charcoal Chesterfield.

After he returns home from the scuffle that got him shot in the arm, Costello strips off his trench coat, suit jacket, and white shirt to reveal a plain white short-sleeved undershirt. This cotton crew-neck T-shirt has banded sleve ends.

A Sunday nap.

A Sunday nap.

On Sunday night, having slept away most of the day after treating his gunshot wound, Costello hangs up his damaged trench coat and changes into a charcoal wool Chesterfield-style coat that becomes his outerwear of choice for the remainder of the film.

Costello’s coat also a welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, three-button cuffs, and a single vent. We get a glimpse at the manufacturer’s label stitched above the inside breast pocket, revealing what appears to be “EDDY” stitched in light gray with red bars along the top and bottom of the label. Though this overcoat has notch lapels that lack the formal velvet collar associated with the traditional Chesterfield, the covered fly on the single-breasted front is a traditional element.

Costello's dark Chesterfield-like coat makes its debut when he returns to Martey's.

Costello’s dark Chesterfield-like coat makes its debut when he returns to Martey’s.

Costello also changes out of his shark gray suit for the second half of the film, wearing a similarly tailored and styled suit though in a dark charcoal worsted just a shade away from black, communicating his deadly business. This charcoal gray suit with its single-breasted, two-button jacket and pleated trousers is almost identical to the lighter gray suit except that the bottoms are plain-hemmed rather than cuffed.

Costello spends time in Valérie's apartment.

Costello spends time in Valérie’s apartment.

No matter which suit or coat he’s wearing, Costello always prepares for a hit by donning a pair of white cotton unlined dress gloves. It’s a darkly humorous choice when one considers the idiom “taking off the white gloves,” which means preparing to ramp up a fight; in Costello’s case, putting on white gloves mean that he’s about to carry out his deadly duties.

Costello very deliberately dons his white gloves for one last assassination.

Costello very deliberately dons his white gloves for one last assassination.

Jef Costello supplements his simple and elegant sartorial approach with a cushion-shaped Baume & Mercier wristwatch, worn on the inside of his right wrist on a black textured leather band. The round white dial has black Roman numerals.

5:51 p.m.

5:51 p.m.

In some shots, there is a plain gold ring—likely a wedding band—on the third finger of Delon’s left hand. It’s likely an oversight, though it does add an interesting suggestion to Jef Costello’s unexplored personal history.

The Copycat

The blonde gunman (Jacques Leroy) who ruins Jef’s trench coat and gray suit with a bullet through the left sleeve dresses similarly to Jef, first seen in a gray flannel suit, white shirt, and black tie not unlike Jef’s Saturday evening attire.

The next day, the gunman is waiting for Jef in his apartment, dressed in a trench coat very similar to the one that Jef famously wore through the first half of the movie, though the gunman’s coat appears to be a Burberry product as evident by the brand’s distinctive tartan plaid lining seen as Jef kicks him into his kitchen.

This unnamed blonde gunman learns the hard way that Jef Costello does not like to be copied...or shot at or threatened.

This unnamed blonde gunman learns the hard way that Jef Costello does not like to be copied…or shot at or threatened.

Are these the de facto “uniforms” of assassins in the Melville cinematic universe? Or is the blonde gunman himself trying to be more like his target?

The Gun

Despite the French production and setting, Jef Costello is armed for each assassination with a classic American police revolver, the Smith & Wesson Model 10 with a four-inch barrel. Introduced in 1899 as the “Military & Police Model”, Smith & Wesson was still producing this tried-and-true .38 Special six-shooter nearly three quarters of a century later. Other silver screen killers may have favored more modern sidearms by the 1960s, such as James Bond with his famous Walther PPK, but Costello characteristically opts for a trusty, reliable piece like his spiritual predecessors in his shadowy subgenre.

Quicker on the draw, Costello kills Martey with three shots from his .38, setting the events of the movie in motion.

Quicker on the draw, Costello kills Martey with three shots from his .38, setting the events of the movie in motion.

Costello actually uses two different Smith & Wesson Model 10 revolvers over the course of Le Samouraï, each one issued to him by the garage keeper. He uses the first one to kill Martey, disposing of it by tossing it from a bridge into the river.

Costello fires his first Smith & Wesson Model 10 at Martey.

Costello fires his first Smith & Wesson Model 10 at Martey.

While the profile of both revolvers look mostly identical, note the slight changes in the front sight and hammer to differentiate between the two props.

The first revolver (above) is likely an older model manufactured before the mid-1950s when Smith & Wesson transitioned from the rounded “half moon” front sight as seen above to the ramped front sight of the second revolver (below). The first revolver also has a straighter hammer while the second revolver has a more ergonomically friendly spurred hammer.

Framed in a shot to echo the first shooting, Costello fires his second Smith & Wesson Model 10 revolver at Olivier Rey.

Framed in a shot to echo the first shooting, Costello fires his second Smith & Wesson Model 10 revolver at Olivier Rey.

When Costello checks the load in his Smith & Wesson, we see that it’s loaded with six Gévelot rounds of .38 Special.

The significance of this shot increases when it is mirrored a few scenes later after the police superintendent checks to see if Costello's revolver was loaded.

The significance of this shot increases when it is mirrored a few scenes later after the police superintendent checks to see if Costello’s revolver was loaded.

What to Imbibe

When Jef returns to Martey’s, he requests simply “a whiskey” and is given a highball glass filled with ice and what appears to be Scotch. The bartender places a bottle of soda water next to the drink, but Jef never gets a chance to actually imbibe as the chief bartender (Robert Favart) who was in on the plan to hire him greets him with: “If you were the man wanted by the police, you could say the criminal always returns to the scene of the crime.”

While one bartender pours, another warns.

While one bartender pours, another warns.

Jef Costello doesn’t seem to be much of a drinker as it is, instead stocking up on plenty of bottled Evian water and packets of Gitanes cigarettes at his home.

How to Get the Look

Alain Delon as Jef Costello in Le Samouraï (The Samurai) (1967)

Alain Delon as Jef Costello in Le Samouraï (The Samurai) (1967)

Alain Delon channels classic film noir anti-heroes with his trench coat and fedora, worn over a simple but effective gray business suit, white button-down shirt, and black grenadine tie.

  • Shark gray worsted wool suit
    • Single-breasted 2-button suit jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, ventless back
    • Single reverse-pleated trousers with extended waistband tab, slightly slanted side pockets, button-through back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • White cotton shirt with button-down collar, breast pocket, and 1-button rounded cuffs
  • Black grenadine silk tie
  • Black leather cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Black silk socks
  • White crew-neck short-sleeve undershirt
  • Khaki gabardine cotton trench coat with 10-button front, epaulettes, storm flap, self-belt (with leather-covered single-prong buckle), slanted storm pockets, belted cuffs, back storm flap, and single vent
  • Dove gray wool felt fedora with wide black grosgrain silk band
  • Baume & Mercier platinum cushion-cased wristwatch with white round dial (with black Roman numeral markers) on textured black leather strap
  • Gold wedding band

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. It would influence scores of filmmakers to come, and many elements of the plot would be adapted by Walter Hill for the great 1978 neo-noir The Driver starring Ryan O’Neal.

Can’t get enough of Delon in a trench coat? Check out Le Cercle Rouge, also directed by Melville!

The Quote

I never lose. Not really.

Fred MacMurray’s Flannel Sport Suit in Double Indemnity

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Fred MacMurray as Walter Neff in Double Indemnity (1944)

Fred MacMurray as Walter Neff in Double Indemnity (1944)

Vitals

Fred MacMurray as Walter Neff, slick insurance salesman

Los Angeles, May through July 1938

Film: Double Indemnity
Release Date: July 3, 1944
Director: Billy Wilder
Costume Designer: Edith Head

Background

What’d you think I was, anyway? A guy that walks into a good-lookin’ dame’s front parlor and says, “Good afternoon, I sell accident insurance on husbands. You got one that’s been around too long, one you’d like to turn into a little hard cash? Just give me a smile and I’ll help you collect?”

Let’s finally kick off Noir-vember with the quintessential film noir, Double Indemnity, the quotable masterpiece from the pen of James M. Cain, adapted for Billy Wilder’s screen direction by pulp writer Raymond Chandler and photographed by inventive cinematographer John F. Seitz. Double Indemnity is the one that has it all: the seductive femme fatale (Barbara Stanwyck), the wisecracking protagonist willing to murder for her (Fred MacMurray), and the intrepid investigator, though in this case it’s not a trench coated private detective but an energetic, experienced, and irascible insurance claims manager played by Edward G. Robinson at his best.

In addition to its first-rate cast, Double Indemnity boasts all the usual elements of noir from sordid murder and sexual innuendo (mostly to skirt the Hays Code) to shadowy, Venetian blind-filtered cinematography and smoking… plenty of smoking, from Fred MacMurray’s smooth single-hand match-lighting for Robinson’s “two for a quarter” cigars to his own endless Chesterfields that dangle from his mouth throughout.

DOUBLE INDEMNITY

Though Chandler’s novels like The Big Sleep were respected in the industry, he was a relative newcomer to Hollywood that needed considerable guidance writing a screenplay as opposed to a novel. He resented how closely he needed to collaborate with Wilder, disliking the Austrian-born director’s approach to work though Wilder wisely worked to keep Chandler happy, well aware that the talented writer’s gift for language and dialogue would take Double Indemnity to the next level. At Chandler’s initial urging, both men eventually recognized that Cain’s dialogue would need considerable finessing, and Cain himself was quite pleased with how his novella was adapted for the screen, explaining that “It’s the only picture I ever saw made from my books that had things in it I wish I had thought of. Wilder’s ending was much better than my ending, and his device for letting the guy tell the story by taking out the office dictating machine—I would have done it if I had thought of it.”

Cain based his source material on several real-life crimes from the era, notably the famous case of Ruth Snyder, the housewife who conspired with her lover to kill her husband, though the homely Mrs. Snyder was considerably less sultry and far less effective than Stanwyck’s Phyllis Dietrichson as it reportedly took eight attempts for Ruth and her paramour, a married corset salesman named H. Judd Gray, to kill the man. As in Double Indemnity, there was an insurance angle as Mrs. Snyder was able to enlist the help of an unscrupulous insurance salesman—though without any promise of romantic involvement—who sold her a policy that would pay double indemnity should her husband fall victim to an act of unexpected violence. Finally, Ruth and Judd successfully garroted Albert Snyder in March 1927, a week before Ruth’s 32nd birthday. She wouldn’t live to be 33 as he suspicious behavior landed both she and Gray under surveillance and eventually in custody, where the two turned on each other not unlike MacMurray and Stanwyck’s tempestuous couple at the black heart of Double Indemnity. Ruth Snyder and H. Judd Gray were both convicted and sentenced to death in the electric chair. Mrs. Snyder’s 1928 execution at Sing Sing was famously photographed by Tom Howard by the New York Daily News and would become one of the most famous photos of the roaring ’20s, emblematic of the increased sensationalization of crime during the era.

Ten years after Judd Gray followed Ruth Snyder to the electric chair in real life, our fictional anti-hero Walter Neff is riding the elevator up to the 12th floor of the Pacific Building for a late night visit to his employer, Pacific All Risk Insurance Company, which “knows more tricks than a carful of monkeys.” Bleeding from the shoulder, Neff knows he has some explaining to do—though he doesn’t like to call it a confession—as he prepares to illuminate his boss on “that Dietrichson claim.”

Office memorandum. Walter Neff to Barton Keyes, claims manager. Los Angeles, July 16, 1938…

What’d He Wear?

Legendary costume designer Edith Head continued her collaboration with Barbara Stanwyck in Double Indemnity, dressing the seductive femme fatale in a manner both appropriately suburban and just suggestive enough that no man—or audience member—could resist her devious charms. (Read more about Missy’s wardrobe in this fantastic analysis from Girls Do Film!)

In contrast to Mrs. Dietrichson who never repeats an outfit across the two months depicted on screen, Walter Neff cycles through four different outfits: his everyday herringbone striped flannel suit, a heavy herringbone tweed sports coat, a navy three-piece suit worn when disguising himself as the doomed Mr. Dietrichson, and the light tweedy flannel two-piece suit that gets ruined by a bullet to the left shoulder. While all of these pieces are worthy of discussion, let’s start with the latter.

Neff’s light-colored napped woolen flannel suit has a ventless three-button jacket styled with sporty details like a patch breast pocket and patch hip pockets. The shoulders are wide and padded with heavily roped sleeveheads, and each sleeve ends with three-button kissing cuffs. The black-and-white cinematography hides the color, though some contemporary promotional artwork shows MacMurray wearing what appears to be this suit colorized to a light brown, though light gray would also be a reasonable contender given his frequently wearing it to the office.

Hard at work.

Hard at work.

The suit’s matching trousers have an appropriately long rise for the era, rising to MacMurray’s natural waist where he wears a medium-colored leather belt—likely tan or light brown but possibly also gray—that closes with a curved metal single-prong buckle. The double forward-pleated trousers have side pockets and turn-ups (cuffs) that break high over his shoes.

Neff changes back into his comfortable flannel suit after an evening of murder and deception.

Neff changes back into his comfortable flannel suit after an evening of murder and deception.

In addition to the framing scenes of a wounded Neff recording his confession (sorry, Walter, but it is) in his office, this suit makes two earlier appearances in Double Indemnity. The first is exactly a month before on the afternoon of June 15, 1938, the day that he and Phyllis would kill her husband. Neff is loitering in his shared office—his hat on, true noir protagonist that he is—when Barton Keyes bursts in, simultaneously congratulating Neff on his second consecutive office sales record and offering him a $50 cut in salary to be his claims assistant. The phone rings, not that Keyes lets it interrupt his flow, handing the headset to Neff after making his pitch: “There’s a dame on your phone!” Of course, it’s Phyllis, sharing the update that the murder will occur that evening, but for Keyes’ benefit, Neff claims it to be a date named Margie (“Margie! I bet she drinks from the bottle,” Keyes memorably exclaims.)

For this day in the office, Neff wears a solid off-white shirt with a large semi-spread collar, plain front, and button cuffs. Neff’s tie is patterned in a balanced “downhill” block stripe of three repeating colors, though each dark shade is too low of a contrast for easy differentiation in the black-and-white movie, so it could be mistaken for a solid-colored tie.

Neff makes plans for the evening with "Margie", who tells him to wear a navy blue suit to match Mr. Dietrichson's traveling outfit.

Neff makes plans for the evening with “Margie”, who tells him to wear a navy blue suit to match Mr. Dietrichson’s traveling outfit. Note the leather band of Neff’s watch on his left wrist under the shirt’s barrel cuff.

Later that night, Neff changes out of the navy suit he wore to pose as Dietrichson on the train and back into this tweedy flannel clobber, sans tie, for a late-night meal at his favorite local drugstore. This shirt appears to be more of a pure white than the shirt he wore to the office, likely the same shirt he wore with the navy suit in the preceding scenes.

"I couldn't hear my own footsteps. It was the walk of a dead man."

“I couldn’t hear my own footsteps. It was the walk of a dead man.”

A few weeks later, Lola Dietrichson (Jean Heather), has started making waves after sharing with Neff that she witnessed her stepmother trying on her black veil two days before the suspicious death of her father. To keep the young woman distracted, Neff begins escorting Lola on dates around the city including a Sunday drive to the beach, where he wears this suit for a brief vignette in his ’38 Dodge coupe.

Neff wears another widely striped tie, though the two colors of this horizontally ribbed tie are light and dark for a much clearer visual contrast.

"The next day was Sunday and we went for a ride down to the beach. She had loosened up a bit, she was even laughing. I had to make sure that she wouldn't tell that stuff about Phyllis to anybody else. It was dynamite, whether it was true or not."

“The next day was Sunday and we went for a ride down to the beach. She had loosened up a bit, she was even laughing. I had to make sure that she wouldn’t tell that stuff about Phyllis to anybody else. It was dynamite, whether it was true or not.”

Which brings us to… late afternoon on Friday, July 15, 1938. Neff is leaving the office and runs into Keyes in the lobby, where the excitable claims manager shares that he’s all but solved the Dietrichson case, identifying Phyllis’ co-conspirator… as Nino Zachetti (Byron Barr), a hotheaded former medical student who had been dating Lola until the seductive Phyllis realized what an asset his affection could be to her nefarious ends.

DOUBLE INDEMNITY

Neff wears a light-colored shirt—possibly light gray, taupe, or blue—with a spread collar, plain front, breast pocket, and button cuffs. He again wears a dark, low-contrast striped tie with two colors of very wide repeating block stripes.

Neff plots his next step, having just learned that not only is he not under suspicion but that Keyes had inadvertently provided him with the perfect scapegoat for his crimes.

Neff plots his next step, having just learned that not only is he not under suspicion but that Keyes had inadvertently provided him with the perfect scapegoat for his crimes.

“Hang on to your hat, Walter!” exclaims Keyes, no doubt aware of his colleague’s penchant for keeping his lid on inside, even at the office. “That Dietrichson case just busted wide open!”

Keyes doesn’t need to ask twice for Neff to hang onto his hat as the insurance salesman makes a habit of almost always wearing his hat, even when hanging around his office, echoing one of Raymond Chandler’s numerous complaints about Billy Wilder: “I can’t work with a man who wears a hat in the office. I feel he is about to leave momentarily.”

Neff appears to wear the same hat throughout Double Indemnity, a dark felt fedora with a high and sharply pinched crown. The band is a dark ribbed grosgrain that matches the trim along the edges of the hat brim and is detailed with a large bow on the left side.

As the blood accumulates over his left shoulder, Neff begs Keyes for four more hours to allow him to get to the border and escape into Mexico.

As the blood accumulates over his left shoulder, Neff begs Keyes for four more hours to allow him to get to the border and escape into Mexico.

Neff attempts to use his Friday evening to tie up loose ends but finds himself to be someone’s loose end himself when Phyllis puts a .38 into his left shoulder. She may not be able to fire that second shot, but he doesn’t hesitate, dropping her with two and pocketing the revolver in his suit jacket.

Whether it’s a futile attempt to conceal his bloody bullet wound or to warm himself against the chill of his rapidly approaching death, Neff—”looking kinda all in at that”—has caped himself with a heavy wool raglan coat as he returns to the Pacific Building, depositing the coat by the door as he slumps into his chair to dictate his confession. The three-button coat has notch lapels, a narrow single-button tab on each cuff, and a single vent.

Neff wraps himself in a raglan for his fateful return to the Pacific All Risk Insurance Company, a decision that seals his fate.

Neff wraps himself in a raglan for his fateful return to the Pacific All Risk Insurance Company, a decision that seals his fate.

Neff wears dark leather cap-toe oxford shoes. The shade of leather is dark enough to suggest black, through a rich brown or burgundy leather could be very complementary with Neff’s rugged napped suit, sport jacket, and trouser fabrics.

"All washed up," the doomed Walter Neff realizes that his escape will be more difficult than he anticipated as "somebody moved the elevator a couple of miles away."

“All washed up,” the doomed Walter Neff realizes that his escape will be more difficult than he anticipated as “somebody moved the elevator a couple of miles away.”

An interesting detail of Neff’s wardrobe throughout Double Indemnity is the large wedding ring on the third finger of Fred MacMurray’s left hand, undoubtedly the actor’s own ring from his then-marriage to Lillian Lamont as Walter Neff was an obvious bachelor with no suggestion or a current or past wife.

What to Imbibe

“Come on, I’ll buy you a martini, Walter,” offers a celebratory Keyes on what would be the last day of Phyllis’ and Walter’s lives. Walter declines, but Keyes is insistent: “with two olives!”

Though Walter Neff rejects Keyes’ suggestion of martinis, it’s not because our antihero has anything against drinking. Far from it, in fact, as he tends to spend any idle moment drinking when he isn’t smoking (or murdering.) He muses about rum, beer, and pink wine, though it’s bourbon that stars as Neff’s drink of choice when it’s the only spirit he has in the apartment for Phyllis’ evening visit.

The Gun

Phyllis prepares for Neff’s arrival by placing a nickel-plated revolver under the cushion of her usual lounge chair in her living room. The small-framed revolver with its ivory grips has been identified by IMFDB as a Smith & Wesson .32 Hand Ejector, Third Model, a small but reliable six-shooter built on what would be known as Smith & Wesson’s I-frame.

Phyllis prepares for what would be Walter Neff's last visit to the Dietrichson residence.

Phyllis prepares for what would be Walter Neff’s last visit to the Dietrichson residence.

After several iterations of the Smith & Wesson .32 Hand Ejector, the Massachusetts-based manufacturer introduced the “Third Model” in 1917 and would go on to produce more than a quarter of a million before ceasing production in 1942 when the majority of American weapons manufacturing refocused on weapons for the war effort.

This early generation of the Smith & Wesson .32 Hand Ejector, Third Model, was offered in barrel lengths of 3.25″, 4″, and 6″, though the short 3.25″ barrel was most common. The revolver carried six rounds of .32 S&W Long ammunition, an accurate but relatively anemic cartridge that could explain how Neff would be able to survive for a few hours with a round in his chest until, left untreated, he would bleed out.

"Why didn't you shoot again, baby? Don't tell me it's because you've been in love with me all this time."

“Why didn’t you shoot again, baby? Don’t tell me it’s because you’ve been in love with me all this time.”

Smith & Wesson would revive production of this .32-caliber revolver after the war with an I-framed revolver that would be known as the Smith & Wesson Model 30. In 1960, this weapon was reconfigured on the slightly larger J-frame and re-designated the Smith & Wesson Model 30-1, which would be produced until 1976. By then, the .32 S&W Long round was 80 years old, having been introduced by Smith & Wesson in 1896 when it was standardized by then-New York City Police Commissioner Theodore Roosevelt as the authorized cartridge for the NYPD’s Smith & Wesson and Colt New Police revolvers.

I own a blued Smith & Wesson .32 Hand Ejector, Third Model, manufactured in 1932 and with a 3.25″ barrel. The .32 S&W Long round is easy to fire and, even in double-action, there is very little recoil and the accurate round hits right on target with every shot.

Studio portrait of Fred MacMurray and Barbara Stanwyck—with her prop Smith & Wesson .32—in Double Indemnity (1944)

Studio portrait of Fred MacMurray and Barbara Stanwyck—with her prop Smith & Wesson .32—in Double Indemnity (1944)

How to Get the Look

Unlike Clark Gable’s well-traveled tweeds in It Happened One Night, Walter Neff keeps his clobber looking pressed and perfect for sales calls to potential clients… and fateful encounters with platinum blonde femmes fatale with a penchant for anklets.

  • Light napped woolen flannel sport suit:
    • Single-breasted 3-button jacket with notch lapels, patch breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 3-button “kissing” cuffs, and ventless back
    • Double forward-pleated high-rise trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Off-white cotton shirt with spread collar, plain front, breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Dark block-striped tie
  • Medium-colored leather belt with curved metal single-prong buckle
  • Dark leather cap-toe oxford shoes
  • Dark socks
  • Dark wool raglan coat with single-breasted three-button front, notch lapels, single-button tab cuffs, and single vent
  • Dark felt fedora with dark ribbed grosgrain ribbon and edges
  • Wristwatch on leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and James M. Cain’s original novella!

The Quote

I’m all through thinking, baby.

Footnote

When Neff is dictating his confession for Keyes, he shares that the date is July 16, 1938, which would have been Barbara Stanwyck’s 31st birthday. The frequent and consistent use of dates throughout Double Indemnity got me interested in constructing a timeline, for anyone who may be interested:

  • Tuesday in late May 1938 (likely May 24): Walter Neff meets Phyllis Dietrichson when he stops by the Dietrichson home for a routine auto insurance renewal
  • Thursday in late May 1938 (likely May 26): Walter returns to see Phyllis in the afternoon, per her call, and they hatch a plan that evening to murder her husband
  • “a couple of nights later”: Walter pitches an accident policy to Dietrichson with Phyllis and Lola at witnesses
  • around June 8, 1938: Walter and Phyllis meet “accidentally on purpose” at Jerry’s Market
  • Wednesday, June 15, 1938: Keyes pitches the claims assistant position to Walter; Walter and Phyllis murder Mr. Dietrichson and place his body on the train tracks
  • Friday, June 17, 1938: After Phyllis’ confrontation with Norton, Keyes starts “digging into” the Dietrichson murder
  • Saturday, July 9, 1938: Having moved out of the Dietrichson home, Lola goes to Walter’s office and he escorts her to dinner that night; also, Nino’s first recorded visit to Phyllis’ home
  • Sunday, July 10, 1938: Walter takes Lola out for a Sunday drive to the beach…and Nino returns to Phyllis’ home (again, off screen)
  • Monday, July 11, 1938: Walter and Keyes meet with Mr. Jackson, the proud son of Medford, Oregon, and Walter meets with a sunglasses-wearing Phyllis at Jerry’s Market
  • Thursday, July 14, 1938: After “three or four” dates that week, Walter and Lola go into the hills above the Hollywood Bowl
  • Friday, July 15, 1938: Walter and Phyllis’ shadowy final meeting leaves her dead and him mortally wounded
  • Saturday, July 16, 1938: Walter leaves a confession on his dictaphone for Keyes, who arrives at the office in time to find his wounded colleague attempting to make a futile escape
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